Removal of nudge bars

[mjf]

I have a MkIV with nudge bars mounted on the energy absorbing mounts.

Can anyone tell me how to remove the nudge bars and the energy absorbing mounts.

I have undone the obvious bolts securing the energy absorbers, but nothing is moving.

[westcott]

Nudge bars are fixed to the energy absorber by 2 studs and 2 cap nuts. The nuts are visible if you look behind the overriders.

Loose both nut and bolt on each side but don't remove completely

Remove the lower nut and bolt on both side.

Remove the upper nut and bolt on each side, 4 hands are nice to have.

Remove the nudge bar with overriders from the absorbers.

Beside the car you may remove the overriders from the nudge bar, they are tilted over the nudge bar bracket.

To remove the absorbers you may need to loose or remove the inner fender and lower fiber glas cover below the radiator if you can't have access to the threaded rod and nut fixing the damper in the front frame tube..
Sometimes you will the cut outs at the covers giving access to the nut, sometimes the cut outs are out of position and the nut is hidden. 

Remove the air splitter from the radiator opening, one self tapping screw inside the left and right edge of the splitter, screwed to the body (i need always 1- 2 beers not to drive me gracy because of the position and accessibility).

With the air splitter removed you need to remove the nuts mounted from the inside of the radiator shields left and right.

Remove the radiator shields left and right, take care of the horn and compressor attached to the left one.

Now remove the two nuts from the bolt on each side and remove the bolt to the outside of the car.

Notice the order of all nuts, washers and lock rings.

Now you need to grip the front end of the damper (maybe with some bracket or lever screwed to the front plate) and turn it left /right during you pull it out to the front.

That needs some force because the damper is taped to avoid rattle inside the tube and it will sit very tight after the years. Maybe some lubrication sprayed in / on will help.

That's it, did it 3 times.

Last time, 3 weeks before, was to reposition the damper more backward for a better look. Now it is 40mm more backward, looking doesn't it?

Now my nudge bar front is closer to the body and the telescopic function is blocked by drilling the damper and insertion of a M12 mm threaded stainless steel rod.

[westcott]

The middle picture shows how the absorber looks normally but without the new cross drilled rear attachment hole for the 40mm rearward position.

Also the blocking rod is normally not existing.

In that area the damper is empty no poly gel packing or funktion.

To block the damping function I drilled a hole into the poly gel chamber, cut M12 thread into and  inserted a threaded rod.

 

[westcott]

Lh the threaded rod cross through the frame and damper is covered by the inner fender, you can just barely see the lower perimeter of the nut.
Rh it is visible and accessible.

The order of parts from outside to inside:

Outside the frame tube, in inner fender
-self locking poly nut, sometimes behind inner fender
-locking ring
-washer
between frame tube and radiator shroud / shield
-washer
-locking ring
-nut
- space between nuts giving the correct orientation of the radiator shroud (measure and note for reassembly)
-nut
-locking ring
-washer
- radiator shroud lh or rh
inside the nose:
-big body washer
-locking ring
-nut
-washer
-air splitter stay
-washer
-locking ring
-nut
 

[mjf]

Westcott

Thanks for your very detailed reply, it is appreciated. The nudge bars, of course, were no problem it is the removal of the damper unit that is the problem as I have only used minimal force so far. Now I understand that I have in fact removed all the locating bolts I will up the force a bit as they are obviously stuck in the taper.

Your car looks much better for having the nudge bars closer to the bodywork.

[westcott]

Don‘t forget to apply some detergent between damper and the Plastik piping in the body. That will help to avoid bended body openings.
Too much friction between piping and damper can cause body deformation during disassembly and assembly.