Author Topic: Autokraft Mk IV (Cobra) 302 to 427 downgrade  (Read 657 times)

AC Ventura

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Autokraft Mk IV (Cobra) 302 to 427 downgrade
« on: December 19, 2018, 21:58:33 »
Autokraft Mk IV (Cobra) 302 to 427 downgrade 😜

 A year is a long time in politics......also it’s a long time in stupid, crazy, pointless, dinosaur engineering car projects. The first pic is 26 Dec 2017, the last day the original 302, 5L EFI engine was running and the other two, today, 19 Dec 2018. A few more connections before the monster 427, 532 bhp 7L will burst into life. I’m very pleased with my work to date and that I’ve tried to  respect the Mk IV ‘s identity. Wasn’t easy. Expect an undetectable change in the weather, around February 2019.

mjf

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Re: Autokraft Mk IV (Cobra) 302 to 427 downgrade
« Reply #1 on: December 19, 2018, 22:31:49 »
Congratulations on getting this far with what looks like a very clean installation.

I am sure that the first drive will be a much anticipated event and I hope that the weather is good on the day when you are ready to fire it.

AC Ventura

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Re: Autokraft Mk IV (Cobra) 302 to 427 downgrade
« Reply #2 on: December 19, 2018, 23:24:15 »
Tried very hard to keep the engine bay clean, to give a chance to the air to escape,

westcott

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Re: Autokraft Mk IV (Cobra) 302 to 427 downgrade
« Reply #3 on: December 20, 2018, 12:22:46 »
That looks clean and nice, as it should look with that engine, like it.

The FE brass expansion or surge tanks I used on my Clevelands and on the FE allways received an additional air evacuation tube soldered to it. I put them to a more top located position in the upper half of the tank to evacuate air from the highest radiator point to the expansion tank in order to avaoid air traps in the radiator upper edge opposite the inlet.

The small tube was taken off from some old brass tanks together with some flat material to increase material strength locally arround the tube. 

The FE expansion tank is filled below the horizontal seperator wall inside the tank with cold engine, not higher, don't overfill it because the brass version will expand, deform on the top halve and the soldering around will open. 

The brass units will work well as long as they are not overfilled or modified different times, the available stainless steel tanks are the better but way too expensive solution and will cope with coolant pressure better then the brass units. 
« Last Edit: December 20, 2018, 12:24:35 by westcott »
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler!

wenzeh

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Re: Autokraft Mk IV (Cobra) 302 to 427 downgrade
« Reply #4 on: December 20, 2018, 15:03:39 »
Very nice looking engine bay, clean and functional!  How you will get the connection from accelerator to carburettor?  A rod construction or cable?
Best Christmas present you got as I can tell!

AC Ventura

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Re: Autokraft Mk IV (Cobra) 302 to 427 downgrade
« Reply #5 on: December 20, 2018, 21:38:42 »
You can see on the left in the picture the black accelerator cable. I know a lot of guys feel a need to copy exactly everything Shelby did in the ‘60’s, but I think if he had cable, that’s what he would have used. Simpler lighter, cheaper. For me it’s about the spirit, not to kid anybody it’s a car from 1965.

wenzeh

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Re: Autokraft Mk IV (Cobra) 302 to 427 downgrade
« Reply #6 on: December 21, 2018, 14:27:53 »
Ohhh I see... used to look on left site  ;D!  I had problem with the wire link lasting max. 500km and at the end did build a rod link.  From feedback from others they had same problem.  Maybe on left hand drive the wire situation is worse. don't know.

westcott

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Re: Autokraft Mk IV (Cobra) 302 to 427 downgrade
« Reply #7 on: December 21, 2018, 21:45:35 »
Throttle cable is working from the beginning. As always you need to install a good working throttle pedal stop, with it the cable will work flawless.
« Last Edit: December 21, 2018, 21:48:13 by westcott »
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler!

AC Ventura

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Re: Autokraft Mk IV (Cobra) 302 to 427 downgrade
« Reply #8 on: December 22, 2018, 20:28:13 »
Off course you must have a pedal stop on the accelerator. Same apllies if you use a HTOB for a clutch release, instead of a conventional fork and slave. I feel sure that most of the people who experience burst seals with HTOB’s don’t understand about setting up a clutch pedal stop. Me I’m using a conventional std Galaxie fork and slave. However it needs to be 1:1 master/slave and is consequently very heavy. If I can’t get used to it I will have to change the clutch to twin disc which is lighter, effort wise. But everything is such a mission on this car, even one that IMO is optimised!
« Last Edit: December 22, 2018, 22:35:11 by AC Ventura »