Author Topic: Engine Heat CF64  (Read 16614 times)

nikbj68

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« Reply #15 on: July 30, 2007, 17:58:59 »
quote:
Originally posted by Englishman
   
Welcome back Emmanual....
   

   
   Of course, we used to call him "EmAutobox" before the operation!!![:o)][:o)][:o)]

Englishman

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« Reply #16 on: July 31, 2007, 02:12:05 »
An interesting name and I note that I screwed up the spelling of his real name, oops !!
   
   Peter

Emmanueld

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« Reply #17 on: August 01, 2007, 18:53:18 »
I am now called Manybox!!!!!!!!!! [:D][:D][:D][:D][:D]
   
   Emmanuel

Michael Trotter

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« Reply #18 on: January 08, 2008, 16:03:06 »

   Dave
   I have only just found this forum so a late reply to your posting 24 July last year. I was concerned by the underbonnet temperature and didn't like being hit by the heat when I opened the bonnet on CF6. I fitted an 8" Kenlowe fan each side mounted in an aluminium plate attached to the inner angle supporting the splash panel behind the front wheel and angled across to the vertical front face of the footwell box. On the passenger side I had to move the wiper motor ceveral inches outboard. Because the splash panel angle is not vertical in side elevation the fan mounting plate is not vertical and the fan is aimed down at the grille in the outer wing panel. With a hot engine idling the fans push encouraging blasts of hot air out of the grilles and do reduce the underbonnet air temperature by about 10 deg F main road steady 70 mph with ambient air 80 deg F. At idling they slightly reduce the percentage of the radiator fan cycle during which this runs.However on the road I was disappointed that they made no apparent difference to the water temperature. However water temperature is only a worry with CF6 on a hot day stationary or at slow speeds so I like to have the additional fans on the basis that 'every little helps' and they do help control temerature while you are hoping the traffic will get moving and they certainly take the sting out of underbonnet temperature.
   
   Let me know if you would like more info and you are welcome to come and look at the installatio - I live in Hampshire.
   
   Michael

Emmanueld

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« Reply #19 on: January 09, 2008, 01:41:21 »
Michael, I understand your car is fitted with headers, these generate quite a bit of heat my advice is ceramic coating and/or wrapping with racing heat tape. While headers are great for increasing performance compared to the mini cast iron manifolds these cars came with, they increase underhood heat substantially. My Frua can sit all day in the hot Los Angeles sun all day and does not overheat a bit. Water temp is steady at 80 degrees, since I installed the small spoiler up front, water temperature goes down to about 70 on the freeway, just make sure your radiator is clean and unclogged.
   
   Emmanuel

cliffordl

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« Reply #20 on: January 09, 2008, 13:42:54 »
On the subject of aluminium radiators - where did you get yours from Emmanuel?
   I've had various firms look and little success in finding someone to fabricate one for me.
   
   Cliff

Emmanueld

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« Reply #21 on: January 09, 2008, 17:16:03 »
Hi Cliff,
   
   Although I have not replaced my radiator, my friend Jeffrey did and installed an aluminum radiator with a modern fan. My understanding is that the whole assembly is the same as the Cobra 427. Visually it is, with my Kirkham next to the Frua, both radiator assemblies looked the same with the same attachment points.
   
   I would call Hawkcars and purchase one of their units with a new fan assembly (The fan bolts on to the radiator. Maybe you can ask them for the possibility to return it if it does not fit. I am 99% sure it will.
   
   http://www.hawkcars.co.uk/hawk427/index.html
   
   Regards,
   
   Emmanuel

Emmanueld

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« Reply #22 on: January 15, 2008, 03:04:23 »
quote:
Originally posted by Englishman
   
Gents,
   I had thought of making a second Bonnet(hood) with louvres to get the hot air out of the engine bay, I have to replace the existing bonnet(hood) in any event. Now the coach builder, also an avid reader of this forum, recalls Andy Shepherd's story of the dog bowl on top of the air filter and has come up with the following suggestion.
   
   When he makes the new skin he can increase the hieght of the hump such that by the time it get to the windshield it will be half an inch higher than the original and he can cut the existing four apertures into a single opening to allow even more air out.
   
   At the same time he can fabricate a couple of air scoops behind the radiator ( between the rad and engine ) to force more air into the engine compartment. In theory this sounds very plausible to me, any input on this would be welcomed.
   
   Peter
   

   
   Peter,
   
   What you described above is the opening at the back of the hood of the Aston V8 Vantage. I use to have a full specs V8 Vantage Volante and the problem with the huge opening at the back of the hood is that it create a vortex inside the hood and the engine looses power (I drove the car without air box and it became very sluggish, probably lost 60hp or more) . Aston created a very large air filter above the 4 downdraft Webers with huge runners going down to the front of the car. On the UK POW version they installed a large spoiler and blocked off the front grill which improved both engine cooling and breathing. The point is, you want to increase the air coming from under the car, do it in small steps until you see improvements, also make sure that the aluminum cowling under the radiator is still there, mine was missing and we made a new one and I think it made a big improvement as well!
   
   
   See the 2 big holes at the front of the inner fenders, this is where the huge air box connect to. Unfortunately, I could not find a picture with the airbox on.
   
   Emmanuel [:)]

Englishman

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« Reply #23 on: January 16, 2008, 02:08:04 »
Hi Emmanuel,
   
   Have sent you an e-mail as I was having aproblem with this Forum
   
   Peter

david langford

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« Reply #24 on: January 27, 2008, 20:35:38 »
Hi Michael,
   Shame I didn't get your message earlier as I went to the I.O.W. in September so could have mad a detour.
   You say you are disappointed with the temp on the road, so do you think it is worth doing or is the money spent not worth the gain?
   Mine is having the sills done in 3-4 weeks I am also hoping to have a front spoiler made as Emmanueld has (may go a bit bigger as I've heard size is important) so the temp will have a lower starting point when I do hit traffic.
   I did find on the I.O.W. trip that the oil level had gone form the full mark on leaving to about a quarter above the low on returning with the temp at around half on the way there and rising to three quarters on the way back (at which point my courage failed me and I pulled over for an hour).  As it was my first long run in the car (I live in Suffolk) I was wondering if the drop in oil level was the cause or was it just an old car quirk?
   many thanks for the info Dave

Emmanueld

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« Reply #25 on: February 03, 2008, 15:22:13 »
David, you might want to run a compression test, also make sure you have no leak to the remote oil filter and oil cooler if installed! how's the blow by? when the engine is running at idle and you pull the oil filler cap or the pcv valve, do you feel any air pressure? too much blow by means it's time for a rebuild! Emmanuel

Englishman

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« Reply #26 on: February 04, 2008, 01:15:27 »
Peter,
   
   What you described above is the opening at the back of the hood of the Aston V8 Vantage. I use to have a full specs V8 Vantage Volante and the problem with the huge opening at the back of the hood is that it create a vortex inside the hood and the engine looses power (I drove the car without air box and it became very sluggish, probably lost 60hp or more) . Aston created a very large air filter above the 4 downdraft Webers with huge runners going down to the front of the car. On the UK POW version they installed a large spoiler and blocked off the front grill which improved both engine cooling and breathing. The point is, you want to increase the air coming from under the car, do it in small steps until you see improvements, also make sure that the aluminum cowling under the radiator is still there, mine was missing and we made a new one and I think it made a big improvement as well!
   
   
   See the 2 big holes at the front of the inner fenders, this is where the huge air box connect to. Unfortunately, I could not find a picture with the airbox on.
   
   Emmanuel [:)]
   [/quote]
   
   
   Hi Emmanuel,
   
   We have made the new bonnet, which can be seen in Classicus' Register, the change in profile is haedly discernable and as far as the aperture is concerned we put in the same number of holes (5) as the original but they are bigger. So there is not a single gaping hole, we believe that by trial and error we will get it right.
   
   Cheers

Emmanueld

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« Reply #27 on: February 05, 2008, 14:47:15 »
Peter, I have looked for the picture of your new hood but could not find it! E