Author Topic: Electronic ignition  (Read 5321 times)

GSouthee

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« on: September 15, 2015, 18:57:13 »
Hi has any fitted the 'Powerspark' electronic ignition module that replaces the points. I am thinking of doing so, but just wondered if any improvement apart from the obvious re no points burning out.
   
   Cheers  Gary
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Robin A Woolmer

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« Reply #1 on: September 15, 2015, 21:07:15 »
There is I understand an Aceca fitted with 123 ingnition in the USA
   
   Robin

GSouthee

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« Reply #2 on: September 16, 2015, 19:26:12 »
Cheers Robin, Well I might as well try it, nothing lost other than a few quid and poss a gain in spark, fuel cons etc and no points worry.
   
   Will post how easy and what benefits are gained.
   
   G
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GSouthee

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« Reply #3 on: September 21, 2015, 19:26:17 »
Hi all,
   
   Well ordered the electronic ignition, will let you know how it fits etc etc as I go along.
   
   Cheers  G
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PPJ834

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« Reply #4 on: September 21, 2015, 20:22:38 »
Hi. I've often thought about electronic ignition for my 2 litre saloon, but finding a positive earth system wasn't easy. I'm interested to see how you get on.

GSouthee

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« Reply #5 on: September 22, 2015, 12:13:06 »
Hi ya,  I ve used these before on my Rover V8's and with great success and improvement.  Powerspark do the kit for the lucas DX6a Dizzy as used on the AC and Bristol engines. only £45.
   
   Hope to put in on Sat.
   
   G
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SBB

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« Reply #6 on: September 24, 2015, 19:25:35 »
Alastair Caldwell put me on to the Boyer Bransden system. It keeps the points but they no longer take heavy current. They are just a switching system but still should be set at the right gap. It is available in positive or negative earth versions. It can be fitted in minutes. In effect it is an amplifier. Alastair has this on all his cars and I guess he should know. I have fitted it to my Ace, Aceca, Greyhound and Morris 1000. It costs about £30.
   On positive Earth the capacitor should be disconnected. It comes with full and very easy instructions.

GSouthee

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« Reply #7 on: September 24, 2015, 21:08:37 »
Hi SSB
   
   Mine arrived today, will post a pic, very simple, magnetic switch with a 6 point activator that slips over the centre cam, 2 wires one to coil one to live feed, disconnect condenser, no points just replace the plate with the mag switch to where the old points fitted and bingo, or so it seems. Well that's how it fitted in my V8 powered rod, so should be the same. As I said will put pics on here as I do conversion.
   
   Cheers   anyway
   
   G
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REV

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« Reply #8 on: October 03, 2015, 00:42:58 »
Hi Gary,
   
   Any update on how you've got on? I'm interested in doing the same subject to finding the right system.
   
   Nick

GSouthee

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« Reply #9 on: October 03, 2015, 10:07:09 »
HI
   
   Yes, Its going on today, had a delay as had to take windscreen out as had a couple of leaks, very worrying lifting that screen out over the bonnet but all ok now, so will get on with the dizzy and do an oil change as well.
   
   Try and get pics etc on tomorrow.
   
   G
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GSouthee

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« Reply #10 on: October 03, 2015, 18:29:55 »
Hi Now converted to electronic ignition. So no more points setting, burning out, bounce etc. Better spark and allegedly better fuel economy and slight increase in power.
   
   Time taken under 1 hr. Tools needed a spanner sized to the coil terminals and a flat blade screwdriver plus a wire crimper.
   
   1st Take note of current wire connections, disconnect battery, remove dizzy cap, disconnect current wiring from coil to dizzy.
   
   2nd Remove rotor put aside you will still need this, remove 3 set screws from base plate and put aside, gently lift the base plate away from dizzy complete with contact in place and the fly lead attached, put this in a nice little box along with 1 of the set screws from the base plate (you may want to keep these in case you want to revert back to points).
   
   3rd Slide on electronic trigger base plate and secure with 2 of the set screws, slide on the blue magnet ring over the cam, push down gently, replace the rotor, slip the 2 wires out of the dizzy via the slot in the cap, replace the cap.
   
   4th Now connect the wires, the white wire to the - terminal on the coil, the black to the live feed you disconnected from the coil earlier (mine also fed the fuel pump),  DO NOT CONNECT THESE TO THE COIL, connect the + terminal of the coil to earth.
   
   5th Reconnect battery, get in car and start her up!!!!!  If you done it right it will start. Simple.
   
   Heres the pics:  https://www.dropbox.com/sh/mrsm3nqb79kv3a4/AACRzZ6XQq9Nu5eR94tCXMdAa?dl=0
   
   Mine did start straight of and a noticeably smooth tickover. I will monitor the fuel consumption and any if noticable power increase. Certainly my colourtune spark tester shows a stronger spark, must be beneficial.
   
   This is a powerspark conversion and cost me £45.
   
   Hope useful Cheers  Gary[:)]
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REV

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« Reply #11 on: October 06, 2015, 20:37:02 »
Thanks for that.
   
   I'll get one ordered and see how I go.
   
   Regards,
   
   Nick

GSouthee

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« Reply #12 on: November 04, 2015, 12:58:45 »
HI guys just an update on performance of Ignition.
   
   Now covered some 700 miles including a very arduous trip to North London in very heavy traffic (nearly 3 hrs to do 70 miles) and all is working well. Appears to be much better at tick-over and low speed pick up. Fuel consumption not sure about yet, but plugs are much cleaner so suggest better burn of fuel.  All good.
   
   Cheers
   
   G
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GSouthee

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« Reply #13 on: March 20, 2016, 14:40:22 »
Just an update on electronic ignition outcome.  Now done over 6 full tanks of fuel and by my calculations getting approx 26-28mpg depending on trip. Exhaust is showing cleaner burn and plugs all good, I did open the gap to 25 thou, I am using NGK B5HS plugs.
   
   Cheers  Gary
Nothing is impossible, but sometimes it takes a different approach. Now anyone got a big hammer?