Author Topic: Ace,Aceca and 2.6 Dust Shields.  (Read 3328 times)

1744

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Ace,Aceca and 2.6 Dust Shields.
« on: October 03, 2014, 02:49:01 »
Several of us in the San Francisco Bay area and Vancouver are in need of replacement front wing dust/mud shields for Ace, Aceca and 2.6s and after much lively discussion we decided to defer to the Forum for advice and assistance in determining the design of same.
   
   We are divided on design. Are the shields divided top to bottom or top to spring shackle only, the lower portion remaining one piece, are any patterns available and what rubber/neoprene sheeting is suggested?

jrlucke

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Ace,Aceca and 2.6 Dust Shields.
« Reply #1 on: October 03, 2014, 03:28:52 »
Which 2.6? I sold RS5024 in Northern CA in the '70's and it's not been heard of since the acquiring broker sold it. Last heard was that maybe it was in Sacramento.
   
   John

Klassik Metall

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Ace,Aceca and 2.6 Dust Shields.
« Reply #2 on: October 03, 2014, 07:57:19 »
If you mean the inner wheel boxes/arches the panels for all Ace and Aceca  variants are made from one piece of 18 gauge aluminium without any splits or joints. There is a separate closing panel that seals off the side of the radiator area further forward in the nose. The cobra version of these panels is I believe different with a spit as you describe. The Ace type has a triangular cutout with a rounded top that clears both the spring and the lower wishbone. This cutout is folded back on its self around the edge to form a safe edge.
   
   Early Aces and Acecas did not have a rubber curtain seal in the triangular aperture, as far as I'm aware these seem to have appeared on cars built around 1959. The rubber seal is 1/16'' thick sandwiched by three thin ali strips pop riveted to wheel side of the wheel box.
   
   There is also a 5/8'' square section sponge seal that is partially split and sits over the raw edge of the wheel box against the outer body.
   
   Some of the very early Aces had a rounded rather than sharp fold to the rear but I don't know the change over date.
   
   I do have some patterns for these panels but they are only a rough guide due to the variations of the hand made outer body panels. Normally I first make pattern in thin cardboard to ensure a good fit to the outer body.
   
   I hope this helps.
   Regards Luke.

Klassik Metall

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Ace,Aceca and 2.6 Dust Shields.
« Reply #3 on: October 03, 2014, 08:10:17 »
I just found this photo in an old post that hopefully will make things clearer.

AC Ace Bristol

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Ace,Aceca and 2.6 Dust Shields.
« Reply #4 on: October 03, 2014, 10:19:27 »
Quote
Originally posted by 1744
   
Several of us in the San Francisco Bay area and Vancouver are in need of replacement front wing dust/mud shields for Ace, Aceca and 2.6s and after much lively discussion we decided to defer to the Forum for advice and assistance in determining the design of same.
   
   We are divided on design. Are the shields divided top to bottom or top to spring shackle only, the lower portion remaining one piece, are any patterns available and what rubber/neoprene sheeting is suggested?
   
   1744
   
   Not sure if I'm interpretting you correctly, But if you are after Inner Wing Stone Guards for the Ace and Aceca, then they are available from:-
   
   Classic Autos.
   10, High Street.
   Kings Langley.
   Hertfordshire.
   WD4 8HB
   England.
   
   Tel/Fax 0044 (0) 1923 262 994
   Aubrey Finsburgh

   
   Keith..[;)]

1744

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Ace,Aceca and 2.6 Dust Shields.
« Reply #5 on: October 03, 2014, 17:35:58 »
Luke and Keith
   
   Thanks but it is the rubber sheet material covering the opening through which the road spring protrudes to the road wheel hub, brake drum (disc) etc, above where the A arm connects to the chassis.
   
    Luke's photo shows that opening immediately above the A arm and the sawhorse and correctly refers to it in his para 2. I do think however, that Aces, Acecas and 2.6s produced both before and after 1959 also had these shields/curtains fitted.
   
   I wish I could post a photo but I am not capable.
   
   Jonathan

Klassik Metall

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« Reply #6 on: October 03, 2014, 20:07:52 »
The rubber section has an offset split from the lower edge ending at an oblong cutout for the leaf spring. The rubber has to be split at the bottom otherwise you cannot remove the wheel box without dismantling the suspension.
   
   Regarding the earlier cars not having the rubber seal I meant to say 1958 not 59. I can only really speak about the cars still with original inner panels that I've actually worked on. Currently I'm working on BEX 366 which was ex works late 1957 and it has never had these seals fitted. I also have a 1955 Aceca in the workshop and it also never had any seals fitted.
   
   However as I'm sure you are aware these cars were hand made and there seems to have been quite a variation when it comes down to individual details, making it dangerous to generalise about what was changed when. Maybe these seals were even an optional extra?
   
   Regards Luke.

nikbj68

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« Reply #7 on: October 04, 2014, 23:50:25 »
Gents. Here are JP`s dustshields:
   
   
   
   

Klassik Metall

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« Reply #8 on: October 05, 2014, 20:17:52 »
Hi Jonathan,
   
   After seeing your photos I went back through my old patterns and found one from an original 2.6 and guess what the split is at the top exactly as yours! There was as far as I can see a slight difference to the lower edge with a small oblong cutout for the damper, the rear most corner of this cutout has a 1/4'' wide slot that continues upward for further 2''.
   
   I also have another pattern with the split line at the bottom but I've no idea if this was from an original or not. I guess the choice was down to whoever made this part back in 1950/60 whatever in Thames Ditton. Anyway your photos show what looks to be the correct general design.

1744

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Ace,Aceca and 2.6 Dust Shields.
« Reply #9 on: October 05, 2014, 20:35:50 »
Luke,
   
   Thanks for taking time and effort to find your old patterns.
   
   It makes sense that the split should be at the top as that is where it can be secured on 3 sides rather than just 2 if it was divided from the bottom.
   Leaving the bottom undivided prevents unnecessary flapping.
   
   Jonathan

2821

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« Reply #10 on: October 05, 2014, 22:14:35 »
quote:
Originally posted by jrlucke
   
Which 2.6? I sold RS5024 in Northern CA in the '70's and it's not been heard of since the acquiring broker sold it. Last heard was that maybe it was in Sacramento.
   
   John
   

2821

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« Reply #11 on: October 05, 2014, 22:27:02 »
quote:
Originally posted by jrlucke
   
Which 2.6? I sold RS5024 in Northern CA in the '70's and it's not been heard of since the acquiring broker sold it. Last heard was that maybe it was in Sacramento.
   
   John
   
John,  This 2.6 is RSX 5028.  Is RS 5024 the car I saw leaving Pebble Beach in the '70s, just having been sold? The new owner said he was on the way to Sacramento.
   
   Paul Staiger

jrlucke

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« Reply #12 on: October 06, 2014, 05:15:46 »
Paul, that is the car. I was the seller and the buyer was a broker from Modesto who only had the car for a short while.
   
   Interestingly the car had been imported from Switzerland by someone in the Palo Alto area and was abandoned in a garage in downtown Palo Alto where it sat for years before being sold on a mechanic's lien.
   
   After Daniel sold it, it seems to have disappeared.
   
   John

2821

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« Reply #13 on: October 07, 2014, 20:34:45 »
John,
   
   Glad to have some of this mystery cleared up. Very strange about the car sitting in the Palo Alto garage for years.
   
   I saw the car at a gas station as I was heading home from the Concours.  Pulled up to the pump island and facing me was the 2.6 - a bit of a rare sight.  Thought I must be dreaming. Had a look under the hood: it had the alloy head (mine is Stage 1, iron). First I'd seen the Mays head and the first look at the cast iron exhaust header.  The driver mentioned the Switzerland connection. Wish we'd been able to talk longer, but we were each heading home in different directions.  And somehow I didn't get his name!
   
   Paul

Robin A Woolmer

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« Reply #14 on: October 07, 2014, 21:59:15 »
It might be worth considering the use of brush strips which can be supplied in more than meter lengths which have bristle lengths up to 300mm, this would give much greater protection from dirt ingress compared to the rubber sheeting, it also conforms to the shape of the suspension!