Author Topic: 15" wheels  (Read 20811 times)

French Frie

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15" wheels
« Reply #30 on: January 11, 2013, 10:24:05 »
thanks to all for your answers... a bit off topic, as it wouldn't solve my problem, but there are special track rod ends, with a smaller "head", to clear alloy wheels on MGB :
   
   http://www.ukmgparts.com/product.aspx?CID=854b4533-4f37-4290-9441-2a8d6613b58b&SID=66034a8f-9aac-474f-abd0-e82c3acdc12e&PID=0c3dcc37-43e1-4c71-ab89-dc48ec9de2ca
   
   classic rod end:
   
   
   
   the slimer one :
   
   

French Frie

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15" wheels
« Reply #31 on: April 15, 2013, 21:26:57 »
Hi all,
   
   As the sun finally came out, I found the ressource to dismantle the front axle to take out the steering arms ...
   
   They are hold by three bolts , and the calipers are also attached with them... So I removed those bolts, as well as the wheel outer bearing. I noticed that there are spacers on the three bolts; I was thinking that maybe these spacers can be removed  from and  refitted behind, in order to add clearance between the steering arm and the wheel... Can it be done ?
   
   Anyway, I will have the steering arm bent ..' The point is that I can't remove the hub, even if the castelled nut and the outer bearing is removed ( see pic). Did I miss something, or the hub should come (using an extractor if needed) ?
   
   
   
   
   
   I also assume it's a good opportunity to replace the bearings, even though they seem to be in good order ?

French Frie

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« Reply #32 on: April 15, 2013, 22:11:27 »
PS: do not be fooled by the nearly removed rear bolt ... I just thought at first that the whole assembly could be removed this way [:o)] , but that's not my wonder !

dkp_cobra

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« Reply #33 on: April 16, 2013, 07:43:06 »
quote:
Originally posted by French Frie
   
Hi all,
   
   ... The point is that I can't remove the hub, even if the castelled nut and the outer bearing is removed ( see pic). Did I miss something, or the hub should come (using an extractor if needed) ?
   
   

   
   Hi Olivier,
   
   normally, you can remove the front hub by hand after removing the nut and the outer bearing (totally different story at rear hubs). If this is not possible you have to use an extractor.
   
   Peter

nikbj68

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« Reply #34 on: April 16, 2013, 12:00:27 »
The brake caliper mounts onto that bracket, so removing the spacers would alter the position of the caliper relative to the disc, so you could increase the clearance on the arm, but it would throw the brakes out. Arm-bending it is!
   I notice that the track rod has a length of hexagon bar in it to extend the rod out to meet the track rod end, exactly the same as on the Greyhound which uses a Morris Minor rack (L/H drive, fitted upside-down) & Triumph TR4 uprights!

French Frie

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« Reply #35 on: April 16, 2013, 14:17:23 »
thanks for the answers ... but if you refit the spacers between the steering arm and the caliper, you put the caliper at the place it was before, don't you ?
   
   good point regarding the hexa extension, but there's plenty of thread left to be able to set the geo, even when arms will be bent... I assume I'll have to gain about 1 cm at the end of the steering arm to clear the wheel !

nikbj68

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« Reply #36 on: April 16, 2013, 15:41:16 »
Oh yes, of course... I was just thinking of removing them. Will they give enough of a mounting face for the caliper? If not, it would be worth machining larger ones to match the original caliper locating points, as you don`t want it able to flex. [:)]

French Frie

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« Reply #37 on: April 16, 2013, 17:31:54 »
the hub has come easily with the extractor :
   
   
   
   now the axle is naked :
   
   
   
   for the record, the two outer bearings :
   
   
   
   one is NSK (left) , the other is SKF (right), and they both have the LM1949 ref #
   
   
   so , here are the steering arms :
   
   
   
   
   
   you can see they're slightly already bent (one more than the other) ...
   
   now, they're en route to the workshop [;)] !

dkp_cobra

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« Reply #38 on: April 16, 2013, 19:17:20 »
Olivier,
   
   to appease you, my arms are much more bent (and of course are not equal) to fit the 15" wheels. And everthing is standard, the car was delivered with 15" wheels.
   
   Peter

French Frie

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« Reply #39 on: April 16, 2013, 21:00:53 »
Ahahah... Thanks Peter, now I'm peaceful [;)] !
   
   The point is that, when you start to dismantle, you're tempted to clean and repaint everything, as well as replacing all the parts ... BTW, as already asked, do you think it's a good opportunity to replace bearing and rod ends ?

dkp_cobra

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« Reply #40 on: April 17, 2013, 07:41:24 »
Rods ends can be replaced, but I cant't see why the bearings should be replaced. Anyway it is a quite simple task for the front hubs.

French Frie

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« Reply #41 on: April 17, 2013, 22:39:53 »
Yep, but apart the expense, it may be possible nowadays to find bearings that are of a lower quality (chinese production especially), even if new, compared to older ones...
   
   Other question : a friend of mine warned me  about the fact that bending the arms would modifiy what we call "l'épure de Jeantaud" from a french coachbuilder of the 19th century, modifying the geo values when turning... I'm surprised no one has evocated that ...
   Can it be considered as neglectable ?  1 cm for a 15 cm long arm represents about 3,8°, so it doesn't look that much, but...

MkIV Lux

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« Reply #42 on: April 18, 2013, 08:51:51 »
The question is what effect the 3,8° bending has on the length of the steering arm. As you compensate the 1 cm lateral adjustment of the steering arm by adjusting the steering rod accordingly, an effect on the "epure de Jeantaud" arises by the modification of the length of the steering arm, i.e. shortening the radius formed by the steering arm pivoting around the vertical axis of the wheel. A quick empiric test shows that the radius varies by less than 1 mm.

French Frie

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« Reply #43 on: April 18, 2013, 09:14:45 »
Thanks, Constant... So I assume "neglectable" is the appropriate word [;)]!
   
    last wonder : it leaves about 1,5 to 2 cm (circa 0,6/0,8 inch) of thread on each steering rod to adjust the toe-in...I assume it's enough ? if not, can the hexa track rod extension be recutted (i.e. is it threaded on its whole length) ?

MkIV Lux

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« Reply #44 on: April 18, 2013, 09:32:25 »
Olivier ..  on your last pictures I can barely see the end of the antiroll bar fitted to your car. Can you get us a better picture thereof? What's the source thereof?