BE 646

[Gus Meyjes]

Original wind tone horns. They do sound quite different from the ones you can buy now.
   
   Gus

[dkp_cobra]

I could use the new stageless jacks for adjusting the differential.
   
   To simulate the drive shafts I used two PE bolts.
   
   So, I could fix the differential bracket with some weld points.
   
   Now, a professional welder can work on them.

[Gus Meyjes]

You do great work, Peter, Can't wait to see it in real life!
   
   Gus

[dkp_cobra]

What you couldn't see on the last pictures was that the alignment was not perfect. I had to stroke the bolts through the holes. The reason was that the brackets were 1 mm too close to each other.
   
   This morning I woke up with the thought that both the differential case and the mounting brackets will be painted which will make the situation even more worse. So, everything back to the yesterday starting point:
   
   I narrow the brackets by 1 mm. Now the alignment is perfect. You can see in the videos (click the pictures):
   
   
   
   

[dkp_cobra]

The lower differential brackets are welded.
   
   Time to check how the engine and transmission will fit into the car.
   
   I have definitely a problem with the Moris Minior rack and pinion steering.
   
   The old engine mounts must be removed.
   
   Since the footbox was already modified due to the Daimler Dart engine it fits on the right side.
   
   On the left side the clutch needs a little bit more space
   
   and the gear shifter mechanism is a problem.
   
   But I have a lot of room up to the bonnet:
   
   Also the original hand brake lever will not contact the gear lever:
   
   Now, I am tired and go to sleep. It's a hard work when you do it alone [xx(]

[French Frie]

What a fantastic job, Peter ! It's a shame you don't have any friend [] ...

[dkp_cobra]

Originally posted by French Frie
   
What a fantastic job, Peter ! It's a shame you don't have any friend [] ...
   

   Yes, it's a shame but so I can lose time for useless things like the washer wheel box (again) []. The original plates are quite rusty:
   
   The possibilities are:
   

• to leave them as they are
• sand blasting and powder coating
• new zinc coating
• new plates

   
   So far, I always used a laser cutter. You always see the starting point of the laser, there is some kind of edge. Now, I have access to a flow waterjet.
   
   I have to say I am disappointed. I do not have the edge at the starting point but the complete border is rough and the waterjet cuts funnel formed.
   
   You can see the difference here:
   
   The lower washer(30 x 3 mm) was cut by a laser and stands on its small side, the same washer cut by the waterjet (above) must be leaned against something since the borders are not orthogonal to the surface.
   
   Nevertheless, for the wheel box plates it doesn't matter:
   
   These cars weren't build for eternity. The construction of the pedal box is ideal to catch water and dirt (left side: dirt of 50 years).
   
   No surprise that you have cracks there (right side):
   
   I removed the mounting brackets for the previous transmission since I don't need it and it wasn't original:
   
   And I had time for the weekly saturday afternoon madness: putting the engine and transmission into car in order to find the right position. If I modify the footboxes a little bit, I can shift the engine     approximately 5 cm backwards. So, I don't have to remove the original mounting brackets of the engine. Well, I don't know whether they are original. I read anywhere that the chassis number should be stamped into these but I can't find any number.
   
   Anyway, I will have more clearance between engine and steering rack:
   
   Some modifications are necessary here ...
   
   

[dkp_cobra]

I am working on new mounting brackets for the engine:
   
   They should be clamped around the main tubes. A cross brace should prvent the brackets from rotating around the tubes:
   
   I also removed the steering rack. I guess it is a modified Morris Minor:
   
   Since this steering rack is worn out and the car should be converted from RHS to LHS I contacted Ben Yates for his conversion kit. In parallel I am also thinking about a MGB steering rack. The advantage of Ben's kit is that it can still be used behind the front axle. The MGB must be installed in front of the fron axle. Has anybody experiences with a MGB steering rack?

[Robin A Woolmer]

I am looking seriously at a Morgan Rack which has the track rods driven from the centre of the rack which replicates the original track rod locations, this should minimise any adverse effect of Bump Steer, the rack can be modified to fit in the rear of the axle by reversing the drive pinion in the rack!
   If you want LHD then you might consider an IMP rack!
   
   Robin

[dkp_cobra]

Robin,
   
   I read and heard that the original setup had a lot of room for optimisation so I am not quite sure whether it is the best way to replicate the original steering geometry.
   
   What I learned from Rinsey Mills book was that the original steering box was not the best AC could do but they had a lot of these in their shelves and they stopped using these when all were used and used the modified MGB solution from that point. Isn't that correct?
   
   Peter

[Robin A Woolmer]

Peter
   I do not have any information on the MG solution but do as you say understand that AC used up some inexpensive stock of steering boxes, as you know the original Ace Chassis had a rack & pinion as you have, but one issue is the track rods pivot position as that it can effect the steering, if the track rods are longer (almost the half width of the track) it can minimise this!
   So i am planning to fit the Morgan rack which affords long track rods.
   Robin

[dkp_cobra]

Robin,
   
   please, report about your progress and experiences.
   
   Peter

[Robin A Woolmer]

Peter
   It is a little early as i have spent a great deal of time investigating what racks are suitable & then obtaining samples also modifying the Morgan rack which is quite simple to do, when i have my Ace Replica on its wheels i will do a trial fit & make up the track rods etc
   I am no good putting pictures on this site but if you want some pictures of the Morgan Rack i wll send it to you, it is quite long but does fit within the engine compartment, the better one would have been the Imp type which is shorter & very neat, this latter one would probably suit LHD cars though, this issue is the rack direction as it was designed to fit originally in front of the axle! There are several other racks which will do the job such as Lancia Beta but these are excessively long but very nice!
   The main issue is fitting it high enough to ally for the suspension vertical travel for the track rods to clear the main tubes etc!
   When it is done i will take pictures of the installation.
   
   Robin

[lew]

HI Guys,
   What could perhaps be of interest to those considering going the "rack" route with centrally mounted track rods(long ones!) is the following.
   In the '60s a man by the name of Arthur Mallock designed the U2 clubmans cars with a cross over swing axle front suspension.
   
   In an attempt to reduce bump steer he first used the LH Imp rack but later modified Morris Minor one. It is a simple matter om machining a slot in the central portion of the rack housing exposing the rear of the rack. This is the suitably tapped 1/2'unf and the ends of the track rods mount to this. One can easily seal it by modifying a universal concertina rack boot and fitting.
    I know it's easy 'cause I made one for my Mallock race car about 40 years ago and still use it!

[Robin A Woolmer]

Lew
   That's very interesting the Imp rack is an ideal size but goes the wrong way for the Ace, if one can get a LHD one then turn it over it would do the job, but your idea is great & would not cost too much to do.
   How is your Diff?
   
   Robin