John, just seen your query and am interested to hear how you have overcome it. I ham having a problem with my clutch. I replaced the standard B&B clutch plate and carbon thrust with a modern diaphragm clutch and thrust ball bearing. Different movement so I measured clearances and installed an adaptor ring behind the thrust bearing to compensate.Put engine in etc and started up but found I could not engage gear with the engine running. ie clutch was not disengaging. I tried all sort of tricks like reversing the lever between the rod and clutch cross shaft, extending rod length to max., adjusting the outer tie bolt that links the slave cylinder mounting plate to the bell housing. I got to a position where the clutch would disengage but as soon as everything was warm I had the same problem. To change gear I had to stop engine , engage new gear and start engine again! I stripped and removed the engine again, re measured the clearances and worked out I needed a further 3.5 mm spacer. I fitted it and replaced the engine. This time I checked by raising one rear wheel and confirming I could turn it. I then replaced all the bits and started the engine and found I could use the clutch as normal. In my case the operating rod is wound back to minimum length so that I can just rotate it by hand and the lever that engages the tie rod is just aft of vertical ie it moves through the vertical position as it is operated. Sounds good? No, I still have a problem in engaging bottem gear when hot and at the traffic lights! With no synchro. on first this can be a problem solved by engaging second then first but does not work in my case. I resleeved the slave cylinder to a slightly smaller diameter to increase its throw but made no difference. Still pondering but not wanting to remove engine again! Any ideas?
Peter Hoskin