Author Topic: Re-tempering leafsprings  (Read 2550 times)

rsk289

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 154
    • View Profile
Re-tempering leafsprings
« on: August 27, 2020, 17:02:21 »
Does anyone know a good company in the UK that can re-temper sagging leafsprings?  My Cobra is sitting lower than I'd like and I'd like to sort them.  I've used Brost Forge before but I think they ceased trading in June '19.
Thanks all,
Roger

AEX146

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 30
    • View Profile
Re: Re-tempering leafsprings
« Reply #1 on: August 29, 2020, 10:55:39 »
Mike Isles wrote a short article about re-tempering the springs of his Ace in ACtion (June 2020). He had good service from Owen Springs ( www.owensprings.co.uk)

Regards,
Ben Morgan

rsk289

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 154
    • View Profile
Re: Re-tempering leafsprings
« Reply #2 on: August 29, 2020, 12:10:08 »
Thanks - Gerry Hawkridge has put me on to Jones Springs, who I think supply him now Brost has gone.  I'm waiting for some quotes.

James Eastwood

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 158
    • View Profile
Re: Re-tempering leafsprings
« Reply #3 on: October 06, 2020, 13:40:41 »
Sorry a bit late to this discussion;

I used Jones Springs to make two new single leaves for my Ace spring assemblies. These were the leaves that have the 'eyes' at each end and I specified them with a shorter eye to eye dimension to introduce some negative camber.

The price was reasonable, and the service was very good considering that it was a relatively small job, plus they have original drawing for Ace and Aceca springs.

The problem was the eyes weren't truly circular enough to press in the brass bush the Ace uses. It would have been fine for a rubber bush. I ended up using a die grinder to polish the spring round. I thought this had worked ok, but after 500 miles one of the rears has developed some play.

My recommendation is therefore to remind whoever makes your springs that they need to accept a brass bush, not the more typical rubber bush and hence a bit more accuracy is required.

SpqrEddie

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 197
    • View Profile
Re: Re-tempering leafsprings
« Reply #4 on: December 28, 2022, 09:11:13 »
Hello!
the cambering should be done cold, or the leafsprings should be hot when bent back into shape?

And the free camber should be measured from the center of the eye, or from the top or bottom of the spring eye? (C, D or E, in the picture atacched?)
Thanks!
Eddie

https://mgaguru.com/mgtech/suspensn/rs105.htm

James Eastwood

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 158
    • View Profile
Re: Re-tempering leafsprings
« Reply #5 on: December 29, 2022, 13:42:21 »
I think we're getting spring camber and wheel camber confused.

Wheel camber on an Ace is adjusted by fitting a spring with a different eye to eye measurement.

SpqrEddie

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 197
    • View Profile
Re: Re-tempering leafsprings
« Reply #6 on: December 29, 2022, 14:48:02 »
Hello James,
Indeed. that's the wheel camber.

I am tring to understand from where the free height of the spring should be measured.
The car is leaning to one side, and i need to recamber the leafsprings. It wont change much, but i am tring to understand if the "free camber", as decribed in the instructions manual should be measured from the center of the eye or from the bottom (or top) of it.
Thanks!
Eddie

Klassik Metall

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 235
    • View Profile
Re: Re-tempering leafsprings
« Reply #7 on: December 29, 2022, 18:46:18 »
The free camber of the springs as given in the Ace/Aceca handbook, is measured from the center of the spring eye
to the bottom of the main leaf. This is shown as "C" in the MG diagram.

The springs should be re-arched when hot, quenched and then tempered during a second controlled heating.

Regards, Luke.

SpqrEddie

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 197
    • View Profile
Re: Re-tempering leafsprings
« Reply #8 on: December 30, 2022, 08:19:48 »
Thank you Luke!
this is exactly what i wanted to know.
Best,
Edmondo