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Hello All,
I recently started stripping the AC Buckland which I purchased quite a while ago.  I have at last found suitable premises in which to do the necessary work, after planning permission being refused for a garage at home.  This took many months of architects haggling with the council without success. Anyway, after starting removing bits a few weeks ago, I thought that the front seats look different to all the photographs I had been looking at and later read in one of the many articles I had from earlier auctions, that the front seats fitted to my car are from a Triumph Herald.  So, the big question is, does anyone know of a pair of Buckland seats for sale.  Condition is not critical because I have to restore the rest of the interior.  Even a couple of frames would be alright.
I think there is a lot more I do not know about the car at the moment.  One of my concerns is regarding the hood, for which I only have a damaged frame.  I would like to see a Buckland sometime, to take some photographs of details I don't know.  I have only ever seen one and it was a pale yellow on show at the NEC many years ago.  I did attend the Classic Car Show at the NEC in November last year, but there wasn't a Buckland on the AC stand.
It would be great to hear from anyone who could help with the front seats, hood or just any information on these rare cars.
Richard Hutchings

Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Chrome two-eared spinners
« Last post by rsk289 on Today at 16:00:30 »
Yes - the manufacturer is now back working again, and we are hoping to get some idea of likely prices before much longer.
Please bear with us, it's still ongoing!
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: BEX1122
« Last post by bex316 on Today at 13:49:13 »
Regarding James' comments on BE475 I have done the same check on the Lucas components on my car and most of them have a month and year of manufacture a few months before the ex factory date of the car so I believe this is as much proof as you can get that the part is the same as the car left the factory with. Nice to keep these if at all possible.
As an example of replacing parts, it seems the norm that during a restoration the footbox panels are replaced. These are flat and not so expensive to replace and look (and are) new as a result which creates an easy result considering they are not painted. However, I feel it is a good thing to try and retain the old (original) parts as much as possible even if it shows. True, this is more easy if the car does not necessarily have to look like a 100 point car.

Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Chrome two-eared spinners
« Last post by Emjo on Today at 13:45:44 »
Good Afternoon
Any updates in regards to the spinners please

Thank you
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: BE 646
« Last post by dkp_cobra on Today at 12:31:39 »
These are the panels below the A-column.

They have a lot of holes and I can't imagine that I will use all of them. So, new panels must be made.

Checking their fitment

The next task is the front leaf spring. Since the car will be fitted with the heavier Ford 2.6 Zephyr engine the front leaf spring must be strengthened.
The original leaf spring:

I bought a leaf spring made for the 2.6 engine but the quality is quite poor.

Some of the leafs are of unequal length, i.e. the length from the middle (measured from the hole in the middle) to the left is different from the length to the right. I think this is not good if you want a symmetric springing behaviour. The difference is 1 cm.

But the worst is that the lowest leaf containing the bush is wider than the original spring. This leads to positive camber.
The original spring:

the new one:

So, my plan is to use the old leaf spring and combine it with two leafs of the new leaf spring. Building the correct leaf spring is only possible when the car is finished. I don't want to have this look for the Aceca:

Vintage, PVT & 2 Litre Forum / Cold running advice
« Last post by Big col on July 11, 2020, 23:01:51 »
Hello Folks,
I am seeking advice on warming up the engine to running temperature.
I have recently had my engine rebuilt and rebuilt the carburettors. I decided to fit a later distributor that I had refurbished by the Distributor Doctor. The reason was to try and eliminate the need for the advance/retard operation.
I am currently having difficulty in getting the car to idle until it has warmed up. If I keep the throttle depressed and the revs on then it will warm up nicely. However no matter what I do with the choke I can’t get the engine to keep running unless  I use the throttle. The hand throttle is not connected at present.
The obvious questions are, do I need to connect the hand throttle and is that why the cars originally have one.
Is the car in need of a hand advance/retard to aid cold running.
Is the timing best advanced or retarded for slow running.
The car start with ease and runs really well when it reaches running temperature.
Thank you Norman for the feedback.
I brought the complete exhaust to a local company who do ceramic coatings which can withstand 1000°C on all sorts of metallic parts (including guns...) and I have chosen a satin black finish. They offer gold, black and various shades of silver but went for black in the end as I thought that would suit the almost black, very dark green colour of the car quite well.
I can't wait to get the exhaust back as having it refinished has been on the to-do list for years and I'm quite excited by how nicer the car will certainly look with a nicely finished exhaust and a silencer which doesn't look anymore like it's going to fall apart!
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: AC registry
« Last post by Norman on July 10, 2020, 13:12:52 »
Very happy to co-operate in any way I can.
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: BEX1122
« Last post by Norman on July 10, 2020, 13:10:18 »
Great car, I'm sure you will not regret the effort of restoring it. Happy to provide moral support, I have a LHD Ace in the UK, but mine is a 2.6 so there are obviously a lot of differences compared to a Bristol. Good luck.
I have a zirconium finish on the exhaust of my 2.6, both on the cast iron manifolds and the stainless-steel Y-piece that joins their outputs together, and can't honestly say I've noticed any difference in heat soak. I was offered a choice of colour and chose silver, but the finish pealed off the stainless in no time, leaving the white base, which looks OK in its own right and, 15,000 miles on, still seems intact. So if you go this route and have the option of omitting the finish coat, that might be worth considering.
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