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« on: January 06, 2018, 09:41:42 »
This is the kit that was used, and here are some pointers-
James, attached is a shot of the set-up used to remove the hub from the taper.
The components are as follows:-
2 x heavy weight pieces of rectangular section with cut-outs to accommodate the brake drum flange etc.
1 x old spinner with the centre turned out (I have n/s and o/s spinners to suit).
1 x heavy s/steel flange plate that goes under the spinner and rests on the 2 sections and takes the load of the press.
1 x turned steel bearer which puts the load on the shoulder of the taper shaft rather than on the end of the thread.
1 x steel plug which sits on top of the steel bearer.
The first mistake I made, and it cost me a new drive shaft, was not making and using the turned steel bearer until I’d already collapsed the split-pin hole and crushed the end of the thread. This was done using my 10 tonne hydraulic puller. There is no way the end of the drive shaft can take enough pressure to part it without reliving the threaded part of the shaft of all load.
Once I realised that my nice new puller wasn’t up to the job, the set-up which eventually worked was embarked upon.
A bottle of red wine and a recommendation from a friend enabled me to use a 20t press in a local small friendly garage.
I had no idea how close I’d got to parting the joint with my 10t puller. It could have only needed a touch more pressure, or loads more. It took 19.5tonnes on the dial before it let go!
You are more than welcome to borrow all the bits and pieces needed to do the job, or you could bring your assembly here and I’m sure we could use the same local chap’s press, assuming it’ll let go before the press reaches its max pressure. Sending it via the post is an option if you care to arrange the collection and return.
I’m in New Milton BH256RR Where are you based?
Glenn
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