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Messages - Rob.Hendriks

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31
Constant
   The charcoal canister in question is an EVAP and as you say catches evaporative vapors from the fuel tank.
   The "mushrooms" you refer to are the atmospheric vents i.e. they allow air back into the tank (the filler cap should be sealed on an EVAP system) to prevent a vacuum.
   There are normally no safety valves between the tank and the EVAP filter. The fuel getting into the filter would have been caused by a combination of you overfilling and the car being parked on the incline. Modern cars have a floating ball type arrangement that prevents overfilling and this from happening.
   In all likelihood the majority of the fuel would have evaporated out of the canister overnight and the bucking you experienced was probably fuel starvation, caused by the remaining fuel in the canister sealing off the port and causing a vacuum. Once back on the level it was probably low enough to allow the canister to breathe normally. Any remaining fuel will have evaporated out over the next day or so. If you are concerned, try draining it and blowing air through for a few hours. Of course, the activated charcoal will be totally knackered, however this will be of little consequence unless you are strictly tested for emissions, in this case it would be best to replace the canister
   The small connection goes to the tank the large connection to the engine
   Rob

32
Gary
   Are you running injection or carbs? the A750 is a 45psi pump for EFI and the drop to feed it is critical, as is the supply diameter. An alternative should it be possible would be to use an in-tank pump
   https://www.aeromotiveinc.com/product-category/stealth-fuel-systems/

33
Gary
   The feed diameter and drop are very important.
   Given the size of the pump and the filter assembly I had no option but to mount mine in the boot (see picture below), the only other locations that could be considered were at the base of bulkhead behind the seats i.e. just forward of the lower A-arms (very cramped) and on the outside of the spare tyre well e.g. have the pre-filter and pump along the passengers side and the post-filter and regulator/bypass along the drivers side, with a braided hose running around the rear connecting the two
   If your filtration is fine then I would still suspect corrosion is causing the pump to stick, or electrical contacts
   
   

34
Also have the A750 pump installed and it works very well, even after being left for extended periods.
   It would seem that there are other issues here: as mentioned white powder suggests alloy corrosion, if this is finding its way into the fuel pump then one must suspect the tank is corroded or alloy components within the pump are corroding, either way a full investigation of the fuel system would be advisable
   The A750 pump must is gravity fed and should be at least 4" below the tank outlet. The outlet and feed line should be a minimum of AN-8, preferably AN-10. If the pump is sticking after sitting, it would suggest that there is perhaps some corrosion, have you checked for water in your fuel? The pumps run on very close tolerances so they recommend a 10 micron full flow pre-filter to prevent any foreign objects getting to the pump and jamming the internals, which could also be an issue

35
try
   http://www.northwestautomotivehydraulics.co.uk/
   
   their catalogue lists the parts numbers for AC MKIV, so presumably they will be able to help

36
Is that a crack in the weld heat affected zone or an illusion
   

37
Recent ACs / Decibels
« on: January 24, 2017, 18:19:30 »
Nik, there's "oldskool" and "agriskool", think they came from the latters museum

38
Recent ACs / Decibels
« on: January 24, 2017, 04:49:52 »
Think Nik has answered the question of who can carry out the work
   
   The permanent option (should you so choose) could easily be installed using a bypass and control valve, similar to that below, with the muffled pipe running inside and parallel to your existing side pipe, then rejoining so it comes into the side of the turn-out. The major disadvantage I see with this system is that you're permanently lugging about an extra 30kgs of plumbing under the car for 360 days of the year and when you're going racing, kgs = seconds, so you wouldn't even want it there !!
   
   The removable system gives the added advantage of while the car is up (prior to race day), the camber/castor can be set for the track, tyres changed, brakes checked, components inspected and greased, etc., all the things that you do not want to be doing on race day or have a scrutineer pick up
   
   

39
Recent ACs / Decibels
« on: January 23, 2017, 18:39:28 »
Personal option would be to have two sets of pipes, one track compliant and the other the current set, for road use. Changing them is about 5-6 bolts and about 30-40mins work per side and would be part of your normal track day preparation

40
Recent ACs / AC Mk11 Classic - available March 2014
« on: January 18, 2017, 05:34:02 »
Stephen, I'm just another boring ol' engineer, that happens to like women, the odd beer/vino and almost forgot... cars [;)]

41
Recent ACs / New RHD AC Cobra MkVI
« on: January 16, 2017, 05:55:27 »
Also baffling as to why there would be two models with much the same designation
   AC 378 GT Zagato
   AC 378 MKVI
   
   Please step forward the "real" 378

42
Easier still buy a 4 post hoist :)
   They come in varying heights/capacities, are relatively inexpensive (USD2K new), the car can be parked on top of them and they save a whole lot of *%^&*
   They can be purchased with a bridge lift or just lower the car onto axle stands if you wish to remove the wheels.
   Depending on your garage stud height another vehicle can be parked over/under
   
   
   

43
Recent ACs / AC Mk11 Classic - available March 2014
« on: February 23, 2016, 22:03:32 »
Good news:)
   The first parts of the new 8-stack have arrived at Autotrend.
   

44
General Forum / Posting Photos
« on: December 23, 2015, 21:30:47 »
had to let mice out to play :)
   

45
General Forum / Posting Photos
« on: December 23, 2015, 03:20:12 »

   
   

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