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Messages - Rob.Hendriks

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Recent ACs / Re: Two new models
« on: July 26, 2020, 15:00:18 »
What the majority of the tree-hugging populace seem to forget, is that without hydrocarbons (HC), their beloved e-cars would not exist, let alone operate e.g.
  • the bitumen/asphalt roads they drive on (except our US friends driving on concrete) are made from HC
  • the vast majority of the plastic components inside most cars are made from HC
  • have never seen an excavator (other than the grandsons toys) that is not powered by HC
  • have never seen an a hi-volume/hi-pressure, electric water pump, in remote location
  • have never seen earth moving trucks, powered by batteries
  • electric ships...hmmm that's a work on
the list just goes on and on

As for Li-ion battery disposal, last time I looked there were only two places in the world - France and China, of which China had closed it's doors because of pressure to reduce the polution and demand was far outstripping what they were able to safely process.
Many countries (including NZ) are just stock-piling the spent batteries, creating another potential environmental issue

So an electric Cobra - blasphemy I say !!

Recent ACs / Re: Two new models
« on: July 07, 2020, 16:29:02 »
Godforbid the notion ever takes root; for a silent run out in the countryside, suggest dusting off the trainers and doing the post breakfast trip from Fennel to Manse on foot, will do wonders for the environment and the waistline;)

Recent ACs / Two new models
« on: July 03, 2020, 06:06:00 »

Recent ACs / Re: Re-imagined British Motoring Icon
« on: February 24, 2020, 02:50:29 »

I do not see the point of your post

Whilst AC's progress in the 21st century may not have lived up to its media hype, they have continued to manufacture cars - post 2000 Superblowers and then the CRS/AC MKII Classic/Zagato/MKVI/AC378, to name a few and others that we are probably not aware of.

The continual lambasting of the company and marque post Frimley is concerning and considering it is voiced on a public forum, is detrimental to the hope of any improved relationship with the AC management and to us as proud owners of vehicles produced in this era.

We - the owners post 2000, to my knowledge have never criticisied the Hurlock or Angliss management, nor sort to bring it into disrepute, even though our opinions may be otherwise. We would therefore expect that as a custodian of an important section the marque, that one observes some respect for us and our cars, and the consequences of your statements that are visible to the public

PS. Admimistrator: Would request that this post be removed, as it serves no purpose other than to degradate both the current management and owners of post-2000 vehicles

Working on the KISS principle, you need air (in/out), fuel, compression and spark to make an engine work. So based on this thread thus far:

AIR (inlet) - has the filter been cleaned/replaced. A severely blocked air cleaner can case this type of problem

AIR (exhaust) - many people forget that just as an engine breathes in, it must also breathe out. Is there an exhaust blockage e.g. the catalytic converter. You mention that the CO2 emissions are out, suggesting that the catalytic converter is not functioning properly and you also mention low exhaust temperatures, these combined raise concerns. A “normal” engine exhaust temperature is 400-900C and catalytic converters do not really work well below 250-300C, hence the suggestion to warm it up, an optimum temperature being around 400C

FUEL – supposedly the carb has been setup correctly, but has the fuel inlet pressure been checked (had a similar problem with a friends double pumper). Air/fuel ratio will have a direct effect on exhaust temperatures. Also a 650CFM double pumper is a lot of carb for what is basically a stock 302.

COMPRESSION - you have confirmed is fine

SPARK – would suggest checking the distributor, worn bushes or bearings could cause this issue at higher RPM


Can anyone advise the location of the VIN# on the 2002, COB/COX5001-5012 cars??

Cobra (Thames Ditton) Forum / Re: Battery isolation switch
« on: April 03, 2019, 22:45:04 »

If you do not want to go the route of a cable activated cut-off, with a big ugly cut-off switch, then would recommended either of the above. They are both bi-polar relays/solenoids, whereby power is only used for the mircosecond required to carry out the switching, the relay being held in either the off or on position magnetically.
The EV200 is approved for motorsports
The BlueSea solenoid is double the size but comes with the added function of having an additional level of security, in that the solenoid can be manually locked with the yellow switch at the end
Both solenoids can be easily switched, however the above switch gives the user another level of security in that the "gate" has to be moved to the other side before the switch can be operated.

I have the BlueSea solenoid and switch fitted and it has operated flawlessly. The switch is mounted on a small alloy bracket, held to the back of the alloy dash with 3M tape

Recent ACs / Re: AC Mk11 Classic - available March 2014
« on: March 31, 2019, 00:37:05 »
You may remember from an earlier post that the spring ends had not been ground flat (as per the drawings) and thrust washers had not been installed, instead a small stainless washer was slipped in either side.

While the diff was out replaced the spring bushes and installed thrust washers

Decided to check the rear wheel bearing adjustment, which can only be done with the drive stub axles removed. It is a rather complex arrangement whereby a retaining ring has to be removed and the bearings adjusted by a ring with a proprietary C-spanner (I had this made earlier)

Also checked for the first time the outer hub nut, was shocked to find that it was barely finger tight. As can be seen on the photo below, only several threads were engaged, the rest rusted where they have not been tightened. This could not have come undone as the threads are very tight and require a wrench to tighten them. Additionally they should have been torqued to 135nm.

Luckily the inherent design of the hub assembly holds it together, or else this could have caused a nasty incident

Not surprisingly with the play removed from the spring ends and the hub nut tightened, the car was more firm and positive, to the point where a small amount of understeer had developed. This was adjusted out by hardening the rear shocks one point

Recent ACs / Re: AC Mk11 Classic - available March 2014
« on: March 31, 2019, 00:23:25 »

Had to replace the wing mounts, visor mounts, wings and visors as well. As for the soft top - certain gentleman we both know, once told me that soft tops are only for girlies :)
In response though, the track in the top of the screen is totally different, the width is different, height is different, therefore the soft top will stay where it was and always will be - in the original packaging on the uppermost shelf


Recent ACs / Re: AC Mk11 Classic - available March 2014
« on: March 31, 2019, 00:17:16 »
Diff removal and instllation with the jack is much safer and easier than trying to manually move this 55kg lump around

Had to take a slightly agricultural approach (aka, I'm getting PO taking this diff out) after both permatex and loctite sealants have failed. Casting faces are true and without damage, so why the failure is occuring is somewhat of a mystery. This time the faces were "coated" with aircraft tank sealant and after reassembly left for 48hrs to cure. Both seals were replaced with OEM parts.

Has been several months now and there is a very slight weep from the seals after spirited driving. The diff itself seems to be holding up.

Recent ACs / Re: AC Mk11 Classic - available March 2014
« on: March 30, 2019, 23:08:32 »
It has been a few months since the last posting and there have been many happy miles motored in the interim
Pleased to say the tank collector has worked flawlessly and that the slip yoke repair has stopped the leaking. Left to do on the list for the WoF (MoT) was replacing the windscreen, little did I know what was waiting in store for me, added to this the diff started leaking yet again and the speedo sensor was again damaged. Decided if the diff was coming out again to at least buy myself a transmission jack to support the 55kg lump and that the spring eye bushings and washers should be replaced, now I’d had the parts fabricated.

New windscreen was covered by my insurance and was purchased from Brasscraft, complete with new frame.

Removal of the windscreen is a 10-20min process and involves removing the support arm screws that secure the pillars to the frame and then sliding the screen up and out, then removing the four bolts and sliding the pillars up and out (if required), along with the escutcheon plates. Easily done with two persons, though can be done by oneself with care, remembering that the screen will fall aft when the last bolt is removed, so a chock is required to prevent this. The chock will also be required to get the required angle and align the windscreen when reinstalling.

Now the positive thinkers amongst us would say that the new screen should just slot in between the pillars, everything should be screwed and bolted back up and the job is done – if only it was this easy. The new screen was lifted into place and it was instantly obvious the side pillars were very different (not only in quality) and the new screen also seemed to be slightly wider. A comparison of the pillars confirmed that they were indeed quite different, which set off alarm bells as to the actual screen itself.

Quality and finish of new screen is far superior

A match and measure up revealed not only was the Brasscraft screen longer by 15mm, but that it also had a more pronounced curve along the scuttle. A call to Chris Glover confirmed that there was only one type of screen for the MKI/II/III/IV cars, so what was wrong? A few emails later it was discovered that HT order in their own screens and make their own frames, somewhere along the line a slightly different shape evolving. The question was, to try and get a new screen from HT, or to continue with the Brasscraft screen. I also have a new Brasscraft glass, that was sent by AL as a replacement for the chipped screen when the car was delivered, so the decision was really made for me, however the practicalities of achieving this were a little daunting, as it involved enlarging the existing pillar holes on the body without chipping or damaging the GRP, making new larger escutcheon plates and then fitting the new screen. Hoping and praying that the measurements taken over and over again were correct. Detailed measuring revealed that the old screen was not centred on the body and was in itself 4mm offset and that the support bracket was 6mm off centre – things were starting to get complicated. Decided that the screen had to be centred and that the centre bracket would not be screwed to the screen, but used as a support for both the screen and the refurbished Lucas dipping mirror

Measuring up

Ready for surgery

New and old escutcheon plates

All-in-all everything went smoothly and the new screen slotted in nicely. However the next issue was the screen would not sit down on the new scuttle rubber and there was a 3-5mm gap in the valley on either side. Tried lubricating the rubber and sliding a ruler through under the rubber to attempt to get it to sit down, all to no avail. As a last resort tried the rubber off the old screen which was thinner and thus more supple, this worked and allowed the screen to be positioned correctly (as correct as it would be given the issues) and get the seal along the leading edge of the bodywork

Mirror mounting and screen bracket

Mission accomplished 😊

The part number for a 1987-93 Mustang 5.0 timing cover is: RF-E8AE-6059-AA
Available from Summit Racing, JEGS, Ebay, Rock Auto, or any place that supplies Ford or after market parts

General Forum / Re: The Future?
« on: October 06, 2018, 04:51:11 »
the right answer when asked how long a piece of string is - twice as long as its middle to its end (as quoted by my friends 11yo)

Recent ACs / Re: Battery replacement
« on: September 07, 2018, 23:31:39 »
You may have just given us the cause for the starting problems. Over-running or dieseling is not good for your engine and needs to be addressed asap. It occurs when there is no ignition source i.e. the key is turned off and the remaining fuel/air mix is ignited by a hot spot within the cylinder. This hot spot can be carbon build up (which would be unlikely in a newly built engine), the timing being too far advanced or the mixture being too lean making the engine run hot and thus causing the plugs to overheat. Sluggish starting when hot is also a symptom of the timing being too far advanced. Would carry out a few checks:

Spark plugs
First take out all the spark plugs and examine them carefully. Look at the electrodes and the nose of the insulator for any signs of overheating. The plugs should have a light brown coating all over - if they appear white or glazed they have been overheating

Check engine timing
If the spark plugs aren't at fault, you should next check the timing. Usually, you will have had other warning of over advanced timing, such as pinking under hard acceleration or hard/sluggish turn over when starting hot

Air leaks
If dieseling persists, your next avenue of investigation is the fuel system. The problem may be caused by a weak fuel/air mixture because of a badly adjusted carburettor or air leaking into the inlet manifold. A weak fuel/air mixture can make the engine run much hotter than it should.

Recent ACs / Re: Battery replacement
« on: August 29, 2018, 07:56:36 »

I’m no sparkie, but here are a couple of basic tests to carry to determine if your battery is charging and/or holding a charge

Using a digital multimeter, set the dial to DC voltage to low range e.g. <24VDC
Next, take your multimeter’s black lead to the negative battery terminal and the red lead to the positive terminal. Hold each one firmly until the multimeter provides a voltage readout.

12.66+ battery is 100% charged and in good shape
12.45 - 75% charged
12.24 - 50% charged
12.06 - 25% charged
11.89 - 0% charged

If you’re seeing 12.45 volts or higher, your battery is in good shape and it’s time to check other common culprits. If you’re below a 75% charge, your battery might still bring the car to life, but not reliably. Below this threshold, your battery may need recharging or even replacing depending on its age.

Now start the engine and carry out the same test, the reading should be between 13.7 – 14.7, showing your battery is receiving charge from the alternator

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