Messages

31

ACOC News and Events / Sad News of Stuart Wallace

« on: February 07, 2014, 13:15:11 »

I am sorry to hear this news. Although it's some years since I last met him, I still recall enjoying our technical chats about the AC engine. His articles were always informative. He seemed like a very nice person too. My condolescences to his family and friends. Ian.

32

Cobra (Thames Ditton) Forum / Photo flood: CSX2287 at Washington Auto Show 2014

« on: February 04, 2014, 22:39:02 »

"X" in the chassis number meant left-hand drive (rather than simply "export"), on ACs from the 1930s up to the Frua. But I agree with Laurance's sentiments. Not forgetting Alan Turner's contribution to the chassis development. Not sure what the "C" stood for. Speculation usually suggests "Carroll" or "Cobra", but maybe the numbering pre-dated the "Cobra" title? Someone here will know much more than me

33

Cobra (Thames Ditton) Forum / MkI, MkII & MkIII-70s & onwards usage

« on: December 15, 2013, 22:45:27 »

I've always found this whole topic confusing. Back in the 1980s, some letters received from Thames Ditton had a reference to the AC trademark being used by licenced users "3000ME and Mk III 289". I assume the 3000ME was the AC Scotland version, but I didn't understand the Mk III 289 reference.

34

Vintage, PVT & 2 Litre Forum / Postwar DHC for sale.

« on: November 16, 2013, 22:39:46 »

Stiffening (as distinct from strengthening) might benefit a drophead, so that the tops of the A posts don't move around relative to the doors. But maybe the AC has enough bending stiffness? The chassis on a 2 Litre is already boxed behind the crusiform. If anyone wants to offer me a ride in their 2 Litre DHC, I'll accept in the name of scientific analysis

35

Vintage, PVT & 2 Litre Forum / Postwar DHC for sale.

« on: November 15, 2013, 16:56:17 »

Thanks for that info'. I recall now that it came with a bare engine block (last year), so the numbers would tally. Thanks for the tip-off for the H and H auction for another beheaded saloon:
   
   http://www.classic-auctions.com/Auctions/04-12-2013-ChateauImpney-1346/1951AC2-LitreDropheadCoupe-37446.aspx
   
   I hope that they find good homes.

36

Vintage, PVT & 2 Litre Forum / Postwar DHC for sale.

« on: November 13, 2013, 22:27:27 »

Are you sure about that chassis number? EL1093 came up on ebay (UK) last year dismantled for restoration and engineless. I agree, the drophead looks good!

37

Mk IV, Superblower, CRS and other Continuation Cars Forum / Oil pressure drop

« on: October 29, 2013, 10:28:25 »

As long as the oil is not too hot, then it is the rate of oil flow that is important. Pressure causes this flow, but as the oil heats up and becomes 'thinner' (lower viscosity), the pressure needed to get good flow reduces. So it might be okay, but an oil temperature gauge could be a good investment just to be safe.

38

Vintage, PVT & 2 Litre Forum / Weller Engine Oil

« on: September 20, 2013, 11:43:51 »

Semi synthetics and synthetics are a slightly different matter from conventional multigrades, and *might* be perfectly fine in classic engine designs. The Miller website gives similar information on levels of detergent recommended for old engines depending on their condition and age of design:
   
   http://www.millersoils.co.uk/automotive/classic-engine-oil.asp
   
   Robin's AC engine improvements, for circulation and filtering, look very good indeed.

39

Vintage, PVT & 2 Litre Forum / Weller Engine Oil

« on: September 20, 2013, 00:23:30 »

The catastrophic disasters are most likely with an engine that contains plenty of sludge (i.e it hadn't been recently overhauled before changing to high detergent oil). Also engines without full-flow oil filters are at higher risk. I assume that CLBN engines had proper filters from new? The worst disaster I know of this type was when a locomotive engine exploded. Somebody warned the owner months earlier...! Other problems of modern oils may eat away slowly, unnoticed at first. If you hear the small end tapping, then that is usually a bad sign! I hope yours will be okay.

40

Vintage, PVT & 2 Litre Forum / Rear spring removal (2 Litre).

« on: September 19, 2013, 11:08:15 »

I'll be sure to write up any overhaul jobs I do. I'll be checking over the back axle too.

41

Vintage, PVT & 2 Litre Forum / Rear spring removal (2 Litre).

« on: September 18, 2013, 19:02:29 »

I'm pleased to report that I've removed my rear leaf-springs without too much excitement. I clamped short lengths of angle girder to each end of the spring, and also clamped the bottom plate of the spring which effectively straightens out the centre portion of the spring. Then I slackened the U-bolt nuts a little to relieve a bit more load. There was still a little load left in the spring. The end of it sprung up an inch or so after bolt removal.
   
   As suspected, I've confirmed that my springs have too much free camber (6.25" instead of 5.75"). It's a common error due to the wrong figure being published in all the handbooks. It then causes excessive banging of axle against chassis. These springs were almost certainly fitted by the factory circa 1960. My rear ground clearance was also 0.5 inch higher than towards the front.

42

Vintage, PVT & 2 Litre Forum / Rear spring removal (2 Litre).

« on: September 17, 2013, 21:42:13 »

It occurred to me that one could probably get away with clamping each half of the spring (against a pair of straight bars/girders) separately. That would keep over 90 percent of the spring almost straight, and would not require long-travel clamps. It would also take advantage of the thick straight bottom plates on the springs. I'll see what I can do tomorrow!

43

Vintage, PVT & 2 Litre Forum / Rear spring removal (2 Litre).

« on: September 17, 2013, 11:08:33 »

If the above photo doesn't come up, visit this link:
   
   http://www.ac2litre.com/rearleafspring.jpg
   
   The pivot ends of the spring are slightly higher than the axle, so in theory, one could place a beam on top of the spring, and somehow clamp the middle of the spring. Then remove the front pivot bolt.

44

Vintage, PVT & 2 Litre Forum / Rear spring removal (2 Litre).

« on: September 17, 2013, 02:03:05 »

Thanks for the replies. The handbooks describe removal of axle by releasing the U-bolts (the springs still attached to the chassis). I can't make sense of that either, unless the car is left with jacks under the springs?
   
   
   
   Hopefully there's a photo above. Note how close the spring is to the underpan. Also, that the axle is already touching the chassis (weight is still on the wheels). Some garages used to have spring clamps and spreaders, but even these would not fit onto the AC.

45

Vintage, PVT & 2 Litre Forum / Rear spring removal (2 Litre).

« on: September 16, 2013, 21:23:02 »

I'm the webmaster at that site. Many thanks for your kind compliments. I will report back on the solution when I've worked out this puzzle. If I was to follow the handbook instructions, and release the front pivot bolt, it would release about 300 pounds-force and 8 inches of travel (double the deflection measured at the axle). Ideally, I need some kind of long travel clamp to release it gently.