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Messages - Klassik Metall

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46
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Weber carbs
« on: December 01, 2021, 18:36:12 »
I'm currently working on RSX 5501 & can confirm that Webers were fitted on this car from new together with a Mays head.
The only real difference on the 2.6 cars was a different throttle pedal that uses a cable rather than a rod linkage.

Weber manifolds for Mays heads are available from Webcon in the UK but they are somewhat chunky looking when compared to originals.

Newman Cams, also in the UK can regrind the original Ford cam to give a useful power increase. Their regrind has a duration of
260 degrees, which they state puts the power within a useable rev band for a road car. The valve timing for this cam is 20/60/60/20

The exhaust for the Mays head was either the twin iron "Y" style manifolds or separate 3 into 2 steel headers.

Lastly, the YouTube video is interesting but I'm unsure why they're going to all that trouble & expense for such a small power increase.
These engines can easily make good power even with the iron head but the limiting factor is the original main bearing caps that crack
down the middle & the useless original clutch design. Both these problems were long ago solved by the late Greg Margetts of Competition Engine Services.
He once told me that a properly prepared engine with a flowed Mays head easily made 220 BHP, all without overboring or crank stroking.

Regards Luke.


47
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Aceca seat runners
« on: October 26, 2021, 08:04:41 »
Frederic's contact details are on his website. https://www.adla.be/fr/
Regards, Luke.

48
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: 1958 Ace Indicator switch
« on: September 07, 2021, 20:00:33 »
Plenty of info on this website.
https://valvechatter.com/?cat=1568

Regards, Luke.

49
If you're having to retighten the rear hub nuts every couple of hundred miles then I think there is definitely something wrong!
If the tapers are lapped together & the original style keys replaced, as outlined in my earlier post, there shouldn't be any issue with normal road use.
Personally, I wouldn't replace the original castle nut & split pin as they are a long used & reliable locking method.
Just my own opinion/experience of the factors involved, others may have their own take of course.

Regards, Luke.

50
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Ace/Aceca seat runners
« on: June 02, 2021, 06:58:36 »
I've sent you a PM with his details.

51
I have six NOS Lockheed track rod end rubber boots that came with a job lot of Ace spares. I don't know how old these are but two are in perfect condition & would be ideal for using as a sample to produce copies.
The other four are slightly dried out & hardened but I would say are still usable, they would probably benefit from a good soaking in rubber preserver/softener.
If these are of any use to you please send me a PM.
Regards, Luke.


52
I fitted this setup to a customers car a couple of years ago & so far it has been trouble free.
There were no issues regarding fitting & everything was a straight swap for the original components.
My only slight complaint was that the hubs & shafts weren't zinc plated, which considering the price was a little disappointing.
In this particular case the customer had the parts zinc plated before fitting.
I didn't have any issues regarding fitting the lock nuts & didn't feel that they would cause any thread damage when removed.
However, I would personally have preferred a castellated nut & spit pin arrangement.
Overall, I think that this kit is a good solution to a not uncommon problem.

I'd also like to point out that all the failed original style shafts that I've seen, have failed due to the sharp corners on the locking key &
the less than perfect seating of the tapered components.
When I fit the standard setup I lap the taper on the shaft into the hub with very fine grinding paste & then check the fit by blueing.
I also replace the standard keys with ones with rounded ends that completely fill the recess in the drive shaft & remove the major stress raiser.
I've yet to experience a failure when the parts are assembled in this way & when I've taken them apart they need considerable pressure
to separate the parts, I normally have to use a hydraulic press as I cant separate them with the usual hub puller.

I also agree with Barrie about the standard rear dampers allowing the drive shaft UJs to lock up on full droop.
I fit custom made Koni classic dampers that are around 30mm shorter than the standard set & allow more "spirited" cornering.

Regards, Luke.

53
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: ACE parts and a question
« on: November 06, 2020, 16:32:11 »
Thanks Peter!

54
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: ACE parts and a question
« on: November 06, 2020, 10:05:35 »
The Moss gearbox doesn't have an angle drive.
The normal speedo cable is quite long & should exit the drive in a big arc under the RH floor.
Rodd briggs can supply new HT conduit clips.
[url]http://www.ac-6.co.uk/spare_parts_list_six%20-%20Ignition,%20timing,%20electrical.htm/url]

Luke.

55
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Ace spare wheel Knob / Nut
« on: October 07, 2020, 11:20:29 »
Yes, threaded 3/8" BSW.

56
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Ace spare wheel Knob / Nut
« on: October 06, 2020, 19:15:50 »
The ones I have all look like this.

57
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Ace spare wheel Knob / Nut
« on: October 06, 2020, 10:14:52 »
I have a few of these. I'll check what I have and post some photos later.

58
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Aceca
« on: April 17, 2019, 06:41:36 »
I'm still happy to talk all things Aceca if you'd like to give me a call. I'm currently engaged in chassis up rebuilds on both Ford & AC engined versions.

I also had a look at AE805 a few years ago whilst it was being restored by AC Heritage.

The lightweight gearbox has the same internals as a Triumph TR3 in a magnesium alloy main casing. The bell housing is a separate AC casting but the gear change remote & tail housing are both standard TR3 parts. All the gearbox parts are available from Rimmer Bros or other Triumph specialists.

Luke.

59
This car has cropped up on the forum & in Action at various times. I guess the price is high for a 2 litre special but it depends what value a buyer places on it's unique history.

Here's an old posting from 2015. https://www.acownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=2965.msg23218#msg23218

60
Regarding orientation of the bleed nipple, I've always fitted the cylinders with the bleed nipple pointing upwards. I take the common sense view that any air in the system will collect at the highest point. However, as the rear cylinders are mounted vertically rather thank horizontally this is less of an issue than it could be. The other reason for mounting them this way up is it's much easier to see what you're doing when bleeding the cylinders & I've always found that the original AC bleeding tool works really well for this job.

As to the actual bleeding, I just follow the procedure in the AC handbook & firstly wind in the adjusters so that the shoes are pushed fully against the drums, which in turn forces the pistons as far as possible into the wheel cylinders.Using this method I've always managed to achieve a good pedal.Occasionally it's also been necessary to bleed air from the master cylinder by just cracking the brake pipe nut on the cylinder outlet, whilst a helper depresses the brake pedal.

Lastly, as Barrie stated it's very important that the rear cylinders can "float" on the back plate so that the shoes can self centre within the drum. I've found that rather than plain nuts with spring washers the original fitment here were very slim 1/4 BSF Aerotite or Simmonds lock nuts. These nuts are now somewhat hard to source but Barry Howsley had some available a couple of years ago.

Regards Luke.

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