31
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Two Aceca projects for sale in the Netherlands
« on: June 17, 2020, 01:46:47 »
I think at that price the "scary" one will forever be a project...............
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32
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Who has an AC-engined Ace with optional heater???
« on: June 11, 2020, 21:21:09 »
I just edited my earlier post with the Spigot picture.
33
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Who has an AC-engined Ace with optional heater???
« on: June 11, 2020, 20:05:13 »
For what its worth my Bristol 400 has the water control valve mounted under the dash in the cabin.
I dont see the point in it being just adjustable in the engine bay and you could easily mount it in the cabin.
My take off for the water is via a brass spigot (See attached photo)assembly that mounts in one of the water hoses (Tubano or straight) to the water pump.
I am sure some ACOC silver-back told me it was the same system in Ace/Aceca.
The Bristol 400 set up is 1949 but quite "posh" and a clayton heater--I will try to locate my cabin water control valve and post up.
Graham
I dont see the point in it being just adjustable in the engine bay and you could easily mount it in the cabin.
My take off for the water is via a brass spigot (See attached photo)assembly that mounts in one of the water hoses (Tubano or straight) to the water pump.
I am sure some ACOC silver-back told me it was the same system in Ace/Aceca.
The Bristol 400 set up is 1949 but quite "posh" and a clayton heater--I will try to locate my cabin water control valve and post up.
Graham
34
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Who has an AC-engined Ace with optional heater???
« on: June 11, 2020, 17:48:27 »
I would use the search function of the forum and enter "Delaney Gallay" as theres a few threads on the heaters and may lead you to an owner who can answer the question.
To my untrained eye the connection on the housing looks "home made".
Graham
To my untrained eye the connection on the housing looks "home made".
Graham
36
General Forum / Re: Powered by Ford emblems
« on: June 07, 2020, 10:22:10 »
Ciro - welcome.
You might get a better response on the mkiv part of the forum.
I would try hawk cars or redline engineering in UK.
Not sure of correct script for Mkiv as many of the cars I have seen don’t have them.
The first two mentioned are in a June ACtion if you are a member of the club, not just forum.
There are also a number of stateside suppliers.
Graham
You might get a better response on the mkiv part of the forum.
I would try hawk cars or redline engineering in UK.
Not sure of correct script for Mkiv as many of the cars I have seen don’t have them.
The first two mentioned are in a June ACtion if you are a member of the club, not just forum.
There are also a number of stateside suppliers.
Graham
37
Recent ACs / Re: Mystery MkV or CRS?
« on: May 31, 2020, 17:57:11 »
I put a few comments and photos on the MkIV and CRS thread saying why I think its a MKV
Graham
Graham
38
Mk IV, Superblower, CRS and other Continuation Cars Forum / Re: Mystery CRS or MkV?
« on: May 31, 2020, 14:58:35 »
The dash is Malta (MKV) car,body carbon fibre . I have photos of CRS9536 (last but one) and a silver Maltese car and red maltese car (file 35 and cob%2011 below).
9536 (img_3761) has a different dash and the later type of CRS instruments.
All CRS I have seen dont have this dash type -more superblower or Maltese car but this has a carbon body so my money is on it being a MkV Maltese car with the opportunity to assemble it correctly.
I was looking at the silver & red Maltese cars before I bought my CRS in 2011. One was at Nick Whale(Silver) and Red at Barry Ely sports cars (And still is ) where they also have a CRS for sale.
https://barryelysportscars.co.uk/category/showroom/ac/
Graham
9536 (img_3761) has a different dash and the later type of CRS instruments.
All CRS I have seen dont have this dash type -more superblower or Maltese car but this has a carbon body so my money is on it being a MkV Maltese car with the opportunity to assemble it correctly.
I was looking at the silver & red Maltese cars before I bought my CRS in 2011. One was at Nick Whale(Silver) and Red at Barry Ely sports cars (And still is ) where they also have a CRS for sale.
https://barryelysportscars.co.uk/category/showroom/ac/
Graham
39
Mk IV, Superblower, CRS and other Continuation Cars Forum / Re: Clutch Quadrant Replacement
« on: May 28, 2020, 22:14:13 »
Michael,
I was thinking about why the clutch action is now "so nice"-perhaps the small change in diameter increases the mechanical advantage enough over the standard quadrant to make a difference, but the spring force in the clutch is not huge---I have a mcleod clutch in my uprated(Stroked) CRS and I tested it in my 10 ton press and could hardly measure the force--I also asked mcleod what the force was in lbs but they never replied.
I would be keen to try one of these new quadrants you fitted but can find it on internet --can you plese PM me or link it here for others as well.
Regards,
Graham
I was thinking about why the clutch action is now "so nice"-perhaps the small change in diameter increases the mechanical advantage enough over the standard quadrant to make a difference, but the spring force in the clutch is not huge---I have a mcleod clutch in my uprated(Stroked) CRS and I tested it in my 10 ton press and could hardly measure the force--I also asked mcleod what the force was in lbs but they never replied.
I would be keen to try one of these new quadrants you fitted but can find it on internet --can you plese PM me or link it here for others as well.
Regards,
Graham
40
Mk IV, Superblower, CRS and other Continuation Cars Forum / Re: 212 Colour
« on: May 16, 2020, 10:53:27 »
Matt-one of the issues I think is AC would paint any colour the original customer wanted.
However I was looking thru my paperwork and I found a one page vehicle specific inspection report for my CRS where they run thru a check list and at the top is paint colour , followed by paint code.
Have you checked thru all your paperwork to see if you have this sheet?
I dont know if the factory kept copies of the originals,
Its got a few other torque figure settings ie steeing wheel nut 50lbs.ft,Steering UJ 21lbs/ft ,top wishbone inner fixing kitx 4 -180lbs/ft, a question on ford adjustable steering column, or rover steering column fitted, key numbers, cobra imobiliser/alarm data.
Incidentally on the CRS/SC212 body as its carbon fibre the weave often shows thru at certain angles (I assume this is not the touchup you refer to?
Regards,
Graham
However I was looking thru my paperwork and I found a one page vehicle specific inspection report for my CRS where they run thru a check list and at the top is paint colour , followed by paint code.
Have you checked thru all your paperwork to see if you have this sheet?
I dont know if the factory kept copies of the originals,
Its got a few other torque figure settings ie steeing wheel nut 50lbs.ft,Steering UJ 21lbs/ft ,top wishbone inner fixing kitx 4 -180lbs/ft, a question on ford adjustable steering column, or rover steering column fitted, key numbers, cobra imobiliser/alarm data.
Incidentally on the CRS/SC212 body as its carbon fibre the weave often shows thru at certain angles (I assume this is not the touchup you refer to?
Regards,
Graham
41
General Discussion / Re: Is this possibly the most boring Forum any where!
« on: May 12, 2020, 19:31:48 »
Inactive maybe but boring when something does come up not so sure! I could bore people to death with tales of my Volvo brakes,Ride on mower starter motor, Freelander 2 rear drum handbrake adjuster issues or log splitter hydraulic leaks but that may be deemed boring.
I suppose it suggests covers are on, trickle chargers running and not many people spanner-ing their AC. My tow cars are in storage offsite unfortunately (I have no garage) but I did buy some taps on ebay to fit the overdrive inhibit switch to my Bristol 400 once I can get it.
Graham
I suppose it suggests covers are on, trickle chargers running and not many people spanner-ing their AC. My tow cars are in storage offsite unfortunately (I have no garage) but I did buy some taps on ebay to fit the overdrive inhibit switch to my Bristol 400 once I can get it.
Graham
42
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Bristol pushrod problems
« on: May 03, 2020, 19:16:09 »
Ron-Might be worth looking at iridium spark plugs if not already running them. Theres a thread on the forum regading the benefits seen, but no compensation for the correct timing.
Graham
Graham
43
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Weber 34ICH carbs on Bristol engine
« on: April 23, 2020, 09:14:32 »
Glen,
I recall some Arnolt users of this carb. Sure Barrie Bird discussed this with me as an option for my Bristol 400, so may be an article or two in the old action magazines.
It did remind me of some info so here’s what I found ( jetted similar to solex)
http://www.frazernash-usa.com/Bristol/RacingArnoltBristols.htm
Graham
I recall some Arnolt users of this carb. Sure Barrie Bird discussed this with me as an option for my Bristol 400, so may be an article or two in the old action magazines.
It did remind me of some info so here’s what I found ( jetted similar to solex)
http://www.frazernash-usa.com/Bristol/RacingArnoltBristols.htm
Graham
44
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Help required - Can't split the engine and gearbox
« on: April 15, 2020, 11:40:01 »
Thats good news!
I had a debate with a fellow AC member about fitting a bush or a bearing and as mine (CRS) came with a bush I put a bush back in.
The discussion at the time was it was a very rare occurrence that the bearing race packed in.
I would check your crankshaft end float is ok if this setup has been running incorrectly for a while -other likely issues could be worn synchros if the input shaft has been turning and not stationary due to being gripped by the input shaft bearing, but you would have noticed that driving the car with messy/crashed gear changes. Also the input shaft needs checking for any wear /damage.
Theres a few forum threads about substandard clutch release bearings (Carbon breaks up), so a few things to watch out for.
By the sounds of things you are on top of these sorts of issues.
I did wonder when putting it back if the gearbox will need to be loose to line everything up correctly.
Graham
I had a debate with a fellow AC member about fitting a bush or a bearing and as mine (CRS) came with a bush I put a bush back in.
The discussion at the time was it was a very rare occurrence that the bearing race packed in.
I would check your crankshaft end float is ok if this setup has been running incorrectly for a while -other likely issues could be worn synchros if the input shaft has been turning and not stationary due to being gripped by the input shaft bearing, but you would have noticed that driving the car with messy/crashed gear changes. Also the input shaft needs checking for any wear /damage.
Theres a few forum threads about substandard clutch release bearings (Carbon breaks up), so a few things to watch out for.
By the sounds of things you are on top of these sorts of issues.
I did wonder when putting it back if the gearbox will need to be loose to line everything up correctly.
Graham
45
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Help required - Can't split the engine and gearbox
« on: April 14, 2020, 09:46:08 »
James ,
Having recently split the gearbox from engine insitu on my CRS it seems you have covered all bases regarding the likely cause of the problem( input shaft to bearing)
Barring a silly/ obscure problem like some unseen bell housing /starter motor/bolt or nut still being in place, or the engine steady damper causing interference , or there not being enough lateral distance to do the box/ engine split( unlikely given you could rig a front damper puller up).
It would appear that the input shaft to crank shaft bearing is the issue, but odd the engine can be turned over , or drive shaft rotated, which would suggest some sort of friction welding at the bearing to input shaft.
I found I had to use a slide hammer to get my input bearing ( bush in my case) out and it needed A lot of impact rather than just a direct pull and was difficult to remove.
Sounds like the gear box may have to come out with the engine so you can get some proper leverage / impact to the problem location.
Let’s us know how you get on and interesting to see if others have had this issue before and how they over came it.
I spent a day last week removing one stubborn front disc from my Volvo XC60 and that was just rust between the disc and axle flange so amazing what can hold things together- I resorted to a 4lb sledgehammer from behind and it still took patience , soaking in diesel, chiselling the rust etc
Good luck
Graham
Having recently split the gearbox from engine insitu on my CRS it seems you have covered all bases regarding the likely cause of the problem( input shaft to bearing)
Barring a silly/ obscure problem like some unseen bell housing /starter motor/bolt or nut still being in place, or the engine steady damper causing interference , or there not being enough lateral distance to do the box/ engine split( unlikely given you could rig a front damper puller up).
It would appear that the input shaft to crank shaft bearing is the issue, but odd the engine can be turned over , or drive shaft rotated, which would suggest some sort of friction welding at the bearing to input shaft.
I found I had to use a slide hammer to get my input bearing ( bush in my case) out and it needed A lot of impact rather than just a direct pull and was difficult to remove.
Sounds like the gear box may have to come out with the engine so you can get some proper leverage / impact to the problem location.
Let’s us know how you get on and interesting to see if others have had this issue before and how they over came it.
I spent a day last week removing one stubborn front disc from my Volvo XC60 and that was just rust between the disc and axle flange so amazing what can hold things together- I resorted to a 4lb sledgehammer from behind and it still took patience , soaking in diesel, chiselling the rust etc
Good luck
Graham