Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Topics - AcecaRacer

Pages: 1 [2] 3
16
Fellow AC'ers
   
   I thought for the benefit of all, that I would write a brief (not really) report on my recent acquisition of a set of newly manufactured stub axle's purchased from Winchester Motorsport.  I know that several of you have recently bough them as well.
   
   A bit of background - BE603 is a race car, so all bets are off in terms of normal usage. After having sheared two sets of key's on my original channel and key configured axles, I was desperate to find a more reliable solution.  This known "Achilles heel" has vexed AC owners for decades and Nigel's offering looked to be a Godsend.
   
   Found on the inside back cover of each ACtion Magazine for the last few months, the Winchester Motorsport advert boasted "No more taper drive shaft failures! 1" 10-Spline conversion for Ace/Acea (sic). Call for details"
   
   Firstly, let me say that dealing with Nigel as a vendor was a pleasure.  Although he is quite the dinosaur in terms of technology - no email, no voice mail, when I did connect with him, he was a great chap to speak to.
   
   After discussing my current dilemma, Nigel assured me that he had what I needed to make my problem disappear.  So, betting on his British honor, I wired the better part of $2,000 to him for the privilege of having his cure to what ailed me.
   
   After about a week of shipping, they finally arrived and were eagerly unpacked.  At first glance, they looked fantastic.  All shiny and robust looking, along with those 10...no wait...8 splines(?) to drive the mighty 140 BHP Bristol power to the rear end.  All was right in the world.
   
   After a thorough inspection, these new axle's looked like they were just the thing to bring my Aceca back to life.  However, there were a few design flaws that were worth noting in terms of potential areas for failure as well as one area in particular that should definitely be redesigned.
   
   Fast forward to the installation.  Anyone who has worked on the rear end of an ACECA/Ace know it is not for the faint of heart. Clearances designed for elves and specialty tools for sure. I was assured that the new axle's would be a "direct replacement" for the original...How many times have we heard THAT?
   
   Well, damned if it wasn't true!  Although the swap out took the better part of a full day, it was indeed a straight swap out with minimal headache. True, getting the hub to fit right did take some heating etc., but the key thing is that I did not have to do any reshaping or modifications to get the parts to eventually fit.
   
   Now here is where it gets interesting.  Both axle's were put in and the bolts were assembled with Loctite and set at 80ft/lbs of torque for safe measure and off we went to the races.  The Rolex Monterey Motorsports Pre-Reunion.
   
   With her newly installed power transformers, the ACECA performed as expected and we completed 10 laps of practice at Laguna Seca with no incident. The rear end seemed to be firm and true and there were no noises or extraneous issues to deal with. Delight!
   
   The same results were delivered throughout the weekend with another practice session, a qualifying session and the the final race.  Well done!
   
   The following weekend came and I took BE603 out on the track for another practice session at Laguna Seca for the much anticipated Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion.  All went well and my times were looking better than the previous tune up sessions.
   
   My next practice session came the following day and out we went.  2 and a half laps in, after coming out of turn 4 and heading down the straight for turn 5 I shifted into 4th gear and the tach hit the rev limiter almost immediately!  I clutched in again and put the gearshift perfectly into place and ZOOM the revs spiked again.
   
   Was this deja vu?  Was it happening again?  How is it possible?  Those axles looked blood bullet proof!  I was furious.
   
   So, I limped off the track and was eventually towed back to the paddock.  My weekend was now shot to hell.  I put the car on jacks and while in gear was able to spin the left rear tire...busted stub axle - AGAIN!?[:(!]  Really unhappy.
   
   So, I decided to have a look.  After removing the knock-off of the left rear, I was shocked to find the bolt lying unattached inside.  Upon removal, I was able to look into the hub and see light on the other side. WTF?  The bolt had backed out and the shaft had pulled itself out!
   
   Now, at least I had something to work with.  The shaft had indeed not sheared, but just fallen out.  Unfortunately, due to the mechanical dynamic of a half shaft spinning freely inside the edges of a hug, the splines were now pranged up a bit and so was the inside of the hub.  Due to the tight tolerances, they would not go together for love nor money.
   
   After spending 90 minutes getting the shaft off, I hand filed the spline ends flat again and also did so with the hub.  Bingo...they went together.  Weekend saved!  Or was it?
   
   I reassembled the axle/stub combo this time with super duper Loctite (supposed to require a torch to release the glue)and I torqued to 100lbs. to be safe.  She sat overnight while I headed to the bar for an overdue bottle of tequila with my name on it.
   
   The next morning, the practice session was completed without incident and all was well.  I decided to pull the spinner to see if everything was tidy.  Unfortunately, it was far from it.  The bolt had broken the Loctite seal and had spun 6 FULL REVOLUTIONS!  Incredible!  We were well on our way to repeating what happened the prior weekend.  Not good.
   
   So, I re-glued and re-torqued the bolt AGAIN so that I could finish out the weekend.  After the morning qualifying session, I repeated the process yet again so that I could make sure that my axle was not going to drop again...or worse.  I also decided to check the right axle.  It had rotated 4 revolutions!  This was nuts...literally
   
   So, what does this ALL mean?  Due to a couple of design flaws, I feel that these axle's really must not be used for racing without some form of modification...which I am working on as we speak.  It is simply not tenable to re-torque your stub axle's after every 30 miles of hard driving.  It is insanity.
   
   The left axle should have had a reverse thread bolt to offset the natural loosening effects of the left hand rear wheel.  I am currently fabricating a fix that will hopefully stop this nonsense and make my investment worth while.
   
   Don't get me wrong, I do believe that these are indeed nice replacements for a standard road going car...maybe.  However, I still believe the mechanical forces are far too strong even in a mild driving condition to not naturally unscrew the left hand bolt.  I will defer to others who may have bought them for that purpose.
   
   In the end, the actual design is far superior to stock and will no doubt be 100% more reliable, but unless you want to re-tighten them after every short drive, you may want to be wary.
   
   Once I have completed the design of the bolt "keepers" I will try to post the pictures in hopes they may provide help to others.
   
   Sorry for the lonnnnnnggggg post. But I felt the background and true experience might be helpful.
   
   Cheers,
   Rob

17
Fellow race fans...
   
   I will have BE603 on the track at Laguna Seca this weekend for the Rolex Monterey Motorsports Pre-Reunion this weekend followed by the Reunion next weekend.
   
   I will be racing in Group 2 this weekend and then 4A next.
   
   Come on out to the track if you are in the area.  I will be pitting with the Virtuoso Performance Race Group.
   
   Hope to see you there!

18
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / "Period Correct" Racing Tyres
« on: June 05, 2012, 02:31:57 »
OK gang -
   
   New topic.  I have read all of the previous posts - very few - about tyres (english spelling) and tyre pressures.
   
   Here is the situation:
   I am currently running 5.5 x 15L Dunlop Racing Tyres
   I went to 15 inch from 16 to try to reduce the body/sidewall roll and improve handling.
   I vintage race in the Monterey Historic races among others and they are sticklers for authenticity about tyres from "the period".  Assuming that the UK vintage racing authorities are the true arbiter of what is correct running gear for a 1957 ACECA, what are better (and period correct) tyre options for me to race on?
   I have read about the Michelin "X" tyres as well as Avons.
   What are legal for me?  Do 15 inch handle better than 16?  What pressures are you finding work well front and rear?
   
   Sorry for the long message...
   
   Picture here - http://trackthoughts.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/042_M020204.jpg
   
   
   Cheers,
   Rob

19
Hi,
   
   I am looking to get feedback on whether or not it should be standard practice to adjust the valves after every race on a D2 motor.
   
   For racing, I will regularly go to 6000 RPM.  Average race length is about 20 minutes.  When done, the car always idles nicely and is shut down after a cool down period.  Is there any reason to believe that the valves should get out of adjustment?
   
   Just curious as my mechanic wants to check them after each race which seems expensive and unnecessary.
   
   Thanks all -
   Rob

20
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Rear stub axles for Ace or Aceca
« on: June 15, 2011, 01:49:49 »
Hi gang,
   
   Anyone know where I can source rear stub axles in the US for my Aceca?
   
   Just blew one up and need a replacement! [:(!]
   
   Preferably ones that have been improved from stock.  Is there a part cross reference?
   
   Also, has anyone upgraded their rears to cobra spec?  I have to believe those are much stronger.
   
   Thanks!
   Rob

21
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Overdrive blown up - Help please
« on: June 10, 2011, 20:03:29 »
I have just finished rebuilding my race motor and it has speced out at 144BHP.  I have a standard gearbox and overdrive.  In my first race last weekend, I found my gearbox starting to slip when under load, eventually becoming completely useless halfway through the race.
   
   I do not believe it is the clutch as the clutch is new and there was no smell at all.  My mechanic believes it is the OD.  I did not hear any sound, bang or anything when I eventually lost the ability to move forward.
   
   Prior to the rebuild, the OD was working fine with no sign of slipping.  However, I was running about 85 BHP at that time.
   
   So, my questions are these:...
   
   Has anyone else experienced this?  Do you think it is the OD?
   
   If it is the OD, can I just pull the OD off and put on the non-OD tail shaft with a shorter drive shaft and be done with it?
   
   Is there an OD designed to handle higher HP?  I don't need it for track racing, but I do need it for rally's and road racing.
   
   Any help would be appreciated!
   
   Cheers,
   Rob

22
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Bristol D2 Engine Colour
« on: May 04, 2011, 21:51:43 »
Can anyone please tell me the original colour/color on the Bristol D2 motor?
   
   Is it the same as Austin Healey?
   
   Thanks!
   Rob

23
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Engine - Serial numbers
« on: April 25, 2011, 06:27:41 »
Can anyone tell me where to find the engine serial number on a Bristol D2 engine if the brass placard is missing from the valve cover?  Also, pictures would be greatly appreciated.  They can be sent to bonanza55@yahoo.com
   
   Thank you!
   
   Rob

24
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Overdrive removal info
« on: January 16, 2011, 08:08:59 »
I race my ACECA and am rebuilding the engine.  The expected HP will be around 150.  I see no reason to keep my OD installed as I don't use it and it is very heavy.  Does anyone have any info on what to do to accomplish this?
   
   Thanks very much!
   
   Rob

25
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Aceca for sale in CA
« on: November 30, 2010, 07:24:46 »

26
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Need Zephyr engine info please
« on: October 28, 2010, 01:25:37 »
Fellow AC owners,
   
   I have a racing 57 Aceca with a Bristol D2 motor. I would like to pull the D2 out and replace it with a 2.6 Zephyr for more power in period.
   
   As I am located in the US (California) info is limited on locating one. Does anyone have any info on a US based provider? UK provider? Ease of parts access (or lack thereof).
   
   Any info on this topic would be greatly appreciated.
   
   Cheers,
   Rob

27
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Racing at Thunderhill this weekend
« on: October 28, 2010, 01:23:30 »
If anyone is in the area, I will be at the CSRG Season Finale with my ACECA.
   
   http://www.csrgracing.org/forms/CSRGOct10ThunderhillProgram.pdf
   
   Cheers - Rob

28
General Forum / Trying to locate info on Zephyr motors
« on: October 28, 2010, 00:54:30 »
Fellow AC owners,
   
   I have a racing 57 Aceca with a Bristol D2 motor.  I would like to pull the D2 out and replace it with a 2.6 Zephyr for more power in period.
   
   As I am located in the US (California) info is limited on locating one.  Does anyone have any info on a US based provider?  UK provider?  Ease of parts access (or lack thereof).
   
   Any info on this topic would be greatly appreciated.
   
   Cheers,
   Rob

29
General Forum / Aceca/Ace door latch
« on: September 16, 2010, 07:00:10 »
Can anyone tell me where I can get a door latch mechanism for my Aceca?  The door no longer stays latched when the outer handle is pulled on or the door is pushed from the inside.
   If I rotate the star shaped gear it will occasionally hold...less than ideal when racing.
   Any help would be greatly appreciated.
   Rob

30
Will be racing at the Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion AKA Rolex Monterey Historic Races this weekend.
   
   Raced in the Pre-Reunion last weekend.  New 15-inch wheels and Dunlop Racing tires made a big difference.  Finally have the Webers dialed in for max power.  Nice upgrade from the Solex'.
   
   http://http://www.mazdaraceway.com/pages/2010_Rolex_Monterey_Motorsports_Reunion
   Racing in Group 4B.
   
   Let me know if you are in town!
   Cheers,
   Rob

Pages: 1 [2] 3