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Messages - linklaw

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16
Austin Healey Frogeye Sprite? My car is not handy but I looked at a photo on ebay and it looks like an exact match. I believe Triumph tr3 uses the same lamp as does the early MG Midget.

17
Page 33 of the on line owner's manual has the wiring diagram. It is a little difficult to read but I recall printing it out a while ago and it was fairly legible.

18
I think there is a wiring diagram in the owner's manual. Here is a link to an owner's manual on line. http://rides.webshots.com/album/31597373CwUCdBYNFd

19
The head gaskets both look good, with no apparent failure that would allow oil into the cooling system. The front cover gasket is a different story. It is completely degraded and has apparently allowed oil to enter the coolant. There is no sign of coolant in the oil, however, and I wonder how oil under low pressure could be forced into the coolant, but no coolant would be forced into the oil. Has anyone had this situation happen?

20
Thanks guys,
   
   The engine is now out of the car and one of the heads is removed. My mechanic figured out the sequence to remove the headers from the front, reaching back along the footwell side. Once the header for the number one cylinder was removed, he was able to reach the rest of the bolts. Once the headers were removed, the engine was able to be slid forward and lifted straight out, without the transmission. Besides the head gaskets and spark plugs, I was thinking about replacing the clutch disc while the engine is out. The disc looks like it has alot of life left, but I figured I might as well replace it. Any thoughts? John
   PS. I will post some pics tomorrow or over the weekend.

21
Thanks Peter,
   
   My header bolts are angled toward the ground and there is not even 5 mm between the footwell sides and the header bolts. My engine is based on a 351 and the block is wider than yours as well. I spoke with a guy at Roush Racing who confirmed that the sequence for engine removal in my car is transmission, bell housing, back plate, slide the engine forward, remove the header bolts and then lift the engine out. i will post a picture of the room I have to reach the header bolts next week. You will see the problem I have.
   John

22
Thanks Peter,
   
   I would appreciate some photos if you have them. The bolts holding my headers on are too close to the footbox to get a wrench on them. My car was modified by Roush Racing and has some unusual features that are different from standard. Both my mechanic and I thought the engine could be pulled up to remove the headers, but the headers hit the frame and make this maneuver impossible. I will keep you posted.
   
   John

23
Here is a photo of my Roush engine number. I misspoke before when I said the number is on the bellhousing. It is on the top of the block between the bellhousing and the rear of the intake manifold. John
   

24
There should be a Roush engine number on the bell housing. Look to the rear of the intake manifold for a number like "40X000X". According to the guys at Roush, the first number gives the bore diameter, in the example above, it would be 4.0 inches. The second two numbers are the thousandths over that the engine is bored and the last numbers are the engine serial number. My engine was installed by Roush and I recently blew a head gasket. I got the above info from Roush while trying to identify my engine.

25
I owuld like to get some bonnet rubber grommets as well.

26
I have been using BF Goodrich G-Force Sport tires on my car for the last several years. I replaced the original Goodyear Gatorbacks with these tires and noticed a world of difference.  The Gatorbacks, while having a lot of tread left, were like glass to drive on. The BF Goodrich were one of the few matching front and rear sets of tires available at the time and were reasonably priced. John

27
My paint code is on a self adhesive label stuck in the engine compartment next to the number plate. All it says is "Mercedes Nautical Blue". I called the Mercedes dealer and got some touch up paint for a 1985 Mercedes in Nautical Blue and it matches. I have seen other cars with the same type ID label.

28
Jim, the rears should be the same as those used on a Peugeot 505 wagon. I will look in my folder at work to see if I have a part number from when I replaced mine. I think the fronts are from a BMW, but am not 100% sure. I will see if my friend replaced his and if so, will get you a part number.

29
Mark IV, the cold is no problem! A couple years ago, on New Years day, I had the car out for a 40 mile drive, top down, when it was 20 degrees F. I just won't take it out when the roads have been salted. If it's dry salt its not so bad, but when the salt is mixed with slushy snow, its a recipe for disaster. It gets all over the underside of the car and corrodes everything it touches. John

30
Thanks Peter and all others who responded. My car, AK1103, has the MKIII ball joints and my friend's car. 1299, has one of the later styles. I understand that the MKIII ball joints should be available from Kirkham in the USA and one of the other styles may be available from Gerry Hawkridge. In fact, the Saab ball joint may be correct for some of the cars. John

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