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Messages - Aceca289

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16
Is the same torque required for the original AC axel setup? I’m not replacing my axels with the new splined ones. I was looking for the typical specs for reinstalling an original AC hub and axel...and maintaining the tightness of the Pinnacle nut.

Thx

John

17
Indeed A.C. experienced the problem very early in Ace production and increased the size of the rear hub pinnacle nut as well as including the maintenance instruction to check tighten the pinnacle nut after the first 500 miles, again at 1000 miles and thereafter at every service

This is good information...I understand that the proper “set-up” of the rear hub with the standard keyed axel is important so the load is carried by the taper and not the key...so maintaining the tightness of the pinnacle nut sounds appropriate for good axel health. My axels were replaced fairly recently (mileage wise), so I’d like to follow these guidelines to possibly avoid future axel failures.  Can someone explain the proper “set-up” when installing the hub? Is there a specified torque to apply to the pinnacle nut? If so, I’d imagine it might be a minimum torque that one might have to exceed to advance the nut to the next castellation, in order to insert the cotter pin (split pin)??

Thanks in advance for any assistance regarding checking the pinnacle nut for tightness.

John

18
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: BE 646
« on: June 28, 2020, 00:01:38 »
Thanks David for taking the time to create the new INDEX on the first page of this thread! Give it up to the new guy! (See Peter’s post just prior to this post on page 22 of this thread for more info)

AND

Thank You Peter for all your hard work over the years to take and post all those pics. What a great resource for all us Aceca owners to have an INDEX to find pics and descriptions of your many years of hard work restoring your Aceca. It’s so great to be able to see under the skin of an Aceca to know what one might be getting into prior to embarking on the journey. Thanks to David, now we can scroll to the page with the pictures we want to find easier.

John
AEX521

19
I’m glad you found my post informative and that you plan to take the effort to revert back to the original design. It sounds like you’re serious about restoring this old Aceca back to how she originally looked. Be careful removing the rain gutter...you may still have one piece of the original rain gutter on the “A” pillar as there was a joint in the rain gutter on the “A” pillar as seen in these pics.

I would be interested in the specs on the high tech glue you plan to use to put in my files for a proper fix of my paint issues when I eventually get to painting my car again.

Yes - send me a PM and I can take some detailed measurements of the end of the rain gutter so you can get it dimensionally correct.

Best of luck,

John

20
There are two types of rain gutter systems on Aceca’s. The early type had an extra trim rail running above the gutter that appears to be wide enough to cover the slit shown in your pics. Based on the pics of when my father last had the car painted in 1990 (see pics below), it’s evident that the rain gutter was secured to the roof by a series screws spaced about 4” to 6” apart running the length of the gutter. The extra holes in your roof on either side of the slit appear to match up with the extents and alignment of the original gutter arrangement. Looking at the close up pic of the end of my gutter/rail it seems possible that it may have also been glued to the roof rather than welded (based on the lack of deformity of the rail that would have occurred if it was welded in place). This method of attaching the rain gutter may help explain for the bubbling paint I have running along the top edge of my rain gutter trim (see pic). If you look closely at the the bubbling, you can see what appears to be a strip of tape between the rail and the roof (apparently not the best method to close this gap - I’d like to know of a better method for when I go to paint my car again). I assume water got behind the rail and possibly into the wood during wet sanding resulting in the bubbling when the paint was drying/curing in the sun. Could this sort of issue with painting have led AC to change the style of the rain gutter in later cars?

It appears AC did away with the extra wide gutter/trim arrangement sometime in 1958 and went to a single gutter arrangement that wraps around the rear 1/4 window (see close up pic of AEX734 from a local AC owner). I approximated the changeover date based on a limited Google search of Aceca images using cars with verified chassis numbers. In this search, I discovered that at about chassis number AEX674 they did away with the old style rain gutter arrangement in favor of a single gutter. I assume they developed a better method of securing the roof without the wood. Possibly allowing them to weld the seam or wrap the roof skin around a tube of steel?? Perhaps others with later Aceca’s know how this was done. I think the repair your rebuilder is suggesting sounds reasonable. It may not be entirely correct for your year Aceca, but going back to the original system seems difficult. You should also evaluate your existing rain gutter closely, since it doesn’t appear to be OEM.
 
Side note:
The switch of rain gutter design by AC may have also been when they switched from the dropped (cloth) headliner on the early cars to the felt headliner that’s glued directly to the aluminum roof panel on later Aceca’s. This would make sense since they did away with the wood framing in the roof at that time.

There are a number of subtle differences in the construction of the earlier Aceca’s vs. the later ones. Just one of the things that makes owning these hand built cars more interesting. :)

Best Regards,

John
AEX521

21
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Ace Overriders
« on: September 13, 2018, 20:45:33 »
Barrie,

I’m glad that the picture of my car provides the proof necessary to validate that the early style over-riders were used on the Aceca (with bumpers) up through at least AEX521...most likely through AEX525, as you speculate. I’m still deciding whether to go back to the old style over-riders or not. It’s hard to make the decision, since the current look of my car (with the latter style over-riders) is the only way I’ve know my Aceca for the last 50 years of family ownership.

I know it’s hard to tell what bracket is used in the 1955 picture of my car, but I still believe it’s the same as the one used for the latter style bumper over-rider system (since the bumper sits further from the car than what would be allowed by the use of the old style ACE over-rider bracket). In either case...based on the picture you posted showing the backside of the old style over-rider, I think it would be fairly simple to mimic the tube bumper clamping mechanism used for the latter style over-riders by simply fabricating a steel bar to span the two bolts on the backside of the over-rider and then weld a threaded stud to the bar at the midpoint of the cutaway in the over-rider. This would allow any Aceca owner with the latter style bumper/over-rider arrangement to simply swap out over-riders with no difficulty. I’ve attached a picture of the latter style over-rider and clamping mechanism for the tubular bumper so people can see what I’m talking about.

I hope this helps secure more orders to make your project viable.  :)

Regards,

John

22
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Ace Overriders
« on: September 11, 2018, 04:46:42 »
I’ve attached a photo of AEX521 (ex works August 27, 1955) as she arrived at the Port of Chicago in October of 1955. (btw - The photo is a press photo, and the man taking delivery of the car from the ship captain is Charles E King the first owner of my car...who also became a distributor of AC cars in Chicago)  As you can see, it appears that my car was delivered with the old style over-riders (which are no longer with the car)...and dual tube bumpers.  FYI - Zooming into the photo you will see that the outline of the over-riders look a bit fuzzy on one side. This is because the original press photo has been touched up with some sort of marker presumably to wipe out reflective glare from the flash photography off of the chrome bumper.

If you go to the following link, you will see photos (dated Oct 1955) of an Aceca at Thames Ditton with the later style over-riders.
   http://www.johnrossmotorracingarchive.co.uk/index.php?twg_album=AC+Cars&twg_show=RB+336+-+AC+Factory+-+October+1955.jpg&twg_standalone=true#0

These two bits of information fit well to bookend the possible switchover date of September 1955 for the over-riders, as suggested by Barrie.

Another interesting thing to note is a comparison of the photo of my Aceca (AEX521) with Luke’s Aceca (AE503). It appears AE503 has a single tube bumper (vs. the dual tube bumpers on my car) and utilizes a different bracket than my car. It also appears that the over-riders on my car are held on by a bracket with a single bolt (not two like on the ACE). From what I can see of the bracket in the photo, it appears to be the same one that is currently supporting my bumper with the later style single bolt over-riders. Is it possible that there was a sub-bracket to transition from the two bolt connection to a single bolt, or maybe a sub-bracket (not visible in the picture) that went around the tubes to attach to the two bolt arrangement?   

I hope this information helps to decipher the development of the over-rider/bumper arrangement on the Aceca.

Regards, John

23
Hi Jeff,
   
   I have a PDF copy of a 1965 ACOC parts interchange list that I can send you. It will help you ID other cars that used many of the same parts in period allowing you to go to Moss or other British parts suppliers. Send me an e-mail and I'll get you a copy. Aceca289 at aol.com
   
   John

24
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Aceca for sale
« on: February 21, 2015, 06:28:28 »
And here's what the car looked like before the restoration.
   
   http://bringatrailer.com/2013/03/12/1955-ac-aceca-project/

25
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Aceca. How many keys?
« on: November 27, 2014, 06:33:41 »
Ignacio,
   
   Is the key that fits into your door (but won't open it) heavily worn? My original Wilmot Breeden key marked...you guessed it...FA 501 is so worn it sometimes doesn't work on the door and the rear hatch without a lot of fussing around. In fact, I cant get it to open the rear hatch at all any more. Luckily my father made a duplicate back in the late 60's which operates the door and rear hatch with no problem.
   
   This begs the question to everyone: Where do I go to find blanks for the original Wilmont Breeden keys?
   
   John

26
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Aceca. How many keys?
« on: November 26, 2014, 07:28:06 »
Ignacio,
   All the locks on my Aceca (AEX521) are all keyed the same. My ignition key has FA 501 written on the face of the lock. I had the rear hatch lock apart the other day and recall that the the back side was marked 501 as well.
   
   I hope this helps.
   
   John

27
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / History of AEX542
« on: October 17, 2013, 07:39:39 »
Hi Austin,
   
   Interesting story...thanks for sharing the details. The stories behind our cars is a great part of what makes the collector car hobby so enjoyable.
   
   PS  - Good choice on the color you used to paint your engine block. Black was the standard color for Ford V8s in the early 60s...you probably did the research before painting...if not, you lucked out.
   
   John

28
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / History of AEX542
« on: October 15, 2013, 08:00:40 »
Austin,
   
   How many of the interior bits did you get in the deal? If I recall correctly from the e-bay listing, there didn't appear to be a lot to work with.
   
   John

29
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Rear screen trim
« on: October 12, 2013, 18:11:34 »
Hi Lew,
   
   Chrome wasn't used to fill this gap. A clear plastic 1/2 round section was used that is filled with a chrome colored substance. I assume this material is still available somewhere in the UK. It's the same material that is used on the front windshield. Ron Leonard (USA) or Brian Eacott (UK) would probably be able to source it for you.
   
   John

30
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Aceca Tool Tray Queries
« on: October 12, 2013, 17:45:02 »
Hi Lew,
   
   You'll find the "search" button at the top of this page under the "AC Owners Club" banner. Hidden in plain sight. [:D] Happy searching...it's a great way to quickly access old posts.
   
   John

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