Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - Aceca289

Pages: 1 ... 6 7 [8] 9
106
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Inserting glass rubbers
« on: September 18, 2008, 21:34:00 »
You might want to seek professional help with replacing the front and rear windshield rubber. There was another post regarding replacing the rear window and I recall the person having a windshield glass repair service do the work with great satisfaction and at a reasonable expense.  You might even be able to get a mobile service to come to you. As for the rear quarters and front windwings I would recommend calling Ron Leonard (Sport and GT Motoring 970-259-0108 , Colorado, USA). Ron has been involved with AC’s since the 50’s and sells the rubber parts you mentioned.  He is also restoring an Aceca of his own right now. Ask him for a current parts list as he may be able to supply you with some additional parts for your restoration project.
   
   I would appreciate it if you post or send me an e-mail (aceca289 at aol dot com) with the results of what you discover, as I have the same task ahead of me when I get the opportunity to do the work. I would also be interested in how you end up getting the old hardened rubber out as mine is as hard as nails!
   
   Best of luck,
   
   John

107
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / AEX125 finally finished
« on: August 26, 2008, 21:53:38 »
Jay:
   
   It looks like you really have a major project ahead of you with AEX1078! You may want to contact Hawk cars as they make an AC Ace replica and should be able to help with restoring the front and rear bodywork to original Ace specs…and maybe some other parts. I believe there are also other people in the UK with the wooden bucks to bang out the body pieces for you as well.
   
   As for the power plant I am partial to the original AC engine (it is truly a beautiful engine to see under the hood). The Zephyr 2.6 would also be a good choice and likely easier to obtain as mentioned by others. FYI – In case you didn’t know, the Volvo Amazon Keith refers to is known as the Volvo 120 series in the US and used transmissions should be readily available as there are many old Volvos around (especially in California). Volvo also had an overdrive unit available that mates to this transmission. I know because the Volvo 122S that I learned to drive on had an OD unit. These transmissions can also take a lot of abuse as I can personally attest.
   
   Good Luck,
   
   John

108
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / AEX125 finally finished
« on: August 22, 2008, 22:21:51 »
quote:
Originally posted by nikbj68
   
Congratulations, Jay!!! IT`s fantastic to see the results of all your hard work, and I really like the fact that you didn`t 'restore out' the alterations that make 125 unique.
   I hope you`ll take a little time out to actually drive it!
   Of course, we all look forward to seeing the progress on 1078 over the next 8 years!!!
   
   

   
   Jay
   
   Great restoration! I too like the fact that you did not restore out the modifications that make your car unique. All cars have a history that goes along with them and I believe it is valuable to retain that history when appropriate. I have an Aceca 289 conversion and decided to do a partial restoration to restore it to how it looked in 1963 when the conversion was done instead of dismantling the history to bring it back to original specs. This will also save lots of $’s and time…
   
   Was the original rear end of your car replaced with splined axels (ala Cobra) or are you having to baby foot the gas to avoid breaking rear axels? I still have the original rear end and axels, although I changed out the ratio from the 3.9:1 to 3.64:1 which should improve the situation.
   
   Hope you get out and enjoy your ride on the open road!
   
   John

109
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Ace workshop manual needed
« on: June 27, 2008, 21:55:24 »
I am happy to make this owners manual available.  Not a problem, since we have a copy machine at work that turns paper into PDF as fast you can feed it in.  It would be nice if there was a way to post PDF files to this forum similar to posting photos. I understand the security issue with posting files…however PDF files should be safe.  I didn’t know the ACOC reproduced owner’s manuals for club members.
   
   Robin / Roy:
   
   I tried sending you both e-mails using the link in the members section. It seems that system is not working. Robin - I found your e-mail address through your website. Roy - If you don’t want to make your e-mail public you can send me an e-mail via one of the other members who requested a copy of the manual and I will send one off to you.
   
   John

110
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Ace workshop manual needed
« on: June 25, 2008, 17:28:04 »
quote:
Originally posted by bex316
   
Just for my clarification: are we talking here about a proper workshop manual, not the owners instruction manual?
   In case the answer is YES I would also be interested in a PDF copy. yd31810 at yahoo dot com
   
   Jerry
   
   

   
   Wow, I guess I generated a bit of interest. I believe my manual is the normal owner’s manual and not a full workshop manual. I have not had the opportunity to review another owner’s manual to compare. It measures 6” X 9” and has 62 pages; however, it differs from owner’s manuals I have seen on-line since it is leather bound. I believe the full shop manual is printed in a larger format. The forward states “This book was written with the object of enabling the owner to maintain his car in perfect condition throughout its life”. It does have sections entitled “How to fit a new timing chain” and “Removing Cylinder Sleeves, Pistons, Etc.” which is certainly more detail than what is included in modern owner’s manuals.
   
   Does this sound like a normal owner’s manual?
   
   John

111
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Ace workshop manual needed
« on: June 24, 2008, 17:15:05 »
Keith:
   
   I will make PDF’s and try to send them out in the next day or two. I spiral bound my copy and it works well as a shop copy (no worries about getting the original copy greasy). My manual is for an early AC engine car so it won't help as much for the Bristol powered AC's. If anyone else wants a copy let me know.
   
   Mark:
   
   I don’t know if this old of a manual would be of much use for your AC (MA 200) since is a unique automobile. Your best bet may be to talk to Ron Leonard as he is a warehouse of information and may be able to help identify the source of some of the components used on your car and point you in the right direction. He could at least supply you with wiring diagrams for AC’s around the vintage of your prototype.
   
   Best of luck,
   
   John

112
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Ace workshop manual needed
« on: June 24, 2008, 05:21:00 »
You might want to try Ron Leonard in Colorado (970-259-0108). He shows reproductions of AC Ace and Aceca manuals in his latest parts list, although many items on his parts list are no longer available. Worth a try! I have also seen AC shop manuals on e-bay (both original and copies).
   
   I have an original leather bound 1956 AC Ace – Aceca manual that I have copied and enlarged to 8-1/2 X 11 (easier on the eyes). If you want a copy let me know and I can e-mail you a PDF copy.
   
   John

113
428 Frua Forum / SS Headers for 1963 hipo 289
« on: May 11, 2008, 07:06:27 »
I took a look at the latest pictures you posted of the repairs to your 428 Frua. Yuk, what a mess before the repairs! I have some sense of what you went through as my Aceca had some large clunks and rattles coming from the rear end before the restoration work began. During the rebuilding of the rear suspension many of the space member pieces holding the bodywork were discovered to be corroded out so they were cut out and new ones fabricated and replaced. I should have a more quiet ride when it is back on the road.
   
   As for converting to rack and pinion…my father took care of that in the late 60’s or early 70’s.
   
   John

114
428 Frua Forum / SS Headers for 1963 hipo 289
« on: May 10, 2008, 18:03:55 »
Emmanuel,
   
   Thanks for your opinions on ceramic coatings and noise issues. Since I have already located a pair of SS headers that should work without modifications, I am toying with the idea of having just the inside of the SS headers coated to reduce radiant heat issues. I e-mailed a ceramic coating company and they said that this can be done. The possibilities are truly endless.
   
   As for the noise/sound, I believe the overall design of the system (pipe diameter, type of mufflers…) would likely have more effective than the pipe materials. I am thinking about a low profile pair of spin tech performance mufflers http://www.spintechmufflers.com/spintech/spintechindex.asp under the seats and a pair of glass-packs at the rear. My mechanic says to try an exhaust system without the mufflers and only the glass-packs first. However, I am concerned about how loud it may be without the mufflers.
   
   I looked at the thread for your AC Frua restoration. Wow! You had some real repair work to do. I am sure you will rest happier when your project is complete.
   
   John

115
428 Frua Forum / SS Headers for 1963 hipo 289
« on: May 09, 2008, 17:48:12 »
quote:
Originally posted by nikbj68
   
Best of both worlds? Is there anything against wrapping ceramic coated headers for the 'period' look you were after?
   Then again according to Zircotec..."The Zircotec high temperature coating process is particularly popular for vintage and classic racing cars as well as high-performance classic road cars as it brings all the benefits enjoyed by the professional motorsport industry, yet with a range of thermal barrier finishes that deliver a durable period look."
   And for Classic Racing Cars "...Our standard white finish perfectly and safely replicates the original asbestos heat barrier coating used by many formula and sports GT racing cars including AC, Aston Martin, Chevrolet, Lola, Porsche, Ferrari, Maserati, Jaguar, Lotus and MG..."
   
   [8D]
   

   
   Interesting concept to wrap a ceramic coated header. Talk about reducing radiant heat issues. One should be able to hold onto those headers when running and not let go! Thanks for the input…lots of ideas to consider. I will try to look at some of the coating finishes in person before deciding.
   
   I got a price on the Bellanger type (shorty) headers made for cobra 289's in stainless steel. They will cost $700 +tax. Not too bad.
   
   One other item to consider is that SS headers are said to be quieter than typical carbon steel headers which can sound bright. Does anyone know if ceramic coating headers will make them run quieter like stainless steel?  I could even have the stainless steel headers ceramic coated. Options galore!

116
428 Frua Forum / SS Headers for 1963 hipo 289
« on: May 08, 2008, 04:15:44 »
Emmanuel
   
   I agree that ceramic coated headers should work well and reduce the radiant heat issues. I am mainly concerned about the appearance of the headers. I don’t want the exhaust system to stand out as modern looking as it is my intent to restore the engine bay to a 1963 vintage look. I understand that ceramic coatings come in a chrome like finish and black (maybe more). I have seen the chrome like finish and am not fond of it. Any comments on the black finish? Is it flat black, greyish black, semi glossy black?? Do they stand out as looking out of place with respect to the vintage of the engine? Does anyone else have any opinions?
   
   My initial thought on replacing the headers and exhaust system was to go with ceramic coated headers since heat transfer into the cockpit is a problem. However, the mechanic working on my Aceca had installed a space age thermal blanket under the carpet in a 428 Frua coupe and achieved noticeable reduction in cockpit temperatures with that solution alone.
   
   If I can get a better idea on the appearance of the ceramic coatings, I may consider them more seriously. In the end, stainless steel headers / exhaust have a very appealing look and are virtually bullet proof albeit they may be more expensive.
   
   John
   
   PS – I saw your 428 Frua in the “How many 428 Frua left” thread. Nice looking car! FYI -The 428 Frua I mentioned above is located in the San Francisco Bay Area (I saw it once at my mechanics shop – Silver paint...I recall – no info on the chassis number)

117
428 Frua Forum / SS Headers for 1963 hipo 289
« on: May 06, 2008, 17:18:14 »
quote:
Originally posted by Emmanueld
   
Why SS headers? You can make them in mild steel and have them ceramic coated inside out which will reduce under-hood heat as well. On my 428,  because of the lack of room on the side, I bought a pair of Sanderson shorties and had them modified by a pro. Total cost with the ceramic around $1400. Easy!
   
   Emmanuel
   

   
   I have looked into ceramic coated headers and the jury is still not quite in on the subject. I do need to reduce under-hood heat. In my research, I found that carbon steel conducts about 220% more heat per foot than stainless steel, making stainless a superior choice over carbon steel. It is hard to find an unbiased opinion about how stainless steel compares to ceramic coated carbon steel with respect to heat transfer.  I also understand that ceramic coating is dependent on the quality of the application. Poor quality application or cracks and chips in the coating can expose the mild steel to corrosion. Radiant heat is another concern which makes ceramic coating look inviting. I plan on resolving the radiant heat issue by having the car re carpeted with a space age thermal blanket under the carpet. I may also take additional measures such as wrapping the headers.
   
   Even though my Aceca does not have the original engine, it does have a well documented history of a (costly) vintage engine replacement. It is my intent to restore the engine compartment to what it looked like (or could have looked like) in 1963 when the hipo 289 was installed. Along those lines, I would like to keep with materials and methods that were available in 1963 (such as stainless steel and wrapping of headers). Although, I will try to locate a ceramic coated header to see what the outward appearance looks like before making a final decision.
   
   John

118
428 Frua Forum / SS Headers for 1963 hipo 289
« on: May 02, 2008, 21:33:02 »
quote:
Originally posted by ak1234
   
Why not buy a set of shorty headers ...they are plentyful and cheap.  unless this is a restoration ..then COOKS can make them for you.
   
   Ron
   

   
   I am pursuing a lead on a shorty type header that was supposedly used by Shelby in the original 289 Cobras. The owner of CSX3018 had a pair of these SS headers put on his car and the configuration looks like it will work with the Aceca (provided the foot-wells do not differ too much from the Cobra). I was told that they are an exact replica of the headers that Shelby used and were referred to as “Bolanger (sp?) Nassau Headers”. Does anyone know anything about this reference to Bolanger headers?
   
   John

119
428 Frua Forum / SS Headers for 1963 hipo 289
« on: May 02, 2008, 17:46:40 »
quote:
Originally posted by msgsobe
   
here's the link to bob mannel's book: http://www.fordsmallblock.com/
   

   
   Thanks! I ordered a copy last night. It looks like a very comprehensive book.
   
   John

120
428 Frua Forum / SS Headers for 1963 hipo 289
« on: May 01, 2008, 17:35:13 »
I am 99.999% sure that my engine is a 1963 hipo 289.  My father purchased the car in 1968 from the person who had the engine installed.  I have a file folder of original paperwork and receipts which adds interest to the car. For example, the work was performed in the summer of 1963 with the engine costing $791.20 brand new from Ford and the Borg Warner T10 transmission was $337.00.  I even have the phone records showing $32.66 in phone calls to Shelby’s shop in Venice, California. The whole engine swap cost $5,181.93 and with additional misc work on the car the job totaled $6,212.34. To put it in perspective you could buy a brand new Cobra for the same amount of money in 1963.
   
   Thanks for the tip on the book by Bob Mannel about small block fords. I will see if I can locate a copy.  I asked the guy who is working on the restoration to look up the numbers on my engine block anyways, and I will let you know when I receive the information. It may take a while as he is involved with vintage racing and has some races coming up soon.  Do you know if there are any differences on the early hipo 289s vs. the later ones with respect to the exhaust manifold flanges mounts?  I am working on a lead (obtained from a phone call to Kirkham Motorsports) on some SS headers and this information would be helpful. I will try to reach Bob Mannel also to see if he can answer this question.
   
   Thanks,
   
   John

Pages: 1 ... 6 7 [8] 9