16
Mk IV, Superblower, CRS and other Continuation Cars Forum / Re: SAAC Registry AC MKIV and variations of...
« on: April 20, 2023, 07:12:56 »
Jeff, thanks for your support, can’t wait to see the registry in real life!
News:
SMF - installed December 2017.
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17
Mk IV, Superblower, CRS and other Continuation Cars Forum / Re: SAAC Registry AC MKIV and variations of...
« on: April 09, 2023, 18:46:45 »
Jeff, I sent you an mail using the details you provided, asking for the payment details but did not receive any feedback.
How to get in contact?
How to get in contact?
18
Mk IV, Superblower, CRS and other Continuation Cars Forum / Re: Removal of nudge bars
« on: March 21, 2023, 19:58:39 »
Don‘t forget to apply some detergent between damper and the Plastik piping in the body. That will help to avoid bended body openings.
Too much friction between piping and damper can cause body deformation during disassembly and assembly.
Too much friction between piping and damper can cause body deformation during disassembly and assembly.
19
Mk IV, Superblower, CRS and other Continuation Cars Forum / Re: Removal of nudge bars
« on: March 20, 2023, 13:47:16 »
Lh the threaded rod cross through the frame and damper is covered by the inner fender, you can just barely see the lower perimeter of the nut.
Rh it is visible and accessible.
The order of parts from outside to inside:
Outside the frame tube, in inner fender
-self locking poly nut, sometimes behind inner fender
-locking ring
-washer
between frame tube and radiator shroud / shield
-washer
-locking ring
-nut
- space between nuts giving the correct orientation of the radiator shroud (measure and note for reassembly)
-nut
-locking ring
-washer
- radiator shroud lh or rh
inside the nose:
-big body washer
-locking ring
-nut
-washer
-air splitter stay
-washer
-locking ring
-nut
Rh it is visible and accessible.
The order of parts from outside to inside:
Outside the frame tube, in inner fender
-self locking poly nut, sometimes behind inner fender
-locking ring
-washer
between frame tube and radiator shroud / shield
-washer
-locking ring
-nut
- space between nuts giving the correct orientation of the radiator shroud (measure and note for reassembly)
-nut
-locking ring
-washer
- radiator shroud lh or rh
inside the nose:
-big body washer
-locking ring
-nut
-washer
-air splitter stay
-washer
-locking ring
-nut
20
Mk IV, Superblower, CRS and other Continuation Cars Forum / Re: Removal of nudge bars
« on: March 20, 2023, 11:06:59 »
The middle picture shows how the absorber looks normally but without the new cross drilled rear attachment hole for the 40mm rearward position.
Also the blocking rod is normally not existing.
In that area the damper is empty no poly gel packing or funktion.
To block the damping function I drilled a hole into the poly gel chamber, cut M12 thread into and inserted a threaded rod.
Also the blocking rod is normally not existing.
In that area the damper is empty no poly gel packing or funktion.
To block the damping function I drilled a hole into the poly gel chamber, cut M12 thread into and inserted a threaded rod.
21
Mk IV, Superblower, CRS and other Continuation Cars Forum / Re: Removal of nudge bars
« on: March 20, 2023, 10:50:10 »
Nudge bars are fixed to the energy absorber by 2 studs and 2 cap nuts. The nuts are visible if you look behind the overriders.
Loose both nut and bolt on each side but don't remove completely
Remove the lower nut and bolt on both side.
Remove the upper nut and bolt on each side, 4 hands are nice to have.
Remove the nudge bar with overriders from the absorbers.
Beside the car you may remove the overriders from the nudge bar, they are tilted over the nudge bar bracket.
To remove the absorbers you may need to loose or remove the inner fender and lower fiber glas cover below the radiator if you can't have access to the threaded rod and nut fixing the damper in the front frame tube..
Sometimes you will the cut outs at the covers giving access to the nut, sometimes the cut outs are out of position and the nut is hidden.
Remove the air splitter from the radiator opening, one self tapping screw inside the left and right edge of the splitter, screwed to the body (i need always 1- 2 beers not to drive me gracy because of the position and accessibility).
With the air splitter removed you need to remove the nuts mounted from the inside of the radiator shields left and right.
Remove the radiator shields left and right, take care of the horn and compressor attached to the left one.
Now remove the two nuts from the bolt on each side and remove the bolt to the outside of the car.
Notice the order of all nuts, washers and lock rings.
Now you need to grip the front end of the damper (maybe with some bracket or lever screwed to the front plate) and turn it left /right during you pull it out to the front.
That needs some force because the damper is taped to avoid rattle inside the tube and it will sit very tight after the years. Maybe some lubrication sprayed in / on will help.
That's it, did it 3 times.
Last time, 3 weeks before, was to reposition the damper more backward for a better look. Now it is 40mm more backward, looking doesn't it?
Now my nudge bar front is closer to the body and the telescopic function is blocked by drilling the damper and insertion of a M12 mm threaded stainless steel rod.
Loose both nut and bolt on each side but don't remove completely
Remove the lower nut and bolt on both side.
Remove the upper nut and bolt on each side, 4 hands are nice to have.
Remove the nudge bar with overriders from the absorbers.
Beside the car you may remove the overriders from the nudge bar, they are tilted over the nudge bar bracket.
To remove the absorbers you may need to loose or remove the inner fender and lower fiber glas cover below the radiator if you can't have access to the threaded rod and nut fixing the damper in the front frame tube..
Sometimes you will the cut outs at the covers giving access to the nut, sometimes the cut outs are out of position and the nut is hidden.
Remove the air splitter from the radiator opening, one self tapping screw inside the left and right edge of the splitter, screwed to the body (i need always 1- 2 beers not to drive me gracy because of the position and accessibility).
With the air splitter removed you need to remove the nuts mounted from the inside of the radiator shields left and right.
Remove the radiator shields left and right, take care of the horn and compressor attached to the left one.
Now remove the two nuts from the bolt on each side and remove the bolt to the outside of the car.
Notice the order of all nuts, washers and lock rings.
Now you need to grip the front end of the damper (maybe with some bracket or lever screwed to the front plate) and turn it left /right during you pull it out to the front.
That needs some force because the damper is taped to avoid rattle inside the tube and it will sit very tight after the years. Maybe some lubrication sprayed in / on will help.
That's it, did it 3 times.
Last time, 3 weeks before, was to reposition the damper more backward for a better look. Now it is 40mm more backward, looking doesn't it?
Now my nudge bar front is closer to the body and the telescopic function is blocked by drilling the damper and insertion of a M12 mm threaded stainless steel rod.
22
Mk IV, Superblower, CRS and other Continuation Cars Forum / Re: small a c bonnet and boot badges
« on: February 13, 2023, 18:29:43 »
AC Heritage or Redline would be my first try.
I think the badges are also used on the ME 3000 door, if they are also used on the AC 428 grill and C-pillar area must be checked. At least the 428 badges look the same.
I think the badges are also used on the ME 3000 door, if they are also used on the AC 428 grill and C-pillar area must be checked. At least the 428 badges look the same.
23
Mk IV, Superblower, CRS and other Continuation Cars Forum / Re: What does AK 2002 mean?
« on: February 13, 2023, 18:23:20 »
No idea?
24
Mk IV, Superblower, CRS and other Continuation Cars Forum / What does AK 2002 mean?
« on: February 01, 2023, 11:31:19 »
Hello,
can someone shed some light on the AK2000 - AK2003 suffixes? What does the 2 mean?
Thanks, Uwe
can someone shed some light on the AK2000 - AK2003 suffixes? What does the 2 mean?
Thanks, Uwe
25
Mk IV, Superblower, CRS and other Continuation Cars Forum / Re: MK IV tie rods needed
« on: December 05, 2022, 17:55:08 »
In the meantime I received 2 pairs of tie rods from Moss in the US.
Wear startet a long time ago with cracks in the rubber boots and water and sand coming in. That created some wear on the rod ball and collar. My car was not serviced that well before I bought it.
The former owner told me that he did some fun races at sandy beaches…I removed a lot sand between inside body and frame.
Some used but in good condition parts from MGB racks found their way to my spare parts shelfs as well.
Wear startet a long time ago with cracks in the rubber boots and water and sand coming in. That created some wear on the rod ball and collar. My car was not serviced that well before I bought it.
The former owner told me that he did some fun races at sandy beaches…I removed a lot sand between inside body and frame.
Some used but in good condition parts from MGB racks found their way to my spare parts shelfs as well.
26
Mk IV, Superblower, CRS and other Continuation Cars Forum / MK IV tie rods needed
« on: September 07, 2022, 12:27:00 »
After TÜV inspection 2 weeks before i needed to replace my tie rods or inner tie rods, the descriptions sometimes are different but it is that part at Moss:
https://mossmotors.com/tie-rod-1
Best would be a tie rod assembly ( #3 in the link below) or just the single parts like the rod, the ball housing, ball housing locking nut and the seat.
I tried to find MGB spares for the listed parts above but had no luck to locate new spares here in Germany.
Does anyone have a good source for the MGB parts I need urgently?
I replaced the worn tie rods with used original parts but want to rework the steering rack during next winter.
Thanks, Uwe
Link with steering rack parts:
https://mossmotors.com/mgb/suspension-steering/steering/steering-rack-and-components
PS: It is not possible to buy a "new" rack and use the inner parts for an original MGB rack rework. The external interfaces will fit inside a MGB but all the internals are completely different and from lower quality. Ask me how i know..
https://mossmotors.com/tie-rod-1
Best would be a tie rod assembly ( #3 in the link below) or just the single parts like the rod, the ball housing, ball housing locking nut and the seat.
I tried to find MGB spares for the listed parts above but had no luck to locate new spares here in Germany.
Does anyone have a good source for the MGB parts I need urgently?
I replaced the worn tie rods with used original parts but want to rework the steering rack during next winter.
Thanks, Uwe
Link with steering rack parts:
https://mossmotors.com/mgb/suspension-steering/steering/steering-rack-and-components
PS: It is not possible to buy a "new" rack and use the inner parts for an original MGB rack rework. The external interfaces will fit inside a MGB but all the internals are completely different and from lower quality. Ask me how i know..
27
Mk IV, Superblower, CRS and other Continuation Cars Forum / Re: MkIV Wiring Diagram
« on: September 07, 2022, 11:30:08 »Heres another sending in 2 parts - this is part 1
Not sure what cars this is for.
M
This is for an EFI car
28
Mk IV, Superblower, CRS and other Continuation Cars Forum / Re: MKIV steering shaft grommet
« on: August 04, 2022, 10:55:18 »
Depends on what steering column is mounted, can you post a picture from the old bearing or grommet?
29
Mk IV, Superblower, CRS and other Continuation Cars Forum / Re: MKIV brake mastercylinder access
« on: July 13, 2022, 06:53:35 »
You need to remove the side vent, it is screwed on top and bottom (1 nut and bolt up and down) to an angled metal bracket welded to the fender inner surface.
Then you have access to the master cylinder, together with the removed access door in the wheel well it should be possible to remove the master cylinder.
It sounds like your car has no removable access door in the front wheel well.
In this case you need to loosen the wheel well by the screw clamps and bend it carefully away from the frame if access through the side vent is not enough for you, it is flexible.
Then you have access to the master cylinder, together with the removed access door in the wheel well it should be possible to remove the master cylinder.
It sounds like your car has no removable access door in the front wheel well.
In this case you need to loosen the wheel well by the screw clamps and bend it carefully away from the frame if access through the side vent is not enough for you, it is flexible.
30
Mk IV, Superblower, CRS and other Continuation Cars Forum / Re: Starter sylenoid mkiv
« on: July 12, 2022, 22:33:07 »
AK 1106 also has the solenoid in the footbox electric compartment.