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Messages - Max Allan

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61
Ace 'Brooklands' Forum / A couple of questions
« on: June 07, 2012, 19:01:39 »
The replacement belt AC supplied me (before their demise) was too long resulting in an irritating knocking as the tensioner repeatedly hit the travel stop. So I took my own measurement  and ordered a 96 inch (2440 mm) belt from Goodyear #4060960, which, to my relief, proved spot one.[:)]

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Not received anything Pat. Assummed you no longer wanted diagram plus other info.

63
Pat – I have the wiring diagram here waiting to send, but I’ve not received the email from you with your postal address, even though I sent you an email via the forum with my new address. If you still want the diagram please send your postal address to: maxwellbryn@hotmail.co.uk
   Max

64
Sorry Patrick – I didn’t mean to appear patronising, but the majority of folk don’t seem have much idea how to go about nursing defunct mechanics back to life.
   
   In the light of your problems I tried the hood on my own car yesterday for the first time in many months – low and behold it didn’t work.[:0] Only when I raised the cover manually did it function albeit in rather erratic manner. (It is certainly true the hood should only be operated using a fully charged battery or with the engine running, otherwise it’s liable to tying itself in knots. However, In my case, operating the hood with engine running I didn’t hear the hydraulics continue straining to close the cover when already closed until a “bang” when couple of hinge screws pull out of the cover.[:(!]) However, operating the lift switch I did notice a “click” each time from behind the dash, so suspect there’s another relay lurking in there somewhere controlling hood electrics. But it is difficult to advise where to look next without the wiring diagram. I’ve been promised a replacement for the CD I lent out (never returned), but wait with baited breath for it’s arrival! In the meantime, shame no one has sketched the wiring diagram and posted it on the forum.
   
   Regards voltages at fuses, I read 12v both ends of 5 amp fuse, which is a bit of a nonsense, so am inclined to disregard the discrepancy you observed. If it’s of any help, later in the week I’ll get someone to flick the operating switch while I attempt and identify which wire from switch connects to which terminal on which relay in boot. If you can eliminate the switch as culprit it will save pulling the dash out unnecessarily, although I’d be interested to know myself how it’s held in. (Intending to dump the auto box currently fitted, I imported a 6-speed Tremac, but have been partially put off fitting it, by the prospect of removing the dash to get at gear select mechanism.)
   
   Over enthusiastic heater – luck you! Whether hot air or air con cold - never get much of either out of mine.

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Patrick - it can get difficult trying to explain things you can try, so sent you an email with my number. One option is to try parially lifting hood manually and seeing if hydraulics then work.

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As a point of interest, the red light that comes on when hood is in operation is not indicator of voltage to the circuit, but indicates the pressure release solenoid is energised closed and hydraulic system pressurised. The solenoid is de-energised  by micro switch attached to hood cover latching mechanism (circuit is earthed when latch locks closed). Solenoid is also de-energised when ignition is switched off.
   
   The micro switch has two sets of contacts. When the rocker switch is set to raise hood (pushed in at the top) electric actuator releases hood cover latch and m/s changes solenoid circuit from”earth”connection to “open” circuit thus closing solenoid valve and permitting pump to pressurise system. At the same time, the second pair of m/s contacts close completing a second circuit to earth. This circuit energises the relay that sets in motion the “lift” operation.
   
   Hope this makes some kind of sense to those interested.

67
As there are other copies of the CD in circulation (including mine because my partner assures me I did lend it out) perhaps they could assist Patrick by sketching the hood circuitry, scan/take photo and post diagram here.

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Patrick, are you sure you’re checking the “live” side of the fuse.  I’ve never checked voltage at ecu side of fuse, but ecu works on 5v so guess its possible you’re measuring leakage across ecu from hydraulic side of mechanism fed via 30 amp fuse.

69
Hi Patrick
   
   Many of the components controlling hood operation are connections to earth, so don’t recommend tracking down the cause of problem by indiscriminately applying 12v and “blowing” something. Ideally use a volt meter to check continuity and voltages.
   
   I’m almost certain the up/ down switch is an earth connection, but without the wiring CD (which currently I can’t find) I can’t be certain. Worst case scenario, I’ll check out relays on my own car and report back what to expect at various terminals, but first check you have 12v at fuse.
   
   Max

70
Oh dear! Think I should have kept my mouth shut – reckon I’ve forgotten most of what I learnt about the vagaries of Brooklands hood operation. To make matters worse I seem to have lost the CD  I had containing Brookland wiring diagrams - not that I ever found it much use – nothing ever tallied.
   
   Patrick, you say you’ve checked the 5 amp line fuse, but don’t say if you have 12v at the fuse with ignition ON? If yes, problem is likely to be one of the relays or micro switches. If not,  its likely circuit is protected by another fuse in the main fuse box, which has blown (which might explain the loss of intermittent wipers). If you have 12v let me know and I’ll put myself on a crash refresher course and hopefully come up with some pointers.
   Cheers
   Max

71
Hi Alison. I rarely look at the forum these days, so have only just seen your request for info regarding hood problem. Have you sorted the problem?
   My Ace came minus hood and a few years ago I was fortunate in obtaining one. However, fitting and getting it to work proved a major challenge. As a consequence I gained a fair knowledge of its workings. Let me know if I can be of any assistance.
   
   Max

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Ace 'Brooklands' Forum / Reference Ace Brooklands Side window glass
« on: February 20, 2009, 00:31:55 »
It would certainly make sense to have a spare pair, although, thanks to the banks and our illustrious leader, timing is not ideal!! Would that be 25 x 5mm thick and 25 x 4mm or 25 made up of mix of 4 & 5? Have they indicated the likely price per window.

73
Ace 'Brooklands' Forum / Reference Ace Brooklands Side window glass
« on: February 18, 2009, 22:46:53 »
John,
   
   Having a batch made might be a good idea. D'you know if same glass fits both sides or are they handed?
   
   Max

74
Ace 'Brooklands' Forum / Any Ex AC employees out there?
« on: February 16, 2009, 19:40:50 »
Hi Bob
   
   I've spoken with Neil in the past....
   
   I was hoping an ex-employee might look on the forum ocassionally who could say exactly where the respective fixings were. A lot easier to remove things without damage when you know how they're held in !!

75
Ace 'Brooklands' Forum / Reference Ace Brooklands Side window glass
« on: February 07, 2009, 19:35:06 »
John
   
   I’ve not looked on the site for sometime, so you’ve probably replaced the side window by now. But for what it’s worth, if Starglass have both 4 & 5mm glass available (is that right, Starglass can still supply side windows for the Ace?) you would IMO be better off staying with the original 4mm. Not only is the 5mm likely to be a tight fit in the window channels making operation sluggish, but if memory serves me correct, and the rise & fall mechanism guide runner is a press fit on the bottom of the glass, you’ll almost certainly encounter problems persuading the runner to accommodate the thicker glass (forcing the runners on is not easy even when using the designed glass thickness!).
   
   Max

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