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Messages - James Eastwood

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91
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Radiator removal
« on: May 21, 2020, 16:05:06 »
Peter,

Yes a bit tricky, my radiator is also out at the moment so I went to take a quick look. It really needs a captive nut spot welded to the vehicle frame bracket or making up a nut with a welded tab on for convenience.

Perhaps a socket on both sides. Then possibly you don't have two Whitworth sockets, but possibly a nearest AF or Metric will work.

James

92
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: BE475
« on: May 06, 2020, 16:35:47 »
From the front.

93
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: BE475
« on: May 06, 2020, 16:34:35 »
Finished bar before powder coating. The head rest is a non-period option, but as Andy said, "You don't want you head going under the hoop"!

94
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: BE475
« on: May 06, 2020, 16:31:46 »
Lower frame connecting hoop to chassis rails. there was one further diagonal, that went across the centre of the diamond, which couldn't photo before the rear bulk head was refitted.

95
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: BE475
« on: May 06, 2020, 16:29:24 »
Roll hoop measuring.

96
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: BE475
« on: May 06, 2020, 15:17:08 »
A little over winter update on BE475.

December, I had a traditional roll hoop with removable diagonal fitted. In fact the hoop itself is also removable at the request of my Dad.

The work was undertaken by Andy Robinson Race Cars, and is very well constructed, being tied in to both chassis rails. The structure is all behind the rear bulk head with the hoop passing through the rear deck. We spent quite a while getting the position and height correct so that it would pass the 5cm above helmet requirement with the seat cushion removed, whilst also fitting under the hood. In the end the hood frame had to go up a quarter of an inch, and the hood itself just presses into the hood fabric by a half inch.

I also consulted a lot of period photos and screen shots from the Cobras in the Le Mans 66 (Ford vs Ferrari) film, to get the hoop diameter right.

97
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Aceca AC engined linkage
« on: May 04, 2020, 15:58:00 »
I believe the A.C. engined throttle shaft ran closer to the bulkhead than the Bristol variant. I had found this out when researching a small mysterious blank very neatly rivet to the top surface of my foot box. Presumably the bodies came with both apertures already made and the unused one was blanked off.

See picture attached shows my Bristol throttle shaft and the blank.

Apologies if you already knew this!

James Eastwood

98
Graham, thanks for the reply.

I gave the home made puller another couple of quarter turns, whilst then using my electric hoist to take the engine up and down an inch each way and it then yielded.  :)

It was indeed the flywheel input shaft bearing inner race that had seized to the input shaft. I think the diaphragm and pressure plate had been aligning the bearing, and removing them in situ then allowed the 'jiggle' I gave it second time around to go straight  to the bearing and loosen it.

What a relief to have it all safely apart. We don't believe the clutch has been out since 1970.

I've got some clutch questions for the forum, but I think I will try to find the old clutch thread and add then on there to keep all the clutch component info in one place.

99
Hi there, how are we all? Cracking on with some projects in the lock down time!

I decided to put a new clutch in my Ace, because the current one slips and I've fully inspected the slave travel etc.. and that appears to be fine. The plan was to leave the gearbox in the car whilst pulling the Bristol engine, and that way gain access to the engine bay for some cosmetic work.

With the gear box mount remaining attached to the chassis, I had the engine disconnected from the bell-housing, and suspended by a hoist, with a jack under the gear box. Everything is in a straight line, and I had an even 1mm gap all around the bell housing. However engine wouldn't pull off the gear box. So I made a puller that pulled from the front suspension frame to the crank damper. I wound that up pretty tight and still nothing gave.

I concluded that the pressure plate must be stuck on the input shaft splines, so decided to remove the clutch diaphragm in-situ. I used a die-grinder to slightly open up the left hand (unused) clutch fork aperture until I had socket clearance to the pressure plate bolts, which I then removed.

Ah-hah! I thought, now the engine will pull straight of ... no it didn't! I put the puller back on.. still no movement. I thought, ok the pressure plate is stuck on the flywheel dowels (in addition to the stuck splines), so I reached in through the starter aperture and tapped the diaphragm and pressure plate car-rewards off the flywheel, but still no further separation. I can physically feel the diaphragm is loose now and the pressure plate is also 8mm car rearwards from the flywheel, so I don't think the plate is stuck on the input splines.

My conclusion is that the only thing left that could be stuck is the input shaft bearing in the flywheel. The Ace owners guide shows a roller bearing in the flywheel, so it might be possible for the outer race to seize to the flywheel, whilst the inner race seizes to the input shaft. The assembly will still rotate courtesy of the ball bearing, but it won't separate.

Please let me know any other checks I might perform. Also let me know if you agree with my conclusions ref the seized flywheel roller bearing.

Many thanks indeed.

James Eastwood, BE475




100
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Hoods and hoops
« on: October 25, 2019, 16:23:44 »
Well hoods and roll-hoops to be precise;

I will be having a single roll hoop with removable diagonal fitted by Andy Robinson Race Cars (deposit paid some time ago).

I'm in the process of setting the height for the roll hoop, and I'm conscious that ideally it needs to fit under the hood. Assuming that roll hoop needs to be about 50mm higher than the top of the helmet, it's not possible to get hoop inside the hood profile.

I tried removing the seat cushion, as many racers choose to do, and I can then get the roll hoop, with 50mm clearance to fit inside the hood profile.

Has any one else been through this process?

James

101
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: I Know Where The Bodies Are Buried
« on: October 25, 2019, 16:12:19 »
Well you have to click on a Topic with that title don't you!

I also enjoyed your news letter titled "Help required to re-home two cats".

Trust all well.

102
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: AC Ace hood
« on: September 29, 2019, 00:02:02 »
Benedict,

I'm flat and short so can't help with profile. (I know it sounds like the punch line to a joke..!)

However I also need a hood as my is unsafe at speeds above 10mph. Who is doing yours? I keep putting it off.

James

103
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Bristol badge on Ace
« on: September 24, 2019, 21:37:23 »
I would imagine we must be fairly close to be able to cost effectively print them in alluminium for classic car guys.

We have two printers at work. One did the intake manifold on Ken Blocks Hooligan truck. Sadly I have no close friends in that area and the machines run every shift that's funded with a 2 to 3 week back log.

The parts from these machines are as good as castings. It's going to be a big help for rare and low volume parts once the costs drop.

104
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Aceca Bristol with ford engine
« on: September 24, 2019, 21:17:17 »
"However, from what I gather, they are scarce and therefore very expensive." - A Bristol 400 engine just sold on eBay yesterday. I assume it would need changes to; cam, carbs, CR/pistons, damper, dynamo mounts and a dog bone filter extension. But it's basically the same.

It sold for £4650.

105
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: AC Bristol exhaust manifold
« on: September 24, 2019, 21:02:02 »
I think they came out of the rear for a reason; to prevent exhaust getting blown back over you in traffic, and to make it quieter. Bear in mind it's your passenger who will be affected most.

I've also looked at the side exhaust as mine had that set up in period. Judging by the exit point of side exhausts and the length of my current rear-exhaust,  I think it requires a shorter overall box. I also believe they used slightly larger diameter pipes, but perhaps someone with one can comment.

If you find a source for parts or correct dimensions please share.

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