76
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Brake and Fuel pipe layout
« on: October 29, 2020, 11:15:46 »
58 Ace forward 4-way union.
News:
SMF - installed December 2017.
Returning members - please use the 'Forgot Password' function when logging in to the new Forum for the first time. If you have changed your email address please let me know so I can update it.
Show Posts
This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
77
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Brake and Fuel pipe layout
« on: October 27, 2020, 15:27:41 »
Did a quick sketch of my RHD '58 layout which looks like this.
You will need the little TR2/Healey metal pipe clips to attach the pipe to the holes in the chassis. I can add the clip points if required. I have not shown the run from the reservoir to the master.
Does this get you going?
James
You will need the little TR2/Healey metal pipe clips to attach the pipe to the holes in the chassis. I can add the clip points if required. I have not shown the run from the reservoir to the master.
Does this get you going?
James
78
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Brake and Fuel pipe layout
« on: October 26, 2020, 12:48:32 »
Right or Left hand drive? I can help with a sketch for '58 RHD Ace.
Do you have an original chassis with the clip mount holes or is it a new chassis without?
James E
Do you have an original chassis with the clip mount holes or is it a new chassis without?
James E
79
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Raymond Mays Head for sale
« on: October 15, 2020, 23:17:58 »
These are quite rare and of course the most diffecult thing to find, to build up an RS 2.6 engine.
It's a Mk1 or 2 head with smaller valves, than the correct Mk3 Ace head (information from Rinsey Mills book). Nevertheless these don't come up very often.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274512757110
I have no connection to the lister.
It's a Mk1 or 2 head with smaller valves, than the correct Mk3 Ace head (information from Rinsey Mills book). Nevertheless these don't come up very often.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274512757110
I have no connection to the lister.
80
Cobra (Thames Ditton) Forum / Re: 2.6 Ace or Early Cobra?
« on: October 15, 2020, 18:54:09 »
Is the exhaust the wrong side for a 2.6 as it exits the Ford (or Mays) head on the left hand side of the car?
Thus must be a Cobra?
Thus must be a Cobra?
81
General Forum / Re: Car transport company any ideas
« on: October 13, 2020, 18:00:24 »
We left Brentwood at 5pm and stayed in the Durham Travel Lodge (https://goo.gl/maps/Nm2HD3XAsYBsd4hW6), we were in Edinburgh for 11am the following day (albeit to continue up to the Highlands).
If you took that approach, you could spend 3 hours loading in the day light, and then be home by bed time. Would there be any other car parts to hunt around for when you're there? That might add value to going in person.
If you took that approach, you could spend 3 hours loading in the day light, and then be home by bed time. Would there be any other car parts to hunt around for when you're there? That might add value to going in person.
82
General Forum / Re: Value of found AC Bristol
« on: October 13, 2020, 17:38:32 »
Back to the subject of value, $20k feels very light as you put it, given the race history. Having said that the parts bill is going to add up very fast.
I'd be interested to know how the solid rear has been grafted on. The AC dif housing must have been cut out, I would imagine the current axle is welded in (which was typical for 60/70's 'Altered' era dragsters), rather than sprung , so one hopes not too much of the rear AC chassis has been cut out.
Here's a further idea though, you could make a very interesting NHRA classic street class dragster from all the left over period 1/4-mile parts and a Hawk fibre glass shell. Particularly if the drag racing history is documented. Then also build the Bristol Ace.
...I shall never be forgiven for mentioning drag racing on the AC forum!
I'd be interested to know how the solid rear has been grafted on. The AC dif housing must have been cut out, I would imagine the current axle is welded in (which was typical for 60/70's 'Altered' era dragsters), rather than sprung , so one hopes not too much of the rear AC chassis has been cut out.
Here's a further idea though, you could make a very interesting NHRA classic street class dragster from all the left over period 1/4-mile parts and a Hawk fibre glass shell. Particularly if the drag racing history is documented. Then also build the Bristol Ace.
...I shall never be forgiven for mentioning drag racing on the AC forum!
83
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Ace spare wheel Knob / Nut
« on: October 13, 2020, 14:42:00 »
I bought a well made brass knurled nut from the internet. I'd fit an original A.C. nut if I came across one, but actually I quite like my own offering. The brass nut is 'period' enough for me, I also had to weld the captive nut back in the chassis when the tank was out.
The alluminium disk is cut from an old pattina'd piece of alluminium, which we think is as old as the car.
The alluminium disk is cut from an old pattina'd piece of alluminium, which we think is as old as the car.
84
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: BEX1094
« on: October 06, 2020, 16:00:13 »
Olan,
Welcome to ACOC!
I started a similar project on my Dad's Ace (barn find, in our barn) in 2016. The historical journey and the rolling restoration have been tremendous. With Keith and Tim Isles help I was able to discover more of the events it entered and with the internet I've been able to find photos my father never had access to. I'm always sending my Dad little updates on WhatsApp, and he's enjoyed his 'vicarious restoration'. I'm sure your sister will likewise be interested.
Please post some more pictures, some engine pictures would be of interest.
Question to the forum - the rusty brown colour inside Olan's 1094 boot/trunk on the aluminium panels, is that a factory paint? As I have what looks to be very similar on my car.
Best regards James Eastwood
Welcome to ACOC!
I started a similar project on my Dad's Ace (barn find, in our barn) in 2016. The historical journey and the rolling restoration have been tremendous. With Keith and Tim Isles help I was able to discover more of the events it entered and with the internet I've been able to find photos my father never had access to. I'm always sending my Dad little updates on WhatsApp, and he's enjoyed his 'vicarious restoration'. I'm sure your sister will likewise be interested.
Please post some more pictures, some engine pictures would be of interest.
Question to the forum - the rusty brown colour inside Olan's 1094 boot/trunk on the aluminium panels, is that a factory paint? As I have what looks to be very similar on my car.
Best regards James Eastwood
85
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Ace Bristol Electric Fuel Pump
« on: October 06, 2020, 15:30:38 »
Couple of further points:
1) - I run the boot mounted SU in series with the mechanical pump and only use the pump to prime, it works fine although it has not been given any extended uphill or high power tests.
2nd point) - I had deduced that the idea behind the two-lines/two-pumps approach was more to do with the design of the fuel tank being relatively flat, and using a fuel pump from each side of the tank guarantees one will always be covered when racing. I believe the clue to this is the fact that the lines only join at the fuel rail, and are not Y-pieced together further upstream.
(BTW - I have a box of old SUs if anyone needs a 'period' donor to rebuild, let me know
).
1) - I run the boot mounted SU in series with the mechanical pump and only use the pump to prime, it works fine although it has not been given any extended uphill or high power tests.
2nd point) - I had deduced that the idea behind the two-lines/two-pumps approach was more to do with the design of the fuel tank being relatively flat, and using a fuel pump from each side of the tank guarantees one will always be covered when racing. I believe the clue to this is the fact that the lines only join at the fuel rail, and are not Y-pieced together further upstream.
(BTW - I have a box of old SUs if anyone needs a 'period' donor to rebuild, let me know
).
86
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Re-tempering leafsprings
« on: October 06, 2020, 13:40:41 »
Sorry a bit late to this discussion;
I used Jones Springs to make two new single leaves for my Ace spring assemblies. These were the leaves that have the 'eyes' at each end and I specified them with a shorter eye to eye dimension to introduce some negative camber.
The price was reasonable, and the service was very good considering that it was a relatively small job, plus they have original drawing for Ace and Aceca springs.
The problem was the eyes weren't truly circular enough to press in the brass bush the Ace uses. It would have been fine for a rubber bush. I ended up using a die grinder to polish the spring round. I thought this had worked ok, but after 500 miles one of the rears has developed some play.
My recommendation is therefore to remind whoever makes your springs that they need to accept a brass bush, not the more typical rubber bush and hence a bit more accuracy is required.
I used Jones Springs to make two new single leaves for my Ace spring assemblies. These were the leaves that have the 'eyes' at each end and I specified them with a shorter eye to eye dimension to introduce some negative camber.
The price was reasonable, and the service was very good considering that it was a relatively small job, plus they have original drawing for Ace and Aceca springs.
The problem was the eyes weren't truly circular enough to press in the brass bush the Ace uses. It would have been fine for a rubber bush. I ended up using a die grinder to polish the spring round. I thought this had worked ok, but after 500 miles one of the rears has developed some play.
My recommendation is therefore to remind whoever makes your springs that they need to accept a brass bush, not the more typical rubber bush and hence a bit more accuracy is required.
87
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: BEX1122
« on: July 17, 2020, 13:25:52 »
Thanks for instrument panel and clock notes. I suspect my original speedo/clock was damaged when Bill Shaw crashed the car heavily in the 1961 TT at Madgwick corner. The alluminium panel is still bent and of course no seat belts were fitted. I suspect then that a less expensive speedo only version was fitted as a repair.
On the subject of inner panels. I recently stripped some very hastily applied undersea from the inside of my boot. The process involved laying towels on the horizontal surfaces and soaking them in solvent for 15 minutes. The towel can then be rubbed on the surface and 95% of the gunk gets lifted off. I now have a shiny boot floor with all the patina from 60 years.
On the subject of inner panels. I recently stripped some very hastily applied undersea from the inside of my boot. The process involved laying towels on the horizontal surfaces and soaking them in solvent for 15 minutes. The towel can then be rubbed on the surface and 95% of the gunk gets lifted off. I now have a shiny boot floor with all the patina from 60 years.
88
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Greyhound: advice for track day?
« on: July 08, 2020, 16:38:48 »
Status report please!
Did you do your track day, who was it with and how did you get on?
James
BE475
Did you do your track day, who was it with and how did you get on?
James
BE475
89
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: BEX1122
« on: July 08, 2020, 16:28:45 »
Very cool indeed. I'm 4 years into a rolling restoration of my Father's car BE475, which started in a similar condition. I've gone to great lengths to restore the original equipment, materials and finishes, whereas most restoration businesses will replace almost everything because it's more cost effective given their labour rates.
If you look carefully on the Lucas parts they are all dated with month and year, I found recently that my car has for example the original starter solenoid and wiper motor. I enjoy knowing the car has the parts that it left Thames Ditton with, even if it take 3 evening to get them working properly! In my mind it's worth it.
I haven't seen a separate clock on a Ace dash before, typically they are built into speedometer. I note you also have a Delaney Gallay Heater, but without demister vents. These are very rare, but a similar unit was used in the Ford Prefect if you need spares.
If you are planning on keeping the current paint, I can recommend cutting it with 2500 grade wet and dry sand paper, then using a cutting compound (I used T-Cut) then finally polishing. My paint was heavily oxidised and the secret is to simply cut off the oxidised top few microns of paint with the very find sand paper. The colour will be almost completely restored.
Good luck.
If you look carefully on the Lucas parts they are all dated with month and year, I found recently that my car has for example the original starter solenoid and wiper motor. I enjoy knowing the car has the parts that it left Thames Ditton with, even if it take 3 evening to get them working properly! In my mind it's worth it.
I haven't seen a separate clock on a Ace dash before, typically they are built into speedometer. I note you also have a Delaney Gallay Heater, but without demister vents. These are very rare, but a similar unit was used in the Ford Prefect if you need spares.
If you are planning on keeping the current paint, I can recommend cutting it with 2500 grade wet and dry sand paper, then using a cutting compound (I used T-Cut) then finally polishing. My paint was heavily oxidised and the secret is to simply cut off the oxidised top few microns of paint with the very find sand paper. The colour will be almost completely restored.
Good luck.
90
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: BE 646
« on: July 08, 2020, 15:50:06 »
Stunning. I always enjoy your updates, thank you and press on!