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Messages - James Eastwood

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121
V cool. I now know why our car (200 GPD) has the throttle activation pivot re-positioned. Bill Shaw who drove our Ace in the 1961 season against VPL442, piloted by Bob Staples, will have undoubtedly adopted the modification from the Rudd car. We also have the first under-shield mentioned in the aerodynamics section, and the throttle spindle modifications.

122
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Rear suspension upright
« on: February 01, 2019, 14:46:51 »
I may also need a LH rear upright so if some one has a pair we may be able to buy both. As my upright was cracked accidentally while attempting to press out the taper driver-shaft.

I have had a sample of the upright material examined optically in the materials lab at work (Ford Motor Co) this very morning in fact! It does not have graphite but a high content of ferrite and perlite, this is important as it indicates the upright is cast steel not cast iron. Perhaps some one could corroborate?

My research indicates that cast steel can be welded like a mild steel, i.e. it doesn't need a pre or post-heat process. I will be talking to a welder friend as soon as he picks the phone up and I can report back.

123
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: AC Ace Wheel colour
« on: December 20, 2018, 13:56:17 »
Here's a pic showing the results of my completed half shafts I sprayed using red oxide primer then multiple  coats of the Frost Chassis paint. If you zoom in you can see the surface isn't perfect, but I think it looks 'correct'.

124
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: AC Ace Wheel colour
« on: December 20, 2018, 13:34:15 »
I considered powder coating for the suspension parts on my Ace. It's certainly looks very glossy and is good at covering corrosion pitted surfaces. It's also very convenient for the restorer; you simply remove the parts take them to your powder coat-er, who then de-greases, sand-blasts and paints them, you just turn up 3 days later to be greeted by a box full of shiny parts.

But (yes here it comes) it's not a period correct finish, it's way to 'wet-look' polished than real suspension parts should be. It also corrodes internally, and the rust occupying more volume than the steel it replaces, then lifts the coating allowing the moisture to spread further. It's also extremely difficult to remove, necessitating acetone or methylene chloride, ordinary thinners won't work. Nor can it be removed with a wire brush it's just too strong, it is after all a plastic polymer not a conventional paint.

So in line with my original-as-possible renovation I have had the components media blasted, then I've painted them with ultra traditional red oxide primer, then a layer of chassis paint (Frosts 'Extreme Chassis Black) this is a bit like yacht 'spar varnish' in that it doesn't completely set hard, allowing just a bit of 'give' when it gets stone pecked under the car, rather than chipping off. It can be brushed on or I use a finger tip type small spray gun (200cc) to apply it which works very well. I think that will be as close to factory spec as I can get. Then I typically hang them up in the workshop and later walk into them getting paint in my hair  ::)

I'd be interested to hear what other have done?

125
Keith many thanks for emailing through the pictures of the vehicle frames. Particularly the first picture which
 showed the rear brake line coming forward to the battery box, then up and over the main chassis tube and running along the inside of the tube towards the front sub-frame. I've reproduced the pic showing the part of the routing that I need to re-do, mine has been hastily repaired in that area at some point in the past.

James

126
Happy Christmas everybody.

I'm in the process of renewing my brake line down the length of the car and had these questions concerning the brake and the fuel lines routing. I know the factory may have changed these through the production years, so people may have different routings, but any guidance is helpful. (We have a '58 RHD, Bristol car).

1) Brake line; my line is held to the outside of the chassis tube with the little hair-clip type spring retainers, but around the battery tray there has been some sort of a repair and the routing does not look correct. Should the brake line pass over or under the battery tray and over/under/inside the chassis rail? Should I have another clip(s) between there and the bronze 4-way union at the front sub frame?

2) Fuel line - I have what looks to be a factory original plastic line, but it goes down the transmission tunnel, in a slightly haphazard way, is this correct or should it also go up the outside of the chassis tube. In either case what should retain it? Current it's retained with period-looking aluminium strap bands.

3) Auxiliary fuel line - not fitted reinstated yet, but the car was originally fitted with the aux SU pump. Where should the aux line go typically, parallel to the main fuel line perhaps?

I have a raft of Ace technical pictures collected from the internet, but none unfortunately show this level of detail.

Many thanks,
James
BE475

127
I'm assuming that this was created by someone who worked in a Ford Tool Room and being a Ford employee myself I'm compelled to comment. All major R & D sites and factories have machining and fabricating workshops, although we don't call them Tool Rooms anymore, these are incredibly well equipped when compared to what even what the best restorer will have. For example we have 3-axis measuring machines, flow benches, CNC lathes and mills, and a electron microscope at Laindon in Essex, and employ about 60 staff in the machining shop. Without wanting to incriminate anyone, it has been known for staff to make things for themselves using these facilities, although of course outside business hours!

I'm not  familiar with the two other names mentioned but I have met Nigel Winchester and visited his workshop. Nigel has a set of the original Ace chassis drawings and makes whole new Ace and Cobra chassis to a high standard so I would expect this car has a very representative chassis.

The key question is what is it? Well IMHO it's a well made reproduction,  and it's certainly an achievement to have created it. It's probably no more or less than many cars that compete in the Goodwood Revival which have also been 99% 'rebuilt' with the exception that there is no log book to go with it. If a log book existed of course the same and new metal could be sold as the original car and would be worth twice as much. It's  probably slightly misleading to have used an old AC log book as this perhaps appears to be masquerading as an old AC but given that the owner needed a period log book to get a period registration number then it's easy to see why he would have done it that way.

James Eastwood

128
Norman from the replies so far, I think we're still not quite sure what the purpose of the plate is exactly. It is perhaps unlikely to be for extra retention as I originally thought as it has about a 2mm clearance over the spring retainer plates. It's not a feature on TRs that use a similar caliper.

IMO - I think you're probably ok without it.

James

NB - yes, dkp_cobra the near plate is the modern 'period material' reproduction!

129
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: AC Ace Bristol Exhaust System
« on: August 23, 2018, 04:07:42 »
Hi gents, without wanting to hijack Luke's original thread too much, does anyone know who may produce the side exit racing pipes for Aces? Similar to that fitted to MSV512 in the attached photo. Was the box perhaps used on other racing cars, such that some one might stock these for MGs or TRs possibly without necessitating getting a one off made?

Any info on the side exit racing silencer gladly received.

James
BE475

130
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: 2.6 Zephyr engine
« on: August 12, 2018, 10:56:05 »
I assume it's this one;

https://vancouver.craigslist.ca/van/cto/d/1960-ford-zephyr-zodiac/6645934915.html

It even comes with a car to drive it home in, now what an adventure that would be.

James

131
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Brake pipe clips
« on: July 17, 2018, 23:55:04 »
Very helpful and I have an account with AH Spares. All ordered. Many thanks indeed. James

132
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Brake pipe clips
« on: July 17, 2018, 21:43:50 »
Gents,

I'm missing some of these brake pipe retaining clips, I wouldn't expect they were unique to AC. Does anyone know where I can get some as I've looked at the usual on line suppliers and can't find them.

Thank you, James

133
Thank you. I think perhaps the black paint is original as my plate was also that colour.

Due to only having one, I fabricate a second part. To match the original I used a piece of ally cut from a large second hand sheet we have of 1950's allumium that came from the workshop of none other than Colin Crabbe!

I very much like the idea of using period material to make a period repair. Anyhow see if you can tell the original from the 'new' part!

James


134
Very helpful I've emailed to the new address.

Brian does indeed have in stock, they are just more expensive than the ACOC listed parts. I've bought all suspension my pins and bushes from Brian. In fact I collected them in person at Christmas and we had a cup of tea and a discussion about the AC works and he told me some stories. I'm new to the AC world and the whole experience was very cool. I mentioned Bob Staples, who raced VPL442 against Bill Shaw in our car 200GPD. Brian said Bob Staples was in and out of the factory all the time, he'd come in the side door, set a cylinder head up on the mill, skim it and then let himself out!

Here's a picture of Bill Shaw and Bob Staples on Paddock Hill Bend in 1961.

Thanks again, James Eastwood

135
Gents,

Looking through the November ACOC magasine there were a list of spares available including Ace track rod ends which I'm after. Stephen Hall was listed as the contact for the spares and I emailed in June, then again twice in July, without receiving a response or an 'out of office' reply.

Is anyone able to help me with contact details for Stephen or an alternative route to a store coordinator? They are one of the few things left on my 'buy list' before I put the suspension back on the car.

Many thanks James
BE475
Membership #6401

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