106
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: BE 646
« on: September 24, 2019, 20:51:44 »
Keep going! It's always a pleasure to see these updates.
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107
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / BE475
« on: June 09, 2019, 16:46:48 »
BE475 was out and about on daily driver duties yesterday which meant getting slightly wet as the roof and side screens are not serviceable. On my way from Brentwood over to Much Hadham I stopped by the RAF Sawbridgeworth Memorial. Most people on their way from Sawbridgeworth to the Hadham won't know that they're driving right through a WW2 airfield that had Spitfire Mk IXs flown from it. You need to know what to look for as the remains are well hidden, including the memorial which is off the main (Parsonage) road.
History moment over a couple of tech questions.
1) Did AC fit different speedo calibrations for the differential options or was it taken care of in the g'box speedo output gears. I have a 1280 speedo with a 3.91 final drive is this a correct pairing?
2) Rear view mirror vibration. Fairly difficult to see anything at 2500rpm and is going in circles by 4500rpm! Is there a trick to stop this?
Regards James
History moment over a couple of tech questions.
1) Did AC fit different speedo calibrations for the differential options or was it taken care of in the g'box speedo output gears. I have a 1280 speedo with a 3.91 final drive is this a correct pairing?
2) Rear view mirror vibration. Fairly difficult to see anything at 2500rpm and is going in circles by 4500rpm! Is there a trick to stop this?
Regards James
108
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Unidentified Ace - Brands Hatch August 1956
« on: May 29, 2019, 22:21:08 »
Managed to upload photo.
109
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Unidentified Ace - Brands Hatch August 1956
« on: May 29, 2019, 07:50:43 »
Photo of an Ace Racing at Brands Hatch, UK. Is dated August 56 and car is numbered 110. This might be exciting for anyone who believes their car raced in 1956 but hasn't found any photos yet.
Race programs are available from collector (see eBay) which would associate a driver with a car number which may help. Or the index in the back of the Racing Aces book may also help.
I find all this research really rewarding and have found a dozen or so pictures of my Ace. Slowly people's personal photo collection are finding their way to the Internet which is really exciting if you are piecing together a cars history.
Happy hunting.
James Eastwood , BE475, 200GPD.
See you all at the National Day!
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F333207197237
Race programs are available from collector (see eBay) which would associate a driver with a car number which may help. Or the index in the back of the Racing Aces book may also help.
I find all this research really rewarding and have found a dozen or so pictures of my Ace. Slowly people's personal photo collection are finding their way to the Internet which is really exciting if you are piecing together a cars history.
Happy hunting.
James Eastwood , BE475, 200GPD.
See you all at the National Day!
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F333207197237
110
ACOC News and Events / Re: ACOC visit to Lister cars
« on: May 09, 2019, 10:19:12 »
David,
Many thanks for the reply, I will find the form and delete the Lister visit from my calendar. No doubt there will be another opportunity at a different time.
James Eastwood
Many thanks for the reply, I will find the form and delete the Lister visit from my calendar. No doubt there will be another opportunity at a different time.
James Eastwood
111
ACOC News and Events / ACOC visit to Lister cars
« on: May 03, 2019, 12:02:50 »
Perhaps someone can help; I had put May 18th in for the ACOC visit to Lister Cars. I thought perhaps I'd find the details here under events but I haven't.
Is this still on, where are the details please?
Many thanks
James Eastwood
Is this still on, where are the details please?
Many thanks
James Eastwood
112
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Bristol up-rated clutches
« on: April 23, 2019, 12:55:12 »
Thanks for both of the last two suggestions. V useful to know the pressure plate is a direct fit. I do plan on using the car for sprint and hill climb.
I have also been under the car over the weekend to check that it hadn't run out of mechanic travel at the slave cylinder as the plate has worn. I have a knurled adjuster on a threaded slave push rod (not sure if this is standard?) and I was able to check that it has nor run out of travel.
I therefore need to order the replacement clutch now.
I have also been under the car over the weekend to check that it hadn't run out of mechanic travel at the slave cylinder as the plate has worn. I have a knurled adjuster on a threaded slave push rod (not sure if this is standard?) and I was able to check that it has nor run out of travel.
I therefore need to order the replacement clutch now.
113
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Bristol up-rated clutches
« on: April 11, 2019, 12:16:05 »
If I could appeal for help at least on the 4th item, assistance would be appreciated as knowing whether machining is required it helps me plan to the job.
James
James
114
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: This 1948 AC has to fit somewhere
« on: April 11, 2019, 00:19:19 »
I'm surprised we haven't had more comment on this after all the 'healthy debate' we had about the 'Ford Tool Room Copy'. 
115
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Bleeding brakes and rear spring bolts
« on: April 11, 2019, 00:03:54 »
Barry, many thanks for this detailed information.
I get the idea of trail braking the rear of a car, I'm just back from an outing this evening at Buckmore Park go kart racing. Go karts of course typically only have a rear brake and this can be used to great affect to initiate turn-in. Perhaps this style of driving was more driven by cross ply tyres and the need to set the tyre up with more 'angle of attack' than radials.
My car also locks the rears first, good to know that's the design intent!
I had seen the slots in the rear uprights and assumed Thames Ditton must have fixtured this to set the cylinder in the slot, but it's interesting to note they should float, thank you.
I was aware of the shimming vs spring resetting argument; the shimming changes the roll centre and gives more roll induced positive camber which is undesirable. The upside of the shim is that I can play with ride height before commiting to having the spring 're-set' which necessitates a 3 week turn around to send the spring to Jones Springs in the Midlands, as my local place, Brost Forge in London has just closed last year. I'm also only looking at a 1/2 inch shim at present. But I'm not taking the diff out, so I'm going to have to think about the studs.
I get the idea of trail braking the rear of a car, I'm just back from an outing this evening at Buckmore Park go kart racing. Go karts of course typically only have a rear brake and this can be used to great affect to initiate turn-in. Perhaps this style of driving was more driven by cross ply tyres and the need to set the tyre up with more 'angle of attack' than radials.
My car also locks the rears first, good to know that's the design intent!
I had seen the slots in the rear uprights and assumed Thames Ditton must have fixtured this to set the cylinder in the slot, but it's interesting to note they should float, thank you.
I was aware of the shimming vs spring resetting argument; the shimming changes the roll centre and gives more roll induced positive camber which is undesirable. The upside of the shim is that I can play with ride height before commiting to having the spring 're-set' which necessitates a 3 week turn around to send the spring to Jones Springs in the Midlands, as my local place, Brost Forge in London has just closed last year. I'm also only looking at a 1/2 inch shim at present. But I'm not taking the diff out, so I'm going to have to think about the studs.
116
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: AC or Bristol?
« on: April 10, 2019, 13:13:21 »
Have a look for the 'Original AC Ace and Cobra' book by Rinsey Mills. ISBN 1-870979-14-1. The book includes a guide to the Ace powertrains. Cost wise, yes I think the Bristol is very expensive as are the parts, there are occasional Bristol engines on eBay, but in need of a complete rebuild and not of 100D2 spec.
I haven't ever drive one, but as I Ford employee, I'll put a mention in of the Ford 2.6L 'Zephyr Six' engine, these were bored in period to 2.8 and are mush less expensive. I did see a freshly built Zephyr engine on Race Cars Direct which with a 12 port Mays head, but without carbs or manifolds was about the same as a Bristol needing complete rebuild on eBay. So in my mind it's a very cost effective period engine, that could perhaps be a 2nd engine if you bought an Aceca with the AC engine.
Regards James
I haven't ever drive one, but as I Ford employee, I'll put a mention in of the Ford 2.6L 'Zephyr Six' engine, these were bored in period to 2.8 and are mush less expensive. I did see a freshly built Zephyr engine on Race Cars Direct which with a 12 port Mays head, but without carbs or manifolds was about the same as a Bristol needing complete rebuild on eBay. So in my mind it's a very cost effective period engine, that could perhaps be a 2nd engine if you bought an Aceca with the AC engine.
Regards James
117
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Bristol up-rated clutches
« on: April 10, 2019, 12:57:44 »
My Bristol clutch is slipping and to my knowledge has never been replaced in our family ownership (47 years!).
Having done a search I have found I need these parts;
MG Heavy duty 8.5" diaphragm
AP racing Clutch plate CP5352/1 ,
Borg & Beck Carbon Thrust release part # 3301
1) My budget may not run to the AP racing plate I may have to use a standard MG item - comments?
2) I'm also tempted to use the MG roller bearing because it comes inexpensively as part of the heavy duty clutch kit - thoughts?
3) I've learnt from one of Keith's posts that the AC clutch slave needs to be shimmed, I assume this means an lengthening of the push road to adapt for a slightly different diaphragm depth - Keith/gents - can some one give me an idea of how much shimming is required, in the order of 100 thou or half inch or what?
4) Do I need to machine a new set of dowel and bolt holes, or will the MG fit the Bristol pattern.
Thank you!
Having done a search I have found I need these parts;
MG Heavy duty 8.5" diaphragm
AP racing Clutch plate CP5352/1 ,
Borg & Beck Carbon Thrust release part # 3301
1) My budget may not run to the AP racing plate I may have to use a standard MG item - comments?
2) I'm also tempted to use the MG roller bearing because it comes inexpensively as part of the heavy duty clutch kit - thoughts?
3) I've learnt from one of Keith's posts that the AC clutch slave needs to be shimmed, I assume this means an lengthening of the push road to adapt for a slightly different diaphragm depth - Keith/gents - can some one give me an idea of how much shimming is required, in the order of 100 thou or half inch or what?
4) Do I need to machine a new set of dowel and bolt holes, or will the MG fit the Bristol pattern.
Thank you!
118
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Bleeding brakes and rear spring bolts
« on: April 10, 2019, 12:43:15 »
Many thanks. I had worried that I was about to be told I had everything on the wrong side! At least that's not the case.
I do think there's probably a volume of air upper most in the cylinder, and whether bleeding upwards into the master cylinder may expell it or getting inside the drum and pressing down on the upper piston. I will let it all settle some time and have another go.
My other question was the rear spring bolts - can I remove them to fit longer items to fit a lowering block in place? I just haven't seen how they are removeable??
I do think there's probably a volume of air upper most in the cylinder, and whether bleeding upwards into the master cylinder may expell it or getting inside the drum and pressing down on the upper piston. I will let it all settle some time and have another go.
My other question was the rear spring bolts - can I remove them to fit longer items to fit a lowering block in place? I just haven't seen how they are removeable??
119
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Bleeding brakes and rear spring bolts
« on: April 09, 2019, 13:06:24 »
The long process of rebuilding all the steering, suspension, brakes and drive shafts on BE475 is now complete and I've test driven the car to work several times 
I have a couple of things I need help with;
1) Bleeding the brakes; they're 'ok' but wouldn't win any competitions for firmness. I note that the rear brake cylinders have the bleed lower-most on the cylinder, can others confirm this is correct and are there any tricks to bleeding this arrangement?
2) I'd like to replace the rear spring bolts to fit longer items, in order to fit a small lowering block. How do I dissemble these bolts, as they appear to be captive within the differential casing?
Many thanks.
James Eastwood
I have a couple of things I need help with;
1) Bleeding the brakes; they're 'ok' but wouldn't win any competitions for firmness. I note that the rear brake cylinders have the bleed lower-most on the cylinder, can others confirm this is correct and are there any tricks to bleeding this arrangement?
2) I'd like to replace the rear spring bolts to fit longer items, in order to fit a small lowering block. How do I dissemble these bolts, as they appear to be captive within the differential casing?
Many thanks.
James Eastwood
120
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Brake pads for disc brake AC Ace
« on: April 09, 2019, 12:54:51 »
My personal opinion on changing parts of the car, is don't. Unless you need to upgrade them (i.e. the current part is actually performing sub-optimally), or unless you plan to do event X and some one who knows actually advises it.
Changing brake friction material might give a perceived improved reaction to pedal travel/force but you are also beginning to play with the brake bias front/rear, you may also be generating more brake dust to clean off, and possibly a more corrosive type of dust. Plus we've had the sticking to the disk comment for the previous poster. Then there is the performance difference cold to hot for the more competition type materials to deal with also.
I sprinted my Austin Healey Sprite for 2 years and ran standard pads without a problem. I'm preparing my Ace for sprinting and have also fitted standard material. The brake disks on an Ace are generous for a 800kg car and they not shielded, so just comparing one car to another I think there will be lots of braking capacity on an Ace.
Changing brake friction material might give a perceived improved reaction to pedal travel/force but you are also beginning to play with the brake bias front/rear, you may also be generating more brake dust to clean off, and possibly a more corrosive type of dust. Plus we've had the sticking to the disk comment for the previous poster. Then there is the performance difference cold to hot for the more competition type materials to deal with also.
I sprinted my Austin Healey Sprite for 2 years and ran standard pads without a problem. I'm preparing my Ace for sprinting and have also fitted standard material. The brake disks on an Ace are generous for a 800kg car and they not shielded, so just comparing one car to another I think there will be lots of braking capacity on an Ace.