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Messages - silty

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Lovely looking car and I'm sure you're looking forward to getting out when we pull through the Covid-19 situation. 

It may be an error in the Mark IV Register but AKL1422 isn't a listed chassis number.  AK1422 seems to match your car though.

Hello Clive,

I don't have a continuation car but I did come close to buying one in the recent past.  I suggest having a look in Trevor Legate's book Cobra: The first 40 Years   - I found that to be useful on the subject (there's even a continuation on the cover).  There's nothing mysterious about the continuation cars, and an internet search will also yield information

I'd be happy to answer any specific questions you have if you message me but talking to an owner would be your best bet.

I ended up buying a Lightweight and I've no regrets...

Cobra (Thames Ditton) Forum / Re: Battery isolation switch
« on: April 07, 2019, 14:27:48 »
I have an isolator fitted to the scuttle braces.  The panel is leather covered and a close match to the dashboard.  I'll try and post a pic but it's a first for me....

It was fitted by a previous owner and although it may be a bit too conspicuous based on the for OP's requirements, I've found it quite handy at times.



Cobra (Thames Ditton) Forum / Re: Seen at Retromobile Paris 10.2.2018
« on: February 20, 2018, 08:44:11 »
A common piece of kit for drag racing which locks hydraulic pressure in the front brakes and allows the rear wheels to spin for burnouts. This link shows the components comprising the line lock:

Very high tech!   I have a mechanical switch mounted on the brake pedal arm.
   Like you, I'd try and get the original part but if that proves to be elusive retrofitting a simple on/off switch to the brake pedal may be an easy alternative OEM option for you?

Rob was it this car:
   That one doesn't look like it was ever a Lightweight to me.

A nice car and looking good in black but it lacks most, maybe all, of the significant features of a European lightweight.
   In addition to the points mentioned by MkIV Lux above, a European lightweight has
   - A different rear arch shape
   - 15" wheels with wider wheels at the back
   - and of course a more powerful carb engine
   None of these points should take a second of enjoyment out of buying or owning this car though, it is what it is.

I have a 16" wheel fitted and in my opinion in looks right and allows me the functionality to turn the front wheels when needed. I have attempted to attach an image (a moody black and white)so hopefully it will appear.

You WILL be able to pull the distributor out of the block, no issue whatsoever.  The retaining device is on the oil drive shaft and is designed to keep it located on the oil pump when folks pull the distributor.  The locating device cannot be relied upon as it can fail over time, simply be ineffective from day one, or may have been omitted during the engine (re) build as it serves no purpose if the engine is being rebuilt on a bench with the sump off.
   As above, give it a Google.  The Yanks have been pulling distributors out of SBF ever since the 1960's  - and it's far from rocket science.

Yes.  It's a fairly easy job to pull the distributor and examine or change the drive gear.  The drive gear is shrunk and/or pinned onto the distributor shaft
   Be aware that the oil pump drive shaft is 'loose' in the block and not mechanically attached to either the distributor shaft or the oil pump.  The drive shaft can be lightly stuck to the distributor shaft and as you begin to remove the distributor the drive shaft can release and then fall back into into the sump.  When I pulled my distributor the shaft did fall back, but not into the sump although I could see that being possible.
   While you're at it, consider replacing the low quality original drive shaft with an aftermarket alternative (see Real Steel).  Only a few pounds and eliminates the threat of a sheared shaft and no oil pressure.
   Replacing the distributor and aligning the oil pump drive is a bit of a knack but nowadays Google is your friend.  Youtube, forums etc have been including guidance on how to pull/replace 289/302 distributors for years.
   Good luck

I don't know if it helps but my Lightweight has 14" of vacuum at a 1000rpm idle.  It had a cam change and head work by Uniclip back in the day.  I do notice that heavy braking at low speed drags the revs down below normal idle speed and it actually stalled once.  Considering I don't brake heavily from low speed very often my view is that this minor inconvenience is worth it for the performance gains.

I don't know if this helps but Compomotive also manufacture Halibrand style wheels. I did wonder if they were the manufacturer that Hawk used who went out of business but their website is still live today

That engine doesn't look like a 429 to me.  Didn't the 429 have hemi heads?

No such dust experienced with me.

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