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Topics - James Eastwood

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There's a really stunning and Mk1 Cobra article in this months Octane magazine which arrived this morning to provide distraction from the old working from home. The car was restored by Brooklands Motor Co and belongs to John Kent. CSX2082. Some studio quality pics and a very arty cover shot. Look for the 'April' edition.

ACOC News and Events / Goodwood Revival 2021
« on: February 03, 2021, 13:44:02 »
Just a note to share that Revival tickets were released on Monday (GRRC members had them a week earlier).

Many tickets are already allocated to people that were rolled over from last year, so less now available. I booked some tickets on Monday and the 'Saturday' date was already showing it was almost full.

From what I read, Goodwood are offering a full refund if Covid cancels the event, or a further roll over to 2022, so the worse case scenario is that you just bought your 2022 tickets!

Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Raymond Mays Head for sale
« on: October 15, 2020, 23:17:58 »
These are quite rare and of course the most diffecult thing to find, to build up an RS 2.6 engine.

It's a Mk1 or 2 head with smaller valves, than the correct Mk3 Ace head (information from Rinsey Mills book). Nevertheless these don't come up very often.

I have no connection to the lister.

Hi there, how are we all? Cracking on with some projects in the lock down time!

I decided to put a new clutch in my Ace, because the current one slips and I've fully inspected the slave travel etc.. and that appears to be fine. The plan was to leave the gearbox in the car whilst pulling the Bristol engine, and that way gain access to the engine bay for some cosmetic work.

With the gear box mount remaining attached to the chassis, I had the engine disconnected from the bell-housing, and suspended by a hoist, with a jack under the gear box. Everything is in a straight line, and I had an even 1mm gap all around the bell housing. However engine wouldn't pull off the gear box. So I made a puller that pulled from the front suspension frame to the crank damper. I wound that up pretty tight and still nothing gave.

I concluded that the pressure plate must be stuck on the input shaft splines, so decided to remove the clutch diaphragm in-situ. I used a die-grinder to slightly open up the left hand (unused) clutch fork aperture until I had socket clearance to the pressure plate bolts, which I then removed.

Ah-hah! I thought, now the engine will pull straight of ... no it didn't! I put the puller back on.. still no movement. I thought, ok the pressure plate is stuck on the flywheel dowels (in addition to the stuck splines), so I reached in through the starter aperture and tapped the diaphragm and pressure plate car-rewards off the flywheel, but still no further separation. I can physically feel the diaphragm is loose now and the pressure plate is also 8mm car rearwards from the flywheel, so I don't think the plate is stuck on the input splines.

My conclusion is that the only thing left that could be stuck is the input shaft bearing in the flywheel. The Ace owners guide shows a roller bearing in the flywheel, so it might be possible for the outer race to seize to the flywheel, whilst the inner race seizes to the input shaft. The assembly will still rotate courtesy of the ball bearing, but it won't separate.

Please let me know any other checks I might perform. Also let me know if you agree with my conclusions ref the seized flywheel roller bearing.

Many thanks indeed.

James Eastwood, BE475

Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Hoods and hoops
« on: October 25, 2019, 16:23:44 »
Well hoods and roll-hoops to be precise;

I will be having a single roll hoop with removable diagonal fitted by Andy Robinson Race Cars (deposit paid some time ago).

I'm in the process of setting the height for the roll hoop, and I'm conscious that ideally it needs to fit under the hood. Assuming that roll hoop needs to be about 50mm higher than the top of the helmet, it's not possible to get hoop inside the hood profile.

I tried removing the seat cushion, as many racers choose to do, and I can then get the roll hoop, with 50mm clearance to fit inside the hood profile.

Has any one else been through this process?


Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / BE475
« on: June 09, 2019, 16:46:48 »
BE475 was out and about on daily driver duties yesterday which meant getting slightly wet as the roof and side screens are not serviceable. On my way from Brentwood over to Much Hadham I stopped by the RAF Sawbridgeworth Memorial. Most people on their way from Sawbridgeworth to the Hadham won't know that they're driving right through a WW2 airfield that had Spitfire Mk IXs flown from it. You need to know what to look for as the remains are well hidden, including the memorial which is off the main (Parsonage) road.

History moment over a couple of tech questions.
1) Did AC fit different speedo calibrations for the differential options or was it taken care of in the g'box speedo output gears. I have a 1280 speedo with a 3.91 final drive is this a correct pairing?
2) Rear view mirror vibration. Fairly difficult to see anything at 2500rpm and is going in circles by 4500rpm! Is there a trick to stop this?

Regards James

Photo of an Ace Racing at Brands Hatch, UK. Is dated August 56 and car is numbered 110. This might be exciting for anyone who believes their car raced in 1956 but hasn't found any photos yet.

Race programs are available from collector (see eBay) which would associate a driver with a car number which may help. Or the index in the back of the Racing Aces book may also help.

I find all this research really rewarding and have found a dozen or so pictures of my Ace. Slowly people's personal photo collection are finding their way to the Internet which is really exciting if you are piecing together a cars history.
Happy hunting.

James Eastwood ,  BE475,  200GPD.

See you all at the National Day!

ACOC News and Events / ACOC visit to Lister cars
« on: May 03, 2019, 12:02:50 »
Perhaps someone can help; I had put May 18th in for the ACOC visit to Lister Cars. I thought perhaps I'd find the details here under events but I haven't.

Is this still on, where are the details please?

Many thanks
James Eastwood

Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Bristol up-rated clutches
« on: April 10, 2019, 12:57:44 »
My Bristol clutch is slipping and to my knowledge has never been replaced in our family ownership (47 years!).

Having done a search I have found I need these parts;

MG Heavy duty 8.5" diaphragm
AP racing Clutch plate CP5352/1 , 
Borg & Beck Carbon Thrust release part # 3301

1) My budget may not run to the AP racing plate I may have to use a standard MG item - comments?

2) I'm also tempted to use the MG roller bearing because it comes inexpensively as part of the heavy duty clutch kit - thoughts?

3) I've learnt from one of Keith's posts that the AC clutch slave needs to be shimmed, I assume this means an lengthening of the push road to adapt for a slightly different diaphragm depth - Keith/gents - can some one give me an idea of how much shimming is required, in the order of 100 thou or half inch or what?

4) Do I need to machine a new set of dowel and bolt holes, or will the MG fit the Bristol pattern.

Thank you!

The long process of rebuilding all the steering, suspension, brakes and drive shafts on BE475 is now complete and I've test driven the car to work several times  :D :D

I have a couple of things I need help with;

1) Bleeding the brakes; they're 'ok' but wouldn't win any competitions for firmness. I note that the rear brake cylinders have the bleed lower-most on the cylinder, can others confirm this is correct and are there any tricks to bleeding this arrangement?

2) I'd like to replace the rear spring bolts to fit longer items, in order to fit a small lowering block. How do I dissemble these bolts, as they appear to be captive within the differential casing?

Many thanks.
James Eastwood

Happy Christmas everybody.

I'm in the process of renewing my brake line down the length of the car and had these questions concerning the brake and the fuel lines routing. I know the factory may have changed these through the production years, so people may have different routings, but any guidance is helpful. (We have a '58 RHD, Bristol car).

1) Brake line; my line is held to the outside of the chassis tube with the little hair-clip type spring retainers, but around the battery tray there has been some sort of a repair and the routing does not look correct. Should the brake line pass over or under the battery tray and over/under/inside the chassis rail? Should I have another clip(s) between there and the bronze 4-way union at the front sub frame?

2) Fuel line - I have what looks to be a factory original plastic line, but it goes down the transmission tunnel, in a slightly haphazard way, is this correct or should it also go up the outside of the chassis tube. In either case what should retain it? Current it's retained with period-looking aluminium strap bands.

3) Auxiliary fuel line - not fitted reinstated yet, but the car was originally fitted with the aux SU pump. Where should the aux line go typically, parallel to the main fuel line perhaps?

I have a raft of Ace technical pictures collected from the internet, but none unfortunately show this level of detail.

Many thanks,

Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Brake pipe clips
« on: July 17, 2018, 21:43:50 »

I'm missing some of these brake pipe retaining clips, I wouldn't expect they were unique to AC. Does anyone know where I can get some as I've looked at the usual on line suppliers and can't find them.

Thank you, James


Looking through the November ACOC magasine there were a list of spares available including Ace track rod ends which I'm after. Stephen Hall was listed as the contact for the spares and I emailed in June, then again twice in July, without receiving a response or an 'out of office' reply.

Is anyone able to help me with contact details for Stephen or an alternative route to a store coordinator? They are one of the few things left on my 'buy list' before I put the suspension back on the car.

Many thanks James
Membership #6401

Hi there gents.

My brakes had these components in them, two anti rattle spring things, with mounting pieces and one larger aluminium cover over the whole assembly. Pic attached.

What do other owners use in this area and where do you get the replacement parts please? Is the aluminium cover a racing part for additional pad retension or a factory part?

I did do a search but  nothing came up, possibly the parts are known by different names.


Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Ace - Hub Puller
« on: December 11, 2017, 16:30:39 »
Hi there chaps. I'm rebuilding all the running gear on BE475, and have struggled to get the rear hubs separated, I've tried drifting the axle out without success. I would sincerely appreciate borrowing a hub puller from some one who lives not too far away from me. I'm based in Brentwood (UK) which is essentially the M25-A12 Junction 28.
   Many thanks James Eastwood

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