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Messages - Klassik Metall

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 14
1
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Ace Boot Lid Catch
« on: April 24, 2022, 13:00:44 »
Sorry about that, I thought this was the same as the Vintage Car Parts lock, which is definitely the correct pattern.
I have bought both boot & bonnet latches from them in the past & they are a very close match to the original units.

2
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Ace Boot Lid Catch
« on: April 23, 2022, 18:32:43 »
Moss Motors Part No. 470-455
MG Midget/Austin Healey Sprite trunk latch.

Regards, Luke.

3
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: AC Aceca speedo cable?
« on: April 23, 2022, 12:45:39 »
Speedograph Richfield Ltd in Nottingham have AC cables listed on their website under control cables.

4
Hi Robin.
The variations within the different classifications is what I was getting at.
For example nowadays if you take two C2 class bearings from different manufacturers one may have more play than the other.
like many other items now, you have to be very careful when selecting components. it's not something that happened in the past
when using good quality bearings like SKF or Koyo.

5
You'll need a hub puller to separate the hub from the shaft.
This can take a considerable amount of force, depending on how well or not the taper on shaft is mated to the hub.
I use this style of puller.[url]https://www.orsonequipment.co.uk/product/hub-puller-type-42-8-tpi-k021-8//url]

6
It sounds like play in the bearing but could also be wear in the upright, on the OD of the inner bearing.
The only way to know for sure what's going on is to remove the hub, half shaft & bearings.
It's now seems difficult to find new rear hub bearings that don't have a small amount of axial play.
A friend of mine recently had to go through several brands of bearing before finding an acceptable pair.
Although all the bearings were specified to be of the same internal clearance, in reality they all showed different degrees of play.

7
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: half shaft alignment
« on: March 28, 2022, 22:30:15 »
No need for any phasing, the shafts are independent of each other via the action of the differential.

8
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: half shaft alignment
« on: March 28, 2022, 16:02:20 »
The lower shaft is correct. Just undo the retainer on the incorrect shaft, slide apart and realign it.
A lot of odd things can happen to a car that's nearly six decades old! :)

9
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: half shaft alignment
« on: March 28, 2022, 14:10:41 »
The half shaft yokes should be in line with each other. One half of the shaft is normally marked with an arrow and the other yoke has a small notch to show the correct alignment.
As Chris said, incorrect alignment can be a cause of driveline vibration.

Regards, Luke.

10
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Ace 2.6 Engine Color
« on: March 18, 2022, 07:31:56 »
The closest match that I've found to the original Ford dark blue/green paint is RAL 6005 Moss Green.
I've also seen an original 2.6 block in a lighter turquoise green but couldn't be sure that it hadn't been
repainted sometime in the last fifty years. Red & American Ford engine blue are not correct in my opinion.

Regards,Luke.

11
The three unrestored original cars that I've worked on had bitumen based underseal on the wheel side of the front wheel boxes.
All of the floors boot included were just bare ali. I've observed that many restored cars seem to have no coating on the front wheel boxes
so can only assume that they never see any rain or salt.

When restoring these cars I coat the under wing areas with an epoxy primmer, either by spray gun or with a small foam roller.
I then spray these areas with a modern synthetic stonechip/underseal, I use black Teroson Terotex 3000.

As for the floors, I just mist coat them in ACF-50 or a light anti corrosion wax from an aerosol can.
I find this is easy to clean off & renew if it gets very dirty, it also offers a good level of corrosion resistance.
I also use the same spray along the inner sill tube area.

For the inner panel edge seal I use 16mm square section closed cell EPDM foam strip. This is the closest thing that I've been able to find to the original sealing material.
I slit the square profile half way through with a small split steel jig with a 16x16mm square through hole. The slit is cut by a box cutter blade clamped in a recess
between the two halves of the jig. I glue the seal in place with UHU all purpose adhesive which seems to hold up well & doesn't melt the foam strip.

Hope the above helps & good luck with your restoration, Luke.

12
These were still available from the ACOC spares list when I bought one three years ago.

13
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Early Aceca Windscreen Frame
« on: December 30, 2021, 08:17:08 »
I can confirm that the original Aceca windscreen frame is in one piece without any removable sections.
It is possible to replace the screen when using the same profile rubber seal as was originally used.

14
Hi there,
Nice to see another Aceca on this forum.
I used to buy fuel tanks from Andy Wiltshire as he could make them more cheaply than I could!
I was very happy with the quality & Andy was always happy to make any modifications needed.
Unfortunately, Brexit has made this unviable for me now, so I'm back to making them myself.

I've had a couple of exhaust systems from Quicksilver. They are quite expensive & some of the welding
was not the best cosmetically but overall they fitted well enough. The tail pipes are a little long & may need
trimming to suit your car. Quicksilver only make these to order, which can take some weeks depending on
their workload.

I paint the tanks either matt or slightly satin black.

Good luck with your recommissioning,
Luke.

15
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Weber carbs
« on: December 06, 2021, 22:15:26 »
Yes, I saw in the comments that the Youtube engine is only going to run a single down draft Weber, that just makes all the other modifications seem even more strange!
As you said, to each their own.

Greg Margett's clutch modification was to machine off the deep rim of the original flywheel, (which has the additional benefit of lightening it) and re-drill/tap new holes
for a larger diameter diaphragm clutch. The original bronze spigot bush was also changed to a suitable bearing. Of course this also means changing the release bearing
and modifying the operating fork slightly.

Greg used to sell all the parts needed for this conversion and I believe the clutch pressure plates were specially made to his specs. In the past he had also experimented
with fitting stronger coil springs in the original clutch, to stop it slipping on tuned engines. The results weren't very good however and resulted in a very snatchy engagement
which he thought would soon break the transmission.

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