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Messages - Flyinghorse

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1
Has anyone tried data logging on the EEC-IV?
I did read a Bosch 1300/ snap on MT 2500 / actron elite could be used with the correct adaptor to log OBD1 data streams from the sensors feeding the EEC-IV. I don’t believe that the obd1-obd2 adapters work unless your analyser can read obd1.
I’m not interested in fault code reading as can do that, and I can also back probe the sensors with a dvm easily, but wanted in particular to look at the long and short term injector fuel trim values.

I could couple up a moates quarter horse but really just want something simple.
Graham

2
I see from searching the threads ( “ball joint”) that AC Heritage did have some new ones but that was quite a long time ago.
I don’t know what other cars had them fitted, but they were apparently Quinton hazel manufactured.( no longer in business)
Graham

3
I no longer need a regulator. Plenty available in states if required.
I was able to make up a fuel rail pressure tester to fit the Schrader valve connection to confirm when on idle with high vacuum the regulator does indeed drop the system fuel pressure correctly.

4
You can work it out yourself using one of these calculators( many online):
https://www.tyresizecalculator.com/tyre-wheel-calculators/speedo-error-calculator

5
Hi-I am looking for a Mk-IV fuel rail pressure regulator (in UK ). Its got the triangular 3 screw base, single o ring (unlike later CRS 2 bolt 2 o ring set up).
Prefer a new one , but a functional one fine.

Has anyone fitted an after market regulator instead so  a fuel pressure gauge can be fitted?
There seems several aftermarket ones available ( i.e Kirban)

Regards Graham

6
Uwe-have sent you a message. I wrote the Action article.
I can email you the word document.

Out of interest does the mkiv have a toe adjust on the rear wheels ( as the Mkiv CRS does).

Regards,
Graham

7
Im looking for a T5 WC gearbox , prefer one that's needing a rebuild or has problems.

Regards,
Graham

8
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Tripple weber set up
« on: November 10, 2023, 20:26:11 »
It would help if you confirmed some basic info. ( ie you don’t say if it’s idle,progression, main jet running that’s rich)
Your specific question is hard to answer with out more information  but I assume your engine is 2.6 litres six so 433cc per cylinder. If you don’t have a copy of Des Hammill Weber and delorto book get one - he recommends a 55 idle jet for a 500cc cylinder.

I assume the webbers are 45 dcoe?
You have balanced them?
What are the current idle jets, other jets ? ( ie 55F8?)
Despite a fixed idle jet the idle mixture ( air) still is variable  via screw with spring on each carb near intake manifold junction, best individually( each cylinder)  checked using something called a gunsons colourtune?
I have attached a photo.

If the basics don’t fix the issue or the jets are actually oversized for the cylinder volume I would start by looking at float heights and if any floats are perforated (Do a hot water test). Pinholed floats, and poorly functioning  needle shut off valves will cause rich running on idle. I am assuming here that your carbs have ethanol proof rubbers where required (ie needle valve tips).
Also the butterflys ought to be shut for the idle circuits to be the only ones operating.
The fuel delivery may also be an issue ( ie pump and regulator pressure-) as webbers are low pressure high volume carbs so to high a pressure will cause float needle seating issues.

9
I’ve noticed a lot of gasket kits are on back order/ special manufacture.

If you don’t fancy Barrie’s old school method these folk may be worth contacting:

https://www.stephensgaskets.co.uk/shop

10
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Fuel Pump location AC Engine
« on: August 02, 2023, 23:49:51 »
I’d agree with tappet adjuster Eddie that over fueling unlikely caused by fuel pump position but rather issue with float height setting / float needle valve sealing against seats and/ or fuel pump pressure being to high.
Most early carbs are low pressure high volume feed( ie webbers etc 4psi). Its worth checking floats have integrity as well ( not leaking) - test in hot water for leaks.

I work with pumps a lot in the oil and gas industry for lifting fluids out of wells and the key point is that they need primed with liquid ( not air/ gas) to pump efficiently where they can lift liquids to the required location and at the required pump “head”( think pressure), so you could site fore or aft but they would be best sited at least below the mid point of fuel tank depth, or close so they are always primed assuming you keep the tank filled up. The lower the better imho.
FH

11
Laurent- I would first establish what’s marked on the bearing in your car and go from there.
(Ie ml,l,m)
Theses bearings are spherical bearings and a bit like heim / rose joint rod bearings.

Decoding the suffix is a bit of a mystery as you would need to know the manufacturers suffix table meaning.
Often it’s metal type , fit quality etc. I never got to the bottom of why mine was L, and even thought it meant “loose fit” as the new ones were loose, but that’s speculation on my part , not  indisputable fact.

The most recent post prior to yours discusses  a variant of this bearing ( RBJ-207L) that most of us seem to use and there was a uk supplier at reasonable cost.

You mention it’s an RBJ-210 ( let’s not worry about suffix for now) - I found this table showing bearing and construction and sizes

Graham

12
This link shows the bearing - I have a couple on the shelf and can give you a contact.
https://www.acownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=1993.msg1993#msg1993

Graham
( no no longer a member but don’t mind helping out a member)

13
Reference the original question , is there not muddling up static timing ( ie 12.5 deg tdc) and centrifugal advance at full rpm. I assume the distributor used on the Weller 6 cylinder has centrifugal advance or a manual advance lever some where.
FH

14
I got one of these from the original batch and use it as a display item in my Bristol 400 tool box.

Do you want it for “ real” use or display?

I bought a 1/4” whitworth ratchet spanner for real mechanical work.

The originals not easy to find at reasonable price so just keep looking about and you may get lucky.

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