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Messages - westcott

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1
Hi Constant,

before mounting SPAX as a replacement I would ask KW Suspensions in Germany to produce a set for the MK IV !

I was in contact with them in the past, all they need is a reference damper/spring combination for front and rear.

All other info or measurements needed will be discussed if necessary.

Even the color can be adjusted to match the orange Koni appearance.   

https://www.kwsuspensions.de/

2
AC Cars provided the cast iron exhaust manifolds for 289 Cobras. There were two known versions. One with a A.C. engineering number cast in and one without. Most Cobras used the one with no markings.

Thanks for your comments on the markings !

3
Uwe,
I had one of those once - a good paperweight or doorstop. I think it unlikely that they were Cobra specific, possibly you might find they were Falcon Sprint or Comet parts ? As I recollect they had quite small ports which matched 260 heads. If so there are Ford old part stockists in the U.S. For example:

http://www.allclassicmustang.com/MustangpartsmustangpartsNOSmustangpartsrestoration.html
Barrie

Thanks Barry, I will discuss the port size with my friend

4
A friend of mine is assembling his 289, sitting in the garage for more or less one decade.

He is missing the exhaust manifolds and want to get hold of the "Y" cast exhaust manifolds seen on the street cars.

Were can he buy 4 of the "Y" manifolds today? Is Gerry at Hawk Cars perhaps a source for the manifolds ?

The next question relates to the nudge bar at the front. In most pictures of a 289 street, the nudge bar is slightly curved when viewed from above. Are they all curved or does it depend on the year?

What source is there for the curved nudge bars?

Thank you in advance, Uwe

 

 

5
The next to do is the radiator. The 5-row radiator mesh was completely replaced by a mesh in which the water-carrying tubes are not in direct alignment behind each other but are always offset. This means that cooling air flows directly on to all the tubes from the side, which increases effectiveness.

In addition, the fan switch installation was changed from the pushed in solution with a plastic bayonet to a current commercially available screw solution in order to be able to use many possible M22x 1.5 mm switches with different temperature ranges.

Fan switch is now a normal M22 x 1.5 single stage. Switching points are 85 -75°C

Note the detail work by the radiator company, they masked the Serck plate before painting.  8)

6
The next extremely expensive special tool helps to replace 2 additional hands when the spacer bushes are positioned on the left and right of the universal joint and everything is to be mounted together in the upright.

A 16mm ABS round material is slotted lengthwise in the middle with the saw to make the diameter resilient.

Then it is filed with a file into a polygon (almost round) that can clamp the bushings and can be mounted through the u jount with a little pressure.

Then the pin is pressed through the U-joint and the bushings are mounted on both sides without damaging the rubber. Be careful not to crush the rubber between the bushings and U-joint.

Then mount the upper wishbone end in the upright, position it and press out the pin with the screw.

Done, no damage to the rubber and a lot of nerves saved.

Here you can see the ABS pin with the clamping spacer bushes that have been pushed on as a test

7
Let's move on to installing the rubber sleeve and the spacers on the side of the universal joint. Here I have developed 3 extremely expensive special tools that save me time and money. But you know good tools come at a price.

The first two extremely expensive special tools were made from a cleaning rag. Both strips are inserted through the smaller opening at the front, one comes out at each side opening of the rubber.


Now the universal joint is greased and the two strips are each gripped with one hand, thereby expanding the rubber. When the expansion is greatest, the rubber with the two strips is then lifted under tension over the universal joint. Twist 90 degrees and you're done. 1 minute work without damaging the rubber.


8
It's been a long time without an update but now the last parts of the frog have been revised.

Last year we visited the ECM in Inzell and while driving up to the Großklockner we heard familiar noises coming from the rear drive train.

The drive shaft on the left side has always had a bit of play, but the many curves and uphill climbs have made the situation worse.

In the evening, water stains could also be seen under the radiator in the hotel's underground car park. So: drive shafts and the radiator need to be reworked.

The drive shafts were manufactured by the Welte company in Hockenheim. The result is perfect.
The universal joints were replaced with reinforced joints and the splined shaft parts were completely rebuilt. Waiting time was a week with regular updates by email.

To remove the drive shafts, I always remove the upper wishbones from the axle support. The rubber sleeve of the universal joint usually needs to be replaced. We'll get to that later.

Here we have the new drive shafts ready for assembly:



9
Thanks a lot Graham for your email. That document is now part of my MK IV technical descriptions.

🤜🤛


10
Graham, yes, the MK IV has toe in adjustment. I think the rear suspension is the same or close for both car variants.

I tried to add a recent picture but the size is too large.

11
I‘m looking for the ACtion edition showing the guideline how to adjust the MK IV rose joints.

It was explained there what adjustments in turns at the rose joints resulted in what adjustment in degrees.


Many thanks, Uwe

12
The shifter boot upper edge sewed together like a small pipe. Inside that pipe there is a cord keeping it tight around the shifter lever. You can cut the cord at the front position on the upper sewed area and strip it over the shifter.
If the upper opening is still too small cut the seam in the upper area, it is no problem to sew it together again with little effort and invisible🙂

13
Spacers are available in different dimensions from companies like ISA racing, selling rubber covers for Uniball joints.

14
 Moin, as far as everything was clear, it was also in the old documents. I wanted to know what the suffix 2 at the beginning of the number stands for. All "old" numbers start with "1".
Did you simply name the other cars "new" from 2000 or why does the chassis say AK 2002 but the VIN doesn't show a "2"?

Morning, as far as everything was clear, it was also in the old documents. I wanted to know what the suffix 2 at the beginning of the number stands for. All "old" numbers start with "1".
Did you simply name the other cars "new" from 2000 or why does the chassis say AK 2002 but the VIN doesn't show a "2"?

15
The digit in question is the first „2“ instead of the normal „1“ most of the # start with.

I supported the sale of AK „2“002 and the new owner really enjoy the car.

It is a special one with aluminum hardtop, AC 289 Sports dash and doors, ordered this way directly from the factory by the first owner.

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