AC Owners Club Forum
AC Owners Club Forum => Mk IV, Superblower, CRS and other Continuation Cars Forum => Topic started by: French Frie on September 06, 2012, 09:24:35
-
a friend of mine has just imported a MKIV (topic to come, and it has 15" wheels ... I love it [:D]! I know the subject has been beaten to death, but a discussion with an ACOC member (sorry, I can't remember his name) has confused me [:o)] !
he said that trigo wheels don't have the correct offset (ET) and, if I remember clearly, that implies that front wheels foul with calipers...
those sold by Gerry Hawkridge seem to have the correct ET, but they're not in the same budget range [:(] !
he also said that US seller (Vintage wheels or somethin' like that [;)] !) may provide hallibrand-like wheels, with the correct ET...
what is your experience with that ?
thanks !
Olivier
-
I have Gerry's wheels fitted to my MkIV, as does Bruce and Matt and we are all really pleased with them. Save up, it will be worth it[:D]
-
Beside the ET the trigos has also a different cone. They do not fit on the MK IV hubs. Buy Gerry's, they'll work.
-
I also have Gerry’s wheels fitted to my MkIV with Avons. My wheels did require the centres to be machined a little in order to get the angle right for the spinners, but the offset was no problem. FYI - If you go with the 15 wheels and Avon tyres don't be tempted to fit the widest front you can as it will foul the arches on full lock.
-
Mine are also sourced from Gerry and have Avons. The rears ( 275's) were fouling the arches under heavy bumps or cornering. Some adjustment by Thunder Road has sorted this and the grip, ride steering and braking are all now vastly better than the Setup was on 16's. I did have a slight problem with the balance weights on the inside of the rims slightly fouling the front calipers but this was easily solved by shaving the weights very slightly. I suspect this would not be a problem on a MkIV as the AP Racing calipers on my Superblower look quote a bit bigger.
-
I cannot speak for the Mk. IV, but you do have to remember that the the steering arms have to be modified on the second chassis type if you fit Halibrand style wheels. This was the case in period and is nothing to do with the rather good Trigo reproductions.
I did help a chum fit 15" Trigos and 15" Dymags to his Mk. IV and the seating angles were correct on the hub and the knock on. He used Dunlop Racing M section on the Dymags and Avon CR6ZZ on the Trigos. The fronts were no problem, but both the Dunlops and the Avons were too big for the rear wheel arch spaces. This was a puzzle as they were the correct size for an original car with the second style chassis - 6.50M and 295 section respectively, close to the original Goodyear 26.5 x 10.5 racing covers. However on inspection it was obvious that the wheel arches had plenty of room and it was the exhaust hanging that was the problem, once the hanging was sorted out as Brian Angliss intended the tyres worked a treat.
I did attempt the same approach on a 4000 series Shelby "Cobra" (Super Performance) but to my surprise the 295 Avons would not fit in the rear and no amount of examination could find an easy answer. For some reason they made the wheel arch less roomy and a smaller rear tyre (275 Avon) had to be used.
I think the question of wheel balance weights is one that goes right back to the first Cobras. For what it is worth I only ever go for static balance so there is never any need for weights on the outside of a wheel. Then for balance weights on the wheel inner rim you fit the front weights as far outboard as possible and on the rears as far inboard as possible. This works for the worst case - Girling CR fronts and ORA rears. With iron callipers - 16/3, or Type B fronts on the first type of chassis and 12/3 rears there is more space, but do a trial fit before sticking the weights in place and putting the metal foil tape over them.
-
I can only comment regarding the 15" front wheels as the rears on my Superblower SB7002 are Barrie Bird surplus (and very well they scrubbed up too}.
I therefore needed a pair of front wheels to complete the set,I ordered a pair from Curtis at Trigo, they arrived within a week, fitted perfectly (certainly no offset or hub mounting issues here) I am very pleased with the quality and even allowing for ups carriage and duty they represent very good value.
-
To all : Many thanks for your answer ! But I must say that I can't define if Trigo wheels will fit or not ...
Peter, are you sure about the cone fact ? I've heard about machining for the spinners indeed, but not for the hub...
I also have to admit that Trigo wheels prices are really more affordable than the hawk wheels, and can be found on second hand... They're also appreciated by cobra replicas owners, hence my question...
-
For what it is worth I have just removed one of my Trigo front wheels and compared the hub mount cone angle to one of my original 16" wheels using a profile gauge and it appears the same. My car has the standard BMW calipers which may be why I have not had an issue with them fouling the rims.
Regarding machining I have not had any issues with the Trigo wheels, strangely it was the older original 15" wheels that I obtained from Barrie Bird that needed slight modification to allow my spinners to sit correctly, I contacted Barrie , he informed me he had not had an issue with them which seems to point to possible differences in the spinners we all use, perhaps some have a larger shoulder behind the spinner wing ?
-
Thanks Paul for that info ... I know that my 16" hallibrand have been machined to accept the spinners instead of the autokraft hexagonal bolt, but I've made 4 bronze spinners anyway (to avoid seizing), and I know for sure that they match the trigo wheels...
-
quote:
Originally posted by French Frie
To all : Many thanks for your answer ! But I must say that I can't define if Trigo wheels will fit or not ...
Peter, are you sure about the cone fact ? I've heard about machining for the spinners indeed, but not for the hub...
I also have to admit that Trigo wheels prices are really more affordable than the hawk wheels, and can be found on second hand... They're also appreciated by cobra replicas owners, hence my question...
Michael (1984MkIV in the forum) bought Trigos for his 1984 MK IV and they didn't matched. As I remember the problem was that on the rear hubs the wheels hit the brake discs but haven't reached the cone. Please, contact Michael for further information.
-
quote:
Originally posted by French Frie
Thanks Paul for that info ... I know that my 16" hallibrand have been machined to accept the spinners instead of the autokraft hexagonal bolt, but I've made 4 bronze spinners anyway (to avoid seizing), and I know for sure that they match the trigo wheels...
FF, I too have the original 16" Autokraft wheels with the Hex bolt as this was required for U.S. regulations. You mention you made a set of 4 bronze spinners for your car. I am very interested in getting a set of the bronze spinners such as were original to the Mk IV cars. Did you actually make them yourself, or do you have a source to make them or purchase them? I have checked with Gerry and he has stainless and aluminum spinners but not bronze. AC Heritage can supply a bronze set but for a price that seems perhaps a bit on the high side. I would be interested in obtaining some bronze spinners through you if possible depending on the pricing. Thank you!
-
See previous topic
New size Avon CR6ZZ 225/60 15
This new size Avon should not rub the front GRP inner liners.
I have an extra spare set of 15" lightweight Autokraft Halibrand style wheels which came with my car. I might consider parting with them for a price!
-
quote:
Originally posted by AK1055
I might consider parting with them for a price!
U've got an email [;)] !
-
13 days later ... Here are the wheels (from Hawk), in their new home [;)] !
(http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/5273/img2442q.jpg)
(http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/6866/img2443rj.jpg)
With the new front dimension (225/60/15):
(http://img203.imageshack.us/img203/3420/img2446xb.jpg)
Thanks to Malcom for this easy and smooth transaction, and to BMTR for fitting the Avons and shipping the whole... I can't wait [}:)] !
-
Ok... Update ! For once, the weather was shiny yesterday, and I wanted to swap my wheels... I started by the rear ones, without any problem, even though there is less than 2 cm between the exhaust line and the tyre (but I assume it's not a problem, right ?)
But things are different for the front [:(]... As a member already told me, the steering arm is fouling with the inner rim, and wheel can't even turn (see pic) ! I thought that the Hawk/compomotive was made for the MKIV, and this was a part of my decision vs the Trigo...
(http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/s673/frenchfrie91540/606041680a3f6fceef165ce548b6831b_zps0fe2a66d.jpg)
So, I had to put the 16" wheels back, and now need to find a solution : either bending the steering arm to clear the rim (geo needed and maybe more weakness) or having a spacer made (but will the pegs be long enough) ... 4 or 5mm should suffice.
For those who have choosen the Hawk wheels: did you encounter the same issue, and what was the option choosen ?
It's a pity, because it does look good withe the 15", and a quick test with the rear ones fitted showed a very good grip ...
(http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/s673/frenchfrie91540/12ab37c065098b32ac9c31f877a1e817_zps78206bac.jpg)
-
In addition to this post, does it mean that AKLs have different steering arms ?
Just to show the difference ( diameter and ET) vs 16" :
(http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/s673/frenchfrie91540/2ab4ac037cf5938fbeac2aca333568bf_zps88c33956.jpg)
-
I believe you will find thay are the same and bent at the factory to suit the smaller wheel diameter. One of the ex Autokraft fitters told me this a few years ago.
-
Olivier, Bending steering arms sounds horrific, but it isn't. All the competition cars had bent arms in period. I have bent a few in recent years and it is not a problem:
1) Although it can be done in situ I would remove the complete steering arm /calliper carrier.
2) Mount carrier end in a sturdy vice. Be sure of the orientation - do not bend in the wrong direction....
3) Use an oxyacetylene welding torch and heat the arm gently at about half way along the arm to a uniform cherry red over about 1" length.
4) Apply some gentle muscle, via a suitable pipe, bending the arm inboard.
5) The early cars had about 1/16" clearance to the rim, which looks scary, but works fine. Do not bend more than necessary as you do not want to run out of adjustment on the track rod.
6) When you have the first one done make the second one look the same. Absolute precision is not essential as the track rod length will be adjusted to regain the correct tracking - refer to Graham Stuart for the correct Mk.IV settings. I think they are on a thread here somewhere.
7) In period it was usual to bend arms to such a degree that all of the adjustment was used up and then the track rods had to be shortened and longer threads cut. Judging from your photographs you do not need this amount of bend.
Courage mon braves
-
thanks Barry !
those were the days, my friend [;)] ! I must say that it concerns me to bend those arms ... regarding the geo, I did it few months ago and posted here the datas.
I'll try to make spacers before going this route... but thnaks for the info !
PS: just for your knowledge, "mon brave" is a bit paternalistic (or implies subordination) in French... don't say it to someone who serves you here, or he can be upset (anyway, french people are upset by everything [:o)]!)
-
Olivier, I would not use any spacers when there is a tried and tested solution available. Perhaps I have made it sound more complicated than it is.
My apologies for misuse of the French language.
-
Barry, it sounds clear and precise, thanks ! Regarding SJ351 did it on his car , and it is a common modification on other cars... I have to determinate yet what is the required thickness ( few millimeters, me thinks) by putting some washers on the pegs and measure their total thickness... If a too thick spacer is required, then I'll explore the bending arms solution!
For the language mistake, please do not apologize... It was funny [;)] !
-
Olivier,
Fitting spacers to a peg drive hub, even if thin, is perhaps a risk. The torque will now apply a bending rather than shearing force to the pegs and this was not how they were designed. How much torque goes through the pegs and how much through the mating surfaces and tapers is a question quite beyond my amateur engineering.....
If you must use spacers then drill and tap the wheel and use counter sunk screws and maybe adhesive to ensure that the spacer becomes part of the wheel. I have done this as a second best solution when finding wheels that were not machined for a Cobra hub, i.e GT40 wheels, in the days before Trigo.....
-
thanks Barry... not sure to see the issue, but anyway... I tried this morning with shims to figure out what would be the thickness of the spacer, and even with 6 millimeters thickness, it still touchs the rim! the wheel now turns, but it's too narrow... and with that space, the spinner is not inserted enough :( ! it's not cute, and it's not safe !
so the bending option is now number one ... but once again, I'm very surprised and disappointed that those Hawk wheels don't fit, as they were supposed to do so ! I would curious to try Trigo wheels and see the difference ...
I looked at the rod ends, and there is about 1,5 cm (0,6 inch) of thread left, so it should be enough to compensate the bent arm... hopefully the rod end can go all that way !
-
I had a set of the Hawk wheels and Avon tyres fitted to my MkIV last year and I, like most people, had to have the track rods bent to make it all work. The guys that look after my car said they have to it virtually every time an owner has gone 16 inch to 15 inch (Hawk) wheels. I also had to have the mating face of the wheels machined to match the hub in order to get the correct fit, but all in all it was no big deal.
As Barry said, it’s what they did in period.
John.
-
I do not believe that it is possible to fit 15" x 7.5" front wheels to a leaf spring or coil spring chassis without bending the steering arms (sometimes having to shorten the track rods.) Even in the period where fronts were only 6.5" the arms were modified. I do not believe there is any difference, in this respect, between Hawk or Trigo wheels. I suppose it is possible that there are wheels somewhere with less inset, but I have not come across them and in any case you would then have clearance considerations outboard i.e wheel arch bodywork fouling the tyre.....
At least Olivier your exercise in packing out the hub with washers gives you a good idea how much to displace the ball joint eye on the steering arm when applying your muscles.
-
Sorry, but I wrote rubbish the other day. The machining of the new 15 inch Hawk wheels was to get the correct fit with the spinner and not the hub.
-
I must be the lucky exception as my change to 15" has left the track rod end/steering arm just ( and I mean just) clearing the rim. Like many others I find the 15" vastly superior to the 16" and since having had Big Al fit a front anti roll bar and working his magic on the settings the car is an even greater pleasure to drive.
-
Like Peter my superblower`s track rod ends/steering arms only just about clear the rim without modification. My front rims are Trigo however.
-
I had purchased a new pair of track rod ends / steering arms when I did the restoration on AK 1005 and the parts where straight / without bending. Therefore I believe that the left / right hand part will receive its final form in a second step bending procedure. Bending procedure was provided also as written before, however I got the advice that the parts should receive a polished surface prior to bending in order to avoid cracks. Hope this helps.
-
thanks to all for your answers... a bit off topic, as it wouldn't solve my problem, but there are special track rod ends, with a smaller "head", to clear alloy wheels on MGB :
http://www.ukmgparts.com/product.aspx?CID=854b4533-4f37-4290-9441-2a8d6613b58b&SID=66034a8f-9aac-474f-abd0-e82c3acdc12e&PID=0c3dcc37-43e1-4c71-ab89-dc48ec9de2ca
classic rod end:
(http://ukmgimages.red2.co.uk/44B38EDC-9BFC-4A37-BFA7-21B5ECF464E0.jpg)
the slimer one :
(http://ukmgimages.red2.co.uk/0B7830F5-9CB5-4D94-AB51-20F79FB92C4E.jpg)
-
Hi all,
As the sun finally came out, I found the ressource to dismantle the front axle to take out the steering arms ...
They are hold by three bolts , and the calipers are also attached with them... So I removed those bolts, as well as the wheel outer bearing. I noticed that there are spacers on the three bolts; I was thinking that maybe these spacers can be removed from and refitted behind, in order to add clearance between the steering arm and the wheel... Can it be done ?
Anyway, I will have the steering arm bent ..' The point is that I can't remove the hub, even if the castelled nut and the outer bearing is removed ( see pic). Did I miss something, or the hub should come (using an extractor if needed) ?
(http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/s673/frenchfrie91540/c9d01cbfeabefdf27e8c8d4cb0052b99_zps1e6f77bb.jpg)
(http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/s673/frenchfrie91540/f2f3a6f0076cd755ad2c9251eaea718c_zpse2445a1b.jpg)
I also assume it's a good opportunity to replace the bearings, even though they seem to be in good order ?
-
PS: do not be fooled by the nearly removed rear bolt ... I just thought at first that the whole assembly could be removed this way [:o)] , but that's not my wonder !
-
quote:
Originally posted by French Frie
Hi all,
... The point is that I can't remove the hub, even if the castelled nut and the outer bearing is removed ( see pic). Did I miss something, or the hub should come (using an extractor if needed) ?
Hi Olivier,
normally, you can remove the front hub by hand after removing the nut and the outer bearing (totally different story at rear hubs). If this is not possible you have to use an extractor.
Peter
-
The brake caliper mounts onto that bracket, so removing the spacers would alter the position of the caliper relative to the disc, so you could increase the clearance on the arm, but it would throw the brakes out. Arm-bending it is!
I notice that the track rod has a length of hexagon bar in it to extend the rod out to meet the track rod end, exactly the same as on the Greyhound which uses a Morris Minor rack (L/H drive, fitted upside-down) & Triumph TR4 uprights!
-
thanks for the answers ... but if you refit the spacers between the steering arm and the caliper, you put the caliper at the place it was before, don't you ?
good point regarding the hexa extension, but there's plenty of thread left to be able to set the geo, even when arms will be bent... I assume I'll have to gain about 1 cm at the end of the steering arm to clear the wheel !
-
Oh yes, of course... I was just thinking of removing them. Will they give enough of a mounting face for the caliper? If not, it would be worth machining larger ones to match the original caliper locating points, as you don`t want it able to flex. [:)]
-
the hub has come easily with the extractor :
(http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/s673/frenchfrie91540/320551fe-cad5-4e00-b706-48f19db5d475_zpsfe3fdb1e.jpg)
now the axle is naked :
(http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/s673/frenchfrie91540/IMG_27651024x768_zps11b22c05.jpg)
for the record, the two outer bearings :
(http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/s673/frenchfrie91540/IMG_27721024x768_zps2cef2a98.jpg)
one is NSK (left) , the other is SKF (right), and they both have the LM1949 ref #
so , here are the steering arms :
(http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/s673/frenchfrie91540/IMG_27671024x768_zps3374bfd4.jpg)
(http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/s673/frenchfrie91540/IMG_27681024x768_zps17d6f9f2.jpg)
you can see they're slightly already bent (one more than the other) ...
now, they're en route to the workshop [;)] !
-
Olivier,
to appease you, my arms are much more bent (and of course are not equal) to fit the 15" wheels. And everthing is standard, the car was delivered with 15" wheels.
Peter
-
Ahahah... Thanks Peter, now I'm peaceful [;)] !
The point is that, when you start to dismantle, you're tempted to clean and repaint everything, as well as replacing all the parts ... BTW, as already asked, do you think it's a good opportunity to replace bearing and rod ends ?
-
Rods ends can be replaced, but I cant't see why the bearings should be replaced. Anyway it is a quite simple task for the front hubs.
-
Yep, but apart the expense, it may be possible nowadays to find bearings that are of a lower quality (chinese production especially), even if new, compared to older ones...
Other question : a friend of mine warned me about the fact that bending the arms would modifiy what we call "l'épure de Jeantaud" from a french coachbuilder of the 19th century, modifying the geo values when turning... I'm surprised no one has evocated that ...
Can it be considered as neglectable ? 1 cm for a 15 cm long arm represents about 3,8°, so it doesn't look that much, but...
-
The question is what effect the 3,8° bending has on the length of the steering arm. As you compensate the 1 cm lateral adjustment of the steering arm by adjusting the steering rod accordingly, an effect on the "epure de Jeantaud" arises by the modification of the length of the steering arm, i.e. shortening the radius formed by the steering arm pivoting around the vertical axis of the wheel. A quick empiric test shows that the radius varies by less than 1 mm.
-
Thanks, Constant... So I assume "neglectable" is the appropriate word [;)]!
last wonder : it leaves about 1,5 to 2 cm (circa 0,6/0,8 inch) of thread on each steering rod to adjust the toe-in...I assume it's enough ? if not, can the hexa track rod extension be recutted (i.e. is it threaded on its whole length) ?
-
Olivier .. on your last pictures I can barely see the end of the antiroll bar fitted to your car. Can you get us a better picture thereof? What's the source thereof?
-
it is a bespoke ARB, made by a friend for the bar, and with Austin-Healy 3000 parts for the rods and bushings... I couldn't resign myself to pay thousands of euros (redline or Thunder road)for a common design item [;)] !
very effective, even though we should have bolted it higher on the chassis, as it brought some clearance issues ... but the higher 15" wheels should attenuate this problem !
-
job is done !
(http://staticclub.caradisiac.com/1/voiture-exception/cob-95/photo/349940349/30953358d5/cob-95-wp_20130419_002-img.jpg)
(http://staticclub.caradisiac.com/1/voiture-exception/cob-95/photo/349940349/3095333b2a/cob-95-wp_20130419_001-img.jpg)
(http://staticclub.caradisiac.com/1/voiture-exception/cob-95/photo/349940349/3095336712/cob-95-wp_20130419_003-img.jpg)
-
Now, the parts are back, so I tried to fit them to check the clearance, while I'm also overhauling the front end... It works, even if the clearance remains tight (but less than it may appears in the picture) !
(http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/s673/frenchfrie91540/f4331203b9c81872fea6f8f3f2d1c01d_zpsac2ee715.jpg)
Now I have to finish to brush and repaint the A-arms, the shocks and fit news track rod ends ...
For info, I bent the end of the steering arms by 11 millimeters... And I think that if they were bent a little more, the hexa extensions before the track rod ends could have been removed !
-
work in progress... some good news some bad news !
rust was quite installed even if superficial :
(http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/s673/frenchfrie91540/002cf6563680de53d679ad89199f9ad8_zpse8122f2b.jpg?t=1366748217)
but is now cleaned and parts are treated and painted (epoxy) !
other point: there is some play in one upper joint with some rust as well and no grease ...
(http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/s673/frenchfrie91540/3c2f3c004adcf33aa6e3f5a85be34d26_zpsfc7d59a6.jpg?t=1366748246)
(http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/s673/frenchfrie91540/81d2d1e0683cc3ca57d3c17f3945b573_zpsef8b075a.jpg?t=1366798811)
the point is that I can't feel any play in the rose joint by hand when disassembled so I assume it's in the assembly with the bolt & nut... does anyone know where is that part from? IIRC, Peter replaced them ...
the upper king pin rod end seems to be tired as well ...
(http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/s673/frenchfrie91540/01debe8b5ac93f17dcac960803c37a7e_zps3bba806a.jpg?t=1366798836)
BTW, I'm surprised that there is no greasing point at all on the whole assembly [:0] ! did I miss something ?
-
I just take the rose joint off and measure it up and get replacements here:
http://mcgillmotorsports.co.uk/
They are cheap so get the highest spec ones they have.
I forgot to add that those look like the rose joints that adjust the camber & the castor angle so be careful to mark them up with tipex,or have the castor checked afterwards.
Once the castor is set,you move either side the same ammount to adjust camber.
Graham
-
Yes, I replaced one joint and I bought it from mcgillmotorsports. They are really cheap, I think a little bit too cheap. Maybe you find another source or by the most expensive one they have.
-
The guy at McGill imports them from the states. I spoke to him at length about his business and it grew from being fed up paying high prices when he raced. His mission was to offer good quality at a good price.
So far I have been very happy with them.
Graham
-
Update : i packed up the rose joint and its cover with grease, rebolted the A-arm, and as expected, no more play ! That was really the bolt that wasn't tight enough... Good thing ! But I noticed that there 's some vertical play in the lower ball joint of the king pin... That's not normal , isn't it ?
Other point : now the steering arms are bent, the track rod ends have to be shortened, because they are at full stop, and the arms are not bent enough to suppress the hexagonal extension :( ... So I cutted 11mm on the new track rod ends:
(http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/s673/frenchfrie91540/7cdd2340a911e6a6d909c2cdaa9f5357_zpsd12d4701.jpg)
It doesn't weak the stuff as the whole thread of the extension is still contained in the track rod end... It's a common modification on MGs, documented on Moss website...
-
And why not doing some more threads (11 mm) at the steering rack ends to get the extensions on?
-
Because that's the extension that is already fully locked on the steering rack end [:(] ...
-
Just for fun, here`s what the Greyhound had 50 years ago...
(http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q113/nikbj68/greyhoundfrontsuspension_zpsb218da7e.jpg) (http://"http://s134.photobucket.com/user/nikbj68/media/greyhoundfrontsuspension_zpsb218da7e.jpg.html")
Not too much inward adjustment there either!!!
-
You can cut the end after some more threads have been made to make it adjustable again.
-
here's the "red hair" en route to Magny-cours track, with its 15" wheels and a happy driver [;)]
(http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/s673/frenchfrie91540/puisaye_zps43739f6c.jpg)
-
Oh YEAH!!! That looks fantastic! Congratulations on a job well done!
-
Hello Olivier,
I'm a bit late on that one.
My original Autokraft 15' front wheels (AKL car) were also so close to the arms (factory fit) that it was one of the technical control failure point that the Swiss authorities listed for me.
Another point was that they measured/judged my front track to be 2 mm too narrow and I therefore went for precision machined spacers to solve both problems at once.
Bending the arms sounded scarry...
Alex
-
Failed for 2mm too narrow? What are they, Formula 1 Scrutineers every other weekend?
I would have made the shims 1.1mm each side.... just to show them! Good to hear that you had a solution to 2 problems at once that you were comfortable with!
-
They're crazy. As if there were 45236759236529 ACs around, that they would be involved in accidents everyday due to their front track being too narrow, so that the Swiss Office for Cars would be held for responsible because they'd allowed a handcrafted car that's 2 mm too narrow -
Lucky they haven't seen the spacers otherwise they'd have asked for an Autokraft certificate saying spacers are made by them and allowed on my car.
Go and figure...
Same story with the tires, they had me change from H to V speed index... but you're allowed a maximum 120 km/h on Swiss roads...
They had me fit an air filter housing because of air aspiration noise (???), change rear reflectors for smaller ones because the larger ones didn't have "E" scripture on them... and a lot of other very intelligent modifications...
No wonder why it took nearly 8 months to get the approval.
-
quote:
Originally posted by French Frie
here's the "red hair" en route to Magny-cours track, with its 15" wheels and a happy driver [;)]
Looks fantastic! Enjoy!
-
Thanks, guys [;)] ... I do !