AC Owners Club Forum
AC Owners Club Forum => Mk IV, Superblower, CRS and other Continuation Cars Forum => Topic started by: dkp_cobra on January 17, 2007, 08:26:11
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Has anybody interest in a picture story of how I recreate my MK 4?
Starting from here:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/z6mwnvlpf/IMGP2383.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Now, I am here:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/geb1kahlf/IMGP0274.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I can tell you that it is not possible to remove the boot without cuting it into some pieces (well, not as long as the body is still on the frame).
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Looks like a big job. Are you going to change the color when you restore it? Have you been able to source new interior components? If so, please let us know where. John
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The previous owner modified the complete interior so I will _not_ restore it in it's original state. I will use the Smith instruments (Cobra line) and try to reduce the number of switches and lights.
See here the dashboard currently used:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/t893dfkoj/Dashboard.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Concerning the colour: I don't know. In the SAAC register the car is noted in black with a red interior. Quite nice I think. The previous owner repainted the interior into black. I think of a new black body with a bordeux interior. What's your opinion?
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Make it RED!
What year is your MKIV?
Thank,
AK1131
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Dark red...!!!
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I like black with a dark red interior or silver with black. My car is Mercedes Nautical Blue (medium blue) with a white stripe and black interior.
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Black and black gets my vote, I think your car looks great in the first photo - John.
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I wonder why you like black/black John..? But you have a point. I nearly went down that route on my car - one day maybe...
dkp - as well as being a good source of all Cobra parts, it might be worth contacting Gerry at Hawk Cars. He has just converted a MkIV to 'original' (MkIII-type) specifications, with the advantage of a longer pedal box, with the pedals mounted about 50cm forward and the seat mounted further back. It has a recessed wing-mounted fuel filler, original-style dashboard. The car has MkIV suspension, but with better springs, and the looks of an original - a Mk 3.5 ? I took a couple of photos yesterday and will try to load them here. It could be one of the best, most useable of all Cobras! Maybe. I look forward to trying it out some time soon.
contact: gerry@hawkcars.co.uk or call (UK) 1892 750341
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Could the nose be a "lightweight"?
Linklaw, give me a call...I'm having the interior redone. had the seats re stuffed/restretched. Have a "colorist" cleaning, stripping and redying seats, doors, dash and misc interior parts. Seats are done and you'd never know it sat in CA sunshine...seats look like new!!!
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quote:
Originally posted by dkp_cobra
Has anybody interest in a picture story of how I recreate my MK 4?
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Definitely!
The Dash will certaily benefit from de-cluttering, what other work needs doing?
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The car looks real nice to me in it's current state, like the rims as well !!
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I don't see the point of messing with it! What are you trying to accomplish?
Emmanuel
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Jan, Aren't the rims standard 15 or 16 inch compomotives? Jim
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Those are the 15" rims.
Rick
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I'm really getting fired up about the 15's, I might pick up a set with the Goodyear billboards to alternate once in a while...
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To my eye, the proportions of 15" rims & Fat Rubber is perfection!
DKP Cobra, did your Cobra suffer some damage or is there another reason for your stripdown?
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Hello DKP Cobra,
Where are you located in neighbouring Germany?
Regards
Constant
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It's a quite early MK 4, AK1029 with 15" rims. It has a short nose but it is no light-weight. It was delivered to germany without engine. The first engine was a 351 Cleaveland (I think). The previous owner replaced it in 2000/2001 by a 351 FoMoCo with GT40 heads. Quite nice:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/k5km64pzn/IMGP2818.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
The car had no accident or something like this. The previous owner drove a lot with the car and it was in a very good technical (except electricity) condition. It has Koni adjustable shock absorber (is this normal?) which allows a fantastic ride.
Nevertheless I wasn't happy with the look. The paint has a lot of spiders (is this the correct word?) and the interior was repainted (also the leather) from red to black. So there a three major works:
1) new paint
2) new electricity
3) new interior (including dashboard)
Here is a picture from behind the dashboard. I guess you know what I mean:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/47bwfzo1v/IMGP2659.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Since the body has to be painted it is a good time for some modifications of the body. I would like to close the side rear lamps and the side front turn lights. The tank cap holder doesn't exist. The cap was hold by the hose to the tank:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/yc0d1d8kj/IMGP2864.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
The harnesses are quite ugly. I never saw this kind of mounting in another MK IV:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/g97aa42f7/IMGP2463.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
And there are a lot of small thing I would like to do. For example the first owner replaced the hood handle by some kind of quick mechanism. Now, I try to restore the original hood handle. So going from this:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/5rltsfr2b/IMGP2861.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
to this here:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/71f1tgddf/IMGP2863.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)]
@Constant
I'm living in the north of germany, near to Bremen.
Regards, Peter
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Watch out, it looks like asbestos around the trans tunnel!
Emmanuel
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(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o54/TLegate/Hawk3.jpg )
Enclosed, with luck, is the 'Hawk' MkIV with a MkIII-type body, a sort of Mk3.5, or the best bits from an ex-MkIV with the looks and original-style interior of a MkIII, plus more space in the cockpit for the taller gent.
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Trevor...that is pretty.
germany..I don't believe that material on top of trans tunnel is asbestos...looks like the same type of under rg material that is under all MKIV carpets. you could have it checked..but just wear amask as even if is not , it willgive off a dust thatr irrates lungs.
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Trevor
Looks like a very nice car. Would be very interesting to see the finished vehicle alongside a Mk1V to see the differences. Do you know if the body is a Kirkham or did Gerry create one especially to fit?
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Hi Peter,
I'll stop by next time I'll be in your neighbourhood.
Question to Trevor: what differences are there between a MkIV LW body and the MkIII body?
regards
Constant
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quote:
Originally posted by MkIV Lux
Hi Peter,
I'll stop by next time I'll be in your neighbourhood.
Question to Trevor: what differences are there between a MkIV LW body and the MkIII body?
regards
Constant
About $15,000!!!
Rick
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quote:
Originally posted by Trevor Legate
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o54/TLegate/Hawk3.jpg )
Enclosed, with luck, is the 'Hawk' MkIV with a MkIII-type body, a sort of Mk3.5, or the best bits from an ex-MkIV with the looks and original-style interior of a MkIII, plus more space in the cockpit for the taller gent.
Beautiful car. However I hope Hawk limit this type of exercise to repairing damaged cars, rather than converting perfectly sound MKIVs.
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Naturally that is the intention. I doubt it would be cost effective to 'convert' a perfectly good MkIV and nobody is suggesting they should. But this was a decidedly ex-MkIV that might well have been scrapped. Rather than throw it away, it can be adapted into this style of car, if the owner wishes. Or not. It was also an exercise in trying to make a 'Cobra' that would accomodate a taller driver. It still has an AK chassis number and the work carried out will be recorded in the MkIV registry. Gerry Hawkridge has no problem with the MkIV - he owns one!
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WOW !!, that car looks absolutely beautiful with the brushed aluminum, if I ever in the next 20 years need a paint job, that will be it (or lack of !!)
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This looks like a Kirkham body, my car was brushed aluminum just like that! A pain to keep clean! [:)] Emmanuel
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I think most of you MK IV drivers know the problem of changing brake fluid since the space between the brake fluid reservoir and the fender is really small. So I plan to relocate the brake fluid reservoir.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/64d7yoehv/IMGP2867.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Here you can see the result. Now it is possible to use flexibe brakelines with a normal Dash 4 fitting. I think something similar is used in the lightweight versions, right?
Here is the picture putting all together. The bolts will be replaced by stainless steel versions.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/4pbn9y5oz/IMGP2868.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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slick idea...it made me go back and look at MKV photos...malta had the same idea!!! It appears you are using the same cylinder assembly, but relocate the plastic resevour only?
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quote:
Originally posted by jbottini
slick idea...it made me go back and look at MKV photos...malta had the same idea!!! It appears you are using the same cylinder assembly, but relocate the plastic resevour only?
Yes, that's correct. For the backside it was no problem, because the gasket is part of the brake master cylinder thus I needed only a plate. But the front was more complex because there I had to make a cone.
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Ok, here it goes on.
The brackets for the bonnet handles are missing:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/e9v9wvsgz/IMGP2874.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
So I made new ones from stainless steel.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/e9v9wvkr7/IMGP2875.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
After fitting them they are waiting for the welding profi (well, that's not me).
(https://s19.postimg.cc/5rltsjto3/IMGP2876.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Can anybody explain me the purpose of these cutouts? Has it something to do with the heater?
(https://s19.postimg.cc/pdaaoobhv/IMGP2912.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
The picture is made from below the gear tunnel.
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Good question. The cut outs look very crude so it is unlikely that it was done by the Autokraft factory as the quality of their workmanship (even in the places you cannot normally see) is usually immaculate. Judging by the dashboard one of its previous owners had done quite a few modifications. Only possibility I can think of is that it could have been a radio mount hole - though there would be very little clearance to fit a radio here.
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dkp, any chance of a pic from the top?
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ok, here comes a picture from top.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/7br5qswvn/IMGP2920.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
The rectangular hole is _not_ for the radio because the gear box is directly below this hole. I doubt that one of the previous owner made it because it is a professional cut-out (you can't see it on the picture).
One of the round holes was used for the speedo shaft.
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hi Peter,
never a dull moment with a Cobra...
I have digitised the spare tire insert (boot, trunk) to get it laser cut from aluminium.
Funny enough, it is cheaper now than a glassfibre part...
I can mail you the file for a little fee :-)
Dominik
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quote:
Originally posted by Dominik
hi Peter,
never a dull moment with a Cobra...
I have digitised the spare tire insert (boot, trunk) to get it laser cut from aluminium.
Funny enough, it is cheaper now than a glassfibre part...
I can mail you the file for a little fee :-)
Dominik
Hi Dominik,
thank you for the offer, but I think that you have the plan for the MK III style boot. The early MK IV boot looks totally different. This can't be rebuild with aluminium due to the many concavities.
Regards, Peter
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Here are some news. After some weeks spending at the welding expert I have a new fitting for the petrol cap:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/tdhg101zn/IMGP2975.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
The holes for the side rear lights and the sight signal lights are closed:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/oetxmgir7/IMGP2974.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
and there are no holes for these small rubbers for the front hood:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/fjt3by1oj/IMGP2977.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
The problem with the original solution is that it is hard to find replacement for the rubbers and that the water is dripping into the tube.
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FYI, I think the small rubber stoppers are from a Ford Capri fuel filler flap, they have a long "tail" which needs to be cut to length
John.
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quote:
Originally posted by cobham cobra
FYI, I think the small rubber stoppers are from a Ford Capri fuel filler flap, they have a long "tail" which needs to be cut to length
John.
Thank you John, but it is to late for me [:)]
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Cobham cobra, can I convince yoy to obtain ten of these for me. i'll advance the check for puchase and feight of couse..Just advise price. these are unobtainium components here. Jim
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Hi Jim,
They are unobtainium here as well, I was lucky to find a few. I plan to go to a couple of cars show during the next few months and I'm happy to look for more, but don't hold your breath :)
Cheers - John.
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appreciate your help
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This will be the new fuel filler cap.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/k8dokdntf/IMGP2997.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
The rear view mirror. Not that plastic thing plugged at the windscreen as it was before.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/3xdko2j1f/IMGP3001.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Does anybody want to know what is inside your seats?
(https://s19.postimg.cc/kxwgwr3sj/IMGP2999.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
It is unbelievable that it is unpainted steel. These cars were sold for 300000 DM in the eighties and they didn't paint the steel inside the seats. They are quite rusty.
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Now, without paint just polished. I think they are much nicer now.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/700z60y2b/IMGP3005.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Do you think it is a good idea to make a boot out of board? It is cheap and easy to work with. [:)]
(https://s19.postimg.cc/6n9kzuv83/IMGP3007.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/o0jvepitf/IMGP3009.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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The seats are modified and painted. I plan not to use the head rest. It was a dis-construction. The elastic straps at the back of the seat weren't able to work because the slider for the head rest stopped your back.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/4ip7ysogj/IMGP3031.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/co79wy4zn/IMGP3030.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Do you want to have a look inside your tank? I found a washer inside [:0]
(https://s19.postimg.cc/odb9kwo8j/IMGP3028.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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If you only found a washer, you were lucky! We had a lot of trouble with aluminum particles in the tanks clogging fuel filters on the early cars. Some in as little as 200 miles.
Rick
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Hi,
here are some news. I don't know why but one wall of my drivers footbox was missing.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/g7t7msaab/IMGP3055.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
It was covered by something made of aluminium.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/ha3e5c0tf/IMGP3056.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I used this aluminium as a negative form to build a GRP part.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/9hcqdd2k3/IMGP3057.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/gkklszfpf/IMGP3058.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
This part was fitted to the missing wall.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/ue8yi1g0j/IMGP3061.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Now, if have a closed footbox. I guess I take some advantages when driving in rain [:)]
(https://s19.postimg.cc/my9ow900z/IMGP3062.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/co79x0hv7/IMGP3070.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
In the meantime I restored an old switch indicator. These are the parts I already painted:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/4vgm51jlv/IMGP3071.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/w61xcyu8j/IMGP3072.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/hzm6hqr37/IMGP3074.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/82b5oor77/IMGP3076.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Like a new one [:I]
(https://s19.postimg.cc/7qtpbc2v7/IMGP3077.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/usaah3a8j/IMGP3078.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Hi,
The rear fender protectors look great polished, how did you clean them up like that? Mine have small pits, knicks, etc. and I would really like to freshen them up, any ideas??
Jan
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Jan, sorry to butt in , but Flitz or Meguirs metal polish will clean them incredibly. You could then clear coat, but that defeats the sacrifical purpose and makes another job. The pits, dents, dings scrathes (deep ones)will have to be filled. As this is SS (I think0 it would be tedious and time consuming. try Flitz first...when bright, the "spats" blemishes seem to fade. jim
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As the spats are stainless, pits can be sanded out starting with 180 grit and progressing to 1500 or so, best done wet. They may then be polished. Jim is right, when they are bright some of the flaws disappear in the glare!
Rick
Edited for fat-finger spelling...
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Here are some pictures of my progress working on the new boot. It is totally unbelievable for me how much time this costs. And if I have a pattern for the one side it doesn't fit the other side ...
(https://s19.postimg.cc/9ve2cjmj7/IMGP3079.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/l7qnuc2xv/IMGP3081.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/hbdbycpo3/IMGP3087.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/8gchnu8lf/IMGP3088.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/p43zqb8hv/IMGP3089.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/xmdfuopb7/IMGP3091.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/ho4q4jndf/IMGP3092.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/ccptjugqb/IMGP3093.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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The boot is finished:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/5m9cafw5f/IMGP3114.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/yonmd9apf/IMGP3113.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/kuz9o7xjn/IMGP3116.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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incedibly nice work
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Dear me!
This is no mean feat!
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Back from holiday I removed the color. Oh dear, the terror is below the coat.
Here, everything looks perfect.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/7qtpbkfsj/IMGP0980.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
But what happened here?
(https://s19.postimg.cc/k5ghbwmqb/IMGP0982.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/5m9cahlvn/IMGP0983.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Has anybody an explanation for that? The previous owner had no accident. Maybe the first owner. But is doesn't look like an accident. It looks like the same awful weldseam as it was used for the filler cap. And that was covered by the original body filler.
Is it possible that beside the real good craft men at Autokraft also some rookies were used for some welding work? It nearly looks like that. Maybe someone of you knows that.
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Brian Angliss would have sacked anyone at Autokraft who did work that looked like that! I suggest the scoop was bent by a previous owner and "repaired" by someone with no aluminum welding skills!
That is NOT factory work!
Perhaps you should contact Brooklands Motor and get a replacement lower panel. The shape of that peice is wrong, it is bent up and the scoop opening is all wrong. you can fix it but a new piece might be easier.
rick
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I totally agree with MkIV and can categorically state that the disaster seen above had nothing to do with Autokraft. I doubt it could have been made by human hands. Brooklands have what you seek....
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I think the first owner had an accident (and a bad welder). Look here:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/x9m1onjxv/IMGP3123.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
This is how it should look like (picture comes from Steve Gray from www.brooklandsmotorcompany.co.uk (http://www.brooklandsmotorcompany.co.uk). Thank you). Now, my welder has to decide what to do.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/yonmdcxvn/100_1096.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
In the meantime I prepared the new dashboard.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/eha6l2843/IMGP3119.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
The two round holes below are for a socket and the warning light switch. The other slot is necessary for the steering look.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/xz4u10crn/IMGP3121.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Although the position for the glove box is identical to the old position I thought it may be a good idea to test whether it still fits. Well, it did't fit. It was to deep. Thus I had to cut it and modify it a little bit.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/vukgzy603/IMGP3126.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I used board for modelling the shape:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/6ojit4cfn/IMGP3127.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
This is the (previous) result after removing the board model. The next step is sanding and sealing it with a layer of resin.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/iqewn9tdv/IMGP3129.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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quote:
Originally posted by dkp_cobra
...The previous owner had no accident. Maybe the first owner. But is doesn't look like an accident...
OK, so Mum & Dad have gone on holiday & you know where the keys are hidden. [}:)]
You take a spin to meet your mates and roar up to the kerb...a little too close to the kerb, erm...actually on the kerb. You barely hear the scraping noise over the sound of the V8 burble...And the hissing sound of 15 pals` sharp intake of breath. [:0]
Ooops. [xx(]
The local bodyshop say "We can fix it by Friday for £200, but it`s gonna be a bodge. BUT....Daddy will never know." [:o)]
You have to take an evening job right through the summer to pay off the bank loan, but Daddy never found out.
*(OK, it was a Volvo, not a Cobra, and there was no V8 burble, but maybe the rest of the above is a teensy, weensy bit true and happened to a 16 year old who is now nearly 40!)
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quote:
Originally posted by nikbj68
quote:
Originally posted by dkp_cobra
...The previous owner had no accident. Maybe the first owner. But is doesn't look like an accident...
OK, so Mum & Dad have gone on holiday & you know where the keys are hidden. [}:)]
You take a spin to meet your mates and roar up to the kerb...a little too close to the kerb, erm...actually on the kerb. You barely hear the scraping noise over the sound of the V8 burble...And the hissing sound of 15 pals` sharp intake of breath. [:0]
Ooops. [xx(]
The local bodyshop say "We can fix it by Friday for £200, but it`s gonna be a bodge. BUT....Daddy will never know." [:o)]
You have to take an evening job right through the summer to pay off the bank loan, but Daddy never found out.
*(OK, it was a Volvo, not a Cobra, and there was no V8 burble, but maybe the rest of the above is a teensy, weensy bit true and happened to a 16 year old who is now nearly 40!)
[:)] Nice story. Sounds a little bit like Tom Cruise in "Risky Business".
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This is the look of the professional work from Brooklands Motor Company:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/59hy4f67n/IMGP3134.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
observe the quality of the weld
(https://s19.postimg.cc/xz4u12hxf/IMGP3135.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I think this is still the best way to mount your number plate. No holes in the boot lid are necessary:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/np2f1tcmb/IMGP3131.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(the white film covers the polished stainless steel)
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Why not just use double sided foam tape to mount the rear number plate?
Keep up the great work with your thread I'm enjoying following your progress.
Cheers - John.
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Why not just use double sided foam tape to mount the rear number plate?
too easy 8)
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When I open my doors they swing fast until they are stopped by the frame. Look here:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/irougd2tv/IMGP3151.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
That's not good for the frame and especially not for the body. I recognized in another MK IV that the doors didn't swing themselve but one have to push them. Has anybody an idea how this works?
Otherwise I have the following solution:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/bbpkuk7er/IMGP3149.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Now, the doors don't smash against the frame metal-to-metal.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/eik4e77ab/IMGP3152.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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After painting the glove box:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/kw97hhu6r/IMGP3174.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
well, it doesn't look new but I think it's ok for something you won't see it again.
My seats are finished. Here is what the saddler did:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/4l93l6per/IMGP3175.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
No head rest anymore:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/72kusgh0z/IMGP3176.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Fantastic restoration by a true perfectionist,please keep posting.
Paul.[:)]
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Please post more of your project, this will give all IV owners a look at how our cars are built, an a good view of area's that we are unable to see !
Thank You for your posting labors!
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Currently, I am waiting for my welder to attach the new ait sccop. Here is a picture of the current status:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/7fc8ynmg3/IMGP3199.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/bbpkunf5f/IMGP3200.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
In the meantime I had a look at my axles to check the power coating. These are the parts which should be renewed:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/irougfnf7/IMGP3195.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I had the impression that it is not good to have a powder coating for the differential mounting bracket. I removed the powder coating (well, at least what was still there):
(https://s19.postimg.cc/r9yaksh37/IMGP3201.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Next time it will be painted with a special paint for chassis.
Now, here comes the riddle of the weekend: how should this fit?
(https://s19.postimg.cc/eik4eaf0z/IMGP3203.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I tried it from the side:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/4y0hrexer/IMGP3204.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/d3ijpktdf/IMGP3205.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
And yes, it worked:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/z2oycshxf/IMGP3206.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
The brakes before reconditioning:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/4l93l92ab/IMGP3217.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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The brakes after sandblasting:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/rmpor1c8j/IMGP3220.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
The powder coat cannot be removed with sand blasting. But in the oven with 350°C the powder burns. Terrible look:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/ndkyovgoz/IMGP3221.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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The air scoop is welded to the body. I think it is quite nice. Totally different look now. Today, we delivered the cobra to the painter.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/xnndo5war/IMGP3222.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/r9yakwz4j/IMGP3224.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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The brakes after painting before assembling:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/9jwlzxb9v/IMGP3226.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Of course all pots will be replaced. Some of the old ones are quite rusty. Here a family photo the old and the new ones:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/7s3n50zmr/IMGP3227.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Now, they are finished and wait for the rest of the car:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/9wo0648z7/IMGP3228.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Hi Peter,
I am also living near Bremen and just this week bought my MK IV Cobra with an very early number - AK 1005 - the car came from Switzerland and was I think originally red.
Would love if we could meet and maybe you could help me going through the same pain you go through - looks like a big job!
Heinz
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While I am waiting that my painter starts with his job I have some time on my hands to do small jobs like this one. Do you also think that it is time to replace the dust cover for the front ball joints ?
(https://s19.postimg.cc/ndkyp23w3/IMGP3235.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Those from the jaguar axle xj6/xj12 fits quite good. See here:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/gad39g66b/IMGP3237.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/8udtnnq6r/IMGP3238.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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If you want to use exhaust thermo wrap like this one:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/5nja428bn/IMGP3252.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
you should first paint the exhaust with a special exhaust color:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/60aoa8ivn/IMGP3251.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Otherwise you get rust under the wrap from the condensed water:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/r9yal2rgj/IMGP3240.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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In the painter shop:
do you like it in yellow with some strips?
(https://s19.postimg.cc/zfgcj9iab/IMG_0780.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
or black and white:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/tra1sdlnn/IMG_0786.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
or in pure white:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/xnndodm2r/IMG_0793.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
this is also nice:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/jtz0zblrn/IMG_0799.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Great work I'm looking forward to seeing the end result.
I assume you will paint it black........? :)
John.
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Hi John,
yes, at the end it will be black with two layers of clear coat.
Regards, Peter
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Here is my idea for heat protection in the motor bay: I want to use these polished stainless steel shields
(https://s19.postimg.cc/o33r1irlv/IMGP3262.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
The real polished side is under the white protection foil. On the backside of the shield (facing the glass fibre of the foot boxes) a 1.5 mm layer of silicate fiber should also protect:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/ofv57phlf/IMGP3263.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
The stone guards have again there leather piping. After gluing one and a half I had to detect that they have different length [:(!]
(https://s19.postimg.cc/7fc8z1c9v/IMGP3264.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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It is unbelievable how much time it costs to cover these small items with leather:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/48hpfezjn/IMGP3265.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/3vqb98ozn/IMGP3266.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
And at the end nobody will see it:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/nqccvdbwz/IMGP3268.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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quote:
Originally posted by dkp_cobra
It is unbelievable how much time it costs to cover these small items with leather...And at the end nobody will see it...
But YOU will know it`s right. [;)]Did it take as long to finish the Sudoku, or did you do that whilst the glue dried?[:D]
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It is unbelievable how much time it costs to cover these small items with leather...And at the end nobody will see it...
But YOU will know it`s right. [;)]Did it take as long to finish the Sudoku, or did you do that whilst the glue dried?[:D]
The Sudoku was an easy one. The glue takes something between 10 and 15 minutes [:)]
Here is the last step before next week the car is been painted in the real colour:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/kjhtbr6wj/IMGP1570.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Impressive job you are doing. Have you seen this site on header wraps? (http://www.centuryperformance.com/heatwraps.asp)
Seems like sound advice.quote:
Originally posted by dkp_cobra
If you want to use exhaust thermo wrap like this one:
(http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r138/dkp_cobra/Cobra/IMGP3252.jpg)
you should first paint the exhaust with a special exhaust color:
(http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r138/dkp_cobra/Cobra/IMGP3251.jpg)
Otherwise you get rust under the wrap from the condensed water:
(http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r138/dkp_cobra/Cobra/IMGP3240.jpg)
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quote:
Originally posted by ANF289
... Have you seen this site on header wraps? (http://www.centuryperformance.com/heatwraps.asp)
Seems like sound advice...
VERY interesting reading, and it does seem to make sense... I think EmmanuelD would agree with the benefits (HERE) (http://"http://www.racecar.co.uk/acoc/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=258"), but has anyone noted the downsides?
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Indeed, an interesting article. But I got the impression that asking three experts about "to wrap of not to wrap" you get four different answers.
My aim is not to get more power but to keep the footboxes cool. Since it's a standard Windsor 351 FoMoCo with GT40 heads I don't expect that the headers get really hot (not red).
My headers are standard and not quite expensive. So I dare the experiment that they will destroyed.
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They may get red hot under the header tape. Never know unless you measure it. The data provided are convincing enough for me to unwrap mine. I doubt that anyone has the data to prove that they won't be damaged. But good luck, and I hope it is many years before you have the answer to your experiment!
quote:
Originally posted by dkp_cobra
Indeed, an interesting article. But I got the impression that asking three experts about "to wrap of not to wrap" you get four different answers.
My aim is not to get more power but to keep the footboxes cool. Since it's a standard Windsor 351 FoMoCo with GT40 heads I don't expect that the headers get really hot (not red).
My headers are standard and not quite expensive. So I dare the experiment that they will destroyed.
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Although the dashboard was covered with leather by a professional person I spent some additional hours to cut the holes for the instruments and switches. But most of the time I spent for adjusting the lid of the glove box. The leather has a different thickness than before so everything must be changed. Here is the result:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/4l93lms43/IMGP3273.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
And for those of you who want to know how it looks inside the rear wheels:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/hcn9s59lv/IMGP3274.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/t1r9g48ab/IMGP3276.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/o33r1lc77/IMGP3277.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/cdzrdmsyb/IMGP3280.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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While I am waiting that the car is painted I have some time so solve tiny little problems.
Question: How can you connect the switch knob with the cable?
(https://s19.postimg.cc/gad39n8sz/IMGP3282.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Answer: by making small little adapters with two threads.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/kw97hzmmb/IMGP3283.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Now the knob can be screwed onto the cable.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/o33r1mmhv/IMGP3285.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Ingeneous. Maybe a grubscrew would be more discreet than the big cheesehead though?
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Thank you for your continued and detailed posting of the re-building of your car. I find it really interesting to see how our cars were built and what they look like under the skin. Your contribution to the forum is much appreciated, but why no sudoku with the latest photos ?[:)][:)]
When do you expect to have you car back on the road ?
Cheers - John.
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Here are some new photos. The car is nearly finished. The doors need a second clear coat.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/8j0yoetwz/IMGP1660.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/q92n9fzs3/IMGP1659.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/73zdzp0jn/IMGP1658.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
But the bonnets are finished and look perfect:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/cs5oqkhqr/IMGP1662.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I have no time plan for this project but I guess that the car will be finished when the open-car season ends [B)]
Maybe one week early if I don't spend time for further Sudokus [:D]
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I really hope you get time to enjoy the Cobra on the road soon, and thanks for sharing your restoration with us!
-
I guess it is not quite interesting to see the mounting of emblems but it is the first mounting step in my restauration project [:)]
(https://s19.postimg.cc/98jr0vx2b/IMGP3289.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/v7q5o3lmb/IMGP3290.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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quote:
Originally posted by ANF289
They may get red hot under the header tape. Never know unless you measure it. The data provided are convincing enough for me to unwrap mine. I doubt that anyone has the data to prove that they won't be damaged. But good luck, and I hope it is many years before you have the answer to your experiment!quote:
Originally posted by dkp_cobra
Indeed, an interesting article. But I got the impression that asking three experts about "to wrap of not to wrap" you get four different answers.
My aim is not to get more power but to keep the footboxes cool. Since it's a standard Windsor 351 FoMoCo with GT40 heads I don't expect that the headers get really hot (not red).
My headers are standard and not quite expensive. So I dare the experiment that they will destroyed.
The goal is to keep the heat out of the car's foot wells. Wrapping is done all the time in racing. Maybe you could shorten the life of your headers to some extend, but I have not heard anything about that. Benefits are first and foremost a substantial reduction of heat in the engine compartment and on the inside of the car. An increase in heat inside the exhaust makes for a more complete combustion and a reduction in emissions since the exhaust is more thoroughly burnt. Some racers claim an increase in power. Ceramic coating is usually done on both sides of the tubing to reduce radiant heat on the outside and increase heat inside the exhaust. Ceramic coating greatly increases the lifespan of the exhaust by reducing heat and corrosion on the parts.
Nice car by the way![:)]
Emmanuel
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dkp-cobra,
let me know if you want the reassembly instructions for those rear hubs ... I had purchased a new kit to fix mine and have a step by step tutorial sent to me from the factory.
Ron
PS if we could post pics and attachements here I would ...but cant.
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quote:
Originally posted by ak1234
dkp-cobra,
let me know if you want the reassembly instructions for those rear hubs ... I had purchased a new kit to fix mine and have a step by step tutorial sent to me from the factory.
Ron
PS if we could post pics and attachements here I would ...but cant.
Ron, did you get my e-mail?
Regards, Peter
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It's back home. Now, the work can start.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/anlbpnvlf/IMGP1789.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/e779fh60z/IMGP1791.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/s0vm4j6c3/IMGP1792.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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It's been very entertaining following the progress of your restoration, Lets hope it is firing on all cylinders and makes its debut at The ACOC International at the fabulous " Bayerischer Wald National Park " on September 10th / 14th 2008. Organised by Heiner Schaefer....... more details contact Tony Michaels ACOC Chairman.
email tonmich2002 at yahoo dot co dot uk
Usually have about 30 / 40 or more ACs present from all over Europe.
I must agree with John Norris and Sam Smart Cobras and Aces look the Dogs B******s dressed in BLACK ! there again I could be biased as BEX333 is.... yes. .... Stunning in Black.
Keith
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Where are we? The boot is mounted:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/98jr0zk8j/IMGP3316.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/b0cpvwj0z/IMGP3319.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/5c6f50meb/IMGP3320.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/4mnmsntkj/IMGP3321.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/ui7dbv343/IMGP3323.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
The front axle is mounted together with the steering rack:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/49w8mhyg3/IMGP3328.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Some small stuff quite useful when you want to stop your car:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/kxnqozlhv/IMGP3327.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
The reason why it takes so much time is that making the small rubbers is time intensive:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/goj0ms083/IMGP3313.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/5c6f4zjtf/IMGP3314.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(this here is the bezel of the boot from below: also underlayed with rubber)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/sdn0ar6mb/IMGP3318.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Today, I tried to mount the beast: the differential. Do you know these thoughts that you have to do more in the gym when you try to lift a Jag differential? Well, it is quite heavy. Look here:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/xcaipdpvn/IMGP3331.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
And this is the weight without the wood (and it is dry). Not an easy job if you are alone and do <u>not</u> have a differential lifter. I used a combination of a hydraulic car jack and a cran for the motor:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/ejynlt8wz/IMGP3333.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/wmrqd1k77/IMGP3336.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
One special thing is that the frame is too small for the differential so it must be tilted:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/uuyri4t4j/IMGP3335.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
But the worst thing was to tighten the screws on top of the differential. There was not enough space to do the job:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/qylfm5nkj/IMGP3339.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
But it was even more pain to fix the safetly wire:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/nrqw2i89f/IMGP3340.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
If you think "why hasn't he done this before the diff was lifted up", well this was also my thought but the upper mount bracket has to much play so the correct position can only be fixed after the diff is mounted.
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Maybe some of you lost some badges. Look here if you can find it:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/9y2jdid43/100_2148.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/8vscuz9qb/100_2149.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/fm8u4ep6b/100_2150.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/4mnmste6r/100_2151.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
If you need anything of this please contact Steve Gray from Brooklands Motor Company (http://"http://www.brooklandsmotorcompany.co.uk")
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I've probably missed it, can some one provide an email address for Brooklands motor company as above? thanks, Jim
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thank god for the search button: steve@brooklandsmotorcompany.co.uk
Jim
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Do you remember my idea of heat protection in the motor bay: polished stainless steel with a thin layer of silicate. To make it short: it doesn't work. There is no isolation of the heat. Now, I use a 10 mm thick heat protection fibre with a aluminium layer:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/6ecigewb7/IMGP3345.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/cfa7dhqn7/IMGP3346.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
But be sure this is not the last word about heat [:D]
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Nice! What about a nice Qaife differential. I put one in my Kirkham and the car stayed on the road. It depends how strong your motor will be! but if you have anywhere in excess of 450hp this would make a big difference! Also Kirkham makes a reproduction of the original Cobra diff erential in alloy! Pricey but you save quite a bit of weight!
Emmanuel[:)]
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quote:
Originally posted by Emmanueld
Nice! What about a nice Qaife differential. I put one in my Kirkham and the car stayed on the road. It depends how strong your motor will be! but if you have anywhere in excess of 450hp this would make a big difference! Also Kirkham makes a reproduction of the original Cobra diff erential in alloy! Pricey but you save quite a bit of weight!
Emmanuel[:)]
Hi Emmanuel,
thank you for the advice but mounting this differential was such a big work that I won't repeat it in the near future [B)] The motor is much less hp than 400. It is a standard FoMoCo 351 crate engine with GT40 heads.
Regards, Peter
-
When the rear hubs were originaly mounted a hole was drilled through the bolt into the axle shaft and a splint was used to fix the bolt relative to the axle shaft:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/gbnj9kr37/IMGP3355.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Quite simple and efficient but with the drawback that once you remove the bolt you will never get the same position to reuse the old hole in the axle shaft (well, if you use it you may probably won't have the correct end float). Drilling a new hole results in an axle shaft looking like a swiss cheese.
My idea for a mechanical locking of the bolt looks like this:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/5otq45qnn/IMGP3356.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I reused the old hole and look the washer with a grub screw to the axle shaft. I flattened two sides of the washer so I can use the looking plates (left in the picture) between the washer and the bolt.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/ejukeon5v/IMGP3358.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Now, the bolt can be tightened up and be looked with the looking plate towards the washer. And the washer is looked via the grub screw towards the axle shaft. If I have to reopen the axle I only have to replace the looking plate. And I have a lot of these [:)]
(https://s19.postimg.cc/qyhcf0u3n/IMGP3359.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Since I replaced the old boot by a new one made of aluminium I need something as inner fender. I reused parts of the old boot for this.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/49s5fgkfn/IMGP3361.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Before mounting I use something for noise reduction in the case that the boot beats against the inner fender:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/qyhcf0mdv/IMGP3360.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/pjfrqb8g3/IMGP3362.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Today I mounted the plates in the floor. I was afraid that the old holes won't fit but it was quite easy.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/k80v5lu37/IMGP3365.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/61l4adqxv/IMGP3368.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/98fnu0j3n/IMGP3370.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Maybe some of you is interested in having a look inside the joint of the lower wishbone of the rear axle:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/98fnu33oz/IMGP3373.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Not so many parts but it is quite important that they have enough grease. But if you push to much grease inside this joint the rubber gasket will be (partially) pushed outside the joint. That's the beginning of the end of the rubber gaskets.
-
Here you can see the mounting brackets for the oil cooler:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/xoxtonrlv/IMGP2683.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Quite simple but with the major drawback that the airflow is not forced to pass the oil cooler and even if it passes it the warm air goes through the water cooler. You can see this at Michael MK IV:
(http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn255/1984MkIV/100_0936.jpg)
What you need is an oil cooler shroud. Here is what I made:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/mcl86uo1v/IMGP3381.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/61l4ajypf/IMGP3382.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
... and from below ...
(https://s19.postimg.cc/w9w8zxb37/IMGP3383.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/o4e71rf4j/IMGP3384.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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I think you should be very careful about what you post on forum. Posting photos of your oil cooler shroud could lead to requests for copies from other members.[:D][:D]
Once again very nice work, I'm looking forward to seeing your car when it's finished.
FYI, check the way your fan is wired when you re-fit it, I've only recently found out that mine was incorrectly wired when it was built and for the last 17 years it has been blowing hot air out of the air intake instead of sucking cold air into the engine bay.[:(]
Cheers - John.
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Peter,
you should add an oil cooler mesh to your shroud. I think the highest risk for your engine isn´t the oil temperatur but stones causing a leaking oil cooler (On the other hand a leaking oil cooler helps to protect against rust). I had problems with the water temperature because of a wrong installed valve. I then could notice that the water temperature boosted rapidly when I was on full throttle. 333 kW in combination with an efficiency factor of 30% lead to 0,777 MW of heat! I never had any problems with the oil temperature. Good luck to beat the heat!
Michael
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John.
Must check the wiring on mine to make sure I have not been driving a Supersucker all these years.
-
John.
Must check the wiring on mine to make sure I have not been driving a Supersucker all these years.
Do you recognize a slowdown when the blower switch on [:)] Since this is the status of my wiring loom I will make a new one from the scratch:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/xdgdbx60z/IMGP3390.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Today, I mounted the tank. Look at the nice "discreet" filler cap [:)]
(https://s19.postimg.cc/6sdugedyb/IMGP3387.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/rpa2l2joz/IMGP3388.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
You can see the petrol when you fill it:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/50kvlia0z/IMGP3389.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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FYI, be careful how you secure the breather pipe for the fuel tank. I learnt this to my cost last April my car deposited a couple of litres of Mr. Shell's finest unleaded in the boot . We found out afterwards that the breather tube had developed a kink or pinch point where it had been secured and over time it became blocked. I only found out when I filled the tank on a sunny day and as the fuel warmed up in the tank it expanded and could not "breath" and it forced a leak at the filler cap connection. A simple case of over tight zip ties.
Cheers - John.
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quote:
Originally posted by cobham cobra
FYI, be careful how you secure the breather pipe for the fuel tank. I learnt this to my cost last April my car deposited a couple of litres of Mr. Shell's finest unleaded in the boot . We found out afterwards that the breather tube had developed a kink or pinch point where it had been secured and over time it became blocked. I only found out when I filled the tank on a sunny day and as the fuel warmed up in the tank it expanded and could not "breath" and it forced a leak at the filler cap connection. A simple case of over tight zip ties.
Cheers - John.
John, thank you for this information. I will look at it.
Cheers, Peter
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Today I mounted the louvers and some mesh for the oil cooler and for the side air intake.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/jwjet5ivn/IMGP3391.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/6sdugh69f/IMGP3392.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/br1cv02cj/IMGP3393.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
It took 3 and a half hour. If you ask me why it took so long, the answer is quite simple. I had to cut out the correct parts from a huge mesh. This was quite fast. I wanted to mount the mesh with some small bolts not gluing it at the body. To get the correct look of the bolts I use stainless steel bolts and polish the heads [:I]
(https://s19.postimg.cc/vlneh4wzn/IMGP3395.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(FYI, there is only one bolt. The second is the mirror image! A great job of the painter)
Also making these small things here takes time:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/rcioez1g3/IMGP3396.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Peter,
why making the effort for a new wiring; your wiring looks pretty good compared to british standard ... [:)][:D][;)] ...
It´s a pity not to see you in Duesseldorf on 21st and 22nd of June!
Michael
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Peter,
why making the effort for a new wiring; your wiring looks pretty good compared to british standard ... [:)][:D][;)] ...
It´s a pity not to see you in Duesseldorf on 21st and 22nd of June!
Michael
Hi Michael,
for my first Cobra restauration (a KCC kit car from south africa) I made this wiring loom:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/644zx7mvn/IMGP1956.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
No problems with electricity anymore [8D]
Regards, Peter
-
DPK, can you provide the Jaguar part number for the the suspension boots please? Thanks, JBottini
-
quote:
Originally posted by jbottini
DPK, can you provide the Jaguar part number for the the suspension boots please? Thanks, JBottini
Hi Jim,
I ordered them at Limora (http://"http://www.limora.com/index/lang-2/lkz-176/markenid-2/katnr-29/kat_sprache-2/hrubnr-1133/rubrik-2901/index.php?tpl=clickable_vertikal.tpl&artikeldetailtop=-500") part number 201003. (click "Limora")
Regards, Peter
-
Thanks, will these part numbers cross reference at a US Jag store? Jim
-
Sorry, I have no idea. But I am quite sure that if you go to your next Jaguar garage with the picture they can identify the part. It's from a XJ6.
Regards, Peter
-
Today, I mounted my rear hubs. I measured the torque necessary to start the rotation of the hub <u>without</u> tighten the bolt (0,345 N/m). Using different shims I detect the thickness of the washer s.t. there is no clearance of the hub to the wheel but also that the torque to rotate the hub is not greater than before.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/ht8zleqrn/IMGP3398.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
If I leave one shim (0.1 mm) out the torque is at least 3 times higher than normal.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/dwvnpfdhv/IMGP3399.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
This would destroy your bearings quite fast.
Here you can see the old washer (right) and the new one (left). The old one was made out of St37. It was quite soft. You can see the flutes from the shims. The new one is made of C45. Much stronger and the thickness is correct so I need no shims anymore.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/3zkmwddlv/IMGP3401.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
-
Peter, thanks for the help with the linora dust cover part number. How about the make and pn for the heim joints covers, sperical shaped with protruding or normal holes in them? Jim
-
quote:
Originally posted by jbottini
Peter, thanks for the help with the linora dust cover part number. How about the make and pn for the heim joints covers, sperical shaped with protruding or normal holes in them? Jim
Jim, I order the heim joints cover at a racing shop in germany:
isa-racing (http://"http://www.isa-racing.de/20082/webseiten/seite-283.htm")
I don't think that this link is useful for you but I have no more information.
Regards, Peter
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Peter, thanks. the race car shop was the tip I needed as there are plenty of them here as well. i thought they were Old Jag parts from the thread. jim
-
Today I start mounting the plates for the cooler and the air cooler. It is not so easy to get new egde protection in these small curves:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/sg2sqvon7/IMGP3407.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/6tns9uan7/IMGP3408.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/o6y2opdo3/IMGP3409.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Tomorrow I will post pictures of the result. Today I ran out of washers [:0]
But I got a new tool:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/4p3f8s3vn/IMGP3410.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Maybe my next project will be a tank [:D]
Here you can see my screw locking for the hub bolt:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/rqk0eivtf/IMGP3411.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
-
As promissed the pictures of the mounted oil cooler shroud:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/g1g0qkzpv/IMGP3412.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/5rdlrchk3/IMGP3413.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/4p3f8t6gj/IMGP3414.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/3zkmwgdmr/IMGP3415.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/7vxysg6c3/IMGP3416.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
and from below the car
(https://s19.postimg.cc/6gwe3qcyr/IMGP3417.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
A great day: back on its own feet:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/h3q795stv/IMGP3418.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Two weeks ago I wanted to install the engine but I had to recognize that the clutch had no dowel pins and that the engine mount brackets were nearly broken.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/88pcyoec3/IMGP3445.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I ordered new parts from Summit Racing (http://"http://www.summitracing.com/"). They arrived yesterday. The dowel pins:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/8y85b0zg3/IMGP3441.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
and the new engine mount brackets (with polyurethane) :
(https://s19.postimg.cc/6gwe3rn9f/IMGP3444.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
So the great moment could come:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/5rdlrf25f/IMGP3446.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Two critical situations: will the chinese motor crane work or not
(https://s19.postimg.cc/jz3afheo3/IMGP3447.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/nip85ap3n/IMGP3448.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
It worked:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/plzndjp2r/IMGP3450.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
-
Not so much things have happened. I have a hood now. Since I removed the small rubber spacer I had to try something else:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/lqw9afnr7/IMGP3454.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/b42g50flr/)
and I have mounted the front brakes.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/o880hpfdf/IMGP3455.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/89zarkl5b/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/pai7095wj/IMGP3457.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/vbfvxbsin/)
Now, I am quite sure that I will not manage it to join the AC meeting in September with my cobra :(
-
Back from holidays I installed the mufflers:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/hhrj8b2ib/IMGP3460.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/hhrj8b2i7/)
The pipes direct after the mufflers have a wrong mounting bracket. It was riveted to the glass fire boot although there is a nice metall mounting bracket on the other side:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/r2b5v89ur/IMGP3461.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/su44q4t7j/)
I removed them and I think this is the right place for them:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/6uxq2wwxv/IMGP3470.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/s4lcdrd8f/)
Now, I am waiting for my welder who has promised to come in an hour.
The back of the end pipe should be mounted to the new aluminium boot. This is the place where I would like to mount it:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/8zi33z3pf/IMGP3465.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/5snjkcj9b/)
To be on the right side I will enforce it with this angle profile:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/a1s9mjp3n/IMGP3467.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/nvgmblhov/)
I hope this will work:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/8zi33zbf7/IMGP3469.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/kom2ry2dr/)
The next big project will the the interior. So many (old) carpet (not the red one):
(https://s19.postimg.cc/shcqjxg2r/IMGP3462.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/eawzop57j/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/6uxq2wp83/IMGP3463.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/o880hrkj3/)
Btw.: will I get a free one-year-membership if I pass the 10.000 hit to this subject [:D]
-
Tell me about your engine.
-
quote:
Originally posted by dkp_cobra...Btw.: will I get a free one-year-membership if I pass the 10.000 hit to this subject [:D]
1 vote for yes!
You look close to making the September meeting....You should certainly be rewarded with 'best in show' if you enter any concours events. [8D]
-
quote:
Originally posted by AK1131
Tell me about your engine.
There is nothing special about the engine. The pre-owner installed 2000/2001 a crate engine from Ford Motor Company. It is a
5.8L/351 - 360HP GT-40 Aluminium Head Ford Racing Performance Crate Engine
Number: M-6007-C351
- new Ford Racing high performance hydraulic roller camshaft M-6250-E303 and roller rocker arms
- 351 cu. in.
- 360 HP (Est. with headers, and a 780 cfm Holley carburetor not included) (btw. I have a Edelbrock 750)
- 350 ft./lbs. of torque (Est.)
- 9.0:1 comression ratio
- Ford Racing aluminium GT-40 cylinder heads and GT-40 valve train
- Dual plane intake manifold
-
quote:
Originally posted by nikbj68
quote:
Originally posted by dkp_cobra...Btw.: will I get a free one-year-membership if I pass the 10.000 hit to this subject [:D]
1 vote for yes!
You look close to making the September meeting....You should certainly be rewarded with 'best in show' if you enter any concours events. [8D]
Thank you for the flowers but I will not be finished in two weeks [:(]
-
Once again the mufflers. Please look at this picture:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/kom2s6fb7/IMGP3471.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/n5xtzfz7j/)
The muffler is mounted parallel to the frame but the body has its lower curve pointing upwards. It looks like the muffler points a little bit downwards. I replaced the old mounting bracket (old? well, the one I made last week) with this one:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/mt6ft9983/IMGP3472.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/4qdd21ddb/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/cj40u16hv/IMGP3473.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/mt6ft9wdb/)
After only six hours I got this result:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/dle7cr4sj/IMGP3475.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/40ukpvfgf/)
It looks a little bit better. I don't know whether it was worth it. After that kind of frustrating job I looked for some fast success stories. I pimped the engine bay [:)]
It started with these strange mounting brackets on the valve covers:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/t6viwitjn/IMGP3477.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/iwt3xa3nz/)
I wanted to use them for fixing the ignition cables:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/okzeo72vn/IMGP3478.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/kbuom0zm7/)
Here is the result:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/aejnsyckz/IMGP3480.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/xsrn4vui7/)
Next was the carburator together with a small and discrete air filter:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/tweb8wwo3/IMGP3481.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/f0fs1bl9b/)
I love the look but I cannot close the hood anymore [B)]. We will make a new lower plate for the air filter s.t. the air filter moves 1" back. Then the hood can be closed again. So long the old one will be mounted:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/vbfvxmibn/IMGP3482.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/rrty7tflr/)
Maybe you know the work of changing the differential oil. Since the oil has a quite great viscosity it takes a long time to fill the diffential gear with oil. Yesterday I used "Classic Millers Oil". The plastic bottle has a pull-out pipe which can be put directly into the differential gear from the backside of the boot.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/mt6ftb6o3/IMGP3487.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/ulx3lacn3/)
Squeezing the bootle fills the differential gear in 2 minutes. Great and absolutlety clean.
Once again a look into the boot:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/3o36jjkab/IMGP3486.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/4dlyvwktr/)
Everything is made out of aluminum but there is still the maintenance plate visible. I closed it with a aluminium plate:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/gfhcq2h7n/IMGP3490.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/uyohrhacf/)
Here is look from the backside of this plate. The black pieces are rubber plates for sealing the maintenance holes:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/ik1pr5b4j/IMGP3489.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/enodv5q4v/)
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Only some visits until 10000. Hope all the guys who visited your forum article will be invited for the maiden trip[;)]!
Michael
-
The exhaust system is mounted (finally). Unbelievable how many hours I spent although the were mounted before and I (nearly) didn't change them.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/le4v4s0hv/IMGP3491.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/l1dgyli7z/)
After that some nice work at the engine:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/rf2k1v2jn/IMGP3492.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/iwt3xiw0v/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/vo7a40y37/IMGP3493.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/enodvcl1r/)
I started with the work on the fuel line:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/nvgmc27jn/IMGP3494.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/m3nnh5o6n/)
-
I finished the rear part of the fuel line. I made a new mounting plate:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/ckdyn4fxv/IMGP3495.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/5txhdosrz/)
Now, the first fuel filter and the fuel pump are quite near together:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/pbs4tn55f/IMGP3496.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/jnlu2r0sv/)
What is new is the valve before the fuel filter. If you want to change the fuel filter and your tank is not completely empty you and the half of the garage will be flooded with fuel. Quite hot job if you are a smoker. Now, you can close the valve and the tank don't have to be empty [:)]
(https://s19.postimg.cc/t85gpmif7/IMGP3497.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/4rnav5hof/)
-
Great work. I really look forward to reading your updates and seeing the progress.
Keep up the good work - John.
-
The oil cooler should be controlled by a thermostat. Here are the parts:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/t85gpq5lf/IMGP3498.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/4evwp2mkv/)
Do I have to say that the mounting bracket in front is made of stainless steel [:)]
Here you can see the thermostat at the car ...
(https://s19.postimg.cc/un71efr8z/IMGP3499.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/cx5ctednz/)
... and together with the pipes:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/5txhds0ir/IMGP3500.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/rgchusz33/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/4evwp2ev7/IMGP3501.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/l2nerk9mn/)
-
Absolutely beautiful...will you drive it when it is done?
-
quote:
Originally posted by jbottini
Absolutely beautiful...will you drive it when it is done?
Yes, I will drive it. But I am not sure whether I will park and leave it alone to get an ice cream [:)]
-
it is beautiful...I do not let my laptop near my MKIV...I'm afraid of a revolt if it can access apicture of yours!!!!
-
Today, I started with the work on the carpet. The doors:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/6jg9q5vxf/IMGP3504.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/3pd4cptr3/)
and the boot:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/f1ppuia5v/IMGP3502.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/feh40osfj/)
-
Maybe you remember my filler cap:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/50kvlia0z/IMGP3389.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Yesterday while I installed the boot bonnet I had to notice that the bonnet hit the latch of the filler cap. So I had to turn it a little bit. Sounds easier than it was. It meant that I had to rotate the complete filler cap and drill new holes:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/g3zwd3y4z/IMGP3505.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/z935mvcsv/)
After that I continued with the carpet in the boot. I think this is not standard but the previous owner did the same and I think it is a quite good idea:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/pbs4ttscj/IMGP3507.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/6w7nwfe7z/)
As long as there is nothing in the boot what can fly around during driving its no problem but I saw a MK IV and a MK III without these protection and they had quite ugly dents going from inside to outside.
I made these as a sandwich:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/yjkdaj74j/IMGP3506.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/k0d894dzj/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/txo925yg3/IMGP3508.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/m4xla6sgv/)
This is the result:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/cx5ctht4j/IMGP3511.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/dzfjc1bxr/)
I like this "garden and country"-look of that carpet :)
-
I like the look of your garden, from the reflections! It`s coming on really well( The Cobra, not the garden!)
-
Now you know how the MkIV bolts together, can I book my car in for refurbishment once you have finished yours ?
John.[:)][:)]
-
quote:
Originally posted by cobham cobra
Now you know how the MkIV bolts together, can I book my car in for refurbishment once you have finished yours ?
John.[:)][:)]
Ok, but first I have to work as a summer associate at Steve's garage [:)]
-
Some progress with the carpet:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/akk1a7dxv/IMGP3515.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/etorcdh73/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/ccd053pkz/IMGP3516.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/x9989rnlr/)
You can see the difference between the old black put pile and the new Boucle.
-
Some more progress with the carpet:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/tcvwe07tv/IMGP3527.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/oqzs5nman/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/qisr0kddf/IMGP3526.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/3u3k0zvzj/)
And of course the glove box has the same carpet [:)]
(https://s19.postimg.cc/tpnak6idv/IMGP3525.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/5ynx22i6n/)
-
Before some of you start thinking that I quite: no, I have to work [V]. But I finished my carpet sub-project even in the boot:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/a92kxmcz7/IMGP3529.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/ei7azsg8f/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/z2c4ya3pf/IMGP3533.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/j43f859hb/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/a92kxm59f/IMGP3530.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/u3omjqkgv/)
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Due to https://www.stainlessparts.co.uk/ (https://www.stainlessparts.co.uk/) I was able to mount my wind deflectors and and my sun visors. Also the exterior mirror got its place.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/npzjgipvn/IMGP3536.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/maxyrsosf/)
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Today, I wanted to install the belt harness. I cut two slots into the rear wall behind the seats:
(Backside)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/3vdhueq3n/IMGP2827.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/w88zkvbtr/)
(Frontside)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/yqz9yq277/IMGP2828.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/ifz62eppb/)
The slots are much bigger than I need for the belt but I want to ensure that the belt cannot rub at the aluminium. Thus I made two rubber parts to direct the belt together with two brackets to fix the rubber at the rear side of the backwall.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/49jf76u9v/IMGP2829.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/hdozjvmbj/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/986xlp37n/IMGP2831.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/tfkde00ov/)
Here you can see the result just before the carpet is fixed back by the hook-and-loop tape:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/bpiosyutv/IMGP2832.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/vww4l9sb3/)
And here the final result in the cockpit:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/5btlpqsir/IMGP2833.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/8io59dcyn/)
The belts are mounted at the rear frame of the chassis. That should be strong enough:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/xbxpa08tv/IMGP2834.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/e6ug08u5r/)
Now, you can see why I installed a deviation point in the boot last year. The belt doesn't rub at the tank:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/p6fnbv00j/IMGP2835.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/61ce23lcf/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/4matddzoz/IMGP2836.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/go677j8xb/)
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My mounting bracket for the brake fluid reservoir:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/wmewxrqbn/IMGP3540.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/an8iakowz/IMGP3541.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
... installed in the engine bay (not yet finished):
(https://s19.postimg.cc/3k0muybrn/IMGP3542.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/61ce28b3n/IMGP3543.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Do you remember my idea to displace the brake fluid reservoir?
(https://s19.postimg.cc/64d7yoehv/IMGP2867.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Maybe it was a nice idea but a bad design. For the cone part I had to use two sealing washer but the thread wasn't long enough. So I used no washer but teflon tape. This doesn't work. The connection is not really close and transude brake fluid. That's maybe ok for a gear but not for a brake system.
So, next idea: I cut a MF 18x1,5 thread into the brake master cylinder to use a fitting D04 -> MF 18x1,5 (offered from Thinkauto). Using a sealing washer this should work:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/tfkdec0sj/IMGP3546.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Good time to recondition the brake master cylinder:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/z3qo57xf7/IMGP3545.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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The last weeks I spent a lot of time with small things. Hardly worth to mention like the mandatory pedals with AC logo:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/ifz62sn8z/IMGP3550.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I have mounted a master switch to be save the battery during the long winter months:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/pj71iekyr/IMGP3548.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
And the washer motor has found it's place behind the dashboard and it works fine:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/wz6b47o3n/IMGP3551.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
In the meantime I have three (3 !!!) different rotary switches from lucas for the windscreen wiper. All of them have a push mechanism to switch on the washer motor. Testing these switches together with the wiper motor often results into short-curcuits and sometimes into fume. Thus I decided to simulate these on computer. If anybody of you have a Verilog simulator he my be interested in modelling the motor:
module wiper(inout i1,i2,input i3,inout i4,input i5);
integer i = 0;
tranif1 t1(i1,i2,i == 0 || i == 1);
tranif1 t2(i4,i2,i != 0 && i != 1);
always #100//@(i or i3 or i5 or i1 or i2 or i3)
begin
case ({i1,i5,i3})
3'b000: $display("break");
3'b00Z: $display("break");
3'b0ZZ: $display("no operation");
3'b01Z:
begin
$display("speed 1");
i = (i+1) % 10;
end
3'b0Z1:
begin
$display("speed 2");
i = (i+2) % 10;
end
default: $display("error 1=%d 3=%d 5=%d",i1,i3,i5);
endcase
end
endmodule // wiper
and the switch:
module switch39125(input [1:0] pos,inout i1,i2,i3,i4);
tranif1 t1(i2,i3,pos == 0);
tranif1 t2(i2,i4,pos == 1);
tranif1 t3(i1,i4,pos == 2);
endmodule // switch
A typical simulation cycle shows no problems with a correct wiring:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/rnrejhevn/wave.gif) (https://postimages.org/)
/top/i models the switch position: 0 is the parking position, 1 is low-speed and 2 is high-speed. /top/w/i is the internal state of the motor. When it is running it counts up to 9 and starts again at 0. You can see that the internal state is increased by 2 during high-speed (/top/i == 2). When the wiper switch is turned back to parking position (/top/i == 0) the increase of the internal status of the wiper motor is 1 in each step which means low-speed but the motor is still running. Reaching the internal state 0 the motor has reached the parking position and the motor stops. During this simulation cycle no signals were red indicating a short-curcuit. That's fine and I can test this wiring in the "real world".
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Here you can see the original water pipe (left) and the new on the right side.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/ifz62wi4z/IMGP3552.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
The new pipe has no filler neck since I would like to use a Harrison expansion tank from a C2 Corvette.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/qy8m78wdf/IMGP3553.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Once again I tried to bleed my brake system. With the new fittings it should be leak-free:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/sq1l25ng3/IMGP3555.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Normaly I use a one-hand bleeding bottle to bleed the brake lines. But due to the construction of the master-brake cylinder it is not possible to bleed it completely with this bottle. Well, at least I wasn't able to do that. A professional bleeding system presses the brake fluid into the reservoir. Than you have to open the bleeding valve at the caliper and all you have to do is to wait until no air is coming out of the caliper. If you don't want to spend some hundred euros for such a system since you use it only every second year you can construct something similar. I mounted a valve from a bicycle tube into an old brake fluid reservoir cap:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/3ws11ic5f/IMGP3558.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Now, I can press air into the reservoir and let the air out of the system by opening the valves at the calipers.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/wmewy5nv7/IMGP3557.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
You shouldn't use a higher pressure then 1.5 bar. Otherwise the cap get blasted from the reservoir and you have to clean your engine bay. Don't ask how I know [xx(]
-
Hahahaha... I made a similar tool once, but I actually used the bike tube instead of compressed air! I didn`t find out how much pressure is too much!
We also used it for refilling a friend`s gearbox with oil, it was leaking a pint each week! I hope no bikers followed hin to work...
-
quote:
Originally posted by nikbj68
Hahahaha... I made a similar tool once, but I actually used the bike tube instead of compressed air! I didn`t find out how much pressure is too much!
We also used it for refilling a friend`s gearbox with oil, it was leaking a pint each week! I hope no bikers followed hin to work...
My first attempt was also with the bike tube but with a quite good bike tube. Definitely too much pressure [:(!]
-
I start working on the wiring loom. First the front part. Measuring at the car:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/u6d3jviir/IMGP3060.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/aoig3wqpv/IMGP3059.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/t42x1brzn/IMGP3061-1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
removing it from the car:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/v8na2ee6r/IMGP3062-1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
covered with heat shrink tube:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/mqdty2fdv/IMGP3063.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Same procedure for the back wiring loom. Boring ...
(https://s19.postimg.cc/62mbvmps3/IMGP3064.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/vleo8n9bz/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/oi6st1bmb/IMGP3065.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/8wph92znz/)
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The mounting plate for the fuse box:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/876owqek3/IMGP3067.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
... and with the fuse box, relay bracket, generator regulator and ignition box.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/rp1ccoqxf/IMGP3068.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/xpz19r5tv/IMGP3069.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/62mbvo02r/IMGP3070-1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Peter,
Can you provide the part numbers for the Heim/Rose joints and their covers for the front suspension. The thread suggests the joints are Jaguar and the covers come from a race shop. Any additional info would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Art
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quote:
Originally posted by ANF289
Peter,
Can you provide the part numbers for the Heim/Rose joints and their covers for the front suspension. The thread suggests the joints are Jaguar and the covers come from a race shop. Any additional info would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Art
Art,
I am sorry I do not have the original Jaguar part number but maybe this can helps here:
Limora.com (http://"http://www.limora.com/index/lang-2/lkz-195/markenid-2/katnr-29/kat_sprache-2/hrubnr-1133/rubrik-2901/tpl-clickable_vertikal.tpl,x-a.htm")
It part number 3.
The sealing boots for the rose joints can be ordered at any race shop or here at ebay:
Mc Gill Motorsports (http://"http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Sealing-Boots-for-5-8-UNF-Male-and-Female-Rose-Joints_W0QQitemZ190180662875QQihZ009QQcategoryZ43120QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem")
Hope this helps a little bit.
Peter
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Now, the fuse box with some cables:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/gcoquzi9f/IMGP3090.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/tgub7n00j/IMGP3089-1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
That was a quite time intensive work.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/uvvvwdgj7/IMGP3091-1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I hope I looks more tidy up then before:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/7hnwkhoc3/IMGP3092-1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/o5femygir/IMGP3093-1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Look at these quite nice control lamps:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/tgub7nn5v/IMGP3088-1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
The problem with these lamps is that the body is connected to ground. Well, in general this is not bad but two of these lamps (generator test and indicator light) are connected permanently to plus and have a switched ground connection. Thus I had to isolated the body from tha dashboard. Of course with real leather [:)]
(https://s19.postimg.cc/v8na2jbnn/IMGP3087-1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
-
Due to some problems with my ignition module I got the original manual from the previous owner. Thank you for that.
The good news is that it works now. The bad news was that the manual claimed that the module should be placed away from the engine heat (ok in my case) with fresh air floating around. That what definitely not the case in my application.
I decided to make a new mounting plate for the fuses and relays without the ignition module and the generator regulator:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/rp1ccu3tv/IMGP3102.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/cgbez2xar/IMGP3103-1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
The ignition module and the generator regulator has now its place below the battery. They are protected against the heat due to the heat protection shield. And enough fresh air comes from below and is dragged through the right louvre.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/jwaokv5kj/IMGP3104.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Now, the dashboard is nearly finished:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/ih93w5zcj/IMGP3106.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/dvcznt63n/IMGP3107.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
and a look behind:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/ih93w5c77/IMGP3105.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/62mbvtkov/)
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The last missing part: a mounting bracket for the expansion tank.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/nfwmapav7/IMGP3109.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
The expansion tank is a Harrison repro. from a C2 Corvette. The cable strap will be replaced by a clamp:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/c3k0sx9w3/IMGP3110.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Now, it is time to put water on it ...
-
Give me fuel ...
(http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r138/dkp_cobra/Cobra/th_IMGP3111.jpg) (http://"http://s143.photobucket.com/albums/r138/dkp_cobra/Cobra/?action=view¤t=IMGP3111.flv")
Look Igor, IT LIVES !!!
(http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r138/dkp_cobra/Cobra/th_IMGP3112.jpg) (http://"http://s143.photobucket.com/albums/r138/dkp_cobra/Cobra/?action=view¤t=IMGP3112.flv")
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Not only Peters car came to life. There is a small barn in the northern part of germany; every evening you can watch two maniacs disappear in the barn (one day two other maniacs called Horst and Michael appeared as well in the barn). When the massage came up from Peter, that he had fired up his car, there was a reply from a certain Heinz (not the Ketschup Heinz, but the AK 1005 Heinz), that the mufflers of his car were not manufactured but he had fired up his engine as well. Now the restoration of AK 1005 is under delay because the barn has to be restored ...[;)][:)][:D]
Interesting car, by the way. Mk III suspension, T 10 gearbox, Girling brakes, Cleveland engine. Probably the oldest Mk IV in Europe (to whom it may concern: The UK is part of Europe[:)]).
Michael
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The dashboard is finished:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/c3k0sx9w3/IMGP3110.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
The extension tank is fixed now:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/9m89lokur/IMGP3255.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I think the black rubber lines look better at that place than the stainless steel lines.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/p7pl5n4ir/IMGP3256.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Ready for the first ride:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/8jy337777/IMGP3262-1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/o5fen5ykz/IMGP3264-1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/rp1ccytkz/IMGP3271.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/d5u7bkfvn/IMGP3272.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/62mbvx7v7/IMGP3285-1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/nso0gyt5v/IMGP3286.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Result:
drives really nice but the speedometer doesn't work and the brakes are quite hard to push. Maybe the brake booster isn't really ok.
-
Peter, your car looks absolutely stunning, you must be very proud, it is a credit to your hard work and effort. Thanks for creating a fantastic build/restoration thread, I'm sure the areas you have covered in the restoration will be of great use to Mark 4/Superblower owners.
Regards
Gary
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Peter,
I have to say I'm incredibly impressed to. We both have very similar cars, mine is AK1023 and looked virtually identical to the picture of yours before you started the renovation. I've been doing some mods to mine recently and they now differ in several small respects, mainly roll bar, exhaust, engine, doors & stripes.
The one bit I'm really very jealous of is getting rid of that horrid padding around the edge of the cabin. I so want to do that. I don't suppose you have a picture of what was under the padding do you? If I were to go any further with the car that would be the next thing on the list. I've just no idea whats under there.
Are you coming over in the summer to the ACOC International? I think your car would draw a crowd if you do! So many people have been reading this with interest over the last year or so.
Once again well done & congratulations on completing a huge job so very well.
Nick
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Gary, Nick,
thank you for the kind words. The next ACOC meeting is in Brocklands from 10-12 July, right? I am on holiday that time [:(]
Nick, I am sorry I have no pictures of the body which show what is below the leather padding around the cockpit. The previous owner removed it already. As far as I know the padding is applied to aluminium channel which is riveted to the body. It is not a big problem to remove it but you have the rivet holes in you body after that. If you close them with primer before painting the primer will shrink over the years and you can see were the holes were. Since I got a complete new paint job from the bottom my welder closed the holes before the painter primed the complete body. I think this is the only way to be sure that the holes will never come through the paint.
I hope this information helps a little bit.
Regards,
Peter
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Hi Peter,
Very disappointed to hear you will not be coming over to Brooklands for the ACOC International[:(]. You have done a fantastic job in restoring your car and I greatly appreciate you taking the time to photograph and record your progress. I'm sure I'm not the only one that was looking forward to meeting you and having a good look at your car.
Cheers - John.
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Short update: the speedometer works now. The problem was that my VDO Siemens hall sensor has an open collector output signal. If you connect this to the hall signal input of the Smith (CAI) stepper speedometer you have to use pin 3 (red) to pull up the signal, i.e. I had to connect the battery to pin 3. Now it works (testing this I could see that my cordless screwdriver makes 130km/h [:)])
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Now, with the "correct" air filter [:)]
(https://s19.postimg.cc/u6d3kc0nn/IMGP3289-1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/pkgzbzmub/IMGP3290-1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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The car was again at the paint shop for the final polishing. I think a quite nice result:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/4nkr7bwj7/IMGP3305.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/4atd15e9b/)
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Absolutely beautiful...will you drive it when it is done?
Now, I can give you the answer: YES. This weekend we had a constancy race in our town. We had the start number 127 (there were 130 in total).
(https://s19.postimg.cc/8p1ucs6rn/IMGP0362.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/67q35imv3/)
The race was in the evening and in the night. At the end we had the second place in our group (1980 - 1984). Quite exciting if you do it for the first time.
Here you can see the course: https://youtu.be/MUb9EGaqK8c (https://youtu.be/MUb9EGaqK8c)
-
Here a film of another race[:D]!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PFIfHI6OUPw
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FANTASTIC!!!!!
What a joy, to have watched all your efforts, and finally see you enjoying your Cobra.
Thank you for making us part of it!!!!
Nik.
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Never ending story: "MK IV strikes back" (now, without lower wishbones).
(https://s19.postimg.cc/4dd8njf7n/IMGP3417-1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I had a quite big bearing play in the rear wheels (no, my work on the hubs was ok). The reason is that the lower wishbone has two bushes for the arm shaft:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/7k7s76f37/IMGP3418-1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
These bushes are powder coated inside. So it is not a real good idea to put the wishbones into a oven for 24 hours in order to remove the old powder coat just to make them new because the bushes are damaged after that. Here you can see inside the rest of the old powder coat:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/retttamkz/IMGP3419-1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
We made new brass bushes:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/u8wz6r46r/IMGP3421.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
The problem is that they were made with a quite high precision but the original bushes didn't align. Now, the arm shaft doesn't pass both bushes:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/enfnmszyb/IMGP3423.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I have to extend them a little bit by hand with a reamer.
-
Surprised you didn`t use Phosphor Bronze rather than brass, but those original bushes are horrible! Is it possible there is some damage/distortion to the wishbone, or do you think that the holes were misaligned from manufacture?
I hope you don`t have to do too much reaming to get the pin through!
-
It might be best to have undersize bushes & get them line bored to size as reaming to fit will not give full bearing surface so will wear quite quickly, i realise it will cost but the car is worth it.
Robin
-
quote:
Originally posted by nikbj68
... Is it possible there is some damage/distortion to the wishbone, or do you think that the holes were misaligned from manufacture?
Thank you for that thought. That's what I need to wake up screaming [:)]
I think the misalignment is "natural". We are talking about less then 0,1°. The original bushes with the powder coat inside have a difference of the id. with and without the powder coat of 0.5 mm. That's quite a lot and I think enough to push the arm shaft with some strokes through. Now with the brass it is not possible (well, it is possible but then the arm shaft cannot rotate anymore).
The reason why I didn't take something better then brass is that my turner had brass at home and said to me that this is not the best but a lot better then I had before. So we will try it.
The angle the arm shaft must rotate is not very big. It is nearly 18° if the wheel springs 10 cm.
-
quote:
Originally posted by Robin A Woolmer
It might be best to have undersize bushes & get them line bored to size as reaming to fit will not give full bearing surface so will wear quite quickly, i realise it will cost but the car is worth it.
Robin
Robin,
I agree that boring will be the best result but I think this is quite difficult maybe impossible. You need a laser directed drilling machine in order to target the second hole. And I don't think that one can drill with such a high precision we need for the hole.
You are right reaming is not the best solution but I don't want to increase the diameter of the bush but adapt the alignment. That will increase the hole on one side but we are talking about 0,03mm. I think I only have to show the reamer to the bush and the arm shaft will fit.
Let's see tomorrow then I get the reamer.
-
quote:
Originally posted by dkp_cobra
quote:
Originally posted by nikbj68
... Is it possible there is some damage/distortion to the wishbone, or do you think that the holes were misaligned from manufacture?
Thank you for that thought. That's what I need to wake up screaming [:)]
I think the misalignment is "natural". We are talking about less then 0,1°.
Sorry, certainly didn`t mean to cause sleepless nights! I think you are probably right about the 'natural' variation, 0.1° is a pretty fine tolerance to work to, and even jigged at 0.0°, the finished part could settle to more than that! Lineboring needn`t be laser guided, over the distance we are talking about here, but if you are hand reaming, maybe try to take half from both rather than all from one hole, to reduce the amount of metal removed to the minimum. [:D]
-
It worked. As I assumed I had to show the reamer to the bushes (both, not one side) and the arm shaft passes both bushes with some gentle strokes. Look here:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/jalponnc3/IMGP3424.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
You can see the different shine. That's what I reamed away. We are talking about something about 0.01 mm. The arm shaft cannot be pushed through both bushes by hand (well, at least not by my hands) but with some gentle strokes. I cannot rotate the arm shaft by hand but using the ratchet on the grease nipple rotates the arm shaft smoothly. Now, the wheels have no clearance except the left side.
On the left side also the rose joints with the right thread is damaged. I thought "well lets buy 4 new rose joints: 2 left threaded and 2 right threaded". Today 3 left threaded arrived [B)]
-
Were the bushes a tight fit into the arms? it`s quite possible that such a small amount to remove was actually taking out 'compression'. You might find it neccesary to reduce your lubrication intervals as well, or maybe consider fitting 'Greasomatics' during bed-in?
(http://www.allube.co.uk/images/wymarkgreasomatic.jpg)
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Impressions of a small german MK IV meeting:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/cwwmlqatv/IMGP3597.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/5tor6509f/IMGP3598.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/rg3rn5r43/IMGP3601.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/4reknl20j/IMGP3602.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Maybe, some of you think that I am quite happy because the car is finished and I have nothing to do. That's not the case. There is still one problem. In low speed (up to 60 km/h) during change of load I have a beat in the car. I guess it come from the rear axle. I changed all universal joints from the half-shafts. No improvement. I changed two of the rose-joints. No improvement. Now, I change the complete half-shafts:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/alykh57nn/IMGP3758.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(above the new one, below the old original one).
What should I say: no improvement :( Now, I have nearly no idea what it can be. I start thinking about a new hobby, maybe collecting stamps ...
-
Just a thought, should the joints be at 90 degrees to each other?
-
quote:
Originally posted by Robin A Woolmer
Just a thought, should the joints be at 90 degrees to each other?
The joints must be in one line. The new one is correct but the old haft-shaft wasn't. But there is no way to bring it in one line.
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I had a short trip with my father-in-law. His spontaneous answer was that the gear slams to the frame. What should I say? I think he is right:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/5nb22mbkj/IMGP3761.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/o2vj00xer/IMGP3765.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Today I removed the mounting bracket of the transmission. That doesn't look ok:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/dg1pulwz7/IMGP3766.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
You can see where the bolt of the gear hit the bracket every time when the gear flipped back during change of load.
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If you ask me why I spend to much time (and money) for the restauration of an old car the answer is quite simple: it gives me a good reason to buy new tools [:)]
For example this digital protactor:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/fxdh1vwb7/IMGP3769.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I used it to measure the old angle of the motor/gear. After removing the old gear mount and fitting the new one I used the digital protactor to find the right angle:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/kj9la8x9v/IMGP3770.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
You can see I have to lower it 1.1°.
The other new tool is a wig/mma welder. Here you can see the new gear mounting bracket:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/72cmrdf8j/IMGP3771.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I know the weldseams are terrible but it is my first work and I am quite pride on it. It is really exciting to lie under the car with a welder in the hand and to know that the fuel line is quite near [B)]
-
Thank you for the updates, I always look forward to your posts.
When you have finally finished your car will you be taking bookings from other MkIV owners ?[;)][;)]
Have a good weekend - John.
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Hi John,
yes, I had a nice weekend, thank you. I started to look for a friend for my snake. I think a cat would be nice but I don't know whether it should be an english cat:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/s0ne30wpf/IMGP3773.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
or an italian cat:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/9xubbst4z/IMGP3772.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Please, can anybody help [:)]
-
quote:
Originally posted by dkp_cobra
...I had a nice weekend, thank you. I started to look for a friend for my snake. I think a cat would be nice...
Please, can anybody help [:)]
Oh no, you are beyond help! [8D]
Never mind a friend, it looks like a great-grandparent is waiting there, behind the english cat!!!
-
Hi Peter
Stop ... ... Pusssseee Footing Around, Keep with AC's buy a Ace Bristol.
And Enjoy ! OK not as fast as your COBLER oooopps Sorry COBRA, but a true companion in the garage... Both Black.
Both to your high standard WOTAPAIR.
(No, No! No need to get smutty.)
Mind you a Wee Black Ferrari 275 or 250SWB would really set the cat amongst the pigeons. Yep! We have a decision the
250SWB [8D] any colour as long as you are paying [;)]
Keith [:)]
-
quote:
Originally posted by nikbj68
quote:
Originally posted by dkp_cobra
...I had a nice weekend, thank you. I started to look for a friend for my snake. I think a cat would be nice...
Please, can anybody help [:)]
Oh no, you are beyond help! [8D]
Never mind a friend, it looks like a great-grandparent is waiting there, behind the english cat!!!
Yes, but the grandparent is open and I am looking for a coupe.
-
quote:
Originally posted by AC Ace Bristol
Hi Peter
Stop ... ... Pusssseee Footing Around, Keep with AC's buy a Ace Bristol.
And Enjoy ! OK not as fast as your COBLER oooopps Sorry COBRA, but a true companion in the garage... Both Black.
Both to your high standard WOTAPAIR.
(No, No! No need to get smutty.)
Mind you a Wee Black Ferrari 275 or 250SWB would really set the cat amongst the pigeons. Yep! We have a decision the
250SWB [8D] any colour as long as you are paying [;)]
Keith [:)]
Mmh, 275 or 250 SWB? Quite nice, but unfortunately not my league. But if you want to support me ... [8D]
Maybe some of you has an Aceca in it's garage and think "well, I don't really need this car. If I only know of a person how would enjoy it ..." Here I am [;)]
-
Did you get this one?
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?type=2&campid=5336506384&toolid=10001&customid=&ext=280447960583&item=280447960583
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quote:
Originally posted by Gus Meyjes
Did you get this one?
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?type=2&campid=5336506384&toolid=10001&customid=&ext=280447960583&item=280447960583
Yes, but the car is finished. Nothing to do for me [:)]
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Maybe this winter will end some day. Then I would like to start the new saison with nice wheels. So I depainted the wheels:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/b04hueh43/IMGP3891.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Next steps will be painting and polishing.
-
They look like like old magnesium wheels now, Cool! I guess the Mercedes rim isn`t your spare?!
-
My wheels are back. Here you can see the difference:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/7gik4mooz/IMGP4190.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/mch3c8fj7/IMGP4189.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
and from behind:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/xotou012r/IMGP4188.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Since I have removed the transmission tunnel I build something for the security but I hope I will never use it:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/p6k8po9zn/IMGP4194.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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After powder coating the parts look better:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/lmyazymqb/IMGP4196.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/4mferb4k3/IMGP4197.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Now, if you think I have nothing to do since the car is finished that's not quite right. I still have the problem that I get a hard beat during change of load. That was the reason for the new transmission mounting bracket. But the problem is still not fixed.
In the meantime I found three places where the exhaust could hit the frame. Now, I had a closer look to my new engine mounts. On the right side there is only 1 mm space between the frame and the engine mount. I guess that's a problem.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/kko4hfbmr/IMGP4218.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/nrio11w2n/)
And the next problem is that the ignition system is dead. There is no ignition spark at all. And this error happens when we started for a vintage rallye right on the start ramp [B)]
So I think I have to replace this part:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/y1l30ato3/IMGP4223.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I ordered a new MSD AL6 box with new coil and a new distributor cap hoping that the problem will be solved with the new parts.
At the end a look at a rear up MK IV:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/mp8hiisoz/IMGP4222.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Last time you could see how close the PU mounting brackets were placed at the frame. Here you can see these brackets beside the standard ones:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/qlltepvqr/IMGP4232.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/vk9bt979f/IMGP4233.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Now, with the standard brackets I have much more space to the frame:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/pw312dicj/IMGP4234.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Unfortunately, this doesn't solve the beat during change of load :(
But I have a new ignition system from MSD: a 6AL box. This is much bigger than the old Ford Duraspark box so I needed a new mounting plate:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/pjbmw7fib/IMGP4235.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
with a new place for the generator regulator:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/e6z1eejo3/IMGP4236.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
At the end everything had space at the same place (here, before routing the cables):
(https://s19.postimg.cc/3wwmf6983/IMGP4237.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
With the new MSD box the engine starts fine, the tachometer works but the fuel switch-off relais which gets its trigger signal from coil(-) doesn't work. So I measured the signals from the tacho-output and from the magnetic trigger. Maybe one of them can be used.
The tacho-output is a defined 12V square signal but the squares are 12V + and the trigger signal needs 12V -. The signal of the magnetic trigger are negativ but totally useless for the switch-off relais. The solution should be the tacho-adapter MSD-8920. I will check this in winter ...
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I got the MSD Tach-Adapter 8920 and it works fine. But the first rides show that the speedometer doesn't work correct anymore. The reason is that this MSD box produces quite strong magnetic fields which disturb the hall sensor at the gear box.
The solutions seems to be the separation of the ignition from the rest of the electric. This means that I have to modify again the cable harness.
Now, below the battery only the ignition modules are placed:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/fnajwcjyb/IMGP4332.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
The external voltage regulator must be placed anywhere else. Since I expect that this will be the next component to fail I looked for a place where I can replace it easily whithout demount half of the harness:
(https://s19.postimg.cc/e88z7mqkz/IMGP4335.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
What is missing is the special cable plug:
(http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/pco-5436pt_w.jpg)
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Voltage Rgulator plugs are "dime a dozen" here. Two dollars or so.....I will send you one if you need it.
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quote:
Originally posted by Mark IV
Voltage Rgulator plugs are "dime a dozen" here. Two dollars or so.....I will send you one if you need it.
That's very kind but I ordered it already.
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I have a question: what do you think is a realistic price I could reach if I sell my MK IV? No, no it is not for sale but I would like to know your estimations.
Cheers, Peter
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Do you really want the answers in open-forum? LOL
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quote:
Originally posted by nikbj68
Do you really want the answers in open-forum? LOL
There is an e-mail button [:I]
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quote:
Originally posted by nikbj68
Do you really want the answers in open-forum? LOL
Why not... the more we know, both buyers and sellers, the better off we all are!
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I would also like to know what a realistic price may be because I will have one for sale soon.
Thanks,
Brian
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quote:
Originally posted by Brian
I would also like to know what a realistic price may be because I will have one for sale soon.
Thanks,
Brian
AKL1397?
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yes. Trying to gather information.
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Wintertime is time for some handicraft work. Starting from useless but nice to have things like a plate for a rallye plate
(https://s19.postimg.cc/6fibfsacz/IMGP4728.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
going via some real improvements like a guide for the quite long steering column. Together with a new u-joint the steering is much more precise.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/ov2sd73wz/IMGP4731.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/faj5qb6v7/IMGP4735.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Finally, there is real necessary work. Maybe, you remember my problem with a hard loud beat during chance of load. The reason was that all four bolts of the lower mounting brace of the differential case were loose. I think the problem were too light washers. Now, I have some real big washers with new bolts an a new wire lock.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/9mcuzen37/IMGP4730.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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What's new? I am currently working on a replacement of the bowden cable for the carburator. I would like to use some kind of rod linkage.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/uj934735f/IMGP4833.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/aon1i2vnn/IMGP4835.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I think this will be the last work on that car. After that a new project will start because, finally, grandpa has come home [:)]
(https://s19.postimg.cc/mqifcahrn/IMGP4840.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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What a great ending to a very long story ...and a great beginning for a new one! Congrats!
Art
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The season starts and the linkage is finished.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/3zgi1lzwj/IMGP5000.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/g1bvvr1f7/IMGP5001.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/i5w8wtvc3/IMGP4961.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
The work on the steering rack was successful. It's much more precise. Now, the new project can start.
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Can anyone use these side lamps? If not I'll cast them away. They are not nice and the glasses of the red one are dull but maybe some parts can be used. I don't want money for them but I think it's better to ask before dumping them.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/u7rmr19qb/IMGP5171.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/y44yn12fn/IMGP5172.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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I would like them please as the condition of the ones on a car i am importing is not great and they could be very useful.
Thanks, Luke
luke@stonesetltd.com
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On my MK IV I have three Trico wiper arms all adjustable in the length. Does anybody know which arms these are and where I can buy it?
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Peter
I've just replaced all of mine with a stainless steel set purchased from Holden, but there are numerous other suppliers - just do a google search. Most will post to Europe.
http://www.holden.co.uk/displayAgroups.asp?sg=2&pgCode=040&sgName=Hardware&pgName=Washers+%26+Wipers
Another supplier:
http://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/en/list+windscreen+and+wipers~wiper+arm/
Note that my originals were black but I was happy to change mine to stainless steel. I'm not sure where to get black ones.
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quote:
Originally posted by C9OBY
Peter
I've just replaced all of mine with a stainless steel set purchased from Holden, but there are numerous other suppliers - just do a google search. Most will post to Europe.
http://www.holden.co.uk/displayAgroups.asp?sg=2&pgCode=040&sgName=Hardware&pgName=Washers+%26+Wipers
Another supplier:
http://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/en/list+windscreen+and+wipers~wiper+arm/
Note that my originals were black but I was happy to change mine to stainless steel. I'm not sure where to get black ones.
Thank you. I found another page where you can build the wiper arm you would like. Really nice: TEX Automotive (http://"http://www.texautomotive.com/CodeGenerators/WiperArmIdentifier/main.htm")
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Bye, bye, photobucket. I migrated to "Postimage.org". Most of the pictures should be visible again.
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Well done DKP for taking the trouble to post the images again. Good info for the few members (like us) who are not frightened to improve our Mk IVs.