AC Owners Club Forum

AC Owners Club Forum => Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum => Topic started by: dkp_cobra on March 21, 2011, 16:17:16

Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on March 21, 2011, 16:17:16
This thread describes my attempt to restore my AC Aceca BE 646. The journey started on 2011/03 and after nine years it's still not finished but I'll try to keep on doing it.
In the meantime the new AC Aceca owner David (https://www.acownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=28224 (https://www.acownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=28224)) started to make an index and a table of content for my thread. This is a great (and painful) job and he allowed me to use his work to publish it here. This is a very helpful document and I would like to thank him very much. Thank you, David.


RESTORATION OF BE646 2011 - TO DATE (5 FEB 2021/MSG 359)
TABLE OF CONTENTS
The pages are hyperlinks. Click them you will like it ...
# = message number   (p. x-y) = number of photo in separate document https://c.1und1.de/362516207/Qk7IjtyMTCmCqPrexFGo5A (https://c.1und1.de/362516207/Qk7IjtyMTCmCqPrexFGo5A)
  Page 1 (https://www.acownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=1515.0):
            #2 (p. 1): left side in fwd cabin
            #3 p. (3-4): inside right hand door
            #4-6: wood repairs
            #7-11 (p. 14/455): speedometer drive, parking brake handle
            #12 (p. 13/455): Ford 289+toploader
Page 2 (https://www.acownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=1515.15):
            #20: Aceca as bought
            #25 (p. 19/455): cabin overhead light, panels behind seat, rear frame
            #28 (p. 20-21): rear frame
            #28 (p. 22): fuel tank mounting and rear frame
            #28 (p. 27-28): engine compartment looking fwd and backwards
            #28 (p. 29): front disk and caliper
            #29: motor weights
Page 3 (https://www.acownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=1515.30):
            #30-31: motor weights
            #33-36: (p. 32-35): seats
            #36 (p. 36): fuel tank
            #37: tail lights and body
            #40 (p. 43): right B pillar
Page 4 (https://www.acownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=1515.45):
            #46 (p. 47-48): left B pillar, rear framing
            #52 (p. 50-52): frame and rockers
            #54: hand brake
            #55 (p. 53-58): rear framing
            #57 (p. 59): front framing
            #58: A pillar
            #59 (p. 63): footboxes, dash etc (RH drive), rear frame
Page 5 (https://www.acownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=1515.60):
            #60-61: tachometer drive
            #62 (p. 63-66): rear frame and differential etc
            #65 (p. 68-69):  rear body, B pillars
            #68: differential
            #69 (p. 70-71): MGA heater
            #70 (p. 72-73): wiper wiring
            #71 (p. 73): seats
            #73: differential brackets
            #74, 77 (p. 76-81): windshield wiper motor and mechanism
Page 6 (https://www.acownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=1515.75):
            #77: wiper R and R
            #78 (p. 83): driveshafts (MkIV, new Aceca, original Aceca)
            #82 (p. 88-96): Jag differential mounting etc
            #85-87: stub axles
            #89 (p. 97): horns
Page 7 (https://www.acownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=1515.90):
            #90: horns
            #91-93 (p. 99-105): Jag differential mounting
            #93: differential mounting
            #94 (p. 105-110): mounting 289 and toploader
            #96 (p. 112-113): pedal box, washer wheels
            #97 (p. 113-119): engine mounts
            #97-104 (p. 119-123): steering gear
Page 8 (https://www.acownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=1515.105):
            #105-107: steering conversion discussion
            #108 (p. 124): seat redo
            #109 (p. 125): rack and pinion mountings
            #112-113: frame strength measurement/analysis
            #114-119: (p. 130-140): steering discussion and X-ray
            #114-119: rack-and-pinion mount
            #119: rack and pinion conversion
Page 9 (https://www.acownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=1515.120):
            #120 (p. 140-151): steering column bracket, differential, half shaft, transmission-mounts
            #122: gearbox bracket
            #123: ACOC badge R&R
            #124: converting Holley carburetor to manual choke
            #125-126: speedometer drive
            #127 (p. 157-158): headers, door fix, hatch
            #128 (p. 158): hatch
            #129 (p. 164): heater vents
            #132 (p. 167): clutch and brake fluid reservoirs
            #133 (p. 169-170): frame modifications to fit motor and gearbox
            #134 (p. 170-171): bumpers
            #134 (p. 172-173): motor mounts
Page 10 (https://www.acownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=1515.135):
            #135 (p. 176-177): steering shaft
            #136-138 (p. 177-186): LH drive dashboard
            #138-141 (p. 187-190): differential bracket
            #141 (p.191-194): dash binnacle
            #146 (p. 195): parking brake handle
Page 11 (https://www.acownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=1515.150):
            #151-152: re-chroming
            #152 (p. 199-200): cabin light
            #153-156 (p. 201-213): dash and footbox modifications for 289
            #157 (p. 216-220): headers
            #158-159: dash, glove box
Page 12 (https://www.acownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=1515.165):
            #165-166 (p. 221-238): dash and footbox modifications
            #168 (p. 239-240): differential rebuild
            #169 (p. 240-243): rear view mirror
            #171 (p. 243-245): differential rebuild
            #171-172 (p. 246-252): footboxes and pedal box
            #172 (p. 252-253): foot box air vents
            #178 (p. 254-255): transverse brace for preventing engine mount rotation (note that mounts are clamped, not welded to the frame to be able to change motors)
Page 13 (https://www.acownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=1515.180):
            #181 (p. 255-261): footbox modifications
            #181 (p. 261-267): borescope examination of inside frame tubes and discussion of strengthening needs
            #187 (p. 271-273): removing running gear/A arms/suspension
            #189 (p. 276): stripped body
            #190 (p. 277): differential gears
            #192 (p. 278-280): stripped body including inside roof above doors
            #194 (p. 281-286): improved engine mounts
Page 14 (https://www.acownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=1515.195):
            #196 (p. 287): reproduction VIN plate
            #197 (p. 288): footboxes
            #197-202 (p. 288-309): frame strength analysis and reinforcing tube insertion
            #202-204 (p. 312-317): another improved engine-mount to brace frame alignment
            #205 (p. 318-321): closing frame holes
            #206-207 (p. 322-325): rocker repairs
            #208 (p. 326-331): rear frame (behind seats) repairs
Page 15 (https://www.acownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=1515.210):
            #210 (p. 332-333): discussion about removing rear of body
            #211-213 (p. 334-338): rear frame repairs and how to do them
            #216 (p. 342-345): shock absorber brackets & others
            #217 (p. 347-348): bracket for spare wheel fixing rod
            #218 (p. 349): rear subframe complete
            #219-221 (p. 350): fitting fuel tank, repairing frame to suit. Discussion of A-arm bracket alignment misalignment etc
            #222-224 (p. 356-366): right and left rocker repairs
Page 16 (https://www.acownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=1515.225):
            #225 (p.366-369): frame repairs behind seats, fitting fiberglass panel
            #226 (p. 370): seat runner supports
            #226 (p. 370-372): B-column brace
            #227 (p. 372-374): rear subframe installation
            #228-229 (p. 375-380): improved engine mounts, drive shaft protection loop
            #231 (p. 380-385): rocker panel repair and replacement
            #232-233 (p. 385-393): door fitting, hinges, and B pillar repair
            #234-238 (p. 394-400): B-pillar bracing panels
Page 17 (https://www.acownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=1515.240):
            #239-244 B pillar bracing panels
            #245 (p. 400-403): rocker covers
            #246 (p. 404-405): fuel tank straps
            #247 (p. 406-410): better B pillar covers
            #248-249 (p. 410-414): hatch window
            #250 (p. 415-419): front lower wishbone R&R
            #251 (p. 420-422): fiberglass panel behind seats
            #252-253 (p. 423-429):  hatch R&R
            #254 (p. 429-455) door rebuilding, fitting, finding car VIN stamped in door
Page 18 (https://www.acownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=1515.255):
            #256-267 door rebuilding and fitting, window frames       
Page 19 (https://www.acownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=1515.270):
            #271: front quarter window latches
            #273: door fitting
            #279: grease gun R&R
            #280: door frames and inside panels
            #281: seat belt anchor brackets
            #282: transmission tunnel
            #283: floor panels
Page 20 (https://www.acownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=1515.285):
            #285-291: panels for boot (trunk)
            #292: seat runners
            #293-294: brackets to fix the panel behind the seats
            #294: shoulder belt brackets
            #295: Motor change to Ford Zephyr and gearbox, strip
            #296: Zephyr cylinder head rebuild
            #299: flywheel, clutch plate, clutch cover rebuilds
           
Page 21 (https://www.acownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=1515.300):
            #300: Ford Zephyr motor and gearbox, installation
            #303: doors (foot box modifications, motor changed a Ford Zephyr), boot panels
            #304: rear inner wing panels
            #305: inner fender screens
            #313: floor panels and transmission tunnel (for different transmission)
            #314: radiator, cooling fan, inner fender panels
Page 22 (https://www.acownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=1515.315):
            #315: door jamb A-pillar panels
            #316: rocker panel reconstruction
            #317: “exploded” internal panels
            #318: stripped car with rear and roof remaining over frame
            #319: rebuilding front frame, Zephyr exhaust routing through floor outriggers
            #320: front brake line brackets, ENV differential mounting
            #321: removable inner front fender liners, battery tray
            #322: Zephyr muffler fitting, pedal box fitting
            #323: pedal box construction & fitting, battery tray fitting, heating system
            #324: heater installation
            #325: Zephyr muffler brackets, exhaust pipes
            #326: Zephyr header construction, exhaust pipes
            #327: A pillar base reconstruction
            #328: heater duct parts, pedals and pedal box, master cylinders
Page 23 (https://www.acownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=1515.330):
            #331: brake rotor dust covers
            #333: body panels below A pillars, leaf spring strengthening
            #334: JOKE about stripped frame
            #335: painted frame, beginning body reassembly
            #336-337: frame coating discussion
            #338: rear spring, modified front spring
            #338: new front spring mounting brackets, front and rear spring reassembly
            #339: wheel size
            #340: differential parts and reconstruction
            #342: differential seal fabrication
            #344: front and rear axle disassembly
Page 24 (https://www.acownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=1515.345):
            #345: rear hub problems
            #346: rear brake disassembly, lubrication, new dust covers
            #348: heat wrapping exhaust manifolds
            #348: hubs, spindles, and uprights back from painter
            #349: hand brake cables and ferrules
            #350: header gasket fabrication
            #351: parking brake mechanism and restoration
            #352: parking brake parts source
            #354: wheel spinner restoration
            #355: assembling rear hubs with new seals and brake linings
            #356: modified brake bleeders
            #358: reassembly of front hubs and brakes
            #358: dashboard reconstruction including instruments and glove box
            #359: return of complete body from body shop
            #358: headlight alignment
            #359: location and installation of front turn signals and bumper with overriders



OK, let's start ....
   
Title: BE 646
Post by: Gus Meyjes on March 21, 2011, 20:25:08
Oh brotherly love! And with some fine onlookers in the back ground!!
   
   Gus
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on May 12, 2011, 16:53:53
 
RESTORATION OF BE646 2011 - TO DATE (5 FEB 2021/MSG 359)
SUBJECT INDEX
# = message number   (p. x-y) = number of photo in separate linked pages at       
https://c.1und1.de/362516207/Qk7IjtyMTCmCqPrexFGo5A (https://c.1und1.de/362516207/Qk7IjtyMTCmCqPrexFGo5A)
 
 
Battery Box   
            #321: battery tray
            #323: battery tray fitting
Body Panel Repairs
            #189 (p. 276): stripped body
            #192: stripped body
            #210 (p. 332-333): discussion about removing roof and rear of body
            #318: stripped car with rear and roof remaining over frame
            #192 (p. 278-280): stripped body including inside roof above doors
            #317: “exploded” panels
            #196 (p. 287): reproduction VIN plate
Body reconstruction
            #335: beginning reassembly
A Pillars
            #315: A pillar repairs
            #327: A pillar reconstruction
            #333: body panels below A columns
B Pillars
            #40 (p. 43): right door jamb
            #65 (p. 68-69):  door jambs
            #226: B pillar braces
            #232-233 (p. 385-393): B pillar repair
            #234-238 (p. 394-400): B pillar bracing panels
            #239-244: B pillar bracing panels
            #247 (p. 406-410): better B pillar covers and bracing
Bonnet
            #157: before and after repairs
Boot (trunk) panels
            #46: repairs needed
            #285-291: making panels for boot               
            #294: old and new boot panels exploded
            #303: boot panels
            #305: boot panels and spare wheel cover
Fender panels and screens
            #304: rear inner fender wing panels
            #305: inner front fender screens and wing panels
            #314: inner fender panels in front of radiator
            #321: removable inner front fender liners
Floor Panels
            #283: floor panels
            #303: floors (Zephyr)
            #313: stronger floor panels (for Zephyr transmission)
Panel behind seats
            #25 (p. 20-21): panels behind seats
            #225 (p.366-369): fitting fiberglass panel
            #251 (p. 420-422): fiberglass panel behind seats
            #293-294: brackets to attach the panel behind the seats
Rear Body Panel Replacement
            #213
Rocker (Door Sill) Panels
            #206: sill repairs
            #222-224 (p. 356-366): right and left door sill repairs
            #231 (p. 380-385): rocker panel repair and replacement
            #245 (p. 400-403): rocker covers
            #303: rocker fitting
            #316: rocker panel reconstruction
Transmission Tunnel
            #282: transmission tunnel
            #283: transmission tunnel
            #313: transmission tunnel (for Zephyr transmission)
            #359: return of complete body from body shop
            #359: location and installation of front turn signals and bumper with overriders
Brakes and hubs
            #28 (p. 29): front disk and caliper
            #320: front brake line brackets
            #331: front disk brake covers
            #346: rear brake disassembly, lubrication, new dust covers
            #355: assembling rear hubs with new seals and brake linings
            #356: modified brake bleeders
            #358: reassembly of front hubs and brakes
Parking brake
            #7 (p. 14/455): parking brake handle
            #10: description of stock arrangement
            #52: as bought
            #54: as bought
            #56: originality of mount
            #134: handle
            #146: handle
            #186: complete assembly
            #349: hand brake cables and ferrules
            #351: parking brake mechanism and restoration
            #352: parking brake parts source
Bumpers
            #211: rear bumper brackets   
            #134 (p. 170-171): bumpers
Cabin
Dashboard     
            #59 (p. 63): dash etc (RH drive)
            #136-139 (p. 177-186): LH drive dashboard
            #141 (p.191-194): dash binnacle
            #153-156 (p. 201-213): dash
            #158-166 (p. 221-238): dash
            #291: aluminum dash
            #358: dashboard reconstruction including instruments and glove box
Footboxes
            #28: RH drive footboxes
            #59 (p. 63): footboxes (RH drive)
            #153-156 (p. 201-213): footbox modifications for 289
            #158-166 (p. 221-238): footbox modifications
            #171-172 (p. 246-252): footboxes
            #181 (p. 255-261): footbox modifications for clutch lever
            #197 (p. 288): footboxes
            #303: foot boxes for a Ford Zephyr 6
Interior
            #2 p. 1: left side in front of cabin
            #25 p. 19/455: cabin overhead light
            #152 (p. 199-200): cabin light
            Parking brake: See brakes above
Pedal Box
            #59: pedals
            #96 (p. 112-113): pedal box
            #171-172 (p. 246-252): pedal box
            #172: gas pedal
            #186: throttle pedal bracket finished
            #322: pedal box fitting
            #323: pedal box construction & fitting
            #328: pedal box powder coating and assembly
Rear View Mirror
            #169 (p. 240-243): rear view mirror
Seats
            #33 (p. 32-35): seats
            #71 (p. 73): seats
            #108 (p. 124): seat redo
            #292: seat runners
Seat Belts
            #281: seat belt anchor brackets
            #294: shoulder belt brackets
Carburetor
            #124: converting Holley Street Avenger to manual choke
Differential
            #62 (p. 63-66): rear frame and differential, ENV vs Jaguar differentials
            #68: weights
            #73: brackets
            #82 (p. 88-96): Jaguar differential mounting brackets
            #89: differential brackets
            #91 (p. 99-105): Jaguar differential mounting
            #93-94: differential mounting
            #120 (p. 140-151): differential, drive shaft, transmission mounts
            #122: differential mounts
            #139-141 (p. 187-190): upper differential bracket
            #168 (p. 239-240): differential rebuild
            #171 (p. 243-245): differential rebuild
            #186: finished brackets
            #190-191 (p. 277): differential gears and ratios
            #320: ENV differential for Zephyr
            #340: differential cleanup and reassembly
            #342: differential seal fabrication
Doors
            #3: as bought inner right side door
            #127 (p. 157-158): door fixes
            #232-233 (p. 385-393): door fitting, hinges
            #245: door sill fabrication and replacement
            #254 (p. 429-455): door rebuilding, fitting, and car VIN stamped in door
            #256-267: door rebuilding and fitting
            #264: window frames
            #271: front quarter window latches
            #273: adjustable door brace and door fitting adjustment
            #280: door frame and inside panels
            #303: doors and window frame mounts
            #303: front quarter windows
Drive Shafts
            #78: (p. 83): drive shafts (MkIV, new Aceca, original Aceca)
            #84-85: half shaft sources
            #120: Kirkham driveshaft
            #312: Zephyr drive shaft
Exhaust
            #319: exhaust routing through floor outriggers (Zephyr)
            #322: muffler and exhaust pipe fitting (Zephyr and all others)
            #325: muffler brackets (Zephyr)
            #326: exhaust header construction
            #348: heat wrapping exhaust manifolds
            #350: header gasket fabrication
Frame
            #5 wood repair using epoxy
            #56: alloy body nailed to framing
            #28 (p. 27-28): engine compartment looking fwd and backwards
            #46 (p. 47-48): rear framing & B pillars
            #52 (p. 50-52): frame and rockers
            #55 (p. 53-58): rear framing
            #57 (p. 59): front framing
            #57: frame rust prevention
            #59: looking back at rear frame from between doors
            #62 (p. 63-66): rear frame and differential mounts
            #112-113: determining strength of main frame tubes
            #181 (p. 261-267): borescope examination of inside frame tubes and discussion of strengthening needs
            #182-185: frame strength discussions
            #197-202 (p. 288-309): frame strength analysis and reinforcing tube insertion
            #199: old reinforcement tube for differential mounts
            #203: front subframe
            #204-205 (p. 318-321): closing frame holes
            #206-207 (p. 322-325): rocker repairs
            #208: upper rear shock mounts
            #211-213 (p. 334-338): rear frame repairs and how to do them
            #208 (p. 326-331): rear frame (behind seats) repairs
            #217 (p. 347-348): bracket for spare wheel fixing rod
            #221: alignment discussion
            #222: closing main frame tubes
            #222-224: sill frame reconstruction
            #225 (p.366-369): frame repairs behind seats
            #226 (p. 370): seat runner supports
            #226 (p. 370-372): B column brace
            #227: rear subframe
            #218 (p. 349): rear subframe complete
            #227 (p. 372-374): rear subframe installation
            #293: brackets to attached panel behind seats
            #315: door jamb A pillar panels
            #316: right side rocker repairs
            #317: front frame exposed
            #319: rebuilding front frame
            #327: framing reconstruction at bottom of A pillars
            #333: door jamb A pillar panels
            #334: JOKE about stripped frame
            #335: painted frame
            #336-337: frame coating
Fuel Tank
            #25 (p. 22): fuel tank mounting and rear frame
            #36 (p. 36): fuel tank internal plumbing
            #219: interference with A arm brackets
            #219-221 (p. 350): fitting fuel tank, repairing frame to suit.
            #246 (p. 404-405): fuel tank straps
            #294: installed
            #322: modifying fuel tank for Zephyr
Gearbox and Clutch
            #12: Ford 289 V8 and toploader
            #96: toploader in car
            #120: gearbox with drive shaft
            #120: half shafts
            #122: gearbox bracket
            #133: gearbox etc in car
            #295: Zephyr gearbox
            #299: Ford Type 9 gearbox
            #299: clutch and flywheel
            #300: Zephyr and gearbox
            #300: fitting gearbox to frame and footboxes
            #309: bell housing for Ford Type 9
Grease Gun
            #279: R&R
Hatch 
            #127: as bought
            #128 (p. 158): hatch
            #248-249 (p. 410-414): hatch window and fitting
            #252-253 (p. 423-429):  hatch R&R
            #253: hatch lock mount
Headers
            For 289
            #127: header on motor
            #133: new headers
            #133: mounting motor with headers
            #134: header problem with motor mount
            #157 (p. 216-220): making headers
            For Zephyr
            #326: header construction
Heater & Ventilation
            #69 (p. 70-71): MGA heater and duct
            #129 (p. 164): heater vents
            #172 (p. 252-253): foot box air vents
            #186: ducts
            #323: original heating system ducts
            #324: heater fitting and mounts (for Zephyr)
            #324: ducts
            #328: heater ducts and addition of heater ducts to Smiths heater
Horns
            #89 (p. 97): horns
Hubs
            #344: front and rear axle disassembly
            #345: rear hub problems
            #348: hubs, spindles, and uprights back from painter
Lights
            #37: tail lights
            #358: headlight alignment
Instruments
            #7: speedometer drive
            #60-61: speedometer cable discussion
            #125: speedometer cable discussion
            #142-145: speedometer and tachometer mounting in binnacle
Motors
            #12 (p. 13/455): Ford 289 and toploader
            #28: 289 vs Daimler V8
            #29-31: comparing motor weights
Carburetor
            #124: converting Holley Street Avenger to manual choke
Zephyr
            #295: Ford Zephyr Mk II motor and gearbox
            #295: stripping block
            #296: stripping head
            #297: flywheel, friction plate, clutch cover
            #300: Zephyr motor and gearbox much longer and narrower than 289 and toploader
            #300-302: fitting Zephyr in car
            #306: Zephyr connecting rods
            #307: valve gear, water pump, oil filter
            #308: assembling intake and carburetors
            #308: fitting in car
            #311: distributor and ignition system
            #312: accessory brackets, oil pan, oil temp sensor, engine mounts, drive shaft
            #312: starter
Motor and Gearbox Mounts
            #94 (p. 105-110): mounting 289 and toploader
            #97 (p. 113-119): engine mounts
            #120: motor mount
            #133  (p. 169-170): frame modifications to fit motor and gearbox
            #133: mounting motor and transmission in car
            #134 (p. 172-173): motor mounts
            #178 (p. 254-255): transverse brace for preventing engine mount rotation (note that mounts are clamped, not welded, to the frame to make motor change possible)
            #194 (p. 281-286): improved engine mounts
            #202-204 (p. 312-317): another improved engine mount to brace frame alignment
            #228-229 (p. 375-380): improved engine mounts
            #229-230: drive shaft safety loop
            #309: Ford Type 9 gearbox fitting
Radiator
            #28: radiator and fan
            #314: radiator
Cooling Fan
            #314: cooling fan
Replating
            #151-152 various parts before and after
Reservoirs     
            #132) (p. 167): clutch and brake fluid reservoirs
Steering
            #98-100 (p. 119-123): steering gear
            #102-107: rack and pinion conversion discussion
            #109 (p. 125): rack and pinion mountings
            #119: steering
            #123: steering rack placement
            #114-118: steering discussions
            #118 (p. 130-140): steering discussion and x-ray
            #120: steering shaft mount
            #135 (p. 176-177): steering shaft location
            #172: steering column mounting bracket
            #178: steering shaft mounting
            #186: upper steering column bracket
Suspension
            #187 (p. 271-273): removing running gear/A arms (wishbones)/suspension
            #208: upper rear shock mounts
            #216 (p. 342-345): shock absorber bracket repairs & others
            #216: right rear lower A-arm bracket repairs
            #219: right rear lower A-arm bracket repairs
            #220: front lower A-arm brackets and repairs
            #219-221 (p. 350): discussion of A-arm bracket alignment misalignment etc
            #250 (p. 415-419): rear right lower A-arm bracket repair and modification
            #250: front A-arm stiffening
            #251: finished rear A-arms
            #333: addition of front leaf spring leaves
            #338: rear spring, modified front spring
            #338: new front spring mounting brackets
            #338: reassembly of front and rear springs
Washer:
            #96: wheelbox R&R
Weights
            #30-31: motor and gearbox weights
Wheels
            #51: wheel specifications
            #339: wheel specifications
Wiper
            #70 (p. 72-73): wiper wiring
            #74, 77 (p. 76-81): windshield wiper motor and mechanism
Zephyr:
            #295: motor and gearbox
            #296: motor
            #299: clutch and flywheel
            #300: motor and gearbox
            #300: motor vs 289
            #300: motor and gearbox in car
            #300: new transmission tunnel
            #309: bell housing for Ford Type 9 gearbox
            #312: in car
 



What do I do with the Aceca? Well, I try to get it on the road. For that I had a lot of small jobs. Today, I installed a hazard switch. Not so easy to detect the right wires for the brake light switch and the flasher can in an unknown wire loom. Both must be disconnected from the ignition and must be connected to the hazyrd switch so that in the case of switched on ignition, switched on hazard switch and pushing the brake the hazard switch has the highest priority.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on August 09, 2011, 11:29:15
If you ever wanted to know what's inside of an Aceca door, it's wood:

And if you have used your car in rain during the last 50 years, it's dilapidated wood:
   
That gives the door some kind of flexibility [xx(]
Title: BE 646
Post by: Gus Meyjes on August 09, 2011, 13:54:16
wow,
   
   I was lucky I still had good wood...[;)]
   
   That will need the skills of a good cabinet maker in order to get the curves just right!
   
   Gus
Title: BE 646
Post by: AEX566 on August 10, 2011, 00:07:07
As the door frame's not cosmetic wood, you might consider using the marine repair system for rotted wood: small holes are drilled in from above, then special thin penetrating epoxy that seeps into the wood is injected down filling holes using a syringe. This solution results in a solid, strong section. Beyond boat repair, this is often used for architectural restoration of bad windowsills and frames.  You'd save unwrapping the aluminum door skin at the bottom, and the result is as strong if not stronger than the original ash. Finish up by coating and sealing all the inside door wood with epoxy so moisture can't penetrate. Check boat repair vendors for correct epoxy; in the US one brand is Git-Rot. There are a number of You Tube videos to watch as well.
   If the door has sagged on the rear lower corner as the screws have loosened in the bad wood, use a Spanish windless to realign and then renew the corner ply. Of course if all the wood in the door is bad, go for the cabinet maker.
   Art
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on August 11, 2011, 14:32:58
quote:
Originally posted by AEX566
   
As the door frame's not cosmetic wood, you might consider using the marine repair system for rotted wood: small holes are drilled in from above, then special thin penetrating epoxy that seeps into the wood is injected down filling holes using a syringe. This solution results in a solid, strong section. Beyond boat repair, this is often used for architectural restoration of bad windowsills and frames.  You'd save unwrapping the aluminum door skin at the bottom, and the result is as strong if not stronger than the original ash. Finish up by coating and sealing all the inside door wood with epoxy so moisture can't penetrate. Check boat repair vendors for correct epoxy; in the US one brand is Git-Rot. There are a number of You Tube videos to watch as well.
   If the door has sagged on the rear lower corner as the screws have loosened in the bad wood, use a Spanish windless to realign and then renew the corner ply. Of course if all the wood in the door is bad, go for the cabinet maker.
   Art
   

   
   Art,
   
   thank you for your advice. When the time has come to make the doors I will check the possibility. Currently, I am working on small items in order to get the car on the road.
   
   Regards,
   
   Peter
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on August 11, 2011, 14:39:39
I think I know why the speedometer doesn't work. Maybe it's this strange looking elbow gear at the transmission:
   
This should work better:
   
   Now, I have two questions:
   
   1) is it normal that the hand brake lever is not covered:
      
   2) Is this the normal transmission of an Aceca or something else:
   
Title: BE 646
Post by: Robin A Woolmer on August 11, 2011, 16:20:01
Handbrake looks none standard & the Moss Box appears from a Jag MK2 but i am not an Aceca Specialist.
   Robin
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on August 11, 2011, 16:31:02
quote:
Originally posted by Robin A Woolmer
   
Handbrake looks none standard & the Moss Box appears from a Jag MK2 but i am not an Aceca Specialist.
   Robin
   

   
   The engine is a Daimler 2.5 V8. This may fit the Jag MK2 Moss Box.
Title: BE 646
Post by: bex316 on August 12, 2011, 01:05:18
The handbrake lever and its operating mechanism look standard Ace/Aceca to me but the tower on which it is mounted does not look familiar to me.
   The operating mechanism should be covered with a piece of carpet, actually consisting of 3 pieces sewn together (upper part and 2 sides). The upper part should have an opening at the front through which the lever can slide up and down.
   
   Jerry
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on August 12, 2011, 16:08:22
quote:
Originally posted by bex316
   
The handbrake lever and its operating mechanism look standard Ace/Aceca to me but the tower on which it is mounted does not look familiar to me.
   The operating mechanism should be covered with a piece of carpet, actually consisting of 3 pieces sewn together (upper part and 2 sides). The upper part should have an opening at the front through which the lever can slide up and down.
   
   Jerry
   

   
   Jerry,
   
   please, can you send me a picture of this cover?
   
   Peter
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on August 25, 2011, 09:39:03
Yes, it's a shame but this will be the new drive-train:
   
   A 1964 289 cid Ford with a top-loader.
Title: BE 646
Post by: Gus Meyjes on August 25, 2011, 15:48:30
not a shame if you did not have the original motor anyway... be sure to beef up the rest of the drive train.
   
   Gus
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on August 25, 2011, 16:05:35
quote:
Originally posted by Gus Meyjes
   
not a shame if you did not have the original motor anyway... be sure to beef up the rest of the drive train.
   
   Gus
   

   
   I plan to use a Jag diff. and there are some drive shafts from my MK IV laying around [:)]
Title: BE 646
Post by: nikbj68 on August 25, 2011, 16:07:19
Oh wow, I just noticed the tax disc on the drivers` seat only expired in April this year,
   
   (http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r138/dkp_cobra/BE%20646/IMGP5189.jpg)
   
   meaning that the Aceca was road legal when you bought it! So technically, there shouldn`t be too much to do to get it on the road again, but obviously the restoration you want to achieve is way above & beyond that! Great engine/box, we know it will be fantastic when you`ve finished, and we look forward to following progress. [:)]
Title: BE 646
Post by: AEX566 on August 25, 2011, 17:54:40
Peter;
   Do you plan to convert to left hand drive?
   Art
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on August 26, 2011, 08:37:53
quote:
Originally posted by AEX566
   
Peter;
   Do you plan to convert to left hand drive?
   Art
   

   
   Art,
   
   I think I will do it. I drove a Cobra replica (the starting of this hobby some years ago) with right hand drive. It is nice to drive but the action of passing other cars on country roads is not so nice.
   
   Also, I think that the current steering will contact the new engine and must be modified. Why not modifiy it to LHS.
   
   Peter
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on August 26, 2011, 08:45:22
Quote
Oh wow, I just noticed the tax disc on the drivers` seat only expired in April this year, meaning that the Aceca was road legal when you bought it! So <i>technically</i>, there shouldn`t be <i>too much</i> to do to get it on the road again,
   

   
   Well, I got the impression that there are little differences between the german and the UK demand for "ok for the street" [;)]
   
Quote
but obviously the restoration you want to achieve is way above & beyond that! Great engine/box, we know it will be fantastic when you`ve finished, and we look forward to following progress. [:)]
   
   This process will take much more time as the MK IV since my new mechanic will take some time before she is able to help me. Currently, she uses her car (in the middle) much more:
   
   (https://s19.postimg.org/qb1c5j083/IMGP4842.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: Gus Meyjes on August 26, 2011, 19:09:12
looks like about the same ride height as your Cobra...
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on November 22, 2011, 14:18:36
Today, I tried to get a historic registration for german roads, but the car is too ugly for that kind of registration [xx(] I can get a normal on but not this special kind of registration.
   
Well, than the restauration has to start. To do this in a nice atmosphere I prettify my garage:
   
This picture shows the Aceca 1959 at the Monte Carlo Rallye, driven by the first owner Stan Coldham.
Title: BE 646
Post by: Gus Meyjes on November 22, 2011, 19:31:10
That is your car? Very cool!
   
   Gus
Title: BE 646
Post by: Gus Meyjes on November 22, 2011, 21:38:01
with that new drive train, you may want to get a few more spokes in those wheels...
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on November 23, 2011, 08:13:30
quote:
Originally posted by Gus Meyjes
   
with that new drive train, you may want to get a few more spokes in those wheels...
   

   
   Gus,
   
   do you want to say that I should buy your wheels [:)] Maybe Berit could put them into her suitcase ...
   
   Best regards,
   
   Peter
Title: BE 646
Post by: Gus Meyjes on November 23, 2011, 12:34:43
Peter,
   
   I never thought of that! But now that you mention it...
   
   I think we could stuff a few wheels in her suitcase...
   
   Gus
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on January 03, 2012, 14:03:54
New year is a chance to start with the restauration. I love the diversity of the used screws:
   
   Since I want to start with changing the drivetrain, first with the differential I think it is good to remove the panels from the boot in order to have space for the work:
   
   The previous owners change some things:
   
   Below the panels it doesn't look so bad as the panels and the wood in the doors (!!!) would suggest:
   
   
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on January 11, 2012, 16:24:59
Removing the exhaust:
   
   It was fixed at the frame without any rubbers between:
   
   That gave a quite nice sound [xx(]
   
   There were some corrugation on the left rear wing:
   
   I found 4,5 mm body filler:
   
   I thing there was a light accident there and it was not so easy to get behind the wing to buckle this.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on January 13, 2012, 15:07:04
These Aceca doors are not what I would call a "lightweight construction". One door weigh 18.3 kg. I will investigate what is so heavy.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on January 31, 2012, 17:03:03
No tank anymore ...
   
   ... and no engine, nor transmission:
   
   I think a little bit color and the car will be as new [B)]
   
   The Dart 2.5 V8 engine is not so small as I expected when it was inside the engine bay. Comparing it with the Ford 289:
   
   But the Moss box is really sweet:
   
   Does anybody know these front brakes and calipers?
   
Title: BE 646
Post by: Aceca289 on February 02, 2012, 04:28:30
Peter,
   
   Thanks for sharing all the pictures of your naked Aceca. Many of the shots are familiar to the ones I took of my car over the last 5 years of restoration work, although you have a number of areas exposed that I didn’t get to with my work.
   
   The pictures of the old 2.5 liter Dart/Daimler Lump next to the 289 make it look like it weighs as much or more than the 289. I was curious so I checked Wikipedia and found the 2.5 Lump weighs approximately 419lbs (190kg) and the 289 weighs 506lbs (230kg). It must be those massive aluminum heads on the Daimler that make it look so heavy. Does anyone know the weights of the AC six, the Bristol six, and the 2.6 Zephyr six for comparison?  I’ve always understood that the 289 didn’t weigh that much more than the AC or Bristol engines due to its thin wall casting.
   
   John
Title: BE 646
Post by: jrlucke on February 02, 2012, 18:31:12
There was discussion around weight differences last July (http://www.acownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1960).
   
   Looks to be a 150-200 KG difference model to model (not all due to engine weight, gearboxes, wheels/tires, etc.).
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on February 03, 2012, 12:30:30
quote:
Originally posted by Aceca289
   
Peter,
   
   Thanks for sharing all the pictures of your naked Aceca. Many of the shots are familiar to the ones I took of my car over the last 5 years of restoration work, although you have a number of areas exposed that I didn’t get to with my work.
   
   The pictures of the old 2.5 liter Dart/Daimler Lump next to the 289 make it look like it weighs as much or more than the 289. I was curious so I checked Wikipedia and found the 2.5 Lump weighs approximately 419lbs (190kg) and the 289 weighs 506lbs (230kg). It must be those massive aluminum heads on the Daimler that make it look so heavy. Does anyone know the weights of the AC six, the Bristol six, and the 2.6 Zephyr six for comparison?  I’ve always understood that the 289 didn’t weigh that much more than the AC or Bristol engines due to its thin wall casting.
   
   John
   
   

   
   John,
   
   with the current Daimler engine the car had a weight of:
   
   
   so altogether a weight of 1050 kg. With the Ford 289, the Toploader and the Jag Diff the car will be more heavy. Let's see.
   
   Peter
Title: BE 646
Post by: Klassik Metall on February 04, 2012, 12:25:13
The front brakes look very like Triumph TR3 type B split calipers, rather than the one piece A type normally fitted to some Aces. The discs could also be TR3 but one of the AC specialists in the UK should be able to tell you for sure.
   
   Good luck with the rebuild.
   
   Luke.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on February 08, 2012, 17:01:28
The naked seats. An interested construction: lightweight but quite stiff:
   
   The condition is not bad but there are 4 small cracks at the rear bottom:
   
Title: BE 646
Post by: Robin A Woolmer on February 08, 2012, 17:48:54
Gerry Hawkridge is making new seat frames to the correct specification if you need new seat frames etc.
   
   Robin
Title: BE 646
Post by: Migge on February 09, 2012, 08:49:19
Just cover them with a new sheet of alloy at the bottom as a second layer. New ones will brake again.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on February 11, 2012, 15:43:15
I removed the panels from the seats:
   
   But why has this tank the feature of a reserve tank? You can see the two pipes of different length. The shorter is normally used and if it tries to pump air you have to close a valve and the other pipe is used. I know this concept from old race cars where you had two fuel pumps but why do I have something like this a normal street car with a fuel instrument?
   
   Compared to the boot of the AC MK IV the Aceca has much more curves. I cannot use a sheet metal bender to make the panels. My panel maker told me I have to do it by hand using this tool here:
   
   My first try (I think I need more training):
   
   This project will take a loooong time ...
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on February 15, 2012, 17:08:36
I removed the rear lamps. Not the best solution to braze the wires to the lamp:
   
   The right lamp had much longer screws than the left lamp. Maybe because the is a little bit more body filler:
   After removing this (a real dirty job) I could see the crash the car has with the right rear side. The repair was not good. The one angle (compared to the other) is ok:
   
   but the other is not:
   
   (left correct side)
   
   (right damaged side)
   
   How the rear lamp was fitted without the body filler:
   
   Curious, together with the car I got a replacement for the left side [B)]
   
Title: BE 646
Post by: Gus Meyjes on February 15, 2012, 19:06:56
Holy Cr#p,
   
   You've got some work on your hands!! Probably dropped about 50 pounds of filler there!! [;)]
   
   Soldering the wire to the light.. someone got tired of wiggling the contacts to make them work!
   
   Keep us updated Peter!
   
   Love to see your progress
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on February 16, 2012, 13:31:31
quote:
Originally posted by Gus Meyjes
   
Holy Cr#p,
   
   You've got some work on your hands!! Probably dropped about 50 pounds of filler there!! [;)]
   
   Soldering the wire to the light.. someone got tired of wiggling the contacts to make them work!
   
   Keep us updated Peter!
   
   Love to see your progress
   

   
   Yes, and further 50 pounds of dirt in the inner fenders. Look like original "'59 Monte Carlo dirt". Anyone interested? I can make an interesting price [:)]
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on February 16, 2012, 13:34:00
New surprise in the area or the right B-pillar. Looks like contact corrosion. At the bottom inside someone tried to "repair" this with GRP.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on February 17, 2012, 10:33:20
The carpet has a slight flavour of patina. Maybe I can reuse it [;)].
Title: BE 646
Post by: nikbj68 on February 17, 2012, 17:02:06
quote:
Originally posted by dkp_cobra...Look like original "'58 Monte Carlo dirt"...[:)]
Aceca refuelling on the `56 Monté, British Pathé Newsreel (http://"http://www.britishpathe.com/video/bmc-ladies-first") 10minutes 50seconds in, then oil check & bonnet tightening? at 11:05. [8D]
   Is the exhaust on fire @ 11:17?
Title: BE 646
Post by: Gus Meyjes on February 19, 2012, 19:42:13
Peter, your carpet looks just as great as mine did!! I kept mine, in a box... dank smell and all! Still need those wheels? How was dinner?
   
   Nik, you always manage to dig up cool stuff!
   
   Gus
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on February 20, 2012, 07:33:23
Gus,
   
   dinner was great, we saw pictures of you and your family and I could detected more similarities. You can see it in the back of my garage: Underground boards and Core kites [:D]
   
   We also discussed how Berit could manage to get the wheels into her suitcase [:)] But I heard that you will come to good old europe. I hope you and your family will visit us.
   
   Regards,
   
   Peter
Title: BE 646
Post by: Gus Meyjes on February 21, 2012, 01:00:52
Peter, I cannot come to Europe and not pay a visit to Oldenburg!
   Where do you ride? Sylt? Anything closer to home? Who'd have thought? Ac's and Kites go together well!
   
   Gus
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on February 21, 2012, 08:44:59
The resin here doesn't look original and I think it is a bad sign:
   
   But it is not so bad as I expected:
   
   The other side looks better:
   
   There was 10 cm dirt behind the panel with mummified spider and sowbugs:
   
   After stripping the last panels of the boot the sub-structure is visible. That's surprisingly good. Only one rotten tube:
   
   and one slightly bended tube:
   
   I think the car hat a small hit on the right rear. That explains the 10 mm body filler. Inside the body it doesn't look so bad:
   
Title: BE 646
Post by: Migge on February 21, 2012, 09:00:08
I hope for you that after sandblasting the complete frame, your face still lokks friendly :-)
   
   Best wishes
   Migge
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on February 21, 2012, 09:53:35
quote:
Originally posted by Migge
   
I hope for you that after sandblasting the complete frame, your face still lokks friendly :-)
   
   Best wishes
   Migge
   

   
   This makes me nervous, Migge [:0]
Title: BE 646
Post by: Migge on February 21, 2012, 17:53:28
Yes, you should be getting nervous Peter :-)
   
   What you see now is just the beginning, that's a fact. I know it from other frames of other cars. If you have a small hole where water could find it's way into the tube it's inside rotten too and the bottom also, where it is welded to another tube. I think you have to replace a few more tubes you think of now.
Title: BE 646
Post by: Gus Meyjes on February 21, 2012, 18:18:58
Sure looks like you will be pulling the body.... ouch![xx(]
   But it makes for all the more entertaining reporting for us to see!! [:D]
   
   Gus
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on February 23, 2012, 11:32:01
quote:
Originally posted by Gus Meyjes
   
with that new drive train, you may want to get a few more spokes in those wheels...
   

   
   Yesterday, I checked the wheels and counted the spokes: 72. I think that should be ok. The wheels are 15x6 with a backspacing of 2" rear and 3,5" front.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on February 23, 2012, 11:43:17
Removing the panels from the floor:
   
   more wood but in good condition:
   
   on both sides:
   
   The rotten tube on the one side is not a surprise, I could see that during the inspection.
   
   The main frame is quite strong in this area:
   
   Now, the inner rear fender are removed:
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on February 23, 2012, 11:44:57
quote:
Originally posted by Migge
   
Yes, you should be getting nervous Peter :-)
   
   What you see now is just the beginning, that's a fact. I know it from other frames of other cars. If you have a small hole where water could find it's way into the tube it's inside rotten too and the bottom also, where it is welded to another tube. I think you have to replace a few more tubes you think of now.
   

   
   If it would be easy, everybody could do it [:D]
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on February 23, 2012, 11:46:04
One question for the Aceca owners. Is that square box below the hand brake lever original?
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on February 24, 2012, 12:44:33
After removing the wall behind the seats we can see the complex structure of the sub-frame:
   
   And of course more wood in the area of the B-pillar which is rotten because its lower part was used as inner fender:
   
Title: BE 646
Post by: Klassik Metall on February 24, 2012, 18:34:16
I think the box below the handbrake and the steel angle section along the tunnel are not original. I guess someone wanted to strengthen the handbrake mount and provide a fixing for seat belts. When you want to remove the plywood from the back of the B post you will find that it is also securing the edge of the rear wing panel, there are small nails passing through the aluminium hiding under the paint and filler. Happy hunting![:)]
   
   Regards Luke.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on February 28, 2012, 12:23:15
Removing the front inner fender, the cooler and the panels in this area:
   
   As expected here are the most rust problems:
   
   The tube 1 looks much bigger then 2, but 2 is original 1 was covered or replaced by a bigger one. Tube 4 is rusted through, 3 looks good at first but is badly repaired. So both must be replaced.
   
   The problem in this area is a construction problem. Some panels are mounted at the tubes 3, 4 and 5. Everytime you drive through the rain water intrudes into these tubes via this mounting holes. The water cannot leave the tubes and the corrosion process starts from inside. The same problem still existed with the MK IV. A small hole drilled at the deepest point of these tubes solves this problem.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on March 12, 2012, 12:23:51
The A-pillar looks quite good under the aluminium cover:
   
   
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on March 14, 2012, 18:59:52
The brake fluid looks like new. I think I can reuse it [:)]
   
   The pedals have three layers of rubber:
   
   Was it normal in the 60th to have sandpaper below your shoes?
   
   The footbox is removed and I can see all the tubes:
   
   Really, an impressive piece of craftsmen work this structure. I would like to know what such a chassis would cost today.
   
Title: BE 646
Post by: 3.8Jaguar on March 20, 2012, 17:06:18
I know its only a minor thing but sometimes these are the things that really infuriate! Your Tacho angle drive, It is a common over sight that tacho drive cables are manufactured to the direction of drive, if the direction of the wind of the cable is in the wrong direction it will try to unwind and eventually break.
   As I say its only a minor thing but easily forgotten.
   
   We can manufacture inner cables with correct square drives and ferrules in the right direction for your drive average cost for a special is £25
   
   www.bristolengineering.co.uk
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on March 22, 2012, 16:29:38
quote:
Originally posted by 3.8Jaguar
   
I know its only a minor thing but sometimes these are the things that really infuriate! Your Tacho angle drive, It is a common over sight that tacho drive cables are manufactured to the direction of drive, if the direction of the wind of the cable is in the wrong direction it will try to unwind and eventually break.
   As I say its only a minor thing but easily forgotten.
   
   We can manufacture inner cables with correct square drives and ferrules in the right direction for your drive average cost for a special is £25
   
   www.bristolengineering.co.uk
   

   
   thank you for pointing to this problem. I guess this was really the mistake done with this transmission. I will replace the Moss Box by a Toploader. I don't know whether I will use a angle drive. Thank you for your offer.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on March 22, 2012, 16:36:41
Removing the ENV differential and the drive shafts:
   
   Comparing the ENV (left) and the Jag (right) differential. The Jag is not bigger but the flange of the drive shafts are much bigger. The weight difference is 7 kg (ENV: 39 kg; Jag: 46 kg).
   
   This will be the next step: thinking about how the Jag differential will fit into the Aceca. I know it must work somehow since I saw such a conversion.
Title: BE 646
Post by: Gus Meyjes on March 22, 2012, 23:33:21
Peter,
   
   I don't know what the geometry is of the Aceca, but there are brackets available to mount the Salisbury in an Ace/289. If you can't find anything I can link you up with some people on this side of the planet.
   
   Gus
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on March 23, 2012, 18:45:31
quote:
Originally posted by Gus Meyjes
   
Peter,
   
   I don't know what the geometry is of the Aceca, but there are brackets available to mount the Salisbury in an Ace/289. If you can't find anything I can link you up with some people on this side of the planet.
   
   Gus
   

   
   Gus,
   
   I know these brackets. I think Kirkham offers these, but they don't work for Aceca's. To make new brackets is not the problem. The problem for me is to find a source for these big bounded bushes. So if anyone knows where I can buy these bounded metal bushes please let me know. Original these bushes are Metalastik 131860.
   
   Peter
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on March 23, 2012, 18:51:06
Today, I had a closer look at the area around the right rear bumper and the panels covering the B-pillar. I think theses panels must be replaced.
   
   The current weight of the car with front and rear axles without differential and drive shafts is 435 kg. I expected less but I am quite sure that half of the weight is the body filler [xx(]
Title: BE 646
Post by: Gus Meyjes on March 23, 2012, 19:49:06
The bracket that holds the pinion may fit, Ron(my fabricator extraordinaire) had to fabricate a bracket to hold the rubber damper "tubes". I think he made a template. I'll ask him. The dampers were available here trough Sagebrush roadsters. I can email you an email and link.
   
   Gus
Title: BE 646
Post by: Robin A Woolmer on March 23, 2012, 20:05:38
I do not know the size of the bonded bushes you require but try ' www.robush.co.uk ' they might be able to assist.
   
   Robin
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on April 16, 2012, 14:55:22
The comparison of the differential weight was a little bit wrong. The ENV has already the mounting brackets the Jag not. So, the weight difference will be much bigger than 7 kg. We will see when the brackets are finished.
   
   As mentioned before the flange for the drive shafts are bigger (too big):
   
   They cannot turn in the frame of the car. So we will modify the Jag diff.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on May 03, 2012, 17:17:36
While I am thinking about how to make progress with the differentail case I have some time for minor things. The car had no heater so I bought a new heater from an MGA:
   
   It works fine but I have the impression that the MGA heater is bigger than its engine ...
   
   I also bought air inlet ducts from an MGA:
   
   They have a bigger ID and a different angle than the original but I think that this would not be a problem.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on May 10, 2012, 13:29:12
Currently, I am working on the wiper motor. This Lucas DR3 is really fascinating with it's feature that in the park mode the wiper turns back not only to the normal park position but a little bit further by switching the rotation of the engine.
   
   This DR3 unit works together with the Lucas PRS7 switch. The "AC Cobra Chassis Construction Book" contains at page 50 a wiring diagram for both units. That's fine but it describes which color (of the DR3 unit) must be connected to which number of the switch. My wires had all the same color: something between brown and mud black. I opened the unit and try to understand how this unit works.
   
   Based on this quite useful link DR1 & DR3 wiper motor (http://"http://www.stretton.tv/DR1%20motor.html") I made my own diagrams. What is different is the swaping of the red and brown wire and the connection to the switch are a little bit different.
   
   We can see that in the park position the polarity of the coil field is switched, the polarity of the armature is still the same.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on May 15, 2012, 10:18:41
The seat frames are back from powder coating and the aluminium panels are cleaned and the critical parts are enforced. Now, it's time for the saddler:
Title: BE 646
Post by: Gus Meyjes on May 15, 2012, 14:57:00
Peter,
   
   You sure keep moving on this thing. Can't wait to see it finished! Did you ever find the proper brackets for the diff? What we have is not the Kirkham stuff.
   
   
   Gus
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on May 15, 2012, 19:59:02
Quote
Originally posted by Gus Meyjes</i>
   
Peter,
   
   You sure keep moving on this thing. Can't wait to see it finished! Did you ever find the proper brackets for the diff? What we have is not the Kirkham stuff.
   
   
   Gus
   
   
   Gus,
   
   I decide to make my own brackets. It took some time to find some bonded bushes and some pipes to take these. Now, I have all together. The bounded bushes have the same i.d. but a much smaller o.d. which makes them much stronger and gave me more space for the brackets. I hope the vibration absorption will be ok.
   
   It wasn't so easy to find pipes with the correct size with a strong wall thickness. Even the local steel whole sale had to order it and I was forced to buy a complete standard length, i.e. 6 m!!! I only need 35 cm. So if anybody plans to make new brackets ...
   
   Peter
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on May 15, 2012, 20:05:13
I got some other parts from the powder coating. The good old DB10 relay. Now, I can read the numbers again:
   
   The wiper motor housing looks nice powder coated:
   
   but I had to notice after assembling that it doesn't work anymore. There is so less space in the housing that the armature contacted the inside powder coating:
   
   I removed it in this area:
   
   Now, it works wonderful:
Title: BE 646
Post by: nikbj68 on May 15, 2012, 20:20:58
Now that, my friend, is how to do restoration! Great to follow your efforts, and admire your results! [8)]
Title: BE 646
Post by: Gus Meyjes on May 16, 2012, 00:14:58
[:)][:)][:)]
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on May 18, 2012, 20:06:30
The overhauling of the wiper unit is nearly finished. How it looked before:
   
   Since the tubes were rusty I powder coated them.
   
   The wiper wheelboxes got new gaskets. What is missing is a new chromium coating of the outer brezel.
   
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on May 24, 2012, 14:28:09
Today, it's a little bit like christmas. New parts arrived. I bought a repro Lucas washer bottle. You can see that's a reproduction but it's much better than the plastic bottles available so far. It looks nice:
   
   And I got new drive shafts. The old were damaged and I wanted new drive shafts which are strong enough for the new engine. From left to right: original MK IV, new Aceca, original Aceca. I think I can tune up the engine a little bit before the new drive shafts say "no" [:)]
   
Title: BE 646
Post by: Klassik Metall on May 25, 2012, 07:58:46
Sorry if this is a bit late for your project but it may be of help to others, the correct Metalastik bushes for the Aceca diff housing are available from Brian Eacott. They are fitted as pairs so six are needed in all.
   
   Regards Luke.
Title: BE 646
Post by: Gus Meyjes on May 25, 2012, 19:25:12
Peter,
   
   I may plan a trip to Holland in the winter or spring of next year. More than likely will visit Berit and her family. Would love to come and check out your cars!! Maybe we can hook up sometime?
   
   Gus
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on May 26, 2012, 10:45:04
quote:
Originally posted by Gus Meyjes
   
Peter,
   
   I may plan a trip to Holland in the winter or spring of next year. More than likely will visit Berit and her family. Would love to come and check out your cars!! Maybe we can hook up sometime?
   
   Gus
   

   
   Gus,
   
   that sounds great but I am afraid that a "check out" of my cars in winter (or spring what is nearly the same here [xx(]) is not possible. But I read that you love to look at these vars. That won't be a problem [:D]
   
   Peter
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on May 26, 2012, 10:58:29
Quote
Originally posted by Klassik Metall
   
Sorry if this is a bit late for your project but it may be of help to others, the correct Metalastik bushes for the Aceca diff housing are available from Brian Eacott. They are fitted as pairs so six are needed in all.
   
   Regards Luke.
   
   
   Hi Luke,
   
   thank you for your notice. Never mind that is too late for me because I couldn't use the original bushes anyway. The original bushes have a much bigger o.d. than the new one:
   
   (the white PE bush is only for construction purposes)
   
   The smaller bushes allows me to lower the differential case:
   
   and that's necessary because the JAG diff. case is much higher than the ENV case. I have nearly no space on top:
   
Currently, I have no idea how to make the upper bracket.
Title: BE 646
Post by: AcecaRacer on June 04, 2012, 07:05:06
Hi,
   
   Could you please tell me where you got the "new" Aceca Axles?  I just blew up my second stub axle and the one's you have look like they are much more stout.
   
   Are the a direct replacement for the stock originals?  They looks so.
   
   Please advise ASAP!
   
   Thanks SO much for sharing this rebuild...Extremely helpful.
   
   Cheers,
   Rob Fisher
   BE603 - Racecar
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on June 04, 2012, 12:48:52
quote:
Originally posted by AcecaRacer
   
Hi,
   
   Could you please tell me where you got the "new" Aceca Axles?  I just blew up my second stub axle and the one's you have look like they are much more stout.
   
   Are the a direct replacement for the stock originals?  They looks so.
   
   Please advise ASAP!
   
   Thanks SO much for sharing this rebuild...Extremely helpful.
   
   Cheers,
   Rob Fisher
   BE603 - Racecar
   

   
   Hi Rob,
   
   yes, they are a direct replacement with the only difference that the holes for the bolts are not 3/8" but M10, so they are 0,4 mm bigger. That should be ok or just use M10 bolts.
   
   I got them from these guys EDS Driveshaft (http://"http://www.eds-driveshaft.com/index.php?id=7&L=1"). The article number is:
   
   03600151
   
   The detailed description:
   
   201.05
   4200.1052.0280
   FLM SAE 97/04-10,2
   LZ=280
   
   I guess that the 10,2 means the bolt diameter. They have a company in USA. Hope this helps. If not, please contact me.
   
   Regards,
   
   Peter
Title: BE 646
Post by: Klassik Metall on June 04, 2012, 16:46:09
Hello Rob,
   
   If you are also looking for a heavy duty replacement for the stub axle/hub assembly, then a
   stronger version that does away with the problematic taper and keyway arrangement, is now available from Nigel Winchester ( Tel. 0044 7831 433 100).
   
   He has an advert for these parts in this months ACtion.
   
   Best regards Luke.
Title: BE 646
Post by: AcecaRacer on June 05, 2012, 01:30:48
Outstanding!  Thanks very much.  Looks like it's exactly what I need.
   
   Cheers,
   Rob
Title: BE 646
Post by: Aceca289 on June 06, 2012, 07:29:44
quote:
Originally posted by Klassik Metall
   
Hello Rob,
   
   If you are also looking for a heavy duty replacement for the stub axle/hub assembly, then a
   stronger version that does away with the problematic taper and keyway arrangement, is now available from Nigel Winchester ( Tel. 0044 7831 433 100).
   
   He has an advert for these parts in this months ACtion.
   
   Best regards Luke.
   

   Luke,
   
   Thanks for pointing out the new splined stub axels that Nigel Winchester is supplying (I paged right by them this month). These certainly look like they will remedy the problem. I have two stub axel paper weights (broken clean where the keyway ends) in a box of spare parts my dad gave me with my car, and one axel removed from my car during restoration was nearing failure with the keyway enlarged to nearly twice the normal width.[:(] This is understandable with the hipo 289 I have producing about 270 hp, or a race prepared Bristol powered Aceca like Rob’s. The stub axels are certainly a weak link in the Ace / Aceca design.
   
   Rob,
   
   You will have to let me know how the new sub axels from Nigel perform. It was good to meet up with you last weekend at the Sonoma Historic Motorsports Festival…Sorry to hear you had problems on Sunday. Hope your back in the running for the Monterey Historics in August.[:)]
   
   Best Regards,
   
   John
   AEX 521
Title: BE 646
Post by: AcecaRacer on June 06, 2012, 23:22:28
Hi John -
   
   It was indeed good to meet you as well.  Nice to find another ACECA owner here in the Bay Area.  I think that takes the count to 6 or 7!
   
   I have been in touch with Nigel and will advise.  The price seems to be a bit dear, but may be worth it in the long run.
   
   Stay tuned...
   
   See you at Monterey!
   
   Rob
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on June 15, 2012, 07:59:34
The horns still work after so many years.
   
   The body is powder coated the fantail is bead blasted and clear coated:
   
   I always dreamed of new stageless jacks. Now, I had the time to build a new set:
   
   And yes, I made some small progress on the differential brackets. I hope I can do more on that this weekend:
   
Title: BE 646
Post by: Gus Meyjes on June 15, 2012, 12:38:52
Original wind tone horns. They do sound quite different from the ones you can buy now.
   
   Gus
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on June 16, 2012, 18:07:47
I could use the new stageless jacks for adjusting the differential.
   
   To simulate the drive shafts I used two PE bolts.
   
   So, I could fix the differential bracket with some weld points.
   
   Now, a professional welder can work on them.
Title: BE 646
Post by: Gus Meyjes on June 16, 2012, 19:13:10
You do great work, Peter, Can't wait to see it in real life!
   
   Gus
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on June 17, 2012, 20:25:45
What you couldn't see on the last pictures was that the alignment was not perfect. I had to stroke the bolts through the holes. The reason was that the brackets were 1 mm too close to each other.
   
   This morning I woke up with the thought that both the differential case and the mounting brackets will be painted which will make the situation even more worse. So, everything back to the yesterday starting point:
   
   I narrow the brackets by 1 mm. Now the alignment is perfect. You can see in the videos (click the pictures):
   
   (http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r138/dkp_cobra/BE%20646/th_IMGP5864.jpg) (http://"http://s143.photobucket.com/albums/r138/dkp_cobra/BE%20646/?action=view¤t=IMGP5864.mp4")
   
   (http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r138/dkp_cobra/BE%20646/th_IMGP5863.jpg) (http://"http://s143.photobucket.com/albums/r138/dkp_cobra/BE%20646/?action=view¤t=IMGP5863.mp4")
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on June 23, 2012, 20:00:11
The lower differential brackets are welded.
   
   Time to check how the engine and transmission will fit into the car.
   
   I have definitely a problem with the Moris Minior rack and pinion steering.
   
   The old engine mounts must be removed.
   
   Since the footbox was already modified due to the Daimler Dart engine it fits on the right side.
   
   On the left side the clutch needs a little bit more space
   
   and the gear shifter mechanism is a problem.
   
   But I have a lot of room up to the bonnet:
   
   Also the original hand brake lever will not contact the gear lever:
   
   Now, I am tired and go to sleep. It's a hard work when you do it alone [xx(]
Title: BE 646
Post by: French Frie on June 24, 2012, 15:11:12
What a fantastic job, Peter ! It's a shame you don't have any friend [;)] ...
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on July 01, 2012, 11:55:52
Quote
Originally posted by French Frie
   
What a fantastic job, Peter ! It's a shame you don't have any friend [;)] ...
   

   Yes, it's a shame but so I can lose time for useless things like the washer wheel box (again) [:)]. The original plates are quite rusty:
   
   The possibilities are:
       
   So far, I always used a laser cutter. You always see the starting point of the laser, there is some kind of edge. Now, I have access to a flow waterjet.
   
   I have to say I am disappointed. I do not have the edge at the starting point but the complete border is rough and the waterjet cuts funnel formed.
   
   You can see the difference here:
   
   The lower washer(30 x 3 mm) was cut by a laser and stands on its small side, the same washer cut by the waterjet (above) must be leaned against something since the borders are not orthogonal to the surface.
   
   Nevertheless, for the wheel box plates it doesn't matter:
   
   These cars weren't build for eternity. The construction of the pedal box is ideal to catch water and dirt (left side: dirt of 50 years).
   
   No surprise that you have cracks there (right side):
   
   I removed the mounting brackets for the previous transmission since I don't need it and it wasn't original:
   
   And I had time for the weekly saturday afternoon madness: putting the engine and transmission into car in order to find the right position. If I modify the footboxes a little bit, I can shift the engine     approximately 5 cm backwards. So, I don't have to remove the original mounting brackets of the engine. Well, I don't know whether they are original. I read anywhere that the chassis number should be stamped into these but I can't find any number.
   
   Anyway, I will have more clearance between engine and steering rack:
   
   Some modifications are necessary here ...
   
   
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on July 28, 2012, 13:29:47
I am working on new mounting brackets for the engine:
   
   They should be clamped around the main tubes. A cross brace should prvent the brackets from rotating around the tubes:
   
   I also removed the steering rack. I guess it is a modified Morris Minor:
   
   Since this steering rack is worn out and the car should be converted from RHS to LHS I contacted Ben Yates for his conversion kit. In parallel I am also thinking about a MGB steering rack. The advantage of Ben's kit is that it can still be used behind the front axle. The MGB must be installed in front of the fron axle. Has anybody experiences with a MGB steering rack?
Title: BE 646
Post by: Robin A Woolmer on July 28, 2012, 14:30:09
I am looking seriously at a Morgan Rack which has the track rods driven from the centre of the rack which replicates the original track rod locations, this should minimise any adverse effect of Bump Steer, the rack can be modified to fit in the rear of the axle by reversing the drive pinion in the rack!
   If you want LHD then you might consider an IMP rack!
   
   Robin
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on July 28, 2012, 16:36:06
Robin,
   
   I read and heard that the original setup had a lot of room for optimisation so I am not quite sure whether it is the best way to replicate the original steering geometry.
   
   What I learned from Rinsey Mills book was that the original steering box was not the best AC could do but they had a lot of these in their shelves and they stopped using these when all were used and used the modified MGB solution from that point. Isn't that correct?
   
   Peter
Title: BE 646
Post by: Robin A Woolmer on July 28, 2012, 17:24:09
Peter
   I do not have any information on the MG solution but do as you say understand that AC used up some inexpensive stock of steering boxes, as you know the original Ace Chassis had a rack & pinion as you have, but one issue is the track rods pivot position as that it can effect the steering, if the track rods are longer (almost the half width of the track) it can minimise this!
   So i am planning to fit the Morgan rack which affords long track rods.
   Robin
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on July 29, 2012, 10:49:35
Robin,
   
   please, report about your progress and experiences.
   
   Peter
Title: BE 646
Post by: Robin A Woolmer on July 29, 2012, 11:32:07
Peter
   It is a little early as i have spent a great deal of time investigating what racks are suitable & then obtaining samples also modifying the Morgan rack which is quite simple to do, when i have my Ace Replica on its wheels i will do a trial fit & make up the track rods etc
   I am no good putting pictures on this site but if you want some pictures of the Morgan Rack i wll send it to you, it is quite long but does fit within the engine compartment, the better one would have been the Imp type which is shorter & very neat, this latter one would probably suit LHD cars though, this issue is the rack direction as it was designed to fit originally in front of the axle! There are several other racks which will do the job such as Lancia Beta but these are excessively long but very nice!
   The main issue is fitting it high enough to ally for the suspension vertical travel for the track rods to clear the main tubes etc!
   When it is done i will take pictures of the installation.
   
   Robin
Title: BE 646
Post by: lew on August 02, 2012, 17:41:42
HI Guys,
   What could perhaps be of interest to those considering going the "rack" route with centrally mounted track rods(long ones!) is the following.
   In the '60s a man by the name of Arthur Mallock designed the U2 clubmans cars with a cross over swing axle front suspension.
   
   In an attempt to reduce bump steer he first used the LH Imp rack but later modified Morris Minor one. It is a simple matter om machining a slot in the central portion of the rack housing exposing the rear of the rack. This is the suitably tapped 1/2'unf and the ends of the track rods mount to this. One can easily seal it by modifying a universal concertina rack boot and fitting.
    I know it's easy 'cause I made one for my Mallock race car about 40 years ago and still use it!
Title: BE 646
Post by: Robin A Woolmer on August 02, 2012, 18:03:08
Lew
   That's very interesting the Imp rack is an ideal size but goes the wrong way for the Ace, if one can get a LHD one then turn it over it would do the job, but your idea is great & would not cost too much to do.
   How is your Diff?
   
   Robin
Title: BE 646
Post by: lew on August 03, 2012, 10:12:35
Hi Robin,
   Diff sorted,had to use a combo of new cupped thrusts and new flat wheel thrusts to get is right(flatted for size).
   Thanks for all your help
   Lew
Title: BE 646
Post by: BEX308 on August 05, 2012, 18:08:17
Peter,
   If you can open an AutoCAD file I can send you a drawing of the suspension dimensions I took off of 308 and the resulting instantaneous centers for various suspension positions. The analysis returns results for rack length very near what Ben Yates provides and I wound up using one of his kits on 308. The original long track rods on a worm and sector Ace are not even close to eliminating bump steer which is, of course, the position Shelby American came to when they convinced AC to change over to R&P. Tojeiro had it about right if you eyeball his original chassis design with the short rack.
   If you think of the Ace front suspension as an equal length parallel arm design you are not far off; which means the rack length has to be just about the dimension between the lower wishbone pivots and the rack height needs to keep the tie rod parallel with the lower arm to effectively minimize steering input on suspension deflection.
   Pete
   
   P.S.: As an ignorant young man I tried a rack from an MG Midget in the early 70's and it was too long; but at least the car didn't wander all over the road!
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on August 30, 2012, 14:39:07
Thank you for all the input. I went on vacation for a quite long time but now I'm back in this theme.
   
   After reading Ben Yates comments about his conversion kit I think that the Morgan rack will not be a good solution because of the quite long steering arms. The original steering box had already too long arms.
   
   Pete, I can read Autocad files. It would be nice if you can send them to me.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on September 09, 2012, 13:21:20
I have no time to work on my car but other people have. The old seats:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/aivmcmoj7/IMGP6242.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   and the new seats:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/8r2nhppqr/001.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/yzds73hk3/002.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/opbd7urof/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on September 17, 2012, 18:25:36
The car had a r&p conversion and a new bracket for the rack was welded to the front cross beam:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/caol7gv0j/IMGP6249.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   I decided to go with Ben Yates conversion kit so I removed this bracket:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/5wzi485k3/IMGP6251.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   The original steering arms are extended:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/na9sj38kz/IMGP6252.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   One can see the weld seam quite clear:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/aivmckjdf/IMGP6255.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: Robin A Woolmer on September 17, 2012, 19:31:49
I would suggest you have the material checked as the Iron welding may be questionable, new caliper mounts are available from Gerry Hawkridge.
Title: BE 646
Post by: minimans on September 19, 2012, 06:15:17
Hi I just wanted to say thank you for the wiring diagrams you posted for the wiper motor wiring, i used then today to sort out the wiring on bex740 I'm rebuilding it for a client up here at Infineon Raceway in Sonoma! Thanks again...........Paul....
Title: BE 646
Post by: AC Bill on September 22, 2012, 16:26:36
Is there any way to determine the strength of the main frame tubes, if rusting on the inside was prevalent? Perhaps some sort of density measurement tool..or scanner perhaps?
   
   Certainly a tremendous amount of work involved, and "good at you", for having the determination to do it!
Title: BE 646
Post by: ACOCArch on September 23, 2012, 02:50:28
Quote
Originally posted by AC Bill
   
Is there any way to determine the strength of the main frame tubes, if rusting on the inside was prevalent? Perhaps some sort of density measurement tool..or scanner perhaps?
Quote

   
   There are a number of Non-Destructive Examination techniques which could be employed. A starting point would be a good visual inspection, using a remote camera for the internal surfaces, to look for obvious high-corrosion areas and pitting.
   A more rigorous examination would require ultra-sonics or similar for a general thickness survey of the main tubes. This could probably be be done from the external surfaces. Dye penetrant examination of welds would identify any surface-breaking cracks, and radiography around the important welds such as the suspension pivot points would give a volumetric survey of thickness and identify any non-surface breaking defects or otherwise poor welding.
   
   This would all need to be preceeded with thorough clean up including the removal of all paint and corrosion.
   
   An operation for the professional NDE specialist with good equipment calibrated on the correct material/configuration, and certificated training.
   
   Probably quite costly but, as the basis for an expensive restoration and with longevity and safety in mind, it would be worth it!
Title: BE 646
Post by: ACOCArch on September 23, 2012, 03:12:36
quote:
Originally posted by Robin A Woolmer
   
Peter
   I have spent a great deal of time investigating what racks are suitable

   One very important safety factor is to ensure that the articulation of track rods in the end of the rack, and ball joints at the track-rod ends, do not reach their full limit at the extremes of suspension and steering movement. If they do, stresses go through the roof and the result can be catastrophic steering or suspension failure.
   
   Although I have not seen AC Cars' design sheets for the Cobra R&P set-up, on the 3000ME there was much design work on this aspect. As a result, the 3000ME steering racks (Triumph 2000 pattern) are modified by AC, who designed, manufactured and fitted stops to limit the steering rack travel thereby preventing this problem and also wheels/tyres fouling bodywork.
Title: BE 646
Post by: ACOCArch on September 23, 2012, 04:45:09
quote:
Originally posted by BEX308
   ... Shelby American came to when they convinced AC to change over to R&P.

   With respect, I would be very interested to see any evidence that Shelby American had to persuade AC Cars to fit R&P steering. It is more likely, in my view, that the changes came as a result of professional engineering discussions and an agreed programme of progressive improvement.
   
   Well before the Cobra, AC Cars had significant experience of the use of R&P, even as early as their first 4-wheeled car in 1911! The general motor industry understanding of the workings of independent front suspension and different steering systems had moved on leaps and bounds since the days of the Ace design in the early 1950s, and the evidence points to AC being very well aware of any limitations in the cam and peg steering design and, perhaps more importantly, the transverse leaf suspension design, when work started on the Cobra.
   
   There are a number of factors which lead to this point of view.  In the 8-year period between Ace and early Cobra designs, AC had completed at least two new "clean sheet" road car designs. Both designs had R&P steering and much more sophisticated suspension than the Ace/Cobra. The 1959 AC Greyhound was in production well before the start of Cobra production, and the early 1960's MA200 was almost certainly designed and probably built some time before the Cobra R&P update. In the case of MA 200, the steering design was completely different, at that time an innovative solution to the inherent problems of R&P.
   
   The earliest Cobra was of course a rapidly introduced update of the much earlier mid 1950s Ace design, which was quite possibly due to be superceded when Carroll Shelby knocked on Thames Ditton's door. But, Shelby and Ford were in a hurry and changes to the old Ace design was probably the best solution for a number of reasons. For the earliest Cobras, in order to get series production underway quickly it is reasonable to assume that the minimum changes necessary were introduced, and perforce concentrated in areas other than the steering type.
   
   As can be seen from the posts on page 2 of the 'Cobra (Thames Ditton) Forum mk1 cox and cob', the later conversion of the Cobra to R&P required AC Cars to undertake a major re-design of the front suspension, front uprights, steering and brakes, and other changes to the spring tower and main frame. For series production this required modified jigs and tools, possibly including forging tools, and testing. This was a considerable amount of engineering work with significant production lead times. The changes were so extensive they formed the basis for what is euphemistically, but incorrectly, termed the 'MKII Cobra'.
   
   Chronologically, this all followed the AC Greyhound and probably the AC MA 200 design. No doubt, the Cobra re-design benefitted accordingly. Even then, the fundamental change to a more sophisticated suspension design, more akin to the Greyhound and MA 200, was not introduced to the Cobra line until AC's next major design change, the 1964 MKII coil-spring chassis used for the Cobra 427, the AC 289 Sports and, with a 6" longer wheelbase, the AC 428.
   
   One final question. Is R&P so superior? Currently there are plenty of manufacturers out there who choose not to specify that system.
Title: BE 646
Post by: B.P.Bird on September 23, 2012, 23:12:11
A Tale of Stupidity: Since finishing a rebuild of 2033 I have been subject to some criticism from Ashley, number one son, to the effect that the steering and road behaviour was execrable. Whilst being entirely unreceptive to criticism I do have to admit that he was right, although I resisted any revision for 19,000 miles. Veiled hints were dropped that a conversion of the cam and peg steering to rack and pinion was essential. When I finally considered the matter properly, a month ago, I had to admit that the Cobra was a poor comparison with my dear old Aceca Bristol which followed my steering commands around both roads and tracks and never led me astray. By comparison 33 tried to leave the road and head for the nearest field every inch of the way.
   There had, I reasoned, to be an explanation and, as there was no free play anywhere in suspension or steering and the Bishop cam and peg steering box was smooth, precise and fitted with the competition brace the only possibility was an incorrect caster angle. As this is not adjustable and has to remain as Thames Ditton machined it there remained only one possibility - some pratt (me) had reversed the front uprights port to starboard. Removing a wheel I had a look: Sure enough there it was: The caster angle was negative (steering swivel inclined aft) instead of positive (inclined forward.)
   So I swopped the uprights side to side, making no other changes and, as you would expect, the car was transformed.
   I wonder how many Ace/Aceca/Cobra with cam and peg steering are out there with the front uprights reversed side to side? Or with an incorrect upright substituted for some reason - two of one side or the other on one car. Well one is never too old to learn and in my experience there is nothing wrong with the cam and peg steering system and conversions to rack and pinion may be a completely unwise departure from original specification. If the cam and peg is not working properly then there is a reason. Look for it.
   Why then is Alan Turner's rack and pinion chassis better ? Well it is not just a rack and pinion addition. He revised the whole thing: Wishbones, wishbone mounts, uprights and steering swivels, steering column and spring. Nothing is the same.
   One of the great virtues of the cam and peg system is the quick steering - 1 3/4 turns lock to lock.Even Alan Turners proper rack and pinion system had to sacrifice that.
Title: BE 646
Post by: ACOCArch on September 24, 2012, 01:56:14
quote:
Originally posted by B.P.Bird
   
A Tale of Stupidity:

   
   Great lesson Barry. Reminds me of one new car my father had, not an AC, which was delivered with a disc brake on one front wheel and a drum brake on the other!!
   
   I suspect that the principal consideration for many main stream manufacturers is a cost advantage offered by the simpler R&P system. I ran Vauxhall Carltons and Omegas for about 20 years. These had a form of worm and peg  with  a drop arm each side linked by a track rod across the car.  The car ran true, the feedback was great, and I was always confident I knew what was going on under the front wheels.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on September 25, 2012, 09:55:20
Quote
Originally posted by Robin A Woolmer
   
I would suggest you have the material checked as the Iron welding may be questionable, new caliper mounts are available from Gerry Hawkridge.
   
   
   Robin, thank you for making me these kind of headache [xx(]. But seriously, it is not a nice thought that your steering arms broke during driving.
   
   I removed the extentions. You can see that the fusion penetration is about 3 mm.
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/gvarmkmhf/IMGP6289.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Ok, time to make a nice picture. Say "fromage":
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/x6aviw6oz/IMGP6295.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Well, this picture is not well-focused but the x-ray picture shows clearly that the steering arms are in a perfect condition. No cappilary cracks, no inclusions.
   
   Unfortunately, the x-ray apparatus is not big enough for the frame. I will start there with a visual inspection.
   
   The restauration will take some years. So for the meantime I bought a second Aceca which is already finished:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/4tfdsfsoj/IMGP6297.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on October 19, 2012, 18:35:36
In the meantime Ben Yates r&p conversion kit arrived. When Ben promises you a complete kit it is really a "complete" kit. See what you get for your money:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/43wlg12er/IMGP6309.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/809xc0ne7/)
   
   Drilling four holes to mount the rack is an easy and fast job, but it takes some time to find the correct position:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/kewpccmmb/IMGP6312.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   But at the end it looks good:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/gvarmjzc3/IMGP6316.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Well, currently it has a slight toe-out [:I]
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/43wlg1hub/IMGP6319.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on December 28, 2012, 12:12:01
Time for some updates. In the meantime a made a new rubber for the upper steering column:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/jcmitebeb/IMGP6320.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/fg96xeqen/)
   
   and the engine mounts are finished:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/b74gv8uv7/IMGP6333.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/skera5nmb/IMGP6346.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   so time to put the engine into the car and check whether the steering rack and column will find a way around the engine. Instead of the UJ shaft Ben supported I plan to use and old Triumph TR4 shaft:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/4gnzltn4z/IMGP6396.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/8pspnzqe7/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/4gnzluppv/IMGP6397.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   It seems that the drive shaft I got together with the engine and gear box from the a Kirkham 289 cobra will also fit with my setup:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/x6aviheab/IMGP6403.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/x6avigyur/IMGP6402.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   The footbox must be modified for the clutch:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/n8zupeyyr/IMGP6407.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   The modified drive flange of the Jag differential are finished.
   
(https://s19.postimg.org/kro3i69xf/IMGP6410.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Now, they fit into the rear cage.
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/k25b5u48z/IMGP6413.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/xj29opekf/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/ruvyxrzxf/IMGP6411.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Between the differential case and its mounting brackets is a little space:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/w40ozz5rn/IMGP6418.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   and this is at least what is missing on top of the case to the frame:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/bjvv1hiar/IMGP6417.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   I am afraid I have to do these again [xx(]
Title: BE 646
Post by: Gus Meyjes on December 28, 2012, 17:32:28
Peter
   
   For whatever it's worth: I have the Yates conversion on my Aceca and I love it. It works fantastic.
   
   Gus
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on February 10, 2013, 11:34:11
I made new mounting brackets for the differential case. Left the old one, right the new one:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/in3qgxveb/IMGP6476_zps6e17fe7e.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   This lowered the differential be 5 mm in order to give more space above. And yes, it works:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/8d1bhq83n/IMGP6485_zpsf6ea9795.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/jcmitbqsz/IMGP6487_zpsf44f5c75.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   A drawback was that the differential case had to be modified a little bit:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/566ry4337/IMGP6477_zps9f4b06e9.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   I also made a mounting bracket for the gearbox. First, the original brackets had to be shortened because the Hurst shifter of the Top-Loader hit them in the rear gear.
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/3r579crpf/IMGP6478_zps59ac96cb.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Then new holes had to be drilled. Not so easy since there is no space for a drilling machine:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/3r579d74z/IMGP6479_zpsaa716039.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/m6po6rl9b/)
   
   Time to buy a new tool:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/g5rz9oqxf/IMGP6482_zps71004ba8.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   This was good for one and a half hole. After that it was junk. The next right-angle drive was better, good enough for the rest two and a half holes but still not the kind of tool I like to work with. Now, I am looking for some professional tool.
   
   Nevertheless, the gear box bracket is finished:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/kro3i27bn/IMGP6484_zps4bd1c60e.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Now, all these parts can be welded professionally.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on March 06, 2013, 09:53:03
The project is stucked a little bit. It started in October. I just wanted to install Ben's steering rack conversion kit. I thought this a little nice sub-project with a fast success. Well, installing the rack was really done on a friday afternoon but installing the steering column is problematic.
   
   The problem is not Ben's kit. This is great. The problem is my conversion of the car to a 289 engine, the swap from RHS to LHS and that the foot box was strongly modified by one of the previous owners.
   
   The first observation was that the lower steering rack will go through the oil filter. So I had to order a oil take-off adapter. I hoped for more space in that area due to the adapter but it is still a narrow area. It is not possible to say whether this will work without fixing the upper steering column. But the position of the upper column depends on the space the engine headers give me. So again a suspension of this fast-to-do sub-project.
   
   In the meantime I thought about construction of a new pedal box. I would like to install an adjustable brake-balance system which will make the box wider than the original box is. Whether I will have the space or not depends on the way the exhaust pipes will go, and, yes, this depends on the header. So, same suspension of this sub-project.
   
   Another sub-project was a new construction of the dash board. The lower line of the dashboard has a curve in the area of the steering column. To make this nice I have to be sure where the steering column is located. I think I mentioned a quite similar problem above.
   
   Now, I thought I found a real nice sub-project: the restauration of the original ACOC emblem.
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/hwb0bjb4z/IMGP6509_zps7ecd1edc.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   I wanted to remove the rest of the enamel, clean it and make a new enamel coating. After cleaning and polishing I has to notice that first the emblem must be chromed first.
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/ty6e5os37/IMGP6513_zpsee339d81.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/9e1k77k1v/IMGP6515_zpsb02a1df4.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/muyiq2udb/)
   
   But hey, last week my headers arrived [:)]. There is only one thing which prevents my from continuing: my sinusitis [xx(]
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on March 12, 2013, 14:11:33
Finally, I found a nice small sub-project I could do in my warm office on my desk. Together with the engine I got a Holley Street Avenger carburator with an electric choke. I asked Holley how I convert it to a mechanical choke and they recommended the Holley 45-225S conversion kit:
   
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/carburetor_components/choke_and_vacuum_secondary_components/choke_components/parts/45-225S (https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/carburetor_components/choke_and_vacuum_secondary_components/choke_components/parts/45-225S)
   
   These bits and pieces come with a description which has a little room for improvements. No pictures, no drawing, nothing: http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/199R7439rev1.pdf (http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/199R7439rev1.pdf)
   
   Furthermore, the parts I got where different from the parts the original Holley picture shows above [B)]. I have to say, these Holley guys know how to drive up there customers. I asked for some more detailed installation guide and got really fast the answer "no, sir, nothing available". In the meantime I know why, because writing a detailed description would had shown them that this conversion kit doesn't work.
   
   After asking the vendor the second step is always "google". It shows quite fast that this conversion is nothing people do quite often. But those poor guys how tried had always the same problem as I had "what should I do with these small parts"?
   
   So, to help the next guy here comes my try to figure this conversion. Now, the line for "google":
   
   <font size="4"><b>How to convert a Holley Street Avenger electric choke to a mechanical choke using the Holley 45-225S choke conversion kit?</b></font id="size4">
   
   First, the electric choke must be removed:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/8oirun95v/IMGP6569.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/ecp2ljdi7/)
   
   The choke vacuum passage must be closed (red arrow). The kit contains a small lead ball which should be driven into the hole. I think using some kind of fibre ribbon is a better solution. The fast idle lever must be removed because it will clash with the choke lever:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/bilx84677/IMGP6570.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/8oiruo40v/)
   
   Now, you can mount the choke lever stamping. The lever is turned clockwise in order to load the spring. Don't forget the hair pin you got from the electric choke. There is no new hair pin in the conversion kit.
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/n7pww1ukz/IMGP6571.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/a3kcjd2j3/)
   
   Mount the die cast fast idle cam housing assembly:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/m5fqdi41v/IMGP6572.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/91a60tbzz/)
   
   After mounting the fast idle lever coming with the conversion kit (forget step 6-8 of the installation instructions) you can see, that this will not work. There is a big gap between the fast idle lever and the drive of the choke lever:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/lsoc7d3sj/IMGP6574.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/v0gko2aun/)
   
   Bend the fast idle lever outwards approx. 5 mm:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/mi74jnz6b/IMGP6575.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/ecp2liaxb/)
   
   The installation instruction describes in step 5 how to mount the choke cable bracket. This is the result:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/w2qr6le8j/IMGP6577.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/6770necen/)
   
   You have to machine the housing and the cap of the secondary diaphragm cover. I think a better solution without machining is a flipped up mouting of the cable bracket from below:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/qekgfqk6r/IMGP6591.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/f27uxybhr/)
   
   That's it. I hope these pictures will help someone. Needless to say, that a lot of parts are left over [:D]
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/5ho8b1z0j/IMGP6578.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/unp6hw0an/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: 3.8Jaguar on March 18, 2013, 16:33:10
Your speedo drive original problem is down to the common problem of the direction of winding on the drive cable there are left hand and right hand wound cables so if incorrect cable is fitted for direction of drive they can try and unwind if there is drag in the system.
   
   The Moss box does appear to be a Jaguar unit, the AC Moss boxes were centre lever in top cover and had a different tail housing with a large two bolt hole rear mounting plate cast in.
   
   If you go with a Salisbury final drive, which is possible double check you have the right final drive ratio as there were a large number of ratios used in Jaguars, if you don't check and fit one out of an Automatic XJS for instance we will see you ant Bonneville Salt flats trying to join the 200MPH club!
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on March 19, 2013, 10:05:37
James,
   
   200 mph is my aim [:)]. The Jag differential is a 3.07 with limited slip. The gear box I will use is a top-loader with a 1:1 forth gear. All together it will not be an acceleration beast but it will be a nice cruiser.
   
   Thank you for your advice.
   
   Peter
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on March 23, 2013, 15:45:01
I installed my block hugger style headers.
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/6u5xd0h1f/IMGP6592_zps0d734f47.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/wppnw7iv3/)
   
   I had to learn that block hugger style means that the exhaust pipes go inside the frame. Since US cars has a much wider frame than the Aceca my problem is that the headers point directly to the frame:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/4plkbx7oz/IMGP6599_zps456b45c2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   The next step will be a custom made header [xx(]
   
   A little bit frustated I had a closer look at my doors. When I bought the car I opened the right door and saw a lot of rot (see pictures on page 1). I expected not the best.
   
   The right door:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/qoryz5jeb/IMGP6609_zpsaa8553a3.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   The rot is mainly in the lower part. This must be replaced. Of course the two thin wood plates around the door pocket are decayed. But it is not so bad as I expected. I thought that the complete door must be renewed.
   
   The left door is much better. The lower part is fine, only the struts to the side are not perfect:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/hgzqifwwj/IMGP6619_zpsac5e6e9e.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   The boot lid makes a even better impression. Only small things are decayed here:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/gepjzwlsz/IMGP6637_zpse9ca24ad.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on March 30, 2013, 16:49:58
While thinking about my headers it is time for some real dirty work. First, I pitched a tent inside of my garage in order to remove the color from the doors, the bonnet and the hatch door.
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/pz96mndo3/IMGP6647_zps320b3982.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   After the work the view wasn't so good.
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/d7v0g4w6b/IMGP6651_zps1bb784e3.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   The result:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/jlk3jeghv/IMGP6653_zps8a76da32.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/jybhpkyrj/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/pz96monyr/IMGP6652_zps9be2672f.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/4cu65npe7/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/jybhpn3xf/IMGP6664_zps8366fcb1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/msen31o37/IMGP6663_zps1fc93108.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   After stripping the doors they were 1750g lighter.
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/mfn8wvdj7/IMGP6665_zpsf101c96a.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   The right door (the one with the dilapidated wood) has also an open edge at the backside.
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/rr25hkcgj/IMGP6666_zps42161517.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/l0lo84pan/)
   
   The doors will be a lot of work. I look forward to strip the rest of the car. I will start when I will be able to move again [B)]
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on May 07, 2013, 16:11:39
only little progress: overhauling of the heater vents
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/4cu65jmsj/IMGP5587_zps61892782.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/76xbiyeo3/IMGP6743_zps9b793865.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: Gus Meyjes on May 08, 2013, 03:15:38
Peter,
   
   The headers arrived in Holland. A bit of bad info: My mother got taxed for them... 85 Euro... [:(!][:(!][:(!]
   
   Gus
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on May 09, 2013, 13:09:21
quote:
Originally posted by Gus Meyjes
   
Peter,
   
   The headers arrived in Holland. A bit of bad info: My mother got taxed for them... 85 Euro... [:(!][:(!][:(!]
   
   Gus
   

   
   Gus,
   
   I'll install an extra bell for that at your bicycle [:I]
   
   Peter
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on May 09, 2013, 13:10:53
New hand-made stainless steel brackets for the clutch and brake fluid reservoirs:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/rr25herub/IMGP6751_zpsed20f346.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on May 15, 2013, 11:54:07
I got new headers from Gus. Patriot headers for AC Cobra 289 so they should fit.
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/oixo4wnqb/IMGP6757_zpscde839b1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   This looks promising:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/qni15zx2r/IMGP6758_zps834ea02a.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   But first the pedal box and the remain of the crossbrace must be removed:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/6hej6j8yr/IMGP6762_zps1c065ef2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Currently, I have contact of the right header with the frame
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/x2h2233mb/IMGP6768_zps9b7953ee.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   but at least 2 cm space on the left side
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/rr25hd9tv/IMGP6769_zps9684d979.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   I am sure that with modified engine mounts it will work.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on May 24, 2013, 15:36:08
The old bumper bar end plugs are so rusty that they cannot be overhauled. I bought new stainless steel end caps, of course not with the correct size. It's hard to get these inch stuff here in germany. But after some work at the lathe they fit:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/ch2aaotwj/IMGP6781_zps387e7737.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   The bumper bar pipes wait for polishing:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/dw3uzfxkj/IMGP6782_zpsff29ef37.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/djcgt7xab/IMGP6783_zps9174441e.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   I modified one of the engine mounts:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/k9sy2ns5v/IMGP6785_zpse1e16422.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   The engine can now be placed in the middle of the centerline of the car. The header has now place on both sides of the main frame:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/wofq30m8z/IMGP6788_zps0596e1cb.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/yg8oxx5lr/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/3m1g07fer/IMGP6789_zpsc9835197.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/7ierw70e7/)
   
   But the header still contacts the engine mounts:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/hsh6vever/IMGP6786_zpsb35821d5.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/3m1g06s9f/IMGP6787_zpsf05488e7.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/4bk8cjssv/)
   
   I will build new smaller mounts and the problem should be solved.
   
   And now something completey new: a picture quiz. What will this be at the end?
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/xdyifczn7/IMGP6784_zps2de75647.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on June 04, 2013, 12:57:45
I think I found a position for the upper and lower steering shafts:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/8w6ercmr7/IMGP6828_zps1a5e6278.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/s19o13tpf/IMGP6825_zps8986e438.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/se127abz3/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on June 18, 2013, 16:05:13
Fixing the upper steering column position I can start building a new dashboard.
   
   The old is nearly dilapidated and a swap from right to left hand is necessary. The old dashboard:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/sqsgdfjyb/IMGP6835_zpsa2f42498.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/m0bz3z9n7/IMGP6834_zps55ee7a78.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   The new dashboard in the heavy duty version:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/6239dvaab/IMGP6837_zps3395ff65.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/y27cy4yb7/IMGP6840_zps027ab1f2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   The modification is a shift of the steering column position of 20 mm to the side:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/bdi5yl42r/IMGP6838_zps8fd6967c.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   One can see that the bend of the upper part is stronger at the sides:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/yrq5ahr4z/IMGP6839_zps42ea794e.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/anzdm78nz/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on June 25, 2013, 14:43:55
First try of a lightweight version of the dashboard:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/4n1op1eb7/IMGP6841_zpsb0f83092.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Time for alluminium:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/tgb8pp51f/IMGP6843_zps443ad6fb.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/o4wc50dtv/IMGP6866_zpsb26cc0fa.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Beating out:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/vkvlqsm3n/IMGP6867_zps3f8a3395.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/ns4xyu39v/IMGP6868_zpsa8ef1473.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/lnkkxr1n3/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/ohnqb68yb/IMGP6870_zpsafc3beb0.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/xpfyrvvg3/IMGP6871_zps10c25aef.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Now, it's time for a professional panel maker to sharpen the lower part and to weld all together.
Title: BE 646
Post by: Gus Meyjes on June 27, 2013, 02:33:22
Peter, You're an artist! What a fabulous thread of your restoration!
   
   Keep it coming!
   
   Gus
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on June 28, 2013, 14:52:21
The glove box (must be welded)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/c30yascab/IMGP6872_zpsd1bde066.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/86nmesz0j/IMGP6873_zpsc05bbe12.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   and the last upper mounting bracket of the differential:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/dutx5pqib/IMGP6874_zpsd4619136.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/3kri6gl77/IMGP6875_zps73718bf2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   (and a view from below)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/hr791p3s3/IMGP6876_zpsd50abf05.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: Gus Meyjes on July 04, 2013, 14:59:48
Peter, you've come a long way in 2 years! What a job! I was just looking at the fit of your headers. If you decide to use a heat wrapping, consider some additional space. This stuff works great in keeping the engine bay cooler, but is adds thickness to the pipe diameter.
   
   Gus
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on August 14, 2013, 07:44:31
Finally, the upper differential mounting bracket is finished:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/h1ogp9qcz/IMGP7056_zps337d2337.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   It started with this idea:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/wzx6fdaab/IMGP7053_zpsf84054fb.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Welding was not so easy. During welding the complete bracket has to been fixed to keep the surface planar:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/9lp73fcxf/IMGP7049_zps0982f703.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/ekcphzjb7/IMGP7048_zps33680b42.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Other building lot: I don't now why there is a big slice missing in the main instrument bracket
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/3xiwcj0v7/IMGP6946_zpsc2ac0623.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   I think it is zinc diecasting and my welder told that I should try fluid metal. This is a kind of two-component adhesive containing metall dust. When it is hardened you could machine it like normal metal.
   
   First a small piece of aluminium
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/sqsgd7eqr/IMGP6948_zps9f398952.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   closing the hole
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/xpfyrr5oz/IMGP6947_zps8c7912d3.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Two small aluminium plates above and below give more strength
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/ex43o56pv/IMGP7045_zps1b33fb8d.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/jvrm2qneb/IMGP6950_zpsbf48f981.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   I could grind it like the normal metal and even after sand blasting everything was fine
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/j68tqck9v/IMGP7055_zps450773a6.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/5pbv7gmsz/IMGP7054_zps100123af.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Should be strong enough to be covered by leather ...
Title: BE 646
Post by: nikbj68 on August 14, 2013, 11:11:22
quote:
Originally posted by dkp_cobra I don't now why that there is a big slice missing in the main instrument bracket

   Would that be were the trip counter reset comes down? I hope you don`t have to drill it out after such a nice repair! [:(]
Title: BE 646
Post by: B.P.Bird on August 14, 2013, 11:49:02
And the clock reset I seem to remember ?
Title: BE 646
Post by: Klassik Metall on August 14, 2013, 11:49:20
The cutout is for the clock and trip meter resets. However, from your earlier postings it looks like your speedo and tacho are from a series 1  Jaguar E type so I guess the cutout is now redundant.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on August 14, 2013, 13:39:10
Thank you all for your input. Interesting, that this hole was really intended.
   
   Well, I have no original instruments and my plan is to use a new Smith set. The mechanical speedometer has a reset but this need a small hole to mount it. So I have to drill a small hole anyway.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on August 15, 2013, 15:33:42
A new handbrake lever (stainless steel, below; above, the original chromed version):
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/9ygl9l81v/IMGP7063_zpsdc393918.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: nikbj68 on August 15, 2013, 16:10:21
quote:
Originally posted by dkp_cobra: And now something completey new: a picture quiz. What will this be at the end?
   
   (http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r138/dkp_cobra/BE%20646/IMGP6784_zps2de75647.jpg)

   
   Possibly a handbrake, made of Stainless steel? [:o)]
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on August 16, 2013, 07:33:02
This was a bittle bit too easy now, wasn't it [:)]
Title: BE 646
Post by: nikbj68 on August 16, 2013, 12:35:29
Maybe! [;)] I like the slight redesign of the plate, it looks like the angle onto the shaft will make it a lot stronger than the original.
   Thanks again for your excellent updates!
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on August 16, 2013, 13:36:21
quote:
Originally posted by nikbj68
   ... it looks like the angle onto the shaft will make it a lot stronger than the original...
   

   
   I hope so. The original shaft seems to have a light bend going into the cross pipe. Also the hole catching the brake cable is positioned more to the rear. So I can have a longer way to pull the hand brake if I want.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on August 16, 2013, 15:08:07
Some month ago I had a couple of parts for re-chroming. Some parts were real hard stuff for chroming because the zinc diecasting had strong corrosion:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/q9gp5vhyr/IMGP6754_zpse346b3fc.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Today, some of the parts came back:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/mpurg27j7/IMGP7068_zps147fdc89.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   They look wonderful. And see in the middle, yes, the real McCoy. The last days I was thinking about what will arrive first, the re-chromed version or the new one. But my new gas filler cap seems to be still on its way [:I]
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on August 17, 2013, 14:44:06
Ironic, one day after all my re-chromed parts arrived the new fuel filler cap came. It looks wonderful. Thank you Keith and everybody who was involved.
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/j68tq77df/IMGP7069_zps8f74484c.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Before I disassemble something I make a lot of pictures. Normally, I do not need them but I was so happy to have them for the assembling of the internal light. So many nappy parts.
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/y27cxsy7n/IMGP7071_zpse43cc767.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   And it works.
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/5ckh15mhv/IMGP7073_zps6cf8fbdd.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on August 22, 2013, 15:56:58
I started work on the footbox. Since I will convert the car from RHS to LHS the old hole of the glove box must be closed:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/fxzqzxyg3/IMGP7116_zpsdb6fb24d.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/qktk5deb7/IMGP7117_zpscee07e00.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Done:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/u4fhv6oqr/IMGP7121_zpse4ae87fa.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   The footbox was already strongly modified:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/f8gynmfwz/IMGP7124_zps2fef43a3.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Converting a big hole into a very big hole:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/rzv4u4a9f/IMGP7125_zps64f4bd78.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Time to close it:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/ot0lahxj7/IMGP7126_zps07a3d5a4.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Done:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/racchquab/IMGP7132_zpse4228605.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/k74h24wkj/IMGP7133_zpse0c47380.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on August 29, 2013, 15:55:11
Next day I had a closer look at the result and I have to say that I was totally unsatisfied with my work. The wall was skew-whiff.
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/vw8gq0fsj/IMGP7134_zpsb2c514f0.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   I decided to do it again. This time I cut a really big hole
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/ndz0logzn/IMGP7135_zps64f36889.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   and laminate in three steps. I think the result is much better:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/c1mf3wg0j/IMGP7159_zpsc4eb9abd.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/uh6w1au4v/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/5b5xuh0kj/IMGP7158_zps34a31473.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Btw. how many holes can be drilled into a footbox [:0]
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on September 03, 2013, 13:48:29
The left side is finished. Enough space for the spark plug socket.
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/wlr92clgz/IMGP7161_zpsa6f492c6.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/ndz0lneen/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/cedta1vpf/IMGP7241_zps08cf8e38.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/scmj06pxb/)
   
   But I am not sure whether there is enough space in the box for the throttle pedal. I think I have to install the driver seat to find this out.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on September 16, 2013, 16:51:50
As I wrote I have to check whether the space on the left side in the footbox is big enough. Of course, it is not:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/u4fhuyjj7/IMGP7265_zps12a86ab5.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   So I have to modify the box again. But I spend the whole weekend sitting in the car dreaming of what will be some day ...
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/tewpilb9v/IMGP7263_zpsba785a04.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/85937qn9f/IMGP7262_zpsca3da179.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on September 24, 2013, 15:46:47
I got my bonnet back. It was welded and now, I have quite nice louvres.
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/mbou2u8df/IMGP7289_zps84cc5c88.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   In the past the skin of the bonnet must have been removed. The old rivets were still in the tube and made a noise like a rainstick/rainmaker. I drilled a 8 mm hole into the tube and got this:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/tewpigt8j/IMGP7292_zps8fc9f21a.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Then I tried to close the hole.
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/nqqerlrgz/IMGP7290_zpsb53addde.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Fired by the success to close the hole and not to have widened it I thought it is time to modify the right exhaust header. First, I tried it with an old tube.
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/t25bcay43/IMGP7298_zps5ffc8ac4.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   So, I made some cuts into the exhaust headers
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/60oq6k66b/IMGP7293_zps396da6fb.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   bent it with an old jack
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/fl8ctesxf/IMGP7294_zpsb5a6b82e.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   and welded it together
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/vjh2jkaar/IMGP7296_zps0fdb0db0.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   The quality of my weldseams depends heavily whether I find a comfortable seat position wrt. the object of welding. Nevertheless, after sanding everything was fine (and closed!!!).
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/4ln5hus8j/IMGP7301_zps0d4a849d.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/is2wd2vdv/IMGP7300_zps334be9dc.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/7fqavamov/)
   
   And it gave the the desired space:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/xba1eglxv/IMGP7295_zpsa8705558.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on October 13, 2013, 15:57:43
My dash board came back from welding. You can see the offset of the steering position wrt. the original position:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/8i0hdp0bn/IMGP7408_zps349f5725.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Cutting the outer curve was not so easy as it seems but it fits now:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/6q7iitbtv/IMGP7410_zps32b1d118.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/rn3qnh9un/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/a9tg8lreb/IMGP7411_zps5fe63b0b.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   The position of the steering column works fine now:

(https://s19.postimg.cc/dgnzs96pf/IMGP7412_zps9d6c6b2d.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/o3hsxoeun/)
   
   Time to cut the hole for the big instruments into the dash board:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/72ywozeo3/IMGP7413_zpsee8661cc.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Is it just me or is there a certain similarity to a well known sign:
   
   (https://imgc.allpostersimages.com/img/print/poster/batman-logo_a-G-8646921-0.jpg)
   
   Back to topic:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/eiy6asa37/IMGP7416_zpsebcbdc51.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on October 17, 2013, 18:19:54
To cut the hole for the glovebox first the right position must be found:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/72ywowen7/IMGP7417_zpsa3f823db.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/p5rzg4i7n/IMGP7418_zpsf0d152fb.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/rzv4tkkdr/)
   
   Then, the hole can be cut into the footbox
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/c1mf3fxvn/IMGP7420_zpsd09e1b4e.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   and later into the dash board
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/p5rzg55cz/IMGP7421_zpsa2bec02e.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/dgnzs66oj/IMGP7426_zps96a29689.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Seems so easy but this work took six (6 !!!) hours today.
Title: BE 646
Post by: Migge on October 17, 2013, 19:03:52
So you got the off? On a Thursday?
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on October 17, 2013, 19:30:30
   
Quote
So you got the off? On a Thursday?
   
   You need the right job  ;)
Title: BE 646
Post by: AEX542 on October 18, 2013, 00:50:09
That dash is coming along great.  Thanks for all the pics and the write up, it has been a tremendous help during my build.
Title: BE 646
Post by: nikbj68 on October 18, 2013, 10:32:15
HOLY INSTRUMENT CLUSTERS! It`s "Dashman"! The work you are doing is right on so many levels! [:)]
   Did you manage to do anything about the step in the side of the footwell?
Title: BE 646
Post by: French Frie on October 19, 2013, 15:16:23
Amazing, as usual, Peter !
   
   Ps: did you get a discount for the batch of level bars [;)] ?
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on October 19, 2013, 17:04:00

Quote
Amazing, as usual, Peter !
   
   Ps: did you get a discount for the batch of level bars [;)] ?
   
   The level bars were in a package of three offered at a supermarket discounter for food  ;) Not professional but ok for this job.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on October 24, 2013, 15:40:17
Quote
HOLY INSTRUMENT CLUSTERS! It`s "Dashman"! The work you are doing is right on so many levels! [:)]
   Did you manage to do anything about the step in the side of the footwell?
   
   Nik,
   
   yes, I think I managed it. As usual, first converting a small hole into a big one
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/dfe1za7kz/IMGP7427_zps5b07ff89.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/48vrbg4r7/IMGP7428_zps3be10034.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Now, it's like the other side
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/6oxkpvn03/IMGP7445_zps634666b4.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/rltsuj5lf/IMGP7438_zpsfe99fd9d.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   I have enough space for the steering column, the ignition plug and the shifter linkage
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/vjh2jczyb/IMGP7439_zpseeaa6cab.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/sbcl6vqpf/IMGP7437_zps77976d01.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/oez9aw5pr/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/wkhb921oj/IMGP7442_zps55ee98ba.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/so3zd2gov/)
   
   but I still have to slot it the area of the clutch lever
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/9j0q3bhgj/IMGP7441_zps41f69b4b.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/orqnh3b4v/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: nikbj68 on October 24, 2013, 17:54:49
Oh that looks a lot more pleasing on the eye. It looks like the clutch won`t need to come too far into the footwell, but dare I suggest a 'dog-leg' lever? OK, I`ll shut up now!
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on October 27, 2013, 14:33:24
My Jag differential case is back from painting. Time for assembling.
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/qwb0i4ur7/IMGP7447_zpsf6c48432.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/alawltajn/IMGP7446_zps8ff3cf58.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   I bought a new 2.88 CWP (right in the picture) but it is much thicker than my current CWP (left). Is here a JAG expert? Is it possible that the new CWP is from a DANA diff.? The pinion has DANA stamped in.
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/5mne6zwdf/IMGP7448_zpsffb3969a.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Anyway it does not fit into the case.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on November 05, 2013, 16:49:42
Sometimes I am astonished about my false estimation how much time some sub-projects need to be finished. For example, I thought that the modification of the right header exhaust will take much more time than only an afternoon. But it wasn't. On the other side I thought that the overhauling of the rear view mirror is quite simple.
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/6oxkpjmwj/IMGP6744_zps26f8780d.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   The problems started with disassembling. The mirror broke. The first painting of the case was problematic and I had to redone it. While I screwed in the bolts after the second paint I slipped of with the screwdriver. So I had to repaint it again. The re-chromed frame came back after more than 4 mounth. And it was in a quite bad condition. The vents were nearly closed by the chrome and the opening of the frame was smaller than before because of too much chrome. While I tried to push the frame onto the case the mirror broke again because it was a little bit to big. Needless to say that the paint of the case got some ugly scratches.
   
   The next mirror was produced by technical drawing and not by copying the original broke mirror. Now, it fits really good into the case. The frame was re-chromed again with precise assignments which parts had to be ground. And of course the case was painted again. Was it the fourth time? I don't know anymore. Now, the result after five (5 !!!) mounth:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/8gqjkpthf/IMGP7456_zpsb4b9178d.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/jgbqwb4gz/IMGP7453_zpsa5a599ee.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/r92eoai5v/IMGP7454_zpsde94a041.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: scud on November 06, 2013, 11:48:13
Broken mirrors and bats at this time of year. You're a brave man not taking the month off!!
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on November 08, 2013, 13:55:53
After the flop with the CWP from a big european dealer for vintage parts, I bought a differential at ebay.
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/kilxesxk3/IMGP7465_zps4cd9ef9b.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   The hardest part was carrying this fat baby into the basement. With brakes and rotors it has my weight [xx(]
   
   Opening it looks quite promissing. The wheels are wet
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/eufmnx0xf/IMGP7466_zps6040fc9a.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   and have the same size as my old wheels
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/lkw3xcvsz/IMGP7468_zpsf8d436ed.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Inspecting the new CWP it seems that this differential was overhauled and after that only some miles used. The wheels had still the paste you used to positioning the correct end. The brake rotors from Brembo have no signs of use.
   
   So, it will end up with a 3.07:1 ratio. The problem with my old CWP was corrosion at the pinion
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/g9h7cnhg3/IMGP7469_zpsabd0f191.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Now, I have a nearly complete differential, rear brakes, new rear rotors, an overhauled Jaguar 4 speed transmission (was installed in the Aceca). I think this a half cat. Where do I get the other half [:I]
   
   Now, it is time to work on the footbox again. It would be nice if these parts could speak. What is the story behind this cut in the footbox:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/hbrdv77z7/IMGP7498_zpsf29e93ac.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/5mne78h0f/)
   
   And more interesting, it was repaired from outside:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/cpv9mtjv7/IMGP7499_zps153b6430.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/t0vdj4wcv/)
   
   You cannot reach this area when the footbox is installed. Well, not when the car has it's body.
   
   I had to plane some areas:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/5mne78oqb/IMGP7500_zps00b6bc2e.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/mn6afx1rj/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on December 06, 2013, 18:52:40
Working on the footbox became boring. I started with a new project: a mounting bracket for the upper steering column and the acceleration pedal.
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/4kd7okvlf/IMGP7534_zps74ae5aba.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/dfe1z3ztf/IMGP7535_zps54e6a90f.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   The bad look will disappear as soon as the parts are powder coated.

(https://s19.postimg.cc/sbcl6pixv/IMGP7536_zps2b4148a4.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   A look from outside
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/gm8liqcjn/IMGP7533_zpse1357082.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/8thxqr6kf/)
   
   I got a little bit welding fever so I made these rings with weld nuts:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/lxni3glrn/IMGP7538_zpsd783995f.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   They will fix the air vents on the foot box:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/f770u16bn/IMGP7539_zpsc98847bc.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: French Frie on December 07, 2013, 09:57:24
I wish I could be as skilled as you are, Peter ! For my knowledge: what is that "golden pen" seen in your pics ?
Title: BE 646
Post by: AC Ace Bristol on December 07, 2013, 17:44:37
.
   French Frie.
   
    The Gold Pen   you refer to is infact a Drift/Punch.
   
   When carrying out a restoration project it is surprising how many tools you need or adapt to assist in achieving your goal.
   If God had intended we restore cars he would have given us Xray vision, three hands,   more flexible joints, vice like asbestos grip etc...
   |There again, in some cases he would have given us a brain and taught us how to use it..
   
   Great project, good  creative skills and ingenuity which have been developed and honed as the project continues.
   
   The Aceca is so complex compared to our faithful Ace and|Cobra, Mind you it would have been much easier to have kept it as standard and not enhanced
   with 400HP of V8..
   There again, It would be a Boring world if we all had the same taste and same skills.
   
   Looking forward to seeing this Aceca out on the Highway and track.[;)]
   
   Keith..[:)]
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on December 08, 2013, 09:55:59
Keith,
   
   V8 yes, but never 400HP. I think 180HP - 200HP is more than enough for that kind of car.
   
   Peter
Title: BE 646
Post by: mike harrison on December 14, 2013, 09:53:35
Do you intend to change the rear upright and outer driveshaft layout? I think the standard components will not be able to cope with the extra power/torque.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on December 17, 2013, 09:16:01
quote:
Originally posted by mike harrison
   
Do you intend to change the rear upright and outer driveshaft layout? I think the standard components will not be able to cope with the extra power/torque.
   

   
   Mike,
   
   so far I have no plans to replace the rear uprights. After finishing the footbox the next  work will be the disassembling of the axles. Then I have a look inside the uprights and I will decide how to proceed.
   
   Peter
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on January 01, 2014, 10:50:14
Last work of the last year: a transverse traverse for the engine mounting bracket to prevent it from rotation ...
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/wkhb8rbvn/IMGP7572_zps2ceba465.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/tdmrp4z5f/IMGP7578_zpse27f2619.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/g9h7cgmj7/IMGP7577_zps7ed8d9e1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   ... and little plates to keep it in position:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/5zesd7oxv/IMGP7574_zpscb44ca1c.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   The welding nuts at the upper mounting bracket for the upper steering shaft allows to change the steering wheel heights without the need of a helping hand to fix the nut in the engine bay:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/v5fqk25nn/IMGP7575_zps25cd4216.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   I guess I just managed to finish the engine/transmission mounting problems in the last year. See what will happen this year [?]
Title: BE 646
Post by: French Frie on January 01, 2014, 11:28:31
Hi Peter,
   
   Best wishes for this new year and let's hope that this Aceca will be on the road in 2014 ! Sorry to ask, but why didn't you weld the engine mounts directly on the chassis , rather than being bolted ?
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on January 01, 2014, 13:43:06
quote:
Originally posted by French Frie
   
Hi Peter,
   
   Best wishes for this new year and let's hope that this Aceca will be on the road in 2014 ! Sorry to ask, but why didn't you weld the engine mounts directly on the chassis , rather than being bolted ?
   

   
   Hi Olivier,
   
   the car will be on the road this year, but probably not on it's own wheels ...
   
   I used this kind of clamped engine mounts because I didn't want big welding actions at the frame. This solution gives me (or more likely the person who will own this car when I am not on earth anymore) the possibility to change the engine without cutting off the mounts.
   
   It seems like a little bit complex solution but on the other hand it gave me the possibilty to play around with the right position of the engine wrt. place for headers, lower steering column, footbox and so on.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on January 10, 2014, 13:13:11
As I wrote I have to cut the footbox to get space for the clutch lever
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/batoxsdjn/IMGP7583_zps0eba6363.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   I only need 10 mm
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/k5uj8aumb/IMGP7588_zpsab50b061.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   You can find a lot of things in the kitchen which help you
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/4x4lujgdf/IMGP7589_zpse7020ad6.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/kvdbkoib7/IMGP7592_zps4a11ad6e.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Now, the clutch lever has enough space
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/3uufc0czn/IMGP7593_zps5af3bc93.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/maew9eytv/IMGP7595_zps631e151a.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Time for something complete different. The moment of truth is coming. I take a look inside the main frame
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/59w00qtib/IMGP7596_zps9b89e8b3.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   I found an interesting thing. Unfortunately, this quite robust but old borescope has analog technique and produces an S-VHS signal. The only S-VHS video grabber I found quickly works only with Windows XP and Vista but nearly kills my Windows 7  >:(.
   
   ... to be continued
Title: BE 646
Post by: BEX308 on January 15, 2014, 18:23:37
Peter,
   With a 289 installed I would encourage you to stiffen things up a bit. The video referenced in the link above is my car and I have complete details and pictures of how it was done; but Mikes description is very close. The modification effectively doubles the chassis stiffness but it is a lot of work. Both main tubes in 308 were bent in several places and required straightening prior to sleeving; 308 was raced and wrecked hard, so how many of the bends were from that I don't know. I can tell you that standing on the bare chassis before reinforcement caused a significant deflection and that the body was cracked in many places around the door openings. The tubes were driven all the way through without any problem; the worst part was the noise, and if Dorian's work is "bodging" as mentioned on this site I'd like to meet what you chaps call a real craftsman, the man is highly skilled and an artist to boot.
   In terms of handling; you'll never find a chassis designer who believes chassis flex should be part of suspension design. 'Nuff said.
   Let me know if I can help.
   Pete
Title: BE 646
Post by: Klassik Metall on January 16, 2014, 19:44:42
Hi Peter
   
   The main chassis tubes on Aceca's were made from 12 swg (2.8mm) thick steel the same gauge
   as that of the 289 cobras, so unless you have serious corrosion you should be OK with your new power plant.
   
   The Ace used 14swg (2.6mm) tube hence their more flexible nature.
   Also all the AC's with twin tube chassis tend to have a downward bow, due to the amount of
   welds that were made on only the top of the chassis tubes. Although the chassis would have been held in a jig
    for welding the arc welding originally used has very fast heating and rapid
    cooling which causes the weld area to shrink and pull considerably.
   
   I've found on several Aces that I've had in for repair that the chassis has quite a large bow
   end to end, yet the doors are still in perfect alignment with no closing of the door gaps.
   Therefor the main chassis tubes must have been bowed before the body subframe was
   completed. When I've tried to remove the bowing the door gaps open considerably and the
   door locks no longer align.
   
   Regards Luke.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on January 17, 2014, 18:51:55
Pete,
   
   I looked the video after you have mentioned it. It doesn't look like a funny work. My nightmare would be to have the new tube 1 m inserted and then nothing works anymore. No way to shift the new tube further in nor to get it out  :-\
   
   Luke,
   
   thank you for you comment. I think I have to open the tube at the front and back and clean them. As far as I could see I don't have rust problems in these tubes. In this case I think it is not necessary to insert new tubes. But it maybe a good idea as Mike mentioned to insert some kind of steel web. I think about four different possibilities:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/83z5e2lcz/Profile1_zps870137cc.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Solution 1 and 2 are quite simple since they would use standard parts (solution 2: a 50x50 mm square tube. The o.d. of the diagonal would be 71 mm but since the edges are rounded it should work). Solution 3 would be a T-profile. It is not so easy to find a 70 mm T-profile which is 3 mm strong. I think solution 4 would be the best but this is not a standard profile. This profile must be produced with a laser welder.
   
   What do you think?
Title: BE 646
Post by: BEX308 on January 19, 2014, 17:07:42
Peter,
   I know of at least one Ace that has used your option 1. It requires plug welding both edges every few inches to prevent buckling of the web to obtain the stiffness improvement. I looked at that approach and was not happy with the increase in stiffness obtained unless you go to a very heavy web. The moments of inertia (proportional to bending stiffness) for several possibilities are:
   Ace standard tube .083
   Aceca standard tube 1.034
   10 Ga web insertion   add  .24
   2.75 x .12 tube insertion add  .857
    Your option 2 would not be very effective in adding stifness for the amount of material used; it would be more effective with the square section rotated 45 degrees to provide 2 webs and 2 flanges in the loaded direction.
   I suspect options 3 and 4 are more trouble for less gain than either the square or tube insertion.
   Pete
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on February 06, 2014, 16:17:40
I love the moment when parts arrive back from powder coating just before I can ruin them by assembling.
   
   The differential brackets with new rubber bushes
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/82p7l2z37/IMGP7656_zpsc039f1b6.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   In the background you can see the engine mounts not powder coated. There can only be one reason for that :o
   
   Small parts for the heating and fresh air system
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/psqw64ztf/IMGP7657_zps662fc2ab.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   The mounting bracket for the upper steering column and the throttle pedal
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/qv12ong1v/IMGP7654_zpse4458d02.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   The boot lock and the lower part of the gas cap (nice constrast between the rechromed and the black powder coated part)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/4j39v9onn/IMGP7662_zps8418ea07.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/6aw8q6v5v/IMGP7660_zps2bcd9fda.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   and last but not least the hand brake lever. What a pity that it will be covered by leather.
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/szlfpr4tv/IMGP7664_zps8857ac1e.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on February 16, 2014, 09:38:15
I spent the last days removing the running gear.
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/8fglr7c77/IMGP7731_zps11f2f6c2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   As expected it was a terrible job. The front lower wishbones seems to be as they wouldn't have been removed over the last 50 years.
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/vtol34mer/IMGP7700_zps7b665f0c.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/rkjv0z6ar/IMGP7701_zps2727a2af.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   I had to cut most of the bolts, drilling and heating them before I was able to remove them. The sad rest of the bolts and rubber bushes.
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/70f12gvoj/IMGP7728_zps28a2f46f.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   In the past the lower wishbones were repaired in a not quite professional way.
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/xy8y483gz/IMGP7730_zps9a1b8c25.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/5y4ujy00f/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on February 19, 2014, 16:56:48
Let the dirt-days begin
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/5ldgdqf5v/IMGP7735_zps9b7163af.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)

   
   ... after the first day the air wasn't so good anymore ...
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/u1vm87nmb/IMGP7736_zps45d3bcb7.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on February 22, 2014, 09:29:06
15 hours later. A lot of dirt
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/odpbhagoz/IMGP7743_zps80f461c8.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   and nearly 20 bristle discs (don't know the correct word)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/i008e1jir/IMGP7742_zps816f26fb.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   and the car has nearly no paint anymore. And the best news, no new big surprises [:)]
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/gkynpbq5f/IMGP7737_zps66095488.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/4vuo1d6wj/IMGP7739_zpsab981191.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: ace_mark on February 23, 2014, 12:48:38
quote:
Originally posted by dkp_cobra
   
My Jag differential case is back from painting. Time for assembling.
   
   
   
   I bought a new 2.88 CWP (right in the picture) but it is much thicker than my current CWP (left). Is here a JAG expert? Is it possible that the new CWP is from a DANA diff.? The pinion has DANA stamped in.
   
   (http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r138/dkp_cobra/BE%20646/IMGP7448_zpsffb3969a.jpg)
   
   Anyway it does not fit into the case.
   

   
   Yes thats normal the Higher the Ratio is the Thicker the CWP is...
   is it the same ratio?
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on February 23, 2014, 16:04:28
No, it wasn't the same ratio. The thicker was a 2.88 the smaller the original 3.07. The problem was that the 2.88 didn't fit into the case. Now, the diff is built up with an original 3.07 CWP.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on March 06, 2014, 10:56:21
Further 17 hours also the rest and the inside is paint-free.
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/hn8u7qj7n/IMGP7753_zps058bb14d.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/rkjv0wtf7/IMGP7761_zpsa1649972.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/vgx6wsr8j/IMGP7755_zpse4a86a78.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Now, I know why I got a replacement for the left rear wing although I need one for the other side:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/q5iac3cvn/IMGP7758_zps53863908.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   The car had an accident on the left rear wing but on the front part. The rear part was ok. So, a complete new left rear wing was bought but only the first 2/3 part was cut and welded in.
   
   One can see the edge of the replacement part (top) and the really bad weld seam with its holes:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/5y4ujsn43/IMGP7759_zps6d7e4c68.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   And it wasn't welded to the door sill but riveted and covered with 10 mm body filler:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/et5ouaor7/IMGP7760_zps64b265a7.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on March 22, 2014, 16:26:55
Thank Barrie I have a new wall decoration
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/i008duolv/IMGP7773_zps791072f8.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on April 04, 2014, 20:05:54
The today topic is "applied mathematics". I love it if I can use some of the maths stuff I learned in school to help real problems.
   
   Since the tubes of our cars are round we often have the same problem: cutting a hole into a tube in order to insert another tube:
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/ibhor0ab7/Rohrprojektion_zps339cd99d.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   It would be nice if we can compute the dotted surface in order to print it, clue it onto the tube and make the cut along the edge.
   
   All you need is Pythagoras' theorem and trigonometric functions. Playing around with gnuplot I used this script:
   
   
Code: [Select]
set xzeroaxis
set yzeroaxis
set param
set samples 10000
r1 = 42.5
r2 = 38
plot [0:2*pi] sin(t)*r1,sgn(cos(t))*r2*asin(sqrt(r1**2-(sin(t)*r1)**2)/r2) notitle
   
   The result looks really strange
   
   (https://s19.postimg.org/l6urxa6f7/305267c5-6d11-4d9b-8fd9-d2551146a1cf_zps9e776d38.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   but we have the special case that r1 > r2.
   
   Sticking it onto the tube doesn't make it better
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/g879itfhv/IMGP7778_zpsa805c837.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/7d6f8aqpb/)
   
   but when you turn the tube it really works
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/ku3dr68qr/IMGP7779_zps02703b65.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/58m277wsf/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/fvfvco7ir/IMGP7781_zpse2f486e4.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/fioh6hp8v/)
   
   I used the same technique to make an upper cut on the tube.
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/70f1253ar/IMGP7786_zpsa084effd.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/qv12o9asj/IMGP7787_zps40c9b005.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   This time the border should have an angle of 45°.
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/6aw8prnbn/IMGP7790_zps1028ecef.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   ... and yes, this is a new version of the engine mount. It is the third version and I get more and more welding practice. The reason for the new version is that the engine mount should also enforce the stiffness of the main frame.
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/pfzhzjp4z/IMGP7791_zpsf1fcdd1a.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: Gus Meyjes on April 29, 2014, 02:16:33
Peter,
   
   I have not been on the forum for a long time. Your work is fantastic! Amazing progress and quality!
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on May 06, 2014, 14:07:56
Back from the holidays I got a reproduction of my identification plate (above)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/k3anlvjdf/IMGP3568_zps49738d58.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/3sajpk6vj/)
   
   I think it is a really good quality. So, I someone need also a new plate I guess the guy who made this one is happy to produce further plates.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on June 13, 2014, 15:29:24
Since my last update I worked a little bit on the footbox
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/fhejdbv7n/IMGP3615_zpsbcd18fd8.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   and was thinking about the strength enforcement of the chassis. I used a self-adjusting cross-line laser at the end of the car
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/6mdp2te4z/IMGP3581_zpsceeef2e0.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   to get a horizontal line. I measured the distance of both main tubes every 10 cm to this laser line.
   
   It shows that even in the unloaded form the main tubes have the form of a banana
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/slk3q7agj/Unbelastet3_zps96433ded.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   The bend is nearly 9 mm at the widest distance.
   
   Then, I install the engine and transmission and measured the bend compared to the unloaded version
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/vfn93hs0j/right_half-loaded_zps14e9c9ee.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Maximal 1 mm was added to the bend. To simulate passengers I add additional 205 kg in that area
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/io92wz2sz/IMGP3612_zps0aeeb9df.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Maximal 2 mm was added campared to the unloaded version.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/rj9x7j1w3/right_full-loaded_zpscd04eb4c.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   The next measure shows the difference between this full-loaded and the previous half-loaded version
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/prgycmatf/right_half-fullloaded_zps276574da.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   As expected 1 mm maximal deflection.
   
   I made this static stress test over two weeks. The next pictures shows the difference in the full-loaded version between the first and the last day of measurement
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/5wuwqhnw3/right_full-loaded_first_last_zps3b6f10ff.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Also, as expected the frame bends a little bit more over the time. One important question is whether the frame flips back to it's original bend after un-loading. The next picture shows the difference between the original bend at the beginning and at the end of measurement.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/rw1bdox0j/right_unloaded_first_last_zps4c8c6290.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   We can see the curves are nearly identical. The effect that the frame is more straight at the end is due to some reading errors during measuring.
   
   So, what I can learn from this? I think the frame is relatively strong for this kind of static stress. To enforce it by inserting some kind of metal web the main tubes must first be straightened. Is this possible? Will be the effect that the doors will not close anymore as Luke mentioned above?
   
   Any comments are very welcome.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on June 20, 2014, 16:00:15
Opening the main tubes:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/azynnhcpv/IMGP3639_zps18adcb3a.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/uukp9muib/IMGP3640_zps8989dc00.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   I had also opening the front part:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/xbwggvyz7/IMGP3643_zpscc2d869f.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   What a lot of rust coming out of these small tubes going to the nose. I think the fault was not to drill a small drain hole into them where they hit the main tube.
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/nelfntjnn/IMGP3644_zpse706bf69.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   The left main tube was modified in previous times to allow a bigger gearbox:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/v7c3ftkhv/IMGP3646_zps3f583c84.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   I opened this section to close it later when sleeving is done.
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/z3pfbsq1v/IMGP3647_zpsd3a1fea7.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Inside the tube it looks quite promising.
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/azynnhkfn/IMGP3648_zpsa8913650.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on July 04, 2014, 12:15:43
Today was the great day: sleeving the main tube! Everybody how did this before tells you the right preparation i.e. cleaning the tubes from inside is the key to success. How right they are.
   
   I used an axial grinder with a steel brush to clean the tubes from rust and the swarfs from drilling.
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/v7c3fhkeb/IMGP3651_zps77717ebb.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   I tested the clearance with a piece of the same diameter (70 mm) like the tubes which will be inserted.
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/85vi9qsgj/IMGP3650_zps0346032d.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Now, the tube is really clean from inside. It was no problem to shift the test cylinder through the main tube.
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/cf08bwgab/IMGP3656_zps6d4c7fbf.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   The only reason why the sleeving could be a hard work if the tubes are so clean is that the main tube is not straight but the inserted tube is.
   
   I used some kind of frame made from a steel girder in order to straighten the main tube during sleeving.
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/kx9oga4tf/IMGP3665_zps06d99bd5.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/an79h1mnn/IMGP3662_zps4612db2f.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Lubricating the main tube from inside:
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/5ojr2hnzn/IMGP3666_zpsbf945078.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Now, it's show time. Will it works?
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/hqf4wn4xv/IMGP3668_zpsd02b9050.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   I can see the head ...
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/gbdk7wof7/IMGP3667_zps5088648d.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   With all the preparation sleeving was indeed an easy job. It took 15 minutes and I used only a 3kg sledge. That's not much.
   
   Between the tubes is still a lot of grease which is quite good.
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/mcb955y8j/IMGP3674_zps1589af72.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   In the front section the main tube is bent up due to the welding heat.
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/8veamavmr/IMGP3675_zps93792c0a.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   A look from the back shows the old tube someone else inserted to enforce the back in the area of the differential mounts and the new tube.
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/9kx2yhoer/IMGP3673_zpsc176ccf9.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   The tube I insered has a 70 mm o.d. and a wall strength of 1.9 mm. The weight is 6650g for one tube.
Title: BE 646
Post by: Klassik Metall on July 04, 2014, 20:34:47
Well done Peter, as you rightly pointed out the trick to this job is in the preparation.
   Just remember to firmly brace the tube before welding in the repair section to stop it
   pulling/distorting.
   
   Regards,
   Luke.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on July 09, 2014, 12:46:54
The tube can be closed again:
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/prys0uvrn/IMGP3718_zps430b9e9e.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/v3dolkhu7/)
   
   The cover plate has a hole for later inspection anticorrosive coating:
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/zcienpasz/IMGP3719_zps27f7a263.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   The news sub-structure is connected with the old by sleeves.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/e2uscvhnn/IMGP3720_zps9f93f3e6.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/yzr0hjv43/IMGP3723_zps203b3939.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Now, the other side of the sub-structure can be removed and the tube can be opened.
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/je9oxkw0j/IMGP3725_zps88bb54e7.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   How the inside of the tube looks before cleaning
   
(https://s19.postimg.cc/hmgq2o4xv/IMGP3727_zpsbee21721.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on July 21, 2014, 19:51:41
You could see that the right tube had much more rust inside. Another problem was that due to some dents on the bottom the i.d. was not always at least 70 mm:
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/tx9omsw4j/IMGP3749_zpse422605c.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/xgvmclyu7/)
   
   It took 5 (!!!) hours to clean the tube inside. At the end only the first 80 cm were rusty the rest was free of rust. I used rust converter in this section:
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/b4xtj7s0j/IMGP3753_zpsc90b6f7b.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/kphg644hv/IMGP3754_zps3419ff90.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Now, let the funny games start. Last time I thought I had the hottest day of the year to sleeve the left main tube. That was wrong. Today was even hotter and much higher air humidity. What a fun.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/olus24cmr/IMGP3757_zpsd9738bd5.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   But due to the intensely cleaning job the sleeving took again only 9 minutes.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/wrcu09lg3/IMGP3759_zps332401c7.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Grease squeezed out of the first welding hole.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/wrcu0a8lf/IMGP3760_zps07a2d46f.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   A look inside the new sleeved tube:
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/hveasnulv/IMGP3763_zps9d073915.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Now, after cutting the overlapped tube the sub-structure can be restored. This will be the next job.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/dm9kqiehv/IMGP3764_zps07e99ad5.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on July 23, 2014, 17:46:00
Closing the tube and restoring the right sub-structure. The main tube of the sub-structure was already sleeved in the past. I could/had to reuse it.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/6uj5o1n1v/IMGP3765_zpsb2989ad3.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/7wtc6ldkz/IMGP3766_zps49888f65.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on October 10, 2014, 10:32:47
After holidays I closed the main tube
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/fbinyq73n/IMGP3970_zps4db3506a.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   and made a new engine mount. I think ít is version 3.1. The last version worked fine but I had the idea that the cross-bar can be used to reduce some misalignment of the main tubes.
   
   All I had to do was to extend the cross-bar by 2 to 3 mm.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/m1z5861z7/IMGP4016_zps4c4caf4b.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Well, I didn't extend the old cross-bar but weld in a new one.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/i5ltc6wf7/IMGP4018_zps2e200c86.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Now, it is finished and I can start with other tasks.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/rde1sulgz/IMGP4021_zps5074ecb5.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/gqk8nfsr7/IMGP4022_zpsd19cf4d5.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/8xtkvhhn7/IMGP4024_zps8bcaf012.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on October 19, 2014, 19:29:11
I have the impression that I have more than 100 holes in the frame which must be closed. Here are some of them
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/f8ysbp8j7/IMGP4027_zps70fadcf9.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/4m4z6b2yr/IMGP4028_zpsc4cab56e.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/qlbdtijsv/)
   
   Welding this section is not so easy. 5A too much and instead of closing a 2 mm hole you stare into a 10 mm hole.
   
   Now, they are closed
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/y1anfazsj/IMGP4037_zps75b41ce8.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   I think that this open end was always a way that dirt, mud and water could have found its way into this sub-frame section
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/u4xbjarnn/IMGP4035_zpse3d890d8.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Now, it's over
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/3jusnqx03/IMGP4036_zps6c67a736.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on November 04, 2014, 12:08:12
before removing the right sill
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/58zai3i6r/IMGP4048_zps2248e714.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/g8khtp8lr/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/5lqoo9l0z/IMGP4044_zps5bfa9bfd.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   and after
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/m9i6qrnib/IMGP4057_zps62efecfa.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/fj1phc0cf/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/nojrfibqr/IMGP4053_zps0df6841c.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   the wood looks surprisingly good
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/f6abb5xib/IMGP4054_zps37604baf.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on November 10, 2014, 18:59:19
You can see the right rear cross bar between the main tube to the sill tube. This was badly repaired some time ago.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/cnomac6lf/IMGP7756_zps8eb44685.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Today, I removed the repair panel. Oh, this doesn't look good [B)]
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/6zibjfmtf/IMGP4059_zps3152b500.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on November 27, 2014, 19:04:57
I think some of the Aceca owners know the problem with the upper cross tube over the differential. It's an important tube due to the upper mounting points of the rear shocks. In my car this tube was badly repaired in the past ...
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/iv00awn1f/IMGP4060_zps6dc08795.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   has holes on the one side ...
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/tul7mi5qr/IMGP4061_zps07787d3e.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   and cracks on the other side ...
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/djl3q7o43/IMGP4062_zps0bbe6588.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   This tube must be replaced. After cutting this tube another dropped down:
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/g0wuxhng3/IMGP4070_zps04c194e2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   because it has a little bit rust inside
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/yx2jh3rtv/IMGP4068_zps8611007c.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   The upper cross tube behind the seats has a dent caused by an accident in the past.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/8kxlbos0z/IMGP4065_zps0995821c.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Time to try a new tool: a 3 kg panel puller
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/5e31s1kfn/IMGP4066_zps38a0d155.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   This is no work for the fainthearted. As my welder says: the stroke you cannot hear hurts [xx(]
   
   But it works
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/yghbuvef7/IMGP4067_zps618ecfff.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: Migge on November 28, 2014, 10:25:53
Is it not better to remove the shell and sandblast the whole frame/chassis to see what's left?
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on November 29, 2014, 12:09:06
quote:
Originally posted by Migge
   
Is it not better to remove the shell and sandblast the whole frame/chassis to see what's left?
   

   
   I don't think so. It is quite clear where the problems are. All tubes with rivets got water inside. The problem is that the water flows to the lowest point and destroyed the small tubes from inside. Sandblasting would show this.
   
   Removing the shell is a really big job. Putting the shell back has the problem to hit all old rivet holes. If you don't get these it will look wrong at the end.
   
   My bonnet was removed in the past. Now, there are a lot of holes beside the current rivets. And this is a much smaller part than the whole shell.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on February 26, 2015, 15:58:39
Oh, three month without any update. Well, I am still alive and I am working on the rear chassis to replace to rotten tubes. It's a lot of work. For all the people who love the original patina look of cars I have some impressions:
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/6p5r2yeqb/P1000113_zpsiuhjzihp.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/5a46edy9f/IMGP4100_zpszmsa3egz.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/rytddy7xf/IMGP4099_zpszbugaaun.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/fk6ldmgf3/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/dsdmirmsj/IMGP4068_zps8611007c.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/zesmzw0tf/P1000078_zpsahvdj6ue.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/bb1vblxs3/P1000079_zpsirwcyvzk.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Every rotten tube is connected to two other tubes. These are often damaged at the contact tip and must also be replaced.
   
   As I mentioned before, the riveted tubes got water inside and rotted at the lowest point from inside to outside. If this point is a contact to another tube this is also to be replaced.
   
   Sometimes I make new parts like the rear square tubes for the rear bumper brackets
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/6p5r38p3n/P1000088_zps2wuaovub.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   and I have to notice after the work that the bent in the old part was not caused by an accident but was intentionally [xx(]
   
   So, next try:
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/9w0amvoz7/P1000093_zpsxtn7e8pu.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on March 13, 2015, 16:40:30
To make a quite long story short: I replaced some of the small tubes in the rear sub-frame.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/6zd9mp6bn/P1000138_zpspyewkaij.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   You can't see what's new? Well, let me point to the right direction:
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/cjpqx8i0j/Praumlsentation1_zpsqcjh0twn.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Yes, no tube is pointed twice.
   
   Uh, and what is still original? These are original tubes:
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/6zd9moylv/P1000140_zps8hue1z9z.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/pexqk3cq7/)
   
   To make the tubes and fit one after the other into the existing sub-frame, checking the alignment and tack-weld them took a quite long time. In the rear section the tubes cannot be welded without removing the body. So I remove the sub-frame in order to weld it outside:
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/ioh9ao503/P1000141_zpsfpbka1my.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   I tack-welded some stay tubes to I can be sure that after the welding the sub-frame still fits into the car.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on April 25, 2015, 20:01:24
And yes, it still fits into the car:
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/ii3k76qlv/P1000143_zpsbg3idyls.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   During the last mounth no progress was made due to holidays and a lot of work. But I got new parts these days. Oh, how I love big boxes:
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/mr8a9e45v/P1000501_zpsgcqqjjjx.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   The tension rises:
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/elq8b9q7n/P1000503_zpsba8jwzok.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Wonderful new panels for both sides of the rear section:
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/dw7fyucsj/P1000504_zpsahgocu24.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/gdj7661ur/P1000506_zpshznge4yj.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   The panels were made by Luke (http://www.acownersclub.co.uk/forum/pop_profile.asp?mode=display&id=2328 (http://www.acownersclub.co.uk/forum/pop_profile.asp?mode=display&id=2328)). A fantastic job. Thank you very much.
Title: BE 646
Post by: Klassik Metall on April 26, 2015, 11:32:13
Hi Peter,
   
   I was glad to be able to help. I hope all goes well with fitting the panels.
   
   Regards,
   Luke.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on May 05, 2015, 19:57:06
You lucky guys paid in pounds or dollar, you don't have to think about what to do with your money, but we poor euro guys have to tax our brains what we can buy today before tomorrow it's to expensive.
   
   I decided to buy more cars. Beside a Cobra and an Aceca, a 428 coupe and a Greyhound fits quite well into the collection. And to demonstrate how the Greyhound got it's boot, a AM DB4 fits perfectly.
   
   Of course everything must be maintained. So a garage was the next point on the shopping list. Now, the wallet is empty but the result is quite nice.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/6djpczbmr/DSC_0645_zpsdrdmqc5p.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   And yes, it's really my garage. There are two pictures of BE646 at the wall [:)]
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on June 23, 2015, 14:30:21
During the last weeks the car got new brackets for the shock absorbers (both sides)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/ymldn0k43/P1000551_zps50q7vn7f.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/zc45zdsdf/P1000554_zpscnhfnukq.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/4hwx1nmqn/)
   
   and a complete new bracket for the rear right lower wishbone (the rear one)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/4hwx1o9w3/P1000557_zps0ylmhahx.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   This was a horror job. A single welding spot destroyed the complete allignment. I had to fix it in a quite complicated way. The complete job took more than 10 hours.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/uq81r1m9v/P1000562_zpsinuzmhlq.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   But now, it's finished
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/h9b38du0j/P1000568_zpset69gfkx.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   and the allignment is perfect
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/vts62mh37/P1000569_zpsbm3493aa.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/vts62mosz/P1000570_zpskqxblto7.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on June 29, 2015, 13:18:09
I nearly forgot this little friend
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/v2zfwwjvn/P1000571_zpskbvsnsy5.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/455iv66yb/P1000572_zpsq0udnv7z.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   It's the bracket for fixing the spare wheel
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/m7ylmei8j/P1000573_zpsmhkngpu0.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)

   The reason why I missed this part is that at the old sub-frame someone cut this in the old days
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/455iv6eo3/P1000574_zpspfljcdxw.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on June 30, 2015, 16:23:32
Maybe the reason for cutting the bracket was that the replacement tank is a little bit to fat in this area
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/w3zomeyer/P1000657_zpsqnydgemr.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   The rear sub-frame is finished (well, at least the welding work). It took much more time than expected.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/bjuunxaxv/P1000659_zpsfzyqn0ec.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)

   (https://s19.postimg.cc/5ix5quglv/P1000660_zpswv9tptln.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on July 01, 2015, 14:41:36
What this hobby makes so interesting is that everytime you have finished one task there is a bigger problem around next corner.
   
   Today, I checked the clearance between fuel tank and rear lower wishbone
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/ky0s7ee6r/P1000662_zpsm6ap64v8.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   and I had to recognize that there is a gap of approximately 5 mm between the new bracket and the lower wishbone
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/gc4nz2837/P1000663_zpsnvaacszq.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/roh9gugrz/)
   
   One the other (original) side everything fits perfect.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/heeuhlj6r/P1000664_zpsisrr7ajx.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/ns3xkuo2n/)
   
   So, did I make something wrong during welding the new bracket?
   
   Checking the allignment of the rear bracket:
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/di1ilkvmb/P1000667_zpsisw0xbr1.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/7h3toi8zz/)
   
   Everything is fine. So, checking the front bracket:
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/md2cw2x9f/P1000668_-_Kopie_zpsw0gmjjwj.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/7h3tohlun/)
   
   Here, we have the problem. The front bracket for the lower right rear wishbone has a wrong position. Getting a correct allignment shows exactly the 5 mm:
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/waddp67g3/P1000674_zps6le7ki2l.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   I guess this means the front bracket must be shift 5 mm.
   
   (http://s3.amazonaws.com/rapgenius/Homer-Simpson-Doh.jpg)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on July 10, 2015, 10:27:15
I checked also the front brackets of the front lower wishbones. Both have a disallignment of 4 mm [xx(]
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/3wvlpgt4j/P1000677_zps98xzi3b8.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/4mee1u1dv/P1000676_zpseuoi9hwt.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: Klassik Metall on July 10, 2015, 12:37:37
Peter,
   
   What you've found on your chassis is in my experience completely normal, the chassis for these cars were by no means precision engineered! The cars with rubber wishbone bushes seem to be much worse than the earlier bronze bushed cars and I've never worked on one where you can insert a 5/8" bar through every pair of mountings. As you also probably know the camber angles can also be quite a bit out, not just from the position of the spring centre bolt but also because the front and rear towers can be off centre too.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on July 23, 2015, 15:09:33
Time to remove the sub-frame of the right door sill.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/punh5bg4j/P1000751_zpsalwefcjs.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   As aspected a lot of rust
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/v62dq1hmr/P1000754_zps5ysjrh0j.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   but after a light stroke with a screw driver you can see into the tube
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/6cstpee1v/P1000755_zpspjawrbrq.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   and we have a hole in the main tube
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/gzmmuttwz/P1000756_zpseyuvzp5w.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   but due to the fact that it is sleeved this doesn't make headache. Just close it ...
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/3vh2i3jur/P1000759_zpskqwnqesy.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/bbgc3wf9v/P1000760_zpsldttsmtl.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   ... and finished:
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/3vh2i4mfn/P1000762_zpsihdih1fn.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   I also closed the rear end of the main tubes:
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/t2wjw4exf/P1000740_zps7slwuzw7.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   first gluing
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/otrtty3yb/P1000742_zpsnmee9liq.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/5ookk6hkj/P1000743_zps0pjzhcuc.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/sq55pxh7z/)
   
   then welding
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/6pk7vk96b/P1000763_zpsiesampdk.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on September 04, 2015, 14:28:47
The new sub-frame for the right door sill is welded to the main frame:
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/4xr90hac3/P1010086_zpsmwo2vlnh.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/96vz2ndlb/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/mnsxlig77/P1010087_zps8ddbppcm.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/u3s77b3wf/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/ycwx9gzg3/P1010089_zpsj4c4dk7j.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/7f307qesv/)
   
   Time for the left side. The main frame is only a little bit rusty . No need for repairing it like on the right side.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/9werezqzn/P1010090_zpsojylyao3.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/7f307q733/)
   
   The left sub-frame is removed.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/xne4x3jgz/P1010093_zps1zudovtw.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/nq3441bv3/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on September 08, 2015, 17:49:50
and the other side
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/5m03juolv/P1010099_zpsdsxvxzq6.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/jfog8wh73/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/ccgkta41v/P1010100_zps9ngqt3im.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/w72mfej9b/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on September 09, 2015, 17:52:55
With the new sub-structure the last two tubes connecting the upper with the lower sub-frame could be replaced. The right was corroded from inside and the left ..., well one more or less tube doesn't make a difference.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/efr00sqyb/P1010104_-_Kopie_zpsdne3rduz.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/togxekkmn/)
   
   Now, with so many parts replaced it is interesting to know whether some old parts still fits. Let's make a little test.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/ktg3418oz/P1010108_zpsaupttoi8.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/5kq5q9f0f/)
   
   Doesn't look so bad even in the details.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/a6m9yll43/P1010107_zps1bjzzbx0.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/k3xarnspr/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/liyvgeoo3/P1010106_zpsnrmsxy7s.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/xxlngqg67/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on September 11, 2015, 14:30:45
I am sure that one day this car will have seats. Maybe this will take 20 years but one day ...
   
   ... and then I need cross bracing for the seat runners.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/vg9w96lwj/P1010109_zpsp8xiszse.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/narub0xnj/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/aw52aoj03/P1010110_zpsrpm8wjnc.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/yn4fssj73/)
   
   I used an additional cross bracing in the rear part so there is no need to fix the runners at the rear section of the sub frame. The original frame is open but my construction is closed.
   
   The wood at the B column is fixed with two sheet metal screws using a little pice of wood to get the right alignment.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/5xhjw4s1v/P1010111_zpsgkc4vj9g.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/cny15kf7j/)
   
   I am sure that this simple solution can be make much more complex with this brace
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/e2zluao0j/P1010112_zpsjmsiklgi.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/ktg33qb67/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/yn4fssqwz/P1010113_zpsibnllbyw.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/6a8y2c56n/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on September 17, 2015, 19:39:51
A great day today. The rear sub frame is finished and ready for welding to the main frame.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/9ejlzkgyr/P1010128_zpssj4gsk1e.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/imbug9o0v/)
   
   Always a little thrill to weld already painted tubes. The colour tends to burn if the tubes become to hot [ :-\]
   
   But I managed it:
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/a42ebwmn7/P1010133_zpsb5hphael.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/4fw3l0ian/)
   
   and the alignment seems to be ok so far
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/434peu7qr/P1010130_zpselfo0e5r.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/5i6a3k8tr/)
   
   The wood structure between this sub frame and the rear aluminium is normally screwed from top to bottom through the wood into the upper tube. Since I have still the aluminium skin above the wood I cannot do this. I will screw from bottom to top through the tubes into the wood. Here, the problem can be that the tube can be crumpled by the screws. To avoid this I welded some small (6mm) tubes into the cross tube to pass the screws through.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/434peufgj/P1010129_zpslrnb7ihu.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/g5038zoov/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on December 04, 2015, 14:30:48
After stop working for two mounth due to other important projects I am back now. Where should I start after such a long time? I decided to improve something I thought it is already finished: the engine mount [:o)]
   
   The modification are four bolts connecting the upper and lower braces.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/q1168p7cj/P1010155_zpsd06aflxa.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/mhf8iw4mn/)
   
   This courses holes in the frame
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/ebx6knvsj/P1010164_zpsgsugevfp.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/r3bcr65kf/)
   
   These are not only holes but I welded tubes inside so the bolts cannot deform the main tubes. Sorry for the bad picture, I didn't manage to connect this low-cost endoscope to my computer. What you can see are tubes not the bolts.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/sv4bm5h8j/P1010157_zpsvgewbppx.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/xh0fui2rj/)
   
   I hope that this sub project is really finished now.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/78pb52dib/P1010173_zpshakshdkb.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/544y3zbvj/)
   
   And if you lost the overview about the different stages of engine mount, here is a picture of the engine mount cemetery.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/9d9o66a03/P1010159_zpszxoewqp6.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/asb8uwb33/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on December 18, 2015, 14:30:57
We learned from Rob the the NZ standard for a driveshaft safety loop is a 50x6 mm flat bar (http://www.acownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2919&whichpage=5 (http://www.acownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2919&whichpage=5)). Well, easy to buy but how can I bend this?
   
   With a piece of pipe of the right dimension
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/5tnqg34mr/P1010176_zpswreagaqw.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/41url6l9r/)
   
   with some internal reinforcement
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/sv4bltwkj/P1010179_zpsc3c1hn5n.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/544y3pwdb/)
   
   and a modified pipe bender from our friends from far east
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/hvj4a8lkz/P1010181_zpspcg9u4bh.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/4rdjxjtj3/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/jakoyxrsz/P1010180_zpsagpvp2pm.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/ixtasr9j3/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/afjuofaqb/P1010184_zpskisxieid.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/z8tep2tqn/)
   
   I am satisfied with the result
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/6j6isfab7/P1010187_zpswshfufx4.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/bulfd4wdr/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on December 21, 2015, 18:24:33
Now, it's in the car
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/rg2qx00lf/P1010188_zpshznlrfzj.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/lf51zxdz3/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on December 22, 2015, 16:39:03
Personally, I think wood is a nice material for a dash board but not anywhere in the context of the frame. Over the years the water destroys the wood. I decided to replace the wood in the section of the rocker panel by metal. In the front is the panel sheet, in the background the old wood block.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/yzr8lhzb7/P1010196_zpslszmty1i.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/e2v0gu1a7/)
   
   The new construction is much more stable, with the right paint more water resistent and it is lighter.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/q4qeasv1f/P1010195_zpsgxk1owkm.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/efmemu42n/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/aj92qubdf/P1010194_zpsy16z5blu.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/ocxffw3yn/)
   
   and welded to the frame
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/cntfs1nbn/P1010199_zps7ka0kb8a.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/7p5xdijin/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/xkpnwknvn/P1010200_zpstfruxgwt.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/yzr8laoyn/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/byanfjx0z/P1010201_zpszau97u4u.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/ibzqit1wv/)
   
   That's it. Time to decorate the Christmas tree.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on January 19, 2016, 19:02:33
The new year starts with a setback. When I replaced the lower part of the B-column I had to cut the tube connecting the A- and B-column at the B-Column. Welding it again I aligned this tube with the main tube.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/a6hokl8ib/P1010218_zpsh9qklnvy.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   The result is that the rear end of the door sill doesn't fit any more.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/r70kt9643/P1010220_zpsmbndbsie.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/57u661p9r/)
   
   This tube must be welded at a much higher place at the B-column. After re-placing it the gap looks much better.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/nan8x9der/P1010224_zpslolgfiql.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/81xbjhjq7/)
   
   Also the lhs door nearly fits.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/uqmij2gjn/P1010225_zpsag6c7mhx.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   The big gap on the right side (the rear of the door) is forced by the  left rear wing which was replaced in a wrong way in the past.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on January 25, 2016, 18:33:18
I think ever Aceca owner knows the problem: by the time the door hinges worn out. Additional to that my hinges were strongly modified during the time.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/tn2e78683/P1010204_zpsdfeail66.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   I found steel hinges with a 8 mm pin instead of the 1/4" pin. You can see them in the middle. They are wider and undrilled ...
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/56k8crsmr/P1010203_zpsavweujwn.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   ... and a little bit higher ...
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/pdxo52xtv/P1010207_zps0xuizki9.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   ... and due to the bigger pin also thicker.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/v23yvyf0z/P1010208_zpst3gpvlkb.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)

   But they fit fine at the frame.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/6yd77nh4j/P1010209_zpsm7ugqjn1.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/qsz8trwbz/)
   
   But due to the bigger thickness the door moves more to the rear side.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/5jbmiy36r/P1010211_zpsxvmaghnx.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Since I have to rework both doors this problem should be easy to fix.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on January 26, 2016, 16:13:28
New covers for the B-column:
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/x6obwy8wz/P1010233_zpsrwlwxm0f.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/3rinny4db/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/44a1u3k2b/P1010235_zpsftwi3qux.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/j08l1ovgv/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/iapspci2r/P1010238_zpstjdnqhl1.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/56k8cnq0v/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/dc2aatlzn/P1010237_zpsrioutiln.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/44a1u4exb/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/4h1g0aa1v/P1010236_zpsv7z1smyl.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/k2irk8lzz/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: BE774 on January 26, 2016, 17:57:08
Lovely pictures and a great thread showing your restoration. Much appreciated!
Title: BE 646
Post by: Robin A Woolmer on January 26, 2016, 21:08:44
I researched a source for  some brass hinges for a Greyhound Owner they can supply brass blanks for you to drill or they will with a charge drill them to drawing, I sent the catalogue to Steve Hall so if you need another source maybe you can contact Steve.
   
   Robin
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on February 17, 2016, 11:57:25
The riddle of the week: where are these panels located in a Aceca?
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/5jbmirvf7/P1010240_zps4dfoo8jh.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Time for guessing is runing out when the glue is dried.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/xw74989fn/P1010241_zpsgjeq5g8n.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: Klassik Metall on February 17, 2016, 17:49:20
The panels behind the B post. Normally just made from plywood, they allow the rear quarter panel return to be fixed with short panel pins.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on February 17, 2016, 18:25:21
Uh, we have a winner ...
Title: BE 646
Post by: Klassik Metall on February 17, 2016, 20:38:24
Sorry Peter, I cheated (inside knowledge) but do I still get a prize.[:)]
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on February 18, 2016, 13:41:24
quote:
Originally posted by Klassik Metall
   
Sorry Peter, I cheated (inside knowledge) but do I still get a prize.[:)]
   

   
   Well, not really cheating just the advantage of an insider. Your price is a cup of tea at my home. Whenever you are in north of Germany let me know you'll be very welcome.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on February 19, 2016, 17:00:28
A further inside look
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/wxet7kqdv/P1010244_zpsqklntcx7.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   after gluing and riveted (with countersunk heads for the front rivets, not shown in this picture)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/71v2ofm03/P1010247_zps8l0avvf3.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)


   and in its position
   
   front-side
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/xzozq71ib/P1010248_zps9jb5mn8s.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/orwr9hufz/)

   and back-side
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/mnce8gijn/P1010250_zpsxvtisrfk.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/ryrat64m7/)
   
   As Luke mentioned originally this panel was made of wood. I think not an optimal material in a section with a lot of water. Here you can see what was left from the original panel. The rest was rotten.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/v5luctc7n/P1010251_zpsvdht2c49.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/6ccac5t73/)

Title: BE 646
Post by: Klassik Metall on February 19, 2016, 18:39:48
Hello Peter,
   
   Yes, plywood isn't the most suitable material here but I guess these cars were not really for everyday use, or built to still be around in fifty years time.
   
   I may well take you up on that cup of tea one day!
   
   Regards Luke.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on March 01, 2016, 12:45:54
There is one problem with this panel construction: the heavy weight.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/hoovtyp1f/P1010253_zpspwxiz8m6.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   I think I over-dimentioned the construction a little bit. A next try with 1 mm panels instead of 1.5 mm and much smaller u-profile:
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/orwr9lhmb/P1010252_zpsijg639qt.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   The result is 600 g lighter.
   
   On the right side:
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/lxtlw5n5v/P1010258_zpspnddpuzz.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/gz63hmjcv/)
   
   (inside)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/d42pej56r/P1010259_zps15ckh0xc.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/4ykngdgxr/)
   
   and the left side:
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/crbb8g2df/P1010256_zpsawdjpzxb.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/491v43vun/)
   
   (and inside)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/wyor0r7kj/P1010257_zps5tjnqaua.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/ot6p2ljbj/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on April 08, 2016, 16:41:45
The original cover of the door sill is two-piece:
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/flegly1zn/P1010521_zpsf0mnmr9x.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/lz3jp7mb7/P1010522_zpsnwutm7sf.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   I thought a one piece construction would be much nicer. To make a quite long story short it was a horror. It took several attempts to get these covers fit.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/t2bf4tzgj/P1010514_zpsktdfbtql.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/wlxcuo4r7/P1010518_zps1h0y62cl.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.org/85f707jg3/P1010515_zpslbyccw8q.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/cejx2dmpb/)
   
   especially the curve in the front section
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/bp14q11lf/P1010516_zpsifxxhwe2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/3wagy23c3/P1010517_zpshtxlzu1m.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   If I have to do it again I would do it two-piece.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on April 27, 2016, 08:41:25
The old tank straps: dented and a lot of holes to fit the new tank.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/piphf4jwz/P1010528_zpslpnakbka.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/yqhpvu6er/P1010526_zps1jh4towj.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/6qdmbk2y7/)
   
   I made new straps. Seems like little work but takes some time to get the right measurement with the tank an the new sub-frame.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/5o3fszwzn/P1010525_zpsui4plevl.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/y0yxjgipr/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/raiga1azn/P1010524_zps8iz0sszp.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on May 04, 2016, 19:26:07
Maybe you remember my new B-column covers:
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/bp66n3xmb/P1010233_zpsrwlwxm0f.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/xbl744w6n/)
   
   The outline of these new panels were taken from the old panels and the outline of the rear wings.
   
   The outline of the new sandwich plates were taken from the old panels. Not surprisingly these two outlines are different:
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/w9b0lp0jn/P1010541_zpsixkn3bfb.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/gb2avjylv/P1010542_zps9zfvnrmc.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   So I decided to make the covers again. This time I took the outline of the new sandwich panels. Now, the outlines are identical.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/496x1f4sz/P1010545_zpsdfv6cppi.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Also, I modified the lower part of the covers. Now, they fit better at the rear end and also cover the inside part of the car down to the floor.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/wm2es4b6b/P1010536_zpsx2xthvhq.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/piujci5qn/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/ydvdn0f3n/P1010537_zpstn7wro5v.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/p6356aslv/P1010546_zpsy1arjfyl.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/crgd5z13j/)

   (https://s19.postimg.cc/3wfivgzgj/P1010534_zps5qdnyelf.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   and from behind:
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/xoclan6ub/P1010535_zpsu9yppkej.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/l9ptabfbz/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on May 21, 2016, 17:36:46
My rear window was quite scratched.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/oulot31qr/P1010645_zps4xgpterp.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   After polishing it looked much better ...
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/k8pkkqnxf/P1010646_zpstwznf6bf.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/qz61u6b33/)
   
   ... but there were still a lot of quite small scratches. Not visible when you look straight onto the window but in a certain angle it looks like the window was froozen.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/b0xc406kj/P1010647_zpsmwasqaaf.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/fa22669tr/)
   
   I wasn't able to remove these scratches so I decided to buy a new window from Geoff (thank you very much for your help, Geoff).
   
   The new window has the same width as my old window ...
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/d5hp530hf/P1010651_zpsatsku84d.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   ... but is higher.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/3xpgoe8ur/P1010652_zps7n3gx1e0.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   That's good because my old window was too short. It worked only because the old rubber was much bigger than the new one. With the new rubber the old window cannot be installed.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/tt977lieb/P1010648_zpsbp7szr1v.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/3xpgoeoab/P1010649_zpsdyp64v9w.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Nevertheless, the new window was a little bit to tall. After cutting 5 mm from the lower lower edge (the upper edge fitted perfectly, the lower not) it looks quite good.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/6rsm1uy6b/P1010655_zpsybvvat7b.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Maybe I have to remove one further millimeter from the lower edge to install the piping.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on May 25, 2016, 18:09:35
With a professional tool installing the piping is a task of minutes
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/86u6qqjvn/P1010658_zpstcxcixfi.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   So, the test was successful the window can be removed again.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on June 18, 2016, 13:12:48
The mounting brackets for the rear right lower wishbone were placed at a wrong place. There was a gap of 5 mm when the wishbone was mounted. I removed the front mounting bracket, built a new one and now everything is fine.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/wakyf2kcz/P1010668_zpsglhvm70x.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/csqaz4nf3/)
   
   The construction of the front lower wishbone is sub-optimial, at least for my examples. In the past water was collected in the stiffening plate resulting into a lot of rust. Also in the past there was a bad attempt to repair this but I guess the person tried to do this without disassembling the wishbone.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/3ky2if8n7/P1010660_zpshln5s717.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/wakyf2cn3/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/qmeno60kz/P1010661_zpsallaaqap.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/vl262p4dr/)
   
   I removed the complete stiffening plate and built a new one.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/t3qevfcrn/P1010662_zpspglkb1rx.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/se7mj3737/P1010663_zpskcs45dog.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/gcc8p15lf/P1010672_zpsra4tovhw.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   I think the old design wasn't bad. What was missing was a little drain hole.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/wncclcpsz/P1010673_zpsfkeiio3g.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on July 20, 2016, 19:52:20
The wall behind the seats was cut into two pieces in the past. I guess in order to repair something on the rear left side.
   
   First step: cleaning
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/f1bdiureb/P1010714_zpsr0v8pezq.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   laminating
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/suzq7wc9v/P1010715_zpswr7exsu9.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   closing all the old holes
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/rfy5j63gz/P1010720_zpsjmmayyac.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   and finally painting
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/d9ienyngz/P1010721_zpsdfkljuyx.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/5tj525zrj/)
   
   Today, some parts arrived from powder coating. I love this look.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/eojzcogub/P1010725_zpsc2usukyn.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on August 01, 2016, 18:13:21
Start working with wood. Some wood parts in the hatch don't look good.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/3oys17nw3/P1010730_zpshvfx5uq5.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/66aj8h02r/P1010732_zps8iorugjm.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/t7r4e7zq7/)
   
   With the new struts:
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/7y3i3dyv7/P1010734_zps8k314l6d.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   I guess the purpose of this block of wood
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/olv05w1cj/P1010738_zpsvmz4e03y.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   is to provide some possibility to mount the hatch lock, right?
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/5tj52aa37/P1010739_zpsg5s9lmka.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/d9ieo2q2r/P1010740_zps7odjvggf.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on August 08, 2016, 19:09:56
Following the concept "why spending 1 hour for making a new wood block if I can do something similar out of aluminium in less than 10 hours" I made a new bracket for the hatch look.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/hin4qj3pf/P1010741_zps2gt3prgj.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/z8otbk1ur/P1010746_zpske2hbfmu.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/bugtzmjxb/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/b4y1n9r3n/P1010744_zpspaqmgz54.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Maybe, that's an explanation why my timeline went a little bit into pieces. I wanted to use the car for the first school day of my daughter. That day was today  :o
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on August 10, 2016, 08:48:52
Stripping the doors. As expected they are in a bad condition.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/flsfdjpbn/P1010753_zps8x3fcfll.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/uhqyl9b1v/P1010755_zps8teqxqdp.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   I found my chassis number. These doors really belong to the car.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/7hkb8okv7/P1010756_zpsiuz7sebo.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: Wolfy on August 15, 2016, 23:34:45
Excellent work very inspirational.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on August 22, 2016, 16:47:43
I think the lower part of the door frame has a conceptional problem. The lower stabiliser is covered from below with a aluminium u-section. Water entering the door flows into this u-section and the wood above soaks the water by capillarity. The result is rot.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/uj0wenaar/P1010777_zps7wvoajdh.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/c4qda830j/P1010778_zpszrmecbhv.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   The lower stabiliser is definitely not repairable but the front panel can be repaired.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/p8vxn2neb/P1010779_zpsvr9flye9.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   I used the wood from the door sill which was replaced by a steel construction.
   
   The result:
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/p8vxn8ng3/P1010782_zpsprpepryv.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/tw1zon0er/P1010784_zpshprapi7b.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on August 26, 2016, 16:43:41
The surgeon would call this a chip fracture.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/nv4arsyfn/P1010785_zps6irojoul.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/pa5vgizin/)
   
   But with a two component epoxy wood glue one can repair (nearly) everything.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/okn3496pv/P1010786_zpsmk8dsjnt.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/652m6uslb/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/tjaliuv43/P1010787_zpsjzq92wef.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/dl1vsq0vz/)
   
   On the right side the repaired right door skeleton, on the left side the left door skeleton in it's unrepaired state. The lower strut is still missing on the right door.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/6hu0d6vhf/P1010788_zpseeeljgbr.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/qcg1zbaov/)
   
   The following pictures shows the lower door construction without the wood strut. One can see that the water entering the door cannot drain and the wood strut lays in this water.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/mhcnwa9eb/P1010798_zpsrflvo1ml.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/po77fwtu7/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on September 08, 2016, 14:32:39
I replaced the wood in the lower section by a 1.5 mm z-profile aluminium. Triangular brackets connect this with the wood structs.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/gt6d5i7nn/P1010822_zpsjd8sutms.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/8awx1614v/)
   
   Not to forget the drain holes.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/rg06azsoj/P1010826_zpssbdf5sqp.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/siactjbhr/)
   
   especially below the wood structs
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/6j3y6hf9v/P1010824_zpsorydrhi1.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/g3nktd4lr/)
   
   Since the wood is not attached with the ground of the aluminium profile I hope it will not drain water again.
   
   The old drain holes were not optimal. Be aware that this is the upper side.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/wfxmisler/P1010825_zpsxvcejnpr.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/lt3tddd9b/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on September 24, 2016, 14:11:01
Am I on the right way? The right door looks promising
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/dnlrfhjyb/P1010966_zps607hfguh.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/vdng0ixj3/)
   
   but the rear lower edge peers 3 cm
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/4324sshtf/P1010968_zps96cbt8p0.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/5i3phiiwf/)
   
   The left door was always problematic.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/jd1zzi81f/P1010969_zps4ixrlupa.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/bkbc7j227/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/hl914qefn/P1010970_zps3bz3lpli.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/g67gg0dcf/)
   
   Still a lot to do.
Title: BE 646
Post by: minimans on September 25, 2016, 06:47:48
That's looking good but I wouldn't try for the perfect fit till it's on it's wheels, the frame and body will always move a bit when it's got the full weight on the ground.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on September 25, 2016, 10:04:46
quote:
Originally posted by minimans
   
That's looking good but I wouldn't try for the perfect fit till it's on it's wheels, the frame and body will always move a bit when it's got the full weight on the ground.
   

   
   That's a good advice. I made this mistake during my first project (a cobra replica http://accobra.npage.de/ac-cobra.html). A perfect alignment of the doors while the car was on the lifter but as soon as it was on its wheels the doors couldn't be closed. I nearly forgot this. Thank you for remembering [:)]
Title: BE 646
Post by: wenzeh on September 26, 2016, 09:00:04
Peter,
   
   I would be surprised if that lower outboard gap should disappear when car is on it's wheels... as you will get bending on the frame, that should not give a 3 cm outboard movement at all.  I have never seen such thing, in fact, I would be very concerned driving such car.  In addition you did reinforce the tubes to minimize bending.
   On the other hand if that theory would be correct, don't paint the car as long it is not on wheels...otherwise paint will fall off when panels will be stressed / deformed by 3cm ;-)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on October 18, 2016, 14:00:10
With some slight modification at the lower connection points the gap could be reduced to less than 1 cm. The final fitting will be done with the outer skin.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/6lnttd0xv/P1020076_zpsz8zik3pu.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/q3ih9b5lf/P1020078_zpsgqzr6ssz.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/xjhqv3tan/)
   
   On the left hand side was a 3 mm metal plate welded on the above hinge holder.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/obpieetyb/P1020082_zpshduj7igs.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/oogwklc7z/)
   
   After removing it the left door fits much better into the body.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/f3x9xqhr7/P1020079_zpsobvhovqg.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/7b6m5ujir/P1020081_zpsa3sjzfrw.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/cb42dceqb/P1020080_zpsuzdgwtez.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/sm469nr7z/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on December 01, 2016, 18:48:18
I am still working on the doors and it starts to bore me. But this is the time for a good fitting. If everything is finished and painted it must fit, no chance to make changes then.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/5xezab7c3/P1020158_zpsm2ffppi0.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/syvkg7rlv/P1020159_zpsqwdl4s8o.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   and the other side
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/ajb3ivin7/P1020160_zpstkm98crf.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/i0kaxmibn/P1020161_zps3ixynnro.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Yesterday, both front side window frames lay side by side and I recognised for the first time that the handles are different. Does anybody know where I can buy these handles?
   
   [(https://s19.postimg.cc/5964r7gab/P1020162_zpsfgitoqp7.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: TTM on December 02, 2016, 09:45:19
Good morning,
   
   Very interesting work.
   
   Have you considered 3D-printing some structural parts instead of remaking them in wood?
   Plastic may not rot over time (!)
Title: BE 646
Post by: Klassik Metall on December 03, 2016, 13:17:19
Hi Peter,
   Good to see you are still making progress. I obtained a pair of brass castings for quarter light catches from the club spares scheme a couple of years ago. Hopefully there are still some left if you make contact. They are the same type as shown on the right hand frame in your photo.
   
   Regards Luke.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on December 03, 2016, 16:51:27
quote:
Originally posted by TTM
   
Good morning,
   
   Very interesting work.
   
   Have you considered 3D-printing some structural parts instead of remaking them in wood?
   Plastic may not rot over time (!)
   

   
   Thomas,
   
   yes, I thought already about 3D printing but to my view the wood construction for the door is fine since it's strong and flexiable as long as the water in the door can drain. The problematic section is the lower strut and I replaced that one by aluminium.
   
   Below the windscreen pillar is a pice of wood. Maybe that's a good candidate for some 3D-printing.
   
   Peter
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on December 15, 2016, 14:14:58
Now, it's time for the annual christmas riddle. As usual the first (and only) price is a cup of tea to be picked up in my garage.
   
   The question is: what have these two cars in common?
   
   (http://downtownmotorcarsales.com/pics/ac-aceca-bristol-coupe-restoration-loaded-very-nice-crave-luxury-auto-2.JPG)(http://www.classicandsportscar.ltd.uk/images_catalogue/large/alvistc21%20004_7149.jpg)
   
   One clue: "both are old engish cars" is not the answer I am looking for. Happy riddling [:)]
Title: BE 646
Post by: wenzeh on December 19, 2016, 15:02:16
The door handle....I would say
Title: BE 646
Post by: Flyinghorse on December 19, 2016, 16:35:31
Both (models off) ran in the Monte Carlo Rallye  is a possibility.
   
   Both had 100bhp rated engines assuming its a Alvis TC21 grey lady
   
   Many lucas parts would be interchangeable and the Aerial looks the same.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on December 19, 2016, 18:39:08
Thank you for participating. I guess both answers are correct but I was looking for something different.
   
   Yes, the Alvis is a TC21/100 lady grey and the Aceca has the same quarter light catches. I got a pair from https://www.chrisprince.co.uk/parts/ (https://www.chrisprince.co.uk/parts/) and they fit perfectly:
   
   (up and mounted: the new pair, down: the "mixed" old pair)
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/t2pdwcuhf/P1020170_zpsbk6tir4x.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: Flyinghorse on December 19, 2016, 19:58:48
The wheel rims also look very similar
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on January 10, 2017, 13:05:27
New year, old task: the doors.
   
   I added an adjustable strut connecting the rear lower edge of the door with the upper front corner.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/5ohekg7f7/P1020176_zpswakfmqr8.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
   
   Without adjusting the right door shows a different profile than the rear wing.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/q8m8iy2lv/P1020180_zpsvsziposp.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/e6quostdb/)
   
   Tightening the adjuster makes the curve much better.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/49ftvqthf/P1020177_zpsmovowidy.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/d4go69i9r/)
Title: BE 646
Post by: Wolfy on June 09, 2017, 12:14:09
Any updates on this great thread?
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on June 09, 2017, 14:21:54
quote:
Originally posted by Wolfy
   
Any updates on this great thread?
   

   
   No, unfortunately not. I had to interrupt this project for another one with higher priority: the restoration of an row house built in the beginning of the 70th. Sounds like a boring thing but you cannot reach the house by car. Everything must be hauled first by ship then by trolleys. That's a really interesting way to burn money.
   
   I removed ca. 5 tonne of building rubble with a cycle trailer. Some kind of tour de force [:)]
   
   But that project is nearly over. The holidays will be spend with decorating and I guess in autumn I'll be back on this project.
Title: BE 646
Post by: Wolfy on June 21, 2017, 10:34:30
Ahh fair enough, does sound like a bigger project.  Good luck with that.  At least its free exercise moving the rubble :)
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on June 21, 2017, 18:11:02
A new problem arose. Yesterday, I had the oppotunity to drive the E-Up. This little e-car from Volkswagen. The car was fully charged and told me that I can drive 120+ km. First, I switched off the air conditioning. The result was a driving range prediction of 151 km. I drove 80 km through town and country roads and a little bit motorways. At the end the prediction was still 70 km. Summarizing it up it was totally fun to drive this little car. The acceleration was breath taking (like the price for this car).
   
   This moring at breakfast I had a discussing with my family and I make the case that I can imagine that in 10 to 11 years when my daughter will make her driving licence she will do it on an e-car. Her immediate reaction was that I should put an e-motor into the Aceca so she can drive it when she is old enough.
   
   What should I do now [:I]?
Title: BE 646
Post by: TTM on June 21, 2017, 18:50:19
Sell the daughter and buy a Bristol powertrain.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on August 17, 2017, 12:32:27
After such a long time it is hard to re-start this project again. So, I bought a little gadget for the Aceca: a grease gun
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/rkhgyi90j/P1020907.jpg) (http://"https://postimg.org/image/xy6k1rdwf/")
   
   I think it has the correct number:
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/74b1u0o4j/P1020909.jpg) (http://"https://postimg.org/image/sqq2b1mov/")
   
   After cleaning and painting:
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/q6pu379r7/P1020910.jpg) (http://"https://postimg.org/image/w7nj09wdb/")
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/amigcnzmr/P1020911.jpg) (http://"https://postimg.org/image/a9r26hhcv/")
   
   And the best: it's really working. Now, the metal work can be started [:D]
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on August 24, 2017, 17:22:56
New inside door panels
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/shjkquy3n/P1020914.jpg) (http://"https://postimg.org/image/rf9e8bfa7/")
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/tijtfzf37/P1020915.jpg) (http://"https://postimg.org/image/j8hegqp7j/")
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on September 14, 2017, 19:18:50
Something for the safety: mounting brackets for the safety belts.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/ghqhao7fn/P1020941.jpg) (http://"https://postimg.org/image/cld5eomfz/")
   
   In the car:
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/hlalmms2r/P1020943.jpg) (http://"https://postimg.org/image/56ntmb0kf/")
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/dq77k28wz/P1020944.jpg) (http://"https://postimg.org/image/4v6d9jk4f/")
   
   and with seats:
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/vcf2ouh0j/P1020947.jpg) (http://"https://postimg.org/image/umwachggv/")
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/lwz7bmyzn/P1020949.jpg) (http://"https://postimg.org/image/6bhvron1b/")
   
   Yes, I also drilled holes for the seat runners. It's a five minute job to do this but it takes hours to find the right position. You can see on the last picture that the seats are not parallel to the car. A forward shift moves the seat to the outer side. This allows a maximal free moving space. So everybody between 1,60m and 1,90m should find a good position behind the steering wheel.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on September 22, 2017, 16:25:17
Maybe it helps if I share my frustrations. Yesterday and today I worked on a new transmission tunnel. It would be nice in aluminium. Not the final result but a big step:
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/arhfsefmr/P1020956.jpg) (http://"https://postimg.org/image/3o9kcsa73/")
   
   After a check in the car with the driver seat I detected that it is impossible to shift the seat forwards. I need a complete different tunnel with a mush more organic shape. Nothing, I can do with aluminium.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on October 26, 2017, 07:55:28
The old floor panels are decayed.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/fwvtbl05v/P1020972.jpg) (http://"https://postimg.org/image/a8pikovtb/")
   
   Here are the new ones, finished with all holes needed fo the seats, fasteners and safety belt lugs.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/5a2065ckz/P1020973.jpg) (http://"https://postimg.org/image/k60jdqnzj/")
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/c0ihfkkb7/P1020974.jpg) (http://"https://postimg.org/image/yp7of51ov/")
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/jt957j34z/P1020975.jpg) (http://"https://postimg.org/image/c0ihfjx5r/")
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/g9n7htfvn/P1020980.jpg) (http://"https://postimg.org/image/7emd7ar33/")
   
   I don't know what kind of car used my transmission cover but it is heavy (5,3 kg), ugly and it doesn't fit the top-loader transmission:
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/u21mdw9cj/P1020976.jpg) (http://"https://postimg.org/image/i068jr03z/")
   
   As I wrote in my last post the try to make a new transmission cover was not successful.
   
   So next try:
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/cejtf5h9f/P1020962.jpg) (http://"https://postimg.org/image/kwt9jhnrz/")
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/wlx97gmgj/P1020964.jpg) (http://"https://postimg.org/image/mbuu87wkv/")
   
   This fits but unfortunately it looks like it was made by a Mr. Stone, Frank N. I used it as a mould for a glass fibre solution:
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/v6voir0sz/P1020966.jpg) (http://"https://postimg.org/image/4ykjtdgpb/")
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/wyondnzlf/P1020967.jpg) (http://"https://postimg.org/image/ogf79bt2n/")
   
   The new transmission cover has a total weight of 1,2 kg.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/odvbn0kfn/P1020977.jpg) (http://"https://postimg.org/image/rxh9ctn5b/")
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/nbl54hwhf/P1020970.jpg) (http://"https://postimg.org/image/9uo6lmm5r/")
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/oqmpt6uzn/P1020971.jpg) (http://"https://postimg.org/image/z0p4sfkv3/")
Title: BE 646
Post by: bbrown on October 27, 2017, 03:42:15
The fit and finish of the fiberglass tunnel looks very nice!
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on November 17, 2017, 17:15:56
Daddy got a new toy: a strecher/shrinker from far east. Although it is a quite cheap part it works.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/xqvbeqmur/P1020984.jpg) (http://"https://postimg.org/image/5dztoa14f/")
   
   This tool should help to make new panels for the boot. The old panels are scrap.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/s2p0nw88j/P1020985.jpg) (http://"https://postimg.org/image/j7o6ddjfz/")
   
   The stretcher/shrinker is necessary for the bending of the upright panel:
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/sfgeu8qk3/P1020986.jpg) (http://"https://postimg.org/image/wol4wettb/")
   
   Here is the result:
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/ntkalrmzn/P1020987.jpg) (http://"https://postimg.org/image/6t1ed39y7/")
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/browrmlgz/P1020989.jpg) (http://"https://postimg.org/image/3yy8znfhr/")
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/pld9gm8wj/P1020988.jpg) (http://"https://postimg.org/image/dw99snhxr/")
   
   The new panel has the same size as the old one
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/4oh1byy0z/P1020990.jpg) (http://"https://postimg.org/image/ss7t09ghr/")
   
   although the curve is a little bit wide
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/yt5hx9337/P1020991.jpg) (http://"https://postimg.org/image/6ga06shcv/")
   
   But it fits the new lower panel:
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/9ad5kdwfn/P1020992.jpg) (http://"https://postimg.org/image/3yy8zoacv/")
   
   Well, I am satisfy especially when I think about my skills bending metal at the beginning of the project [xx(]
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/xe3x8ouc3/P1020994.jpg) (http://"https://postimg.org/image/ch7p40wb3/")
Title: BE 646
Post by: nikbj68 on November 18, 2017, 10:40:57
Wow. Superb craftsmanship!
Title: BE 646
Post by: bobbylangley on November 18, 2017, 11:00:20
This car will be better than it ever was leaving the factory, hats off to you and your skills.
Title: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on November 21, 2017, 16:02:14
Checking whether the panels also fit inside the car.
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/udhlz5ij7/P1020998.jpg) (http://"https://postimg.org/image/iodmb6rkf/")
   
   Enough space for the spare wheel:
   
   (https://s19.postimg.cc/69quaukmr/P1020999.jpg) (http://"https://postimg.org/image/4up9m4jjj/")
Title: BE 646
Post by: Wolfy on December 05, 2017, 08:51:00
Great work, great updates.
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on January 23, 2018, 17:42:27
I am still working on the boot panels.

It's always quite exciting when you worked for a quite long time making a panel and you have to drill a big fat hole into it.

(https://s19.postimg.cc/8i12pq6oz/P1030004.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/vjhnvh6cf/)

If you don't know the exact place and if it doesn't fit perfectly, your only choice is to make it even bigger. This has happened in the past with the original panel. Maybe due to the fact that the new patrol tank has the filler at a different place or has a difference angle.

(https://s19.postimg.cc/amlfqt0lv/P1030006.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/wlrue0hfz/)

But I think I managed it this time with my first try.

(https://s19.postimg.cc/7fqw768g3/P1030005.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/o3ie9o37j/)
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on January 29, 2018, 16:51:38
My definition of "attention to details": "solving problems which don't really exist with a huge amount of energy".

The rear upper panel of the boot was riveted to a cross tube. In the past this cross tube was rotted from inside to outside because water entered this tube by the rivets. So I hope that my brackets will prevent this.

(https://s19.postimg.cc/gsbwodc0j/P1030008.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/j9nnvmvwv/)

(https://s19.postimg.cc/5fzb6lir7/P1030010.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/65i3iyjan/)

And from the backside. There are also the holes for the rivets fixing the GRP driver cabin back wall.

(https://s19.postimg.cc/um09dfcbn/P1030011.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/su7aiisyn/)
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on February 16, 2018, 15:57:10
Before christmas I started with the overhauling of the seat runners. I guess that power coating wouldn't hold out for a quite long time so I tried something new: black zinc-coating

(https://s19.postimg.cc/uoox6bsvn/P1030038.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/hxaqztj3j/)

and for the handles just a normal re-chroming

(https://s19.postimg.cc/zal1eom4j/P1030042.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/5inyzhzb3/)
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on February 19, 2018, 17:06:23
And some more brackets

(https://s19.postimg.cc/6xj7g0eir/P1030045.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/uoiky4epr/)

to fix the wall behind the seats

(https://s19.postimg.cc/fsk1qjb0z/P1030047.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/eq9v7zs7j/)
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on April 21, 2018, 13:31:11
I think the new boot panels are finished. Here are the old ones:

(https://s19.postimg.cc/jsu6x379f/P1030215.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/59n1voe4f/)


and the new panels

(https://s19.postimg.cc/ccuxb86oj/P1030233.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/mmxcagwjz/)

and installed in the boot

(https://s19.postimg.cc/jsu6x123n/P1030219.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/j3beko1jz/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/3ulh6xpw3/P1030220.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/c03j53e4v/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/ryc8v8g2r/P1030221.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/ccuxba44f/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/i11824qgj/P1030222.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/x9r5fwk4v/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/al1ygev2b/P1030225.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/71g0qlscf/)

New brackets for the safety belts

(https://s19.postimg.cc/kicz9gfir/P1030232.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/usfe8p5e7/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/mmxcaj1pv/P1030227.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/jsu6x2zjj/)
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on August 21, 2018, 07:01:51
I'am back. The intermediate project is nearly finished and I plan to do more on this car again. To make this project a little bit more complex I bought a new engine two weeks before.

(https://s19.postimg.cc/6lwszcr9f/P1030471.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/6yo75j9j3/)

(https://s19.postimg.cc/av1j1if37/P1030472.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/sl37mjsnz/)

Yes, it is a complete but quite rusty Ford Zephyr MK II inline six (206E) engine. Unfortunately, it didn't turn. That's not a good sign but hey there are not so many Ford Zephyrs here in Germany. You have to take what you get.

Opening the valve cover was quite promising on the first look.

(https://s19.postimg.cc/us7gael2r/P1030498.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/fw8x2t9nz/)

(https://s19.postimg.cc/f6q4qfe9f/P1030497.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/pgsjpo44v/)

But after removing the head the horror began.

(https://s19.postimg.cc/bacsug0zn/P1030503.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/oeid74t1b/)

(https://s19.postimg.cc/savp34lqr/P1030508.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/4wnpr73tb/)

All pistons were stucked. I could remove four of them without problems. The one which looked so bad could be removed with some more force. The pistons which looked best made the most problems. While removing it the cylinder sleeve came out.

(https://s19.postimg.cc/5m6i3iemr/P1030536.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/wwrtbfhjj/)

(https://s19.postimg.cc/qj2q864xv/P1030537.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/6ogom1pq7/)

After that I could separate the piston from the liner.

(https://s19.postimg.cc/snn399m03/P1030539.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/fw8x2rc7z/)

I believe the main problem of the engine was a bad service. I guess no one made an oil change but just refilled oil when the engine had to less. In the oil sump was oil mud and the oil filter of the oil pump was opaque.

(https://s19.postimg.cc/9vb85oxbn/P1030518.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/z1c6ciylr/)

(https://s19.postimg.cc/fw8x2rzdf/P1030517.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/p415jh6fj/)

Now I am looking for spare parts and/or an expert who can rebuild the engine. Any advice?
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on August 24, 2018, 18:29:44
Disassembling the head. Most of the rockers were stucked.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/esvotee83/P1030542.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/s9snc9ojj/)

(https://s19.postimg.cc/6ndmv8xoz/P1030543.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/vtel22yz3/)

(https://s19.postimg.cc/awicxelir/P1030544.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/7cwf7lisv/)

Two valves were heavily trapped that only a 12 ton press removed them.

(https://s19.postimg.cc/9u86ew5ab/P1030545.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/x8g5qtn7j/)

(https://s19.postimg.cc/461vnzt83/P1030546.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/ha7g0ol9r/)

(https://s19.postimg.cc/lw3k90z37/P1030547.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/7pntdso7z/)

But I think the head can be restored.
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: taffe9 on August 24, 2018, 20:57:03
Gosh those engine pics. look a bit grim! I have the remains of a couple 206e engines around the workshop after a number of Aceca projects & a few new spares in boxes eg a new old stock set of conrods, oil filter adaptor for canister filters etc. Let me know if I can help.
The engine itself is very basic in design & judging by the quality of the work you have achieved so far you should have no problem rebuilding one yourself.
Regards
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on September 04, 2018, 18:14:42
Hi taffe9,

did you get my pm? I am quite interested in the spare parts you have.

Kind regards,

Peter
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on September 14, 2018, 16:29:51
The old flywheel, friction plate and clutch cover.

(https://s19.postimg.cc/mibgikgr7/P1030560.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/e020e8a8f/)

The previous owner didn't change the friction plate when the time was right for the job. The result was a bare friction plate and deep rills in the pressure plate.

(https://s19.postimg.cc/hjny42fj7/P1030562.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/4s9rxk5r3/)

After cleaning the flywheel it looks quite promising.

(https://s19.postimg.cc/6wu4ymzo3/P1030563.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/kdr3hi9zj/)

(https://s19.postimg.cc/ff3l2yygz/P1030564.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/42qzl6prz/)

The new friction plate

(https://s19.postimg.cc/ub24ajug3/P1030565.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/5hsk9wbfj/)

and the new old stock clutch cover

(https://s19.postimg.cc/iypissoc3/P1030566.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/b5yv0ticv/)

Checking whether the gear box will work with the friction plate and the engine. It's a Ford Type 9 gear box. This is quite cheap, has five gears and the best Quaife produces a heavy duty version of this. One can never know whether this will be necessary  :o.

(https://s19.postimg.cc/qeoseju0z/P1030568.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/vq3oz9g3j/)

Oh no, a modern five speed gear box! Yes, a little bit hot rodding must be allowed. It was a far way for me to drop the V8 plan ...
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on September 21, 2018, 08:46:07
The new engine / gearbox combination is much longer than the 289 with the toploader transmission.

(https://i.postimg.cc/Y934wZv6/P1030580.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MMnZ7sbH)

but it is so slim

(https://i.postimg.cc/2y9V1WF3/P1030579.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/SY8y5JPp)

What should I do with all the space in the engine bay I got now?


(https://i.postimg.cc/qqvNBwK9/P1030583.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/sQbjwpwc)

(https://i.postimg.cc/B6s8k4nZ/P1030585.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/v1qH6RnC)

Of course, new problems arise. The type 9 gearbox hits with its mounting point exact the cross strut. This must be modified. And the position of the gear lever is much too far rear. This must also be modified and I have to make a complete new transmission tunnel  >:(

(https://i.postimg.cc/mZmcpxfR/P1030586.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MXjKXFpr)

(https://i.postimg.cc/Pq1pSPhF/P1030587.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qtMvRBN8)
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: AE 501 on September 24, 2018, 12:28:18
.....and if you start producing a small batch of gearbox tunnels, please remeber to do one for me an my AC engined Ace  ;D 8)

And be happy about your tube in tube solution! 2.6 Aceca's should have a thicker tube wall I think. So well done  ;)
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: B.P.Bird on September 25, 2018, 15:21:14
Quote
What should I do with all the space in the engine bay I got now?

Install 100D 762 and a BWCR 12 ?
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on February 11, 2019, 14:36:51
I am still alive and sometimes I am working on this project. The new gearbox doesn't need so much space as the Ford Toploader so it's time to close the bulge in the footbox:
(https://i.postimg.cc/gJdRbbKK/P1030622.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Jy6tjgvy)
(https://i.postimg.cc/nzkmHSRf/P1030623.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qhNqwwH1)
(https://i.postimg.cc/nrhDMKgj/P1030624.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MMgTFBWq)rl]
Finally, I got the right rubbers for the front side windows:
(https://i.postimg.cc/xCtkrJ80/P1030682.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/2bLjh5nJ)
The top rear end of the doors hides some wood:
(https://i.postimg.cc/KjCBVkp1/1960-AC-Aceca-Blue-11.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
this is the look without the aluminium skin:
(https://i.postimg.cc/bNH1LJHw/P1030684.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/GHtBmb5W)

(https://i.postimg.cc/qMd88nKF/P1030685.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/14JnS8J0)

I removed the wood and made a new piece out of aluminium:
(https://i.postimg.cc/5yWFSdXz/P1030686.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bDLJq5HY)

(https://i.postimg.cc/NF82NJXz/P1030688.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zHBfvk0C)

The result can be covered by the aluminium skin:
(https://i.postimg.cc/bwVDF2Gp/P1030694.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5Xv2XyqR)

(https://i.postimg.cc/FKfdtscc/P1030695.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hJBPTn2P)

(https://i.postimg.cc/MGhcz2bL/P1030696.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/f3fWvPP7)

Since the new gear box is smaller the foot panels need different sizes. So, making new food panels:
(https://i.postimg.cc/3JcYsjZS/P1030701.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rKxBWr3x)
This time I used the right aluminium: AW1050. Normally, I use AW5754 which you can buy at every corner. The problem is that only AW1050 can be formed with hand and hammer. The difference between the old solution:
(https://i.postimg.cc/TYzYyqWy/P1030703.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3dZHVG17)
and the new one is clear.
(https://i.postimg.cc/fRYWYtx8/P1030704.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BjQG0v7F)

Fired by this success I decided to make the side panels of the boot again. The last time they were made of 1.0 mm AW5754, this time 1.2 mm AW1050.

(https://i.postimg.cc/cCVZn06q/P1030705.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gLqf99v4)

(https://i.postimg.cc/DfD7Dd6C/P1030706.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/nM489m67)

The fitting in the curves is much better.
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on February 18, 2019, 13:18:37
The old and the new rear inner wings:
(https://i.postimg.cc/d3rkcFnQ/P1030717.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/1VR5DLLb)
and mounted
(https://i.postimg.cc/C1ZnJkqq/P1030718.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/R6B0Z3GS)
(https://i.postimg.cc/DwFsFSt9/P1030719.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/sv614gfm)
and the other side
(https://i.postimg.cc/Xvjv1FTv/P1030720.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zyQ5VLDm)
(https://i.postimg.cc/3wfDgndh/P1030721.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/wtJvz5X4)
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on March 08, 2019, 07:56:40
The old inner fender for the front wheels:
(https://i.postimg.cc/qRHrZ7mP/P1030722.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gws1xGbs)

(https://i.postimg.cc/BvKsgFC5/P1030723.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gwmfcnQr)

and the new ones
(https://i.postimg.cc/4dGCQSyZ/P1030745.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/KK0sZQts)
The old mesh will be replaced by a panel
(https://i.postimg.cc/GhmCfVQm/P1030747.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WtCCF9CB)
Mounted in the front wheel arch

(https://i.postimg.cc/N0mqTcgp/P1030748.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/GBL5w6Ty)
(https://i.postimg.cc/gktWbsSq/P1030749.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/N5XV16w5)
(https://i.postimg.cc/9Q4jm9s3/P1030750.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zy1QpyJp)
(https://i.postimg.cc/wvQCfQRN/P1030751.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LYhQhfT4)
The old spare wheel cover
(https://i.postimg.cc/MK3v3y1g/P1030730.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/mtMLt1XS)

(https://i.postimg.cc/2S3BCHzz/P1030731.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/w18BVQyP)

was hold together only by the carpet
(https://i.postimg.cc/50J0QpMQ/P1030752.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Z9fZ18nJ)
The new cover is made of aluminium and it's not heavier
(https://i.postimg.cc/v83BDW2D/P1030753.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JtHm2BLW)

(https://i.postimg.cc/brCNMhS1/P1030754.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zHhrb4jf)

(https://i.postimg.cc/4N0xQXgg/P1030755.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LnzSHK5C)

(https://i.postimg.cc/D0ywBZ02/P1030756.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/sQqz2358)

(https://i.postimg.cc/65qQZyFc/P1030757.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/w7KH8TqR)

Maybe you noticed the hinges are the old ones. So, not everything is new  :)
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on March 25, 2019, 18:48:31
Ford Zephyr conrods (NOS) before
(https://i.postimg.cc/dQWzQvsN/P1030759.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/vDVPXJ65)
and after
(https://i.postimg.cc/T1HStjNv/P1030760.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BPHM6FGm)
shot-peening. I can't see the big difference but I hope it made the conrods a little bit stronger. Maybe it is like homoeeopathy:  you have to believe ...
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on August 27, 2019, 13:01:52
I have two valve trains and I try to find the best looking parts to make one which is ok:
(https://i.postimg.cc/PrHbZ62N/P1030809.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ThkWvc8X)

(https://i.postimg.cc/90dGKTFW/P1030811.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4H37hY9M)
After I received the engine back from the work shop I painted it black:
(https://i.postimg.cc/02t6QZ4T/P1040030.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/F7LFCbNp)

(https://i.postimg.cc/X7NG4tsK/P1040033.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/s18DJHd1)
Time to install the missing parts. The mechanical fuel pump will be replaced by an electric version, the adapter allows to use modern oil filters.

(https://i.postimg.cc/nh8yvfNB/P1040036.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/GHQgCVLm)
Overhauled waterpump with new connection pipe and time chain cover:
(https://i.postimg.cc/52wZgkMG/P1040040.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MnpPK5Hb)

Normally, the oil pump is screwed by two bolts to the engine block.
(https://i.postimg.cc/k5MRXzMP/P1040037.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bZMwm62m)
Something to feed my paranoia: the lock wire should prevent the bolts from releasing.

(https://i.postimg.cc/G2V4KpFb/P1040038.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/S2LQNk1P)

The poor condition of the valve train is normal for the Zephyr engines due to a bad oil supply.

(https://i.postimg.cc/1thxKh8L/P1030499.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jWXks1QX)
A new construction using fittings from Earl should improve the oil supply.
(https://i.postimg.cc/d1BWZzrR/P1040045.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/phmQgc0y)

(https://i.postimg.cc/43p2sK3S/P1040046.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/GBhxjmGF)

(https://i.postimg.cc/9MV8MWRF/P1040049.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/sB69HC4t)

Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on September 13, 2019, 18:40:10
Together with the Zephyr MK iii engine I got a set of SU HD6 with electic choke.
(https://i.postimg.cc/k45xnmq1/P1030816.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/KKdKNCKB)
I sent them to Burlen for a complete overhauling. Not cheap but the result is quite impressive:
(https://i.postimg.cc/hPmV4MRB/P1040069.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hfSXpLGy)

(https://i.postimg.cc/cLNwvYd8/P1040070.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rKQKbD08)

Mounted on the old engine to check space in the car:
(https://i.postimg.cc/GpLDQC8L/P1040071.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tsc7q8Nw)

(https://i.postimg.cc/T3qmgwPN/P1040072.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QFCHrj1c)
Oh, the first carburettor looks out. I have to check this with the bonnet  on the car.
(https://i.postimg.cc/7ZDmTb4b/P1040075.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/F7WjMr7Q)
Not much space but should be ok. And enough space for the accelerator pedal.

(https://i.postimg.cc/7Ljz0QzX/P1040076.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/sB91RmwZ)
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on September 17, 2019, 12:38:06
I decided to use a relative modern transmission: a Ford type 9 from a Sierra. It's a 5 speed transmission, strong enough for the Ford Zephyr engine and the best: Quaife has a lot of parts to make it bullet prove just in case that it might not strong enough.
This transmission has the big advantage that the bolt pattern is nearly identical to the orginal transmission used in the Zephyr. Instead of 5 bolts only 4 are used and the yoke of the transmission case where it meets the bell housing is a little bit bigger. No problem if you have access to a modern CNC milling machine.
One speciality of the Type 9 transmission is that the selector shaft looks out of the transmission case  at the front. Thus the Sierra bell housing has a closely notch to take the selector shaft. It's not a problem to make a little piece of metall to use it as this notch but it is a problem to weld this to the bell housing since it is cast iron. Since there are no big forces working on this part it can be glued.
Here is the result:
(https://i.postimg.cc/vHRx1CwB/P1030893.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0rfyFWQR)

(https://i.postimg.cc/VLjrX4zF/P1030894.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hfttBLzJ)


(https://i.postimg.cc/2551RDhH/P1030899.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tsLqW8rP)

(https://i.postimg.cc/zfPVqckq/P1030900.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Z9pTcjgQ)
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: James Eastwood on September 24, 2019, 20:51:44
Keep going! It's always a pleasure to see these updates.
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on September 29, 2019, 13:56:31
Martin, the distributor doctor (http://www.distributordoctor.com/ (http://www.distributordoctor.com/)) overhauled my Lucas distributor

(https://i.postimg.cc/zff0K6jc/P1040100.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hXHLqCNL)
and converted it to electronic ignition from Pertronix:
(https://i.postimg.cc/DwnCy8bF/P1040102.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/1f70vRHY)
Together with a lot of small parts the ignition system is nearly finished.
(https://i.postimg.cc/3x1tyYgG/P1040101.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jDWHmV3q)
(https://i.postimg.cc/hPFy6CDX/P1040099.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QVbJWJWD)
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on October 30, 2019, 10:43:51
I got some engine parts back from powder coating. The valve cover
(https://i.postimg.cc/SQdzqdgJ/P1040121.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/V5SNWqQ8)
the brackets for the heater pipes and spark cables
(https://i.postimg.cc/m2r1r9nV/P1040122.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4nrxLYsh)
and the oil pane
(https://i.postimg.cc/nr3skVXv/P1040123.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/n9QcVJYz)
I weld a plug in for a oil temperatur sensor:
(https://i.postimg.cc/wBD7rQtx/P1040124.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3yJ84pCz)
Due to the new engine I had to modify the engine mounts (again). But I am sure that this was the last time so I dared to glue it onto the frame.
(https://i.postimg.cc/BvRBTgrq/P1040108.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Ny7XY1GV)
(https://i.postimg.cc/T16jSP2F/P1040109.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Q9fWKhTJ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/4ystPFBT/P1040113.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/1n7f5BkW)
(https://i.postimg.cc/jdTv3ML2/P1040112.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PN6mPzbn)
Mounted (and glued) with the engine brackets:
(https://i.postimg.cc/9Qr9L9tz/P1040115.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qNHgRzFd)
Gear box bracket:
(https://i.postimg.cc/PxhPnvZW/P1040126.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/kV1nx4TG)
(https://i.postimg.cc/x818cr6q/P1040128.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/47jsS0kT)
and a new propeller shaft:
(https://i.postimg.cc/Z5GWjM5D/P1040127.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Wd7p1SrM)
All together in the car:
(https://i.postimg.cc/FHp9kCJL/P1040153.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/k2VrkcsJ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/zG8zBY3N/P1040152.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/w748fPh4)
(https://i.postimg.cc/1XFmg9pm/P1040151.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/30K5VQSV)
(https://i.postimg.cc/50T9NHQK/P1040150.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xJGV61RL)
I had to learn that the flywheel of a Ford Zephyr MK iii engine has a bigger o.d. than the MK ii flywheel. Here you can see a MK ii flywheel mounted on a MK iii engine. The starter wheel doesn't gear into the tooth ring of the flywheel.
(https://i.postimg.cc/NMwrGzhr/P1040119.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/GBqpqzmc)
With the correct flywheel the fitting is much better.
(https://i.postimg.cc/9MtwDYVg/P1040120.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tZJ4fPsF)
It wasn't easy to get a MK iii flywheel but finally I got one. At this point I would like to thank June and John from Golden Day Parts (http://goldendaysparts.co.uk/ (http://goldendaysparts.co.uk/)). The helped me a lot with all of these Ford Zephyr parts.
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on November 04, 2019, 14:58:44
The floor panels got a rail at the transmission side in order to enforce the strength.
(https://i.postimg.cc/ydMHsnxf/P1040158.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jw49hHzN)
New gear box means new transmission tunnel. This time a full alluminium version.
(https://i.postimg.cc/G28CW6L8/P1040160.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/G8CVY7sd)
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on December 06, 2019, 15:02:52
The old radiator doesn't look good:
(https://i.postimg.cc/rF4XQ5bD/IMGP5602.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bsqBvSqP)
(https://i.postimg.cc/rpXpf8Qk/IMGP5618.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rDjcm2Bn)
The frame of the radiator is rotten:
(https://i.postimg.cc/GhdVJ6k5/P1040173.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/vD20Gq2r)
(https://i.postimg.cc/HkLNF5v0/P1040172.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/YhJ8W4Hj)
(https://i.postimg.cc/MZygBzjB/P1040171.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PN56ssyf)
I built a new frame

(https://i.postimg.cc/0QNrwVVM/P1040186.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/KKdZXDSx)
and the radiator was overhauled by a specialist. He added a thermostat switch and an outflow so I can change the cooling system to a closed version.
(https://i.postimg.cc/pdWLw0bG/P1040187.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xXZQH3dM)
In order to increase the effectiveness of the electric fan at low speed the fan is surrounded by a box:
(https://i.postimg.cc/pXcChSk8/P1040181.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/pp8z3qwX)
The air guild panels in front of the radiator must also be replaced:
(https://i.postimg.cc/FHPQktsj/P1040197.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QFWzvy7t)
The outlet for the fresh air is missing but this will not be a big issue.
(https://i.postimg.cc/15rSPnk7/P1040196.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/2VyM768n)
(https://i.postimg.cc/jdbTGQFJ/P1040195.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/yWv2R9BV)
(https://i.postimg.cc/4x4g34Zf/P1040194.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9rkS8hrK)
Title: !!
Post by: dkp_cobra on December 08, 2019, 16:22:10
The old panels covering the A-column.
(https://i.postimg.cc/t4fNZXfQ/P1040198.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Yv6WTwMb)

(https://i.postimg.cc/SsbLdgkg/P1040199.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/941qFt49)
And the new version.
(https://i.postimg.cc/W4k60BLD/P1040202.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QBjT3nMs)

(https://i.postimg.cc/W1t71D5w/P1040203.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZWtNfqtW)
These panels are quite special. Not due to their form but these were the last (!!!) panels I had to replace  :) :) :) . Well, there are still some critical areas at the body but this will not be my task but something for a professional.
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on December 20, 2019, 13:38:28
Last action for this year: I re-constructed the substructure of the side skirt. The old construction was two parted. A steel substructure and a aluminium cover.

(https://i.postimg.cc/P5FR4qxH/P1040205.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5XLg9bLK)

(https://i.postimg.cc/tgZmmHZx/P1040206.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CZ0NzX4h)

The new substructure is one parted steel ...

(https://i.postimg.cc/jdMgxjyf/P1040212.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QHWkSh4N)

(https://i.postimg.cc/SNS1b9Yq/P1040213.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/RqYLcNTb)

... and has a lip to to mount (maybe gluing)  the body to the substructure.
(https://i.postimg.cc/bwMmnFCN/P1040214.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WdGmLScQ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/QdRqCKCF/P1040216.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/NKkXPM1t)
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on December 23, 2019, 13:26:03
"exploded" Aceca
(https://i.postimg.cc/sDn2XRwq/P1040232.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zVgNt4mF)
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on January 14, 2020, 13:19:25
New year, new tasks. Let's make a striptease.
(https://i.postimg.cc/wBm5vxs8/P1040265.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/KKm3p2NJ)

(https://i.postimg.cc/8zsB2mpC/P1040268.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bZctbb2X)

Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on February 17, 2020, 15:07:18
The removed front body gives me the possibility to replace all the rotten tubes in the front section. First, making the replacement
(https://i.postimg.cc/wjcrpsfx/P1040284.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/v4Th7DwC)
then cutting the old parts
(https://i.postimg.cc/43fSNNq6/P1040285.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/K1WN0FZj)
It's unbelievable. The car stands since 8 years in my dry garage and there is still water in the tubes.
(https://i.postimg.cc/sDW8TL5h/P1040286.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/N5gpMpJs)
(https://i.postimg.cc/VkchpFFH/P1040287.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/1fJMNw2p)
And the final result
(https://i.postimg.cc/9Mqtc6mP/P1040291.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/vgb6zS6D)

(https://i.postimg.cc/fbyfr31r/P1040292.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/06gS6NkY)
Since I changed my planes concerning the engine from V8 to I6 I need a different approach for the exhaust pipes. I need a second hole for the dual flow exhaust muffler.
(https://i.postimg.cc/mkf3kmkv/P1040293.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/2bGLXF4G)
Here you can see the last two critical tubes
(https://i.postimg.cc/L6rSXf3z/P1040266-Pfeil.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Wh6CYdK3)
They are rotten in the front section
(https://i.postimg.cc/hjG6MP0D/P1040294.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zL9xGNM6)
(https://i.postimg.cc/kgmnsKR7/P1040295.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZCwtK9LQ)
It seems to be that in the past there was a desperate try to repair this section
(https://i.postimg.cc/6pfBmqCn/P1040296.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zy3mLJtG)
(https://i.postimg.cc/26XJtRH4/P1040297.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jwPZW9Y5)
On both sides
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZK3b6VRf/P1040300.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Mv6JS01R)
(https://i.postimg.cc/j2p1s6Y2/P1040301.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/n9122Dzf)
Now it is repaired without old screws inside
(https://i.postimg.cc/wv7HMkZQ/P1040303.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5YdDk8xX)
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on February 22, 2020, 14:26:43
New brackets for the front brake lines:
(https://i.postimg.cc/XqgQycqj/P1040304.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BPXxrF2k)
Some years ago during the disassembling of the car I recognised a deformed tube on the right side of the differential dome.

(https://i.postimg.cc/HWt2zzWH/IMGP6778.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jCLPdzJk)
I thought that some kind of accident damaged the tube and I repaired it that time. The repaired tube worked fine with the Jag E-Type differential I wanted to use. Now, with the Ford Zephyr 2.6 engine I will use the original ENV differential but it doesn't work. The right output flange hits exact this tube.
(https://i.postimg.cc/KvBgQvDT/P1040307.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MvZTpw4Z)
The problem was the upper bracket of the differential house. This had to be reallocated. I removed and installed the differential at least 5 to 10 times to find the right position. One gets the feeling that the car was build around the differential so it is not very funny to remove it.
(https://i.postimg.cc/FzgNdq0Y/P1040313.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/kR4kLT1C)
Now, I have the necessary space between the tube and the output flange on both sides.

(https://i.postimg.cc/Gp8RJ9kw/P1040314.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/R3B2vSsX)

(https://i.postimg.cc/L80R1jg3/P1040317.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/186LxnH8)
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on February 25, 2020, 18:40:07
I would like to make the front inner fender removeable. It has the advantage that work at the engine or front axle would be easier. The disadvantage is that the inner fender cannot be riveted to the tubes.
My idea was to drill the old rivet holes in the tube to a bigger diameter (8 mm) and to insert a 8 mm tube into the frame tube, welding everything and voila I can fix the inner fender with a 4 mm screw without fearing that the frame tube will be dent.
But welding eighteen mini-tubes of 20 mm length into the frame tube is a work for the moron. Well, at the end I managed it.
(https://i.postimg.cc/k5fH3ZBq/P1040318.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JyHxjpN2)

(https://i.postimg.cc/MTphnwhn/P1040320.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/wtnWrCxz)

(https://i.postimg.cc/zv9M2g3h/P1040322.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/H89BVjwW)
Checking whether everything still fits.
(https://i.postimg.cc/VvbZtk4k/P1040323.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/GTdjwrZW)

(https://i.postimg.cc/MZ4hphtG/P1040324.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3WXLLfsM)

(https://i.postimg.cc/bJrBzTtb/P1040325.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/47C5PpwN)

Making the battery tray was much more fun:
(https://i.postimg.cc/rwybnMwQ/P1040336.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/vcj3DR9V)
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on February 28, 2020, 16:08:44
Time to check whether the new exhaust system fits.
(https://i.postimg.cc/3RVXN1QD/P1040326.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/dkRkS81q)
After dented one of the crossbar the muffer fits fine. When I stripped the car many years ago I thought this was an accident. Today I know that this is necessary and all Acecas have these.

(https://i.postimg.cc/vHdnKcYM/P1040339.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/vD3Dg8xS)
I also have to check the clearance to the pedal box. Unfortunately, I don't have a working pedal box.
(https://i.postimg.cc/YSjLFF3N/P1040340.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/06RNRbhr)
In the middle you can see my old original pedal box cutted from the main tube. On the right side you see my original pedals already modified in a way that the bent is vice versa to a right-hand-drive car. On the left side is a pedal box of a 289 cobra. It's not my pedal box (and not my car  :( ).
But the 289 pedal box wouldn't fit. Well, at least not the pedals with their bent.
(https://i.postimg.cc/YSgkTqqK/P1040327.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/94Wv727J)
My pedals have a stronger curve after modification and this fits perfectly.
(https://i.postimg.cc/rygTBHcm/P1040334.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MXcgRdn2)
The space below the foot box is quite little but it should by ok.
(https://i.postimg.cc/3wg5nSn3/P1040331.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/v1HNmvJK)

(https://i.postimg.cc/tg0GdQdr/P1040332.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/yDTGBGb9)
So, the next task will be the construction of a new pedal box.
As expected the Aceca tank of a AC/Bristol car does't work together with a Zephyr 2.6 engine. The tailpipes hit the tank.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Px27RBZn/P1040335.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/wyRFt40w)
Without tank everything is fine.
(https://i.postimg.cc/dQNXmcw8/P1040342.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/z3W08MLB)
(https://i.postimg.cc/gkw7gt21/P1040341.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/2VDT6wvx)
Time to cut the left side of the tank.
(https://i.postimg.cc/2ShKDqvw/P1040343.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/6860VpM2)
And closing the tank. Leak test pending  ???
(https://i.postimg.cc/fT0Hc3HN/P1040347.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/YhMfkSKn)
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on April 16, 2020, 08:20:13
Due to the current situation it is not so easy to get parts and services. Nevertheless, I got my steel sheets for the pedal box from laser cutting finally.
(https://i.postimg.cc/y88w6Sw6/P1040408.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/56DPnj4D)

(https://i.postimg.cc/BQgrGC7w/P1040407.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/nCXR4qJv)
Welding all things together
(https://i.postimg.cc/hPgkwYsd/P1040410.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xqxpNtWf)
The (nearly) final box
(https://i.postimg.cc/Bb3Vr8T0/P1040421.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/2bHGvS9c)

(https://i.postimg.cc/1XKjs9BN/P1040422.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/RJNRTxjM)

and provisional installing

(https://i.postimg.cc/25PJx933/P1040424.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/yJyv1Pmz)

(https://i.postimg.cc/R03yKxSj/P1040427.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/SXhgb5zr)
Now, the box must be sand blasted and powder coated but this has to wait until times will be better.
At this place I would like to thank Hobo (https://www.acownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=837 (https://www.acownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=837)) for borrowing his pedal box.

The battery tray is also installed:
(https://i.postimg.cc/N018WdpK/P1040359.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jWSJf4VT)

(https://i.postimg.cc/Kzx7FtHJ/P1040358.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/KKp3D3FM)
Beside the pedal box I worked on the heater system. These are all the original parts I got with the car:
(https://i.postimg.cc/dQWRPkmj/IMGP5584.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/23ZLn5t1)
no heater, only a Y-pipe and an air intake. I bought a new heater and two air intake from a MGA to get fresh air on both sides of the car. Unfortunately, the diameter is much bigger than the original diameter of the Y-pipe.
(https://i.postimg.cc/yd1R2sDG/P1040350.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/TyshD8qj)

Time to build a new Y-pipe:
(https://i.postimg.cc/5yGFHzsc/P1040351.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jnHjmDVv)
(https://i.postimg.cc/4yn9NPbb/P1040354.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8fQ5ZhYj)

Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on April 16, 2020, 09:18:12
Finding the right position for the heater is easy as long as the engine is not in the car.
(https://i.postimg.cc/d01k9ngM/4.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/HrqkY0p3)
But with the engine in the right position is a game of millimeters.
(https://i.postimg.cc/MTfnCHWd/5.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/njZV7H9D)
(https://i.postimg.cc/VLQtcq0M/6.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/6TcqrG05)
(https://i.postimg.cc/YSs4DYwv/7.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/2qn8VqyY)
(https://i.postimg.cc/02sz49h0/12.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XXsNG6jr)
The first try of a mounting bracket was quite clumsy ...

(https://i.postimg.cc/02Yw5z74/3.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/w7Bv0Tf5)
... but the dimensions were right. So the next try was a light-weight aluminium version.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Vk40M2GB/2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hXzGRZqf)
(https://i.postimg.cc/PrQCsBjs/13.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0brk7Xjc)
I also had to fabricate all adapters to connect the hoses to the heater. Now, like the pedal box everything is waiting for sand blasting and powder coating.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Gm3HcqLB/14.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/mtqbj3FR)
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on May 03, 2020, 15:22:52
The last welding work at the frame: brackets for the muffler
(https://i.postimg.cc/sD7Kz56M/P1040429.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XpN9cB0W)

(https://i.postimg.cc/2Sxwbrfm/P1040430.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0zbmhgQH)
and flanges at the muffler

(https://i.postimg.cc/FRYgBSks/P1040431.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xJSzkcPW)

(https://i.postimg.cc/Jh4Qjv1X/P1040432.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PC9Zj6vf)
Mounting everything shows that there is not much space but it should be enough
(https://i.postimg.cc/dtjdn6Nj/P1040433.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/D8m8wrTS)
(https://i.postimg.cc/8zG4zs9t/P1040436.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3dLmLrKv)

(https://i.postimg.cc/QVGBS91P/P1040440.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/m1j2grdN)
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on June 09, 2020, 15:54:38
During the last weeks I tried to build an exhaust header. 

(https://i.postimg.cc/ryr47P7D/P1040441.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5jfjCn4J)
A dragster style is quite simple:
(https://i.postimg.cc/NMWH562G/P1040445.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Q9JtzWqv)

Welding all together:
(https://i.postimg.cc/x1xqXvWr/P1040556.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/RWtv8HSG)

(https://i.postimg.cc/mZCcmFFM/P1040557.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Wtpb3z8b)
(https://i.postimg.cc/DwZw3Wmx/P1040559.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BXr0xnTF)
Outside the car it looks like a funny music instrument:
(https://i.postimg.cc/QxqF3Gmd/P1040565.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/HVVYwNFq)
Looks better inside the car:
(https://i.postimg.cc/5tXyLHVX/P1040569.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Z9hJh50m)

(https://i.postimg.cc/pd3TZ2Wq/P1040570.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/McbqZJjQ)

(https://i.postimg.cc/Fzy7z2QG/P1040571.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/fSbwgqy0)

(https://i.postimg.cc/pT8dcgyx/P1040572.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/mzLRtpQ6)


Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on June 23, 2020, 16:09:12
At the bottom of the A-column a wood block shapes this area
(https://i.postimg.cc/yYwVNDTX/P1040581.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rKN6nF3K)
After removing both blocks they fell into pices. The left-hand-side devided into four and the right-hand-side into two plus one-hundred pices.
(https://i.postimg.cc/9F4mVdyQ/P1040588.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/6yXJfGHk)
I glued them together as good as it was possible but only the left one could be used as a pattern
(https://i.postimg.cc/g04F3j37/P1040603.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8FF0S1Kd)
Since I am not a wood person I was thinking about a aluminium solution using a rip model
(https://i.postimg.cc/nrNtMWqc/P1040604.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/y3hGbvfw)

(https://i.postimg.cc/RVnB2Mz3/P1040605.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WhjCkczj)

(https://i.postimg.cc/59rJPXDd/P1040606.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/23ngySz2)

(https://i.postimg.cc/wj8ppS6w/P1040607.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PP4cbVvD)
Looks a little bit strange but in place in the car it seems to work
(https://i.postimg.cc/k4h0hH1F/P1040608.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MMV3n98v)

(https://i.postimg.cc/vBBRhyzZ/P1040609.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/B8dwZdkr)

(https://i.postimg.cc/v8CB42YV/P1040610.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/pyYx7ZnW)

(https://i.postimg.cc/Y2v0qBH7/P1040611.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/fkhDBFyq)

(https://i.postimg.cc/J0f9RkWs/P1040612.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QKq6bVCD)


Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on June 26, 2020, 16:46:18
I got parts back from powder coating. Mainly small things for the heater:
(https://i.postimg.cc/PxMgWY5G/P1040623.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/47m2ZKcw)
So I could convert the standard Smith repo heater:
(https://i.postimg.cc/6qjFSKZY/P1040624.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/fSdHt6B9)

(https://i.postimg.cc/hvPHpvXX/P1040625.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/cg29JsMW)

(https://i.postimg.cc/05VgrY4D/P1040626.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XXB1zC4Y)
But also the pedal box came back from powder coating:
(https://i.postimg.cc/fLMFRyj8/P1040613.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/SXtVZyP9)

It is unbelievable how long it takes to assemble it.
(https://i.postimg.cc/tg3wbWP1/P1040615.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hJGpbJ2g)
(https://i.postimg.cc/hvj5VYYx/P1040616.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xJw526nT)

(https://i.postimg.cc/FzBnpZt6/P1040617.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/n9qkcqhK)

(https://i.postimg.cc/KYSwCJKS/P1040618.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/k2sTbNFf)

(https://i.postimg.cc/Mpjgshpm/P1040619.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/YvMX0Dgv)

Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on June 27, 2020, 15:49:55
Please have a look at the first page of this thread at the first and third post. David (https://www.acownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=28224) made an index and a table-of-content. A really helful and extensive work. Thank you David.
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: Aceca289 on June 28, 2020, 00:01:38
Thanks David for taking the time to create the new INDEX on the first page of this thread! Give it up to the new guy! (See Peter’s post just prior to this post on page 22 of this thread for more info)

AND

Thank You Peter for all your hard work over the years to take and post all those pics. What a great resource for all us Aceca owners to have an INDEX to find pics and descriptions of your many years of hard work restoring your Aceca. It’s so great to be able to see under the skin of an Aceca to know what one might be getting into prior to embarking on the journey. Thanks to David, now we can scroll to the page with the pictures we want to find easier.

John
AEX521
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on June 30, 2020, 15:55:54
The front disc brakes have some kind of dust cover.
(https://i.postimg.cc/d3vHcBcD/P1040596.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8JKBhL5V)
My plan was to clean these plates and to powder coating them. But after cleaning I had to determined that they reached the end of there life.
(https://i.postimg.cc/DzLPfXgG/P1040633.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QBNT0VvN)
(https://i.postimg.cc/gk2syrz9/P1040635.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/dDgGwsZn)
I made new plates from stainless steal and used the chance to revise the asymetry of the old plates:
(https://i.postimg.cc/4yJ5Sxp9/P1040637.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CBQkZYPh)
The new plates and the old one:
(https://i.postimg.cc/pTMkKZTk/P1040634.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/yJnFH00S)
looks better in mounting position:
(https://i.postimg.cc/9FgpLV0D/P1040636.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tYPWgKhb)
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: James Eastwood on July 08, 2020, 15:50:06
Stunning. I always enjoy your updates, thank you and press on!
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on July 12, 2020, 12:31:39
These are the panels below the A-column.
(https://i.postimg.cc/cJnV9ZMN/P1040641.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/1gyCXkjW)
They have a lot of holes and I can't imagine that I will use all of them. So, new panels must be made.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Y9BTTVbL/P1040643.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/FfGPLPth)
Checking their fitment
(https://i.postimg.cc/XqVmY5MV/P1040653.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8J0tyjP3)
(https://i.postimg.cc/XJKtW8zH/P1040651.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ftL8jxZm)
The next task is the front leaf spring. Since the car will be fitted with the heavier Ford 2.6 Zephyr engine the front leaf spring must be strengthened.
The original leaf spring:
(https://i.postimg.cc/Sxp1G5Nn/P1040670.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/6yYhWMZK)
(https://i.postimg.cc/X75Dd33M/P1040673.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MvWDJCvt)
I bought a leaf spring made for the 2.6 engine but the quality is quite poor.
(https://i.postimg.cc/FFdPXmYf/P1040676.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Hjm0bq4H)
Some of the leafs are of unequal length, i.e. the length from the middle (measured from the hole in the middle) to the left is different from the length to the right. I think this is not good if you want a symmetric springing behaviour. The difference is 1 cm.

(https://i.postimg.cc/7YSmbVMw/P1040678.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PPrmR1RR)
But the worst is that the lowest leaf containing the bush is wider than the original spring. This leads to positive camber.
The original spring:
(https://i.postimg.cc/fbqv1gZj/P1040575.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/DWssX6S8)
the new one:
(https://i.postimg.cc/7LZVsyvZ/P1040576.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CR9k5XL3)
So, my plan is to use the old leaf spring and combine it with two leafs of the new leaf spring. Building the correct leaf spring is only possible when the car is finished. I don't want to have this look for the Aceca:
(https://www.7-forum.com/treffen/2017/170702/IMG_1671-b.jpg)

Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on September 12, 2020, 16:35:03
Time to say "goodbye"?
(https://i.postimg.cc/sxZ2F4Jt/P1040666-Kopie.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/K3xbBLwN)
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on September 17, 2020, 16:42:52
This picture was taken at the beginning of summer. The plan was to sand blast and paint the frame. Unfortunately, the sand blast machine cracked and it took some time to get an replacement. But last weekend it came back.
(https://i.postimg.cc/xTbJY31j/P1040791.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/mtB2yM9K)
I directly started to mount some panels and the doors so the next step can be started: a professional panel maker should bring the body back on the car and the door skins must be renewed. Today it started this journey.
(https://i.postimg.cc/g04r4MNs/P1040807.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/f3twRv4S)
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: TTM on September 17, 2020, 19:00:21
Very nice... did you have the chassis powder-coated?
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on September 18, 2020, 07:50:22
Very nice... did you have the chassis powder-coated?
No, it is not powder coated. A special chassis 2-component paint was used.
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on September 18, 2020, 14:50:08
Together with the frame the leaf springs were sand blasted and painted. The original rear spring
(https://i.postimg.cc/25ttHQJP/P1040810.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gwv4jZGD)
and the modified front spring. After I brought the tips into shape you cannot see a difference between the new and the old leafs.
(https://i.postimg.cc/2yRKYzCG/P1040811.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hzsrbRzQ)
Since two leafs were added new mounting brackets were needed.
(https://i.postimg.cc/B61VR8ft/P1040812.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/sQsmhgXR)
At the end they were assembled with a lot of grease between them and wrapped with grease tape. Really a funny work. Everything stick to your hand after that work  :o
(https://i.postimg.cc/9QWszFZN/P1040813.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/svNTNznp)

(https://i.postimg.cc/D0rYytZT/P1040814.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XBvgs1dH)
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: Norman on September 24, 2020, 23:12:24
Many years ago I weighed my 2.6 Ace on an industrial weighbridge which I believe was pretty accurate. It came out at exactly 18cwt (0.9t). The spec at the time was iron head, walking-stick manifold, 3 HS6 SUs, standard width 16 inch wheels, factory detachable roll bar, standard steel fuel tank.

I haven't weighed it recently but it's probably a bit heavier now as the body and chassis have been strengthened at the rear. Also the wheels are heavier, 5.5 inch wide, 15 inch diameter but with more spokes than original. And I have added an overdrive. On the other hand, head and tank are now alloy and the roll bar is not fitted.

Hope that provides some food for thought.
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on September 25, 2020, 06:38:42
A deep look inside the differential case after sand blasting the case.
(https://i.postimg.cc/QNmDQ6gC/P1040815.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qgNW0x5H)

(https://i.postimg.cc/ZKqSVrjc/P1040816.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gr1Q0LCX)

(https://i.postimg.cc/j5zxYtJ4/P1040817.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XGYSwMLr)
I used new bushes. Now it is ready for painting.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Zn4TT28t/P1040818.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hzZFsCZp)

(https://i.postimg.cc/8cZVT5kM/P1040819.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/m11nwTHg)
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on October 27, 2020, 12:09:11
New index and table of contents on the first page. Thank you David.
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on November 03, 2020, 16:52:51
I found a webpage of a little company here in Germany which promised to make paper sealings. You only have to send a Autocad drawing or something similar. So I spent some hours to make a Autocad drawing for the main sealing of the differential house and the one for the output shafts. I sent the drawings to the company to find out that there were not reachable neither by e-mail nor by telephone  >:( . Hard to make business like that.

So, I did it by hand today.
(https://i.postimg.cc/DyTb7rtY/P1040997.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/nM3LkDVv)

(https://i.postimg.cc/VsMCyGHC/P1040998.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Z0bRpcmb)

(https://i.postimg.cc/jd4n2WTq/P1040999.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9rzQNQzs)
After that I called the transmission guy to ask him for assembling the differential and overhauling the type 9 transmission. The answer was: not this year. Call me beginning of next year.
I guess I am on a roll today.
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: nikbj68 on November 07, 2020, 00:33:01
Wow.
People keep building walls, but you keep smashing through them!
So pleasing to see your progress, and a pile of bits starting to look like an Aceca again!
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on November 17, 2020, 17:12:18
Currently, I am disassembling the front and rear axle. The front is so easy every child can do this,
(https://i.postimg.cc/BvqTy5XL/P1040831.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/VJV00C9m)
but the rear hubs are a complete different story. I have a nice hub puller but I had to use a hydraulic press to remove the hub. I was able to remove one hub but the driveshaft is corroded
(https://i.postimg.cc/kXQwpgfH/index.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xcdKknrG)
On the other side I wasn't able to remove the hub. I changed to a bigger press (16 tons)
(https://i.postimg.cc/jSW2jLmg/P1050009.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0zsPW28D)

(https://i.postimg.cc/jSG5nRrs/P1050010.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3kF7P5R6)
but still wasn't able to remove the hub. Finally I cut the hub with the driveshaft into two pieces.

(https://i.postimg.cc/yNPM4Tjw/P1050011.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/mcPX7C0w)

(https://i.postimg.cc/YC1c87W2/P1050014.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/K1vsvdfC)
The rest of the hub has around 10 mm contact with the draftshaft. With a normal puller I still wasn't able to remove the rest of the hub. After cutting the rest of the key (ca. 5 mm) the puller removed the hub.
(https://i.postimg.cc/HLHqhNww/P1050016.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/sM6HBw0x)

(https://i.postimg.cc/g29FvjrB/P1050017.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9rBn2WdG)

Also this driveshaft was corroded in the lower section

(https://i.postimg.cc/hGnG0g2c/P1050029.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/yDfB1qqb)
but the upper part had a perfect match with the hub. No sign of corrosion.
(https://i.postimg.cc/SsvqHpfX/P1050030.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/N9mWrSVY)
I guess the reason why I couldn't remove the hub was that the hub had started to turn on the driveshaft and the key twisted. The top of the driveshaft does't fit the hub with key anymore.
(https://i.postimg.cc/j5pqLbwp/P1050031.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ftvQr1vC)
Anyway, the "AC Ace/Aceca Rear Hub Tapered Spline Conversion Kit" from Triple M on its was to me. Look here: https://www.triplembyjswl.com/stock-parts/ac-ace-aceca-rear-hub-tapered-spline-conversion-kit-new-product-_15.shtml (https://www.triplembyjswl.com/stock-parts/ac-ace-aceca-rear-hub-tapered-spline-conversion-kit-new-product-_15.shtml)
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on November 21, 2020, 18:10:40
As already suggested I think the hub had started to turn on the axle.
(https://i.postimg.cc/5tYqPyTZ/P1050039.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LqS159HT)

(https://i.postimg.cc/P5FQzY3W/P1050040.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9DZ9cRj0)

No way the remove the hub with a puller.
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on November 26, 2020, 14:38:59
Currently, I am working on the rear brakes. It was nearly impossible to use the brake adjuster

(https://i.postimg.cc/R0pzrBm5/P1050002.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Y4FPgTjb)
After cleaning and greasing with copper paste it works like a charm
(https://i.postimg.cc/y8FdzWpq/P1050048.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3kx7XrH9)

(https://i.postimg.cc/mrBrZRKP/P1050049.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/NKCtphst)

What looks like a pizza tray will be the new drum brake dust cover. The old ones (in the middle) have reached the end of there lifetime.
(https://i.postimg.cc/mgxDq7wN/P1050047.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3dBY04zd)
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: James Eastwood on December 02, 2020, 15:39:23
Bravo, keep going.

One of my rear hubs had the same problem as yours, despite using a puller and a hydraulic press eventually I had to cut them apart and replace the parts which were very difficult to find.
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on December 08, 2020, 15:24:18
The revenge of the mummy:

(https://i.postimg.cc/J02krQMQ/P1050075.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/q62RQytt)
(https://i.postimg.cc/8kKWmTMr/P1050077.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9z9rW5xW)

Fresh from the painter:

(https://i.postimg.cc/639zkxrR/P1050078.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rdPS4bYF)
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on December 11, 2020, 16:51:12
The hand brake cables are dead

 (https://i.postimg.cc/d3L1nhZN/P1050079.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4HRsxN5p)
especially the clamps
(https://i.postimg.cc/44SnyQjD/P1050080.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/SjcmtCSd)
I got new hand brake cables from Brian Eacott
(https://i.postimg.cc/L8dXB69v/P1050081.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jLXtRTJJ)
tried to make new clamps on the lathe
(https://i.postimg.cc/wTRMmsp7/P1050082.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gndG9jrW)
and it seems to work  :)
(https://i.postimg.cc/L5wsWmz9/P1050084.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4HvZ7kLq)

(https://i.postimg.cc/sXnxpYxZ/P1050085.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tZx9bVhX)

Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on December 17, 2020, 15:48:01
Work for the dumb: making header gaskets by drilling several small and big holes.
(https://i.postimg.cc/MHBzWXSs/P1050087.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4HXDPfnt)
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on December 18, 2020, 18:27:35
A look inside of the hand brake mechanism part of the slave cylinder.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Kz4TKTrN/P1050093.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/62JqgyP2)

(https://i.postimg.cc/MG9RK5RH/P1050094.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rdtzfSf2)

(https://i.postimg.cc/nLFBJgXN/P1050095.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/NKn58N7x)

(https://i.postimg.cc/C1tqbKcV/P1050096.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/34XNT3ML)
The black parts are not rusty but black zinc-plated.
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: AC Ace Bristol on December 19, 2020, 09:33:17
.
Peter
Great Thread been following from day ONE.
As you have the rear  wheel brake cylinders apart......  Tim Isles had some internal parts  made e.g.  the two small rollers and the two taper sliders which give you adjustment.
Not sure if you need replacement parts,  as these items are not readily available.  Tim had additional ones made . ;)
Tim Isles Ace Bristol Registrar ... email:    tim_isles@hotmail.com
 Keith

Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on December 20, 2020, 08:11:04
Keith,
thank you for the advice. My parts are still ok. I will use them and in conjunction with the copper paste it works quite well.
Kind regards,
Peter
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on December 23, 2020, 16:54:08
The orginal wheel nuts. 60 years of violance and abuse has left there marks.
(https://i.postimg.cc/6QmK5Qrs/P1050063.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/VSnpKmZ4)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Vk41pg5k/P1050064.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Bj8d1xxr)
(https://i.postimg.cc/1ztPQFNc/P1050065.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/FY2wb7p7)

(https://i.postimg.cc/Fs59L12N/P1050066.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/K4fSXcGH)
Although I bought repro wheel nuts from MWS I decided to re-chrom the original wheel nuts. In agreement with the chroming-plating guy we decided not to remove every dent since the risk was revalant that the lettering would have been damaged. I think at the end I have some nice wheel nuts with some kind of patina. Also, the headlamp collars were re-chromed.
(https://i.postimg.cc/660XyzLL/P1050108.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/YjhVP6Ph)

(https://i.postimg.cc/BQ7fC6zj/P1050109.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/fJdPzwDs)

(https://i.postimg.cc/R0Kr9TZt/P1050110.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xkfp3MHj)

(https://i.postimg.cc/4NxTttWC/P1050111.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/z36MYLmp)

(https://i.postimg.cc/SxXF140D/P1050112.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4YTSnrx9)

What a nice glittering christmas present  :)
(https://bestgifs.makeagif.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/ezgif.com-resize-8.gif)
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on December 31, 2020, 14:48:33
Last action for this year: assembling the rear hubs with new bearings and sealings

(https://i.postimg.cc/k4w88rMm/P1050103.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/622yJmGj)

(https://i.postimg.cc/NFMXkNLr/P1050104.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/2bs3z7Qz)

The perfect time to replace the old bolts. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to find part threaded bolts with a length of 1 1/4" with a non-thread length of 1/2". So I bought 1 3/4" bolts, cut every one repaired the first two thread pitch of every bolt. What a funny work.
(https://i.postimg.cc/3JzG2Fhd/P1050119.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3dCWTpdT)

The break shoes got new brake linings. If you do this at home be aware that the two pots of the adjusting mechanism have a left and a right side. If you mix them up the brake shoes have a bigger diameter and the brake drum doesn't fit anymore.
(https://i.postimg.cc/2jchSfXd/P1050120.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PNDPS0HN)

(https://i.postimg.cc/brBtCQ2V/P1050121.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Mf1HXf51)
(https://i.postimg.cc/4d4HX86F/P1050123.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/R38ZRLbc)

I used the axle from Triple M. As mentioned above they changed their design a little bit. The main nut isn't self locking anymore but should be fixed with blue Loctite.
(https://i.postimg.cc/dthd7Szb/P1050122.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tYH7wDRk)

And finished. I hope that I will install them into the car next year. The special washer of the break drums are not rusty but black zinc-plated. Maybe not the best idea ...

(https://i.postimg.cc/0NsJB5bv/P1050124.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jDM5WbH3)

(https://i.postimg.cc/fRX9CSW5/P1050125.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/nXFrczDQ)

(https://i.postimg.cc/Zqxytkdd/P1050126.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/1g4zwjMm)

(https://i.postimg.cc/ZnC9dCD8/P1050127.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/64x5s5Kq)
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: AE 501 on January 11, 2021, 11:25:04
.....wie unsportlich, einfach den Entlüfternippel zu verlängern!

.....it's not fair but clever to have the bleeding nipple elongated!      My hands are not able to reach them in original shape ;-))
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on January 11, 2021, 11:36:17
.....wie unsportlich, einfach den Entlüfternippel zu verlängern!

.....it's not fair but clever to have the bleeding nipple elongated!      My hands are not able to reach them in original shape ;-))
Honour, to whom honour is due. I thought this design is original. The car had the elongated bleeding nipples when I bought it.
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on January 25, 2021, 14:21:57
I ordered some BSF bolts in UK middle of December. It took 4 weeks for them to arrive but now I was able to finish the front axle. Of course new bearings and sealings. The disc rotors have a thickness of 12mm so half of their lifetime has been reached. Should be good for some 1000 km "normal" driving.
(https://i.postimg.cc/vmd7bBNy/P1050142.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BjMPCq37)
The front brake calipers has been sand blasted and I painted them with a special 2-component brake paint. The pots looked like new but the sealings and dust covers had to be replaced. The anti-rattle plates were complete rotten. After making new from stainless steel I had to recognize that I can buy new one  >:( .
(https://i.postimg.cc/G2fH3gmD/P1050105.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/dk8q4BdQ)

(https://i.postimg.cc/yxSWDhDb/P1050106.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/RJ4v8HQ7)


(https://i.postimg.cc/dQS8Dnx4/P1050114.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/14wgj0Pq)

(https://i.postimg.cc/Rh8f8VHj/P1050115.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/q6sz6rQL)

(https://i.postimg.cc/28bnWhpm/P1050117.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/D8hWkWyY)
(https://i.postimg.cc/FH0cWvsB/P1050141.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CRLz5W8G)
Due to missing tasks I started with some work on the dashboard. It is unbelievable how mush time you can spend on making a glovebox cover.
(https://i.postimg.cc/WzDqMLHS/P1050143.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JHLhLgmB)

(https://i.postimg.cc/yd8Z8ShM/P1050144.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/sBbXnxNm)

(https://i.postimg.cc/FKmSw6Ys/P1050145.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/nXRMD0K6)

(https://i.postimg.cc/LsTPSVPk/P1050146.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/KK1jrBJ4)

(https://i.postimg.cc/bJV2DN3s/P1050147.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LYfsGRdp)


Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on February 01, 2021, 17:04:48
After 3.5 month in the body shop and spending a fortune the car is back at home.
(https://i.postimg.cc/vZKLpHBd/P1050133.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/68dvZKnH)

(https://i.postimg.cc/W1zwWJsn/P1050135.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/G40D9t88)

Except the roof every panel (really every) was repaired, modified and/or replaced. The door skins were a horror story of it's own.
You can see that the head light section was completely re-newed since the old version was in such a terrible condition that it wasn't possible to adjust the head lights. The ugly rectangle indicator lamps should be replaced by the Lucas 539 style lamps.
(https://i.postimg.cc/sD6phD5Z/P1050148.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LnPYdSCH)
Now, I have to find the middle of the head light section. Not so easy as it seems. First a cardboard model of the head light chrom ring with a defined center must be constructed. This model can be arranged in the section such it looks quite ok. After the center is transfered from the cardboard model to the aluminium I can identify the line on which the indicator lights should be placed.
(https://i.postimg.cc/x1XLyDPp/P1050151.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/18Zgsd2D)
Unfortunately, to identify the heights of the mounting holes of the indicator lamps the front bumper should be installed. Also these holes were closed since the old ones were frayed. This complete tasks took some hours. Here is the result.

(https://i.postimg.cc/rw7xfnnV/P1050152.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Bjcj6gfk)

(https://i.postimg.cc/qBGcpGRw/P1050153.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/w37RVLDR)

(https://i.postimg.cc/xTTv8bN2/P1050154.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ThFLH1c7)


Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: James Eastwood on February 01, 2021, 17:34:11
Stunning result from the body shop, wow. I hope to see your Aceca in the UK when it is finished.

BTW - Goodwood Revival tickets went on sale this morning. My tickets are purchased. Goodwood are offering a roll over to 2022 in case the event cannot proceed.
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on February 06, 2021, 08:29:53
Thanks to David we have a new table of contents and an updated index. Please, see the first two postings.
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on February 21, 2021, 12:11:14
This picture shows the original overrider and the new one.
(https://i.postimg.cc/xdDDbBfN/P1050165.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QFbn24Wj)
The original overrider has a plate to hook in the mounting bolt, the new overrider has it already integrated. That would have been nice if the bolt wouldn't be too short.
(https://i.postimg.cc/SskBg8zy/P1050163.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PLVVxC4c)
I guess, using have of the normal nut is not really enough to fix the overrider. My idea is to modify a union nut so it goes through the overrider brackets in order to use a much longer way of the mounting bolt thread.
(https://i.postimg.cc/yNmqhnxQ/P1050162.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/p9L1RfDz)
And it works ...
(https://i.postimg.cc/t4VGJ9jH/P1050167.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/pmx61br0)
Title: Re: BE 646
Post by: dkp_cobra on February 23, 2021, 16:40:33
It's such a long time ago that I disassembled the bumper that I forgot how to mount them. The override brackets must be inside the overriders. And a spacer sleeve is needed between the overrider and the bracket. I welded the spacer to the bracket.
(https://i.postimg.cc/MHXv4m6y/P1050172.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5Qd4QvF0)
Now, the position of the bumpers looks much better.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Xv0BJ5Lb/P1050173.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/RWXZpN2s)

(https://i.postimg.cc/wBcysB4s/P1050174.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/mck2vTsb)

(https://i.postimg.cc/KzGK7yCp/P1050175.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QBzxsv8c)

(https://i.postimg.cc/pTsmq6HW/P1050176.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/1nNRzMX2)

I installed the battery tray
(https://i.postimg.cc/Rh3ZGCdd/P1050181.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0KsvysLK)
and made new clutch- and brake lines.
(https://i.postimg.cc/05Lw3hSj/P1050177.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PNQJv32n)

(https://i.postimg.cc/hhWcrLf4/P1050180.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LgTc4ZtG)

(https://i.postimg.cc/XYgBrJzB/P1050182.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZWC5gTZJ)

(https://i.postimg.cc/43N7VgDL/P1050183.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rD3w2vFx)

(https://i.postimg.cc/Pq3LM7ht/P1050184.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/2qW8k2VJ)

(https://i.postimg.cc/gcwhgGn1/P1050185.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/dDYD1PR9)

(https://i.postimg.cc/9FZ7j1Pp/P1050186.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/HVWxwwhc)

Also the mounting bracket for the steering column in conjunction with the accelator padel was installed.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Px1jqLSB/P1050188.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/wyxPfB8V)

(https://i.postimg.cc/XvRW3Kkf/P1050189.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CZsXsqt5)