Hi Cliff,
I own CFX54 another roadster, The way I would approach it first is as follows:
Disconnect and remove the battery and plug it on a charger away from the car.
Drain the gas tank, it probably has old gas in it! Use a siphon and a Jerry can. the old gas must be disposed of.
Disconnect the gas gage sensor wires, and remove bolts and sensor to give access to inside the tank. With a flashlight look inside the tank and see how it looks! If it's all rusted and dirty in there, the tank will have to be removed and sent to a specialist who will repair it. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REPAIR IT YOURSELF, even if it looks empty and dry, it can still explode if you bring any kind of flame near or inside it. If it looks OK inside, make a new gasket and close the panel using sealing compound.
Engine: if indeed a head gasket went bad and the engine sat with coolant inside, the engine is finished, complete tear down will be necessary. I would look at all the hoses first, a "water explosion" is likely to come from a busted hose! next remove the spark plugs and inspect, they should be black and the electrodes white, if that is the case, there is no water in the cylinders. If one or more are rusted, complete tear down will be required. Pull the dipstick and inspect, if it's black it's ok, if it's rusted or it looks like it's covered with mustard, there is water in the oil then the motor is finished. If you don't see any trace of water in the oil or the cylinders, then I would try to rotate the engine by hand, if it turns, it's a good sign. Put a bit of Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder a rotate the motor by hand, if it's frozen you can start by warming up some oil and poring it in the cylinders try to pry the engine gently with a wrench on the harmonic balancer back and forth. This might take a couple of days! little by little it should free up. Do it until you can rotate it freely by hand. I forgot, drain the oil and leave the sump open and see if the oil you have put in the combustion chambers comes out the bottom, if it does, it means the rings are stuck and it's not good. You have to work very gently otherwise you might break a ring. DO NOT USE THE STARTER MOTOR UNTIL THE ENGINE IS FREED UP. If it turn freely, close the sump and fill the motor with a very light weight oil like 5W30, also install a new filter that you have filled with the same oil. Install new plugs, new fuel filters. The original fuel filter on the left side of the engine is of the type that can be cleaned. There is a small one on the carburetor that has to be replaced. If the motor starts, it will smoke a lot for 10 minutes and then if you are lucky, the smoke should disappear. If it does not, the engine will have to come out. If the engine runs fine, run for an hour until temperature is normal, then drain the oil again, install a new filter as before and fill with 10 or 20W50. The carburetor might need rebuilding if the motor misses.
The hand book is available from the AC Club!
The car will run OK on unleaded for a while but a valve job will be required eventually to convert the guides. You can buy a set of Edelbrock aluminum heads which come already set up with SS valves for about $1400 here in the US, your motor will run better with those.
If the motor is shot, I would source a good motor from the US and replace your old one, it will be cheaper than rebuilding the original one and there are no engine numbers, just date codes. I can help you with finding a good engine builder this side of the ocean.
The later model cars had black rockers like mine, check out the "4 speed conversion" thread and you will see pictures of my Frua's cockpit. Is it the same?
Cigar lighter is the same as Aston Martin DBS and early V8. Try "Puddleduck" on line, I have bought Aston parts from them and they are friendly.
www.puddleduck.uk.com For the sunvisor hinges, try this it might fit:
http://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/en/858~sun+visor+bracket-details/ Hope this helps!
Emmanuel
