AC Owners Club Forum
AC Owners Club Forum => Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum => Topic started by: SpqrEddie on January 02, 2023, 21:54:19
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Hello!
the doors were sealed with piping all around originally?
the doors dont close correctly with the thick leather piping now installed on the car.
I am considering removing it, or at least remove the padding from insid the piping.
thanks;
Eddie
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Hello!
I have been suggested that the original piping (or the most appropiate) should be the Furflex type, and not leather.
As well i have been suggested, and i see as well from some photo on line that originally there was no seal in the front part of the door (a bit suprising however, a lot of water and wind noise can come from there. Altough the space is limited so may be not much water and noice can come in.
Therefore i am considering cutting the piping where the glass frame end. This will help closing the door, as now the piping installed is too thick.
Below some photos from interent, not sure if correct or not. If you have any clue please advice before i eventually cut the seal behind the door!
thanks!
Eddie
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The doors don't have any piping in this position originally.
The Furflex door seal is fixed in the door aperture only, not on the door.
Regards, Luke.
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The black seal on the door in the first photo is not original.
The red car with the grey interior and the green car are as original.
The seals on an Aceca are far from any modern car level of sealing,
especially on the rear hatch but then it would be a mistake to compare
most hand made cars from this era to any later production cars.
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Thank you Luke,
This help a lot.
So it was probably put there by the previous owner. But as mentioned, I have to force the door a lot to close itwith that piping there.
I will remove it then, as per original design. thanks for the confirmation.
I want to avoid to distort the door, or to create any play on the long term by forcing the doors and the hinges at every door closure.
Best,
Edmondo
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Hello!
with the piping inside the hinges removed, the doors now close nicely!
they still encounter some resistance, as the piping around the glass is too hard, and it doesnt compress.
I am planning to install Furflex piping as i understant it the correct one.
Anybody would know wich was the original diameter? i seems to find it only in 1.4mm (0.55 inches), wich seems a bit thick compared to the leater piping now installed.
I aim at founding a very soft piping wich will compress and adapt to the window frame contour witouth forcing it.
Thanks!
Eddie
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The furflex seal that Martrim in the UK sell is approximately 14mm diameter, which is
the same size as the original 9/16" diameter seal. As the furflex is hollow it will relatively
easily compress to about half its diameter, to around 8mm thick.
https://www.martrim.co.uk/car-trimming-supplies/tack-on-furflex.php (https://www.martrim.co.uk/car-trimming-supplies/tack-on-furflex.php)
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Thank you so much Luke!
i have contacted a few suppliers and in the end i think that is actually Martrim that i will use. They sent me a sample, and and soon as here i will report on it.
https://www.martrim.co.uk/car-trimming-supplies/tack-on-furflex.php?sample_cart=add&id=813
other suppliers, even if i think there are not many producer. Probably is the same source for all:
https://john-skinner.co.uk/materials-and-colours/furflex/
https://www.jrwadhams.co.uk/furflex.html
https://www.car-hood.co.uk/furflex
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An interesting thread as I have an Ace, AE 71 which has been fitted with modern sticky back foam strips which I am looking to change.
Can someone enlighten me on what should be used around the bonnet and boot apertures.
Thanks
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Hello All!
Please see photo of two samples of Furflex received.
One is hollow with a rubber pipe inside to keep the shape. It can not compress much, but with the pipe inside the trimming will keep the shape and probably adapt better to the door. But it is quite hard, so i think it will put too much pressure on the door and glass frame tending to distort them when the door is closed. A similar situation to the leather one that there is now on the car.
The second sample is from another supplier, and the hollow Furflex trim is empty inside. It is just an hollow fabric tube. Obviously it will not be able to keep a perfect round shape without the rubber pipe inside, but it it probably more appropiate, as will will provide less resistance as it can compress more. So preserving better the door frames, hinges etc.. Might be a bit more noisy as it might not completely fully adapt to the gaps.
My question is, how the original type was? just an hollow fabric type? or there was an internal piping?
Thanks!
Eddie
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Hi Eddie.
I've attached a few photos which should help.
The bottom furflex which is held in place by the ally trim has a softish rubber hose inside approx 7.5mm dia and has a velvet type covering.
The upper seal is a smaller diameter, see photos, and is wrapped in a thinner material, almost like starched cotton (not sure how else to describe it), this has a round soft solid foam inside.
I have also got some bits the same as this but have a small diameter rubber hose inside but I think these might be for the rear side windows.
Let me know if you need any more info.
Kind regards Nick
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More photos
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More photos
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Hello Nick!
Thank youn very much for this information, and for the photos!
This make sense to me, as wit that smaller diameter and if it is softer it will adapt without distorting the window frame.
In referecne to my sample without rubber pipe, the supplier gor back to me and informed me that his Furflex as well has a pipe inside, but must have fallen from the sample! this is why is not there, but it should.
orignally it might even had a "P" shape. here some photos and dimensions: http://www.ac2litre.com/parts3.html
Thanks!!
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Hello!
Got the Furflex samples. 3 different companies, and i bought in the end the thinner and softer one.
I have installed it, and finally the driver door close nicely without forcing it!
For the passenger door, despite having skimmed the door panel, it still doensn't close well. Still not enough space between the door sill and the door (+panel).
Without the Furflex it closes well.
So i dont know now if i should continue to thin the door panel, or if may be there was no Furflex seal in this part of the door?
Please let me know if anybody is aware of the orignal set up. In some internet photos, sometimes i see the Furflex, sometimes there is not.
Thanks!
Eddie
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Hi Eddie.
I've attached a couple of photos which might help a bit. These show the original set up on my Aceca. Let me know if you need any more info .
Kind regards Nick
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Hi Eddie,
The original door cards are made from approx 4mm thick plywood, covered in leather with no padding.
It's hard to tell from your photos but is there some padding under the leather on your car?
Regards, Luke.
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Hi Eddie.
I've attached a couple of photos which might help a bit. These show the original set up on my Aceca. Let me know if you need any more info .
Kind regards Nick
Thank you Nick,
I should have read again your previous posts, thanks!
So if i understand correctly you belive to have original seals on your car, and the vertical one is thinner than the horizontal one? this might explain my issue, with the full size furflex it doesent closes.
Now i am not at the gargage, but will measure again what i got. and i will eventually build a seal myself of the right diameter.
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Hi Eddie,
The original door cards are made from approx 4mm thick plywood, covered in leather with no padding.
It's hard to tell from your photos but is there some padding under the leather on your car?
Regards, Luke.
Hello Luke,
Thanks so much for these infos.
I will check the plywood thickness. The door panels are definetley not original. And indeed done with padding. I have removed the padding around the door controur, but still not thin enough. I ahve also reduced the panels so to not have them in fornt of the furflex, but unfortunately still not closing well. What suggested by Nick might be the solution. Thinner piping in that position.