Messages

[peter_stanwicks@att.net]

16

Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Racing Windscreen

« on: May 19, 2010, 03:19:54 »

Antoine,
   Yes, please send the pictures.  My email address is peter_stanwicks@att.net
   
   I know what you mean about posting pictures.  I've been meaning to post some pictures of the vintage Bristol racing intakes but can't bring myself to go through the whole process.  There must be some technical or security reason for this method.
   
   Thank you very much for the help
   Peter Stanwicks

17

Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / AEX607 for sale in CA!

« on: May 08, 2010, 03:12:35 »

Those look like Connecticut vintage number plates on the car, but I have never seen it at shows or meets.  Given the mileage, it probably didn't get out much.
   
   With vintage plates the maximum assessed value is $500 so I pay about $18 per year property tax on the Ace.  With out this program the taxes would be about $5500 per year!
   Peter

18

Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Racing Windscreen

« on: May 07, 2010, 03:08:01 »

Thanks for all the replies!
   Yes, I am looking for  more of a Perspex screen rather than the flat screen from Moss.
   
   The ones from Corbra Restorers and Fast Freddy are the right concept, but vary in detail from the one pictured on my Ace.  I need to get the picture scanned.  It shows a small Perspex screen with maybe just a bit of curve.  The base matches the body curve very well.  It is held in place by 3 studs.  The studs are brazed to a backing plate which is under the cowl.  The body has three holes in the cowl.  The backing plate and studs are inserted up behind the dash.  The windshield is fastened to the protuding studs.  I have the three studs with acorn nuts sticking through the cowl, but nothing to bolt on.  I'm beginning to think it was hand made.
   
   I should post the pictures of some carb air turning vanes.  I was told these were hand made at the jet engine maker Pratt&Whitney in their R&D lab.  The lab director also had an Ace and raced with my father.  Not sure I believe the story, but they are cool looking.
   
   I hadn't seen these sites.  Maybe I can get Fast Freddy to fab something
   Thanks very much
   Peter

19

Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Race set up for an Aceca Bristol

« on: March 17, 2010, 15:47:31 »

No argument... I agree it is counterintuitive.
   I tried everything and couldn't believe it either.  Sometimes experience gets in the way. I'd set the timing at 35BTDC @ 3000 and tell myself it's right. The engine would run poorly. I'd give in and advance the timing to about 50.
   The manual has a method that was used before timing lights were widely available.  It produces about the same result.  I like using the light since readings are recordable and repeatable.
   50 may not be as bad as it seems.  Piston position is not linear to crank angle.  And yes, slow ignition, flame propogation and pressure rise requires more advance.
   Peter

20

Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Race set up for an Aceca Bristol

« on: March 16, 2010, 01:22:30 »

Rob,
   Yes, 50 BTDC at 3000 RPM.  I have a hard time believing it also.  At first, I thought doing something wrong, but I've been working with points and timing lights for close to 40 years and recheck everything.  Then I thought the marks must be off.  I rebuilt the engine several years ago and calibrated everthing with my degree wheel but didn't find anything wrong.  Actually, the original timing marks are very accurate  It's about 50.  Less than that and power drops off and the engine runs hot.  More and power starts dropping, but it never knocks.
   
   My centrifugal advance is a bit useless.  I need to get new springs and recurve it.  I set timing at 3000 RPM because the centrifugal advance is all in and not bouncing around.  I get a stable reading.
   
   Most other engines like about 30-35 degrees advance at 3000.  I just figure this a quirk of the Bristol.
   Peter

21

Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Race set up for an Aceca Bristol

« on: March 15, 2010, 01:22:21 »

Rob,
   I don't race my Ace but have tuned it up a bit.
   
   Plugs: I got one of the longer reach plugs, but didn't get around to checking it in the head.  I think its going to bottom out because the head is not tapped through.  I use the 6 heat range as noted befor
   
   Ignition: I put in a positive ground Pertronix.  It gives a little better spark and eliminates the point problems.  Downside is the ignition can't be static timed to get it close after distributor work.  Timing is done dynamically with a strobe, some where about 50 degrees BTDC @ 3000 rpm.
   
   Carbs: Solex with accelerator pump.  120 main jet and 190 air correction.  The book main is a 125, but the plugs are a little dark
   
   Brake pads: stock
   
   Brake fluid: DOT 4, If I was racing, a dual master cylinder set-up would be a priority.
   
   Gearbox: SAE 30 non-detergent
   
   Diff: SAE 90 hypoid
   
   Engine Oil:  Shell Rotella 15w-40
   
   Anti-roll bars and stiffer springs are useful on the track, but I took them off BEX375 for street use.  I have the specs and drawings for these parts.
   
   You asked about cams.  The stock cam has these specs  Lift 0.202, Duration @ 0.05 lift 193 degress, Lobe centers 110 degrees, Timing Intake ATDC 110.   The Bristol sport cam is 0.209, 212, 110 and 110.  My Isky cam is .236, 230, 110 and 108.  Stock valve spring don't work with the high lift Isky cam.
   
   Peter

22

Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Spark plugs for racing

« on: March 09, 2010, 01:29:30 »

Rob,
   Did some web surfing and found the following.
   
   A cross reference chart showed the NGK 6 heat range is equivalent to a Champion 9 or 10.  The NGK 7 heat range is equivalent to Champion 7 or 8.  Apparently, NGK's cover more heat ranges than Champion with one design.  If you are loading up some Champion 9's may work better. You also may want to check for over rich mixture or oil fouling.
   
   The NGK racing product line seems oriented to motorcycles.  The closest plug I could find is R0045J-9.  The size is right but the hottest available heat range is 9, several steps colder than your current 7's.  It's a semi-surface discharge plug with poor low speed performance and short service life.  Sounds like a screaming bike plug to me!
   
   Robin's comment got me to looking for longer reaches.  Actually the NGK chart says the C7HSA is 12.7mm reach.  The "H" is the reach.  We may really want a C7ESA which is "E" reach, 19mm.  However, I could not find that NGK actually makes the C7ESA.  I did find that a Denso U22ESR-N is made.  The right heat range, 10mm thread, and 19mm reach.  I may get one of these and see how it fits in the head.  Note in the pictures, the spark plug hole is not threaded through.  There is an insert.
   Peter

23

Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Spark plugs for racing

« on: March 07, 2010, 03:16:01 »

Rob,
   It looks like I run one heat range hotter than most.  With NGK, the lower the number the hotter the plug.  I run C6HSA while many others run C7HSA.  My plugs look good and the car doesn't knock.
   
   As for the reach, the following pictures show the difference between the original Lodge and current plugs.  Actually, Champion N9Y is shown but its the same geometry as the NGK's. I also had some of the old KLG's that could be disassembled and cleaned, but can't find them right away.
   
   
   
   
   
   Both plugs are recessed from the combustion chamber.  I realize piston clearance is important, but they seem deep in the hole.  I don't know of any longer reach plugs
   
   
   
   

24

Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Spark plugs for racing

« on: March 05, 2010, 20:18:01 »

Rob,
   I am running NGK C6HSA in my D2.  I have 9.5:1 CR and a vintage Isky cam.  Never have a problem with knock, but I don't race the car.  I have an old engineering book on design and tuning of competition engines.  It mentions that the Bristol hemi head is very unlikey to knock; the engine design seems very tolerant to heat range, CR, fuel, etc.
   
   One thing about the NGK's is the reach seems a bit short.  When screwed into the head, the electrode is not in the combustion chamber.  It is still recessed in the spark plug hole.  I have a spare head and some old Lodge plugs.  I'll see if they have the same issue.  Anybody know of plugs with longer reach?
   
   Cold plugs were for racing and I remember starting racing engines on "warm-up" plugs and then switching them out to colder race plugs.  NGK has a very good website that goes into detail on plug selection.
   
   A little off subject, but get some Sunoco race gas, it's like crack for a Bristol engine.  There are a couple speed shops around that sell it.  It's 114 octane!  No worries about knocking.  It's weird stuff totally different than pump gas. It also runs $8-$9 for a US gallon.  When I want to give the AC (and me) a treat, I mix it 50/50 with 93 octane pump gas.  It could be a placebo effect, but the engine seems to run much better
   Peter

25

Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Some Vintage pics of Racing Aces

« on: February 09, 2010, 20:49:34 »

Keith,
   Does Tony's book say how long the Ace stayed in CP?.  Probably three years, 61, 62 and 63.  I have a picture of BEX375 running in CP at the 1963 SCCA New Englang Region race.  I didn't know the Ace was moved back down to DP or EP later as BEX375 stopped racing after the 1963 season.
   Peter

26

Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Some Vintage pics of Racing Aces

« on: February 08, 2010, 17:52:48 »

A another clue:
   The picture can be dated by the class.  When SCCA switched to "Index of Performance", I believe Ace-Bristols were put in E Production.  They were definitely in D Production at some point hence the "DP" next to the car number.  In 1961, the Ace-Bristol was moved up to C Production.  My Lime Rock grid photo shows BEX375 in CP.  I think that dampened the race results as they were outclassed in CP.
   
   For car numbers, a number and alternates were requested on the entry form.  At track registration for the event, the number was finalized.  BEX375 wore a "6".  It became "16" or "61" with just a few strips of electrical tape.  It could easily become "76" or "67" with a little more tape.
   Peter S

27

Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Aceca for 25 grand...

« on: January 15, 2010, 14:16:23 »

A tastefully modified car might be worth this, but cowboys are not known for restraint.  Fixing the exhaust, steering wheel and shifter are not too expensive for the DIY.  The paint and interior could cost quite a bit.  Deduct accordingly.

28

Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Dash Plaques and Racing History BEX375

« on: January 11, 2010, 15:31:21 »

Tom,
   You've stirred some other AC memories.
   
   My parents mentioned racing with Shelby Walker a number of times.  Being very small at the time, I can't remember him personally.  I met Tom Ellsworth at a VSCCA event.
   
   Here's some other names.  Rod DeRonge had a red Ace Bristol and raced with and against my father.  They also entered BEX375 in the 6 hours of Watkins Glen, but an engine failure at a prior local event prevented them from competing.  Rod sold his red Ace Bristol to Shelby Walker.
   
   Rod DeRonge and Jim Shellington, another local racer, bought a wrecked Ace Bristol.  I believe it was the one wrecked at Sebring.  I can recheck this with Jim.  Anyway, they did not get it repaired and sold it on.
   
   Would like to see and compare cars, notes and photos sometime
   Peter

29

Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Dash Plaques and Racing History BEX375

« on: January 06, 2010, 01:18:07 »

Keith,
   Yes, my father raced the Ace until about '64 and then switched to formula cars.  I have other period photos but the good ones are all framed.  I dig through the archives and see what else is available.
   
   I don't compete with the car, but put on about 1500 miles annually touring and going to meets.  In the USA, serious vintage racing requires all the modern safety equipment.  While probably for the best, I don't want to modify the car further.
   
   While the UK hill climbs are shorter, they are a mad blast and require total concentration.  I've read about a few like Shelsley Walsh.
   Peter S

30

Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / What to do is the engine/gear is brocken

« on: January 03, 2010, 15:33:58 »

Just my opinion
   If the AC or Bristol engines were not available, I would consider the Buick/Olds aluminum V8.  It's a nice size at 215cu and can make 200-300 hp depending on tune.  It is light in keeping with the rest of the car.  It has fairly good parts availability and specialist following.
   
   It was also a "period" conversion.  As Bob Smith as found, his car had one of these engines.  With the right period speed parts and a well engineered installation, I think it is a better option than the cast iron Ford sixes and eights.
   
   All the conversions probably devalue the car and I'd just rather have the original engine. If it's unobtainable, the 215 could be an option.
   
   Peter