Messages

31

Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / BEX1045

« on: January 03, 2010, 15:16:07 »

Bob,
   I wouldn't get to hung up on the year.  Factory records show my car was built in April 57.  It arrived new in the USA in early 58.  It sat in a show room in Connecticut until October 58 when it was purchased and first registered.  At the time, new cars sales in the fall were the first of the new model year so it was registerd and titled as a 1959.
   
   If I'm talking to AC owners, the car is a 1957.  Talking to the local officials, the car is a '59 just as it says on the papers.  No need to confuse the bureaucrats.
   
   Your car could have a similar timeline.
   Peter

32

Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Aceca rear lower shock mount bolt removal

« on: December 29, 2009, 14:52:15 »

Hi Greg
   
   It's been a year since I had all that stuff a part, but here's some thoughts.
   
   I remember removing the shock without removing the lower bolt.  Remove the top shock bolt, compress the shock, remove the lower retaining nut and washers.  I remember working the compressed shock out.
   
   Getting the shock out improves access but causes another problem.  The suspension drops so that the u-joints bind and the drive shafts can't be easily turned.  Lifting the upright a little  with a bottle jack solves this.
   
   Double check that there are not two stacked set screws in the holes.  I have seen instances where set screws were stacked.  Probably not the case here especially if you can turn the bolt.
   
   Here comes the more interesting bit.  There are two versions of this bolt, "stepped" and "straight".  My car has one of each.  I think the stepped version came first.  It stepps down to a smaller diameter at the shock.  The shock has a steel sleeve that mates to the bolt and washers at each side.  The sleave and washers can sieze on the bolt preventing withdrawal.  Getting the shock off first helps assess the situation.  The rubber bottom shock mount may slide off the steel sleeve.  On my car the washers are aluminum and may face one direction or could just be bad memory.
   
   The "straight" version of the bolt is just that; there is no step down at the shock mount.  I vaguely remember this also being difficult to disassemble.  There was ridge or something due to the side washers on the shock.  Some fine emery cloth and twisting finally freed the bolt.
   
   So, first get the shock off then make sure the bolt can be turned then check out the shock mounting end of the bolt.
   
   You probably don't want to hear this, but I've had other makes where this bolt was just completely siezed in place.  The whole rear suspension was disassembled and the bolt drilled out and replaced.
   
   I'm poking around under the Ace today.  If I think of anything else, I'll forward
   
   Peter S

33

Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Racing History BEX333 (1957-1964)

« on: December 23, 2009, 20:26:14 »

Just some background for the members in England
   
   There were a number of items that documented an SCCA race in the 50's and 60's.  Of course there are the trophies that listed the race, class and finish position.  Keith got the plaques off the trophies.  Many trophies usually platters, bowls, etc had the results engraved right in.  Keith's car could have placed in a number of other races, but without a plaque to remove the information is lost when the trophy was tossed.
   
   There were the "dash plaques" that John mentions.  Usually everyone that entered recieved a dash plaque.  It listed the event, venue and date on an etched metal plate about 1" x 2 1/2".  They always seemed to be the same size and style.  There were holes at each end to fix it to the dash.  This was very rarely done as John says they were tossed in a drawer.  We had the things laying all over.  Dash plaques are useful in documenting competition history when kept with other records and the car.  Alone they are too general to tell much.
   
   One item you'll very rarely see is the "tech inspection" sticker.  Before competing, the car and safety equipment went through inspection. Once the inspection was passed, a white sticker (1 x 3) was attached to the car.  It contained the event, date, inspector signature, etc.  It was usually put on the dash or wrapped around the roll bar.  Some cars were covered with stickers as a badge of honor.  Others peeled them off at the end of the season or randomly through the year as room was needed for new ones.  If you find a 1x3 patch of glue residue, think tech inspection sticker.
   
   There is also other paper work such as entry forms, class lists, grid diagrams, timing/scoring sheets and results sheets.  In the days before copiers, they had a limited distribution through mimeographing.
   
   Peter
   
   Peter

34

Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Tire Selection

« on: December 02, 2009, 14:34:50 »

Keith
   
   You have a point on the tire pressure typo.  For comparison, I checked an old Jaguar XK120 manual.  On 6.00x16 Dunlop RoadSpeed crossplies, the normal tire pressure is 25psi.  For "maximum handling", it recommends 35psi.  The Jag is a much heavier car on only slightly larger tires so crossplies do seem to need less pressure.
   
   Wasn't the Ace always on radials?  Mine was delivered new with Michelin X's.  Did they neglect to update the manual?
   
   The racing tubes sound like the ticket.  I remember original tubes had metal threaded stems with metal reinforcement at the tube wall and lock nuts.  I could not find them 10 years ago in the proper size.
   
   Peter S

35

Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Tire Selection

« on: December 01, 2009, 16:15:25 »

Keith
   
   I concluded that the manual has a typographic error.  Instead of 22 and 24, it should read 32 and 34.
   
   Peter S

36

Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Tire Selection

« on: December 01, 2009, 16:07:57 »

Peter,
   I assume you bought new tubes and rim strips/tape also.
   
   Check the size of the stem.  When I replaced mine, the new stems were much smaller than the hole in the rim.  I was concerned about chaffing.  The vintage tire supplier had special grommets that are specifically for this problem.  The grommets are made from plastic and have a smooth radius to protect the tube from the edge of the hole.  Don't want a stem getting cut.  The tire will go flat quickly at the most inopportune moment.
   
   Longstone seems very well versed in vintage tires.  They probably have this all sorted
   
   Peter S

37

Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Tire Selection

« on: November 18, 2009, 22:28:56 »

Peter,
   
   Yes the Avons are expensive here.  They are substantially less from Longstone in England, about $229 at todays exchange.  The Michelins are $262.
   
   According to the Longstone website, delivery for four tires is about $100 to the USA.

38

Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Tire Selection

« on: November 16, 2009, 17:25:16 »

Hi Peter
   
   I have 5.50x16 Michelin Racing Radials on BEX375.  They were the only radial available in the original size about 10 years ago.  They are not the "X" style radial that was originally on the car.  They grip very well but seem very heavy.
   
   The original 5.50x16 Michelin X is now available from Longstone tire.  Given the age of my current tires, I am considering these to see how the car originally handled.
   
   I've heard good things about the Avon Turbosteels and they are a bit less expensive

39

Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / BEX1146 on eBay (again)

« on: November 14, 2009, 19:44:55 »

The x-brace adds little to the torsional stiffness since it is all in one plane.
   
   Note the C channels welded to the underside of the main tubes.
   
   Welder, check. Scrap iron, check. Case of Bud, check.

40

Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Oil Viscosity

« on: February 06, 2009, 17:57:11 »

Sorry about the table. It didn't come out as pasted.  The system won't allow spaces. The top row is temperature in (F) and should be pushed to the right a couple tabs
   
   The Shell Rotella T 15W-40 in API SJ formulation still has the ZDDP.
   
   I saw the Moss motors oil, but think 20W-50 is too thick compared to the original 30W.  At 140F, a typical operating oil temperture, 30w has a viscosity of 238 and 20W-50 has a viscosity of 396.  The high viscosity and high resistance to flow will produce higher oil pressure.  It will also cause less oil to flow though the engine and bearings.  More oil will flow through the relief valve.  Oil carriers away heat as well as lubricates.
   
   Keith has had good results with 20W-50.  It's hard to argue with success, but 20W-50 still seems a little on the heavy side

41

Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Bristol Spin-on Filter

« on: January 25, 2009, 15:44:05 »

Oil pressure and flow depend on the components in the system and the fluid.  Oil pressure is readily measured but flow is inferred.  My concern with the spin-on filter adapter is that it restricts flow and reduces lubricant to the engine components.  The oil pressure is measured downstream of the filter and a significant restriction would cause lower hot oil pressure and reduced flow could be inferred.  That doesn’t seem to be the case from Keith’s experience.
   
   The data is a bit muddy due to the difference in oil viscosity.  A 30wt oil has a viscosity of 11.5 cSt at 100C while 20-50 has 18.8 cSt at 100C.  Since the oil 60% more viscous, the oil pressure will always be high.  High oil pressure is not necessarily good as it indicates high resistance and reduced flow.
   
   Very high oil pressure in cold engine results from thicker oil and insufficient relief valve capacity.  With thick oil, the resistance to flow is high and pressure rises.  The relief valve opens to prevent over pressure.  With thick oil, the relief valve goes wide open and still can not flow enough oil so the system pressure rises above the normal set point.  Once the oil heats up and becomes less viscous, the relief valve can control system pressure.
   
   My engine runs 75-80 psi cold and 60-65 with hot oil with 30wt oil.  Depending on weather, it takes ½ to 1 hour to get the oil to 135 –140F on the oil temperature gauge.  I also notice fresh oil maintains high oil pressure for longer.  Maybe Gary’s oil temperature hasn’t reached operating temperature?
   
   I stuck with the Volkes filter for this long due to concerns about oil flow and authenticity.  I didn’t like an orange filter next to the Bristol engine.  Engine pre-lube systems are great technology, but again disturb the classic sensibilities.  After rebuilding the engine and searching for Volkes filters, I’m re-considering all of this.
   
   Thanks for the help
   Peter S

42

Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Bristol Spin-on Filter

« on: January 24, 2009, 14:17:47 »

Keith
   Yes, the information is interesting and helpful. I'm leaning towards the HP1 adapter for the larger flow capacity and less pressure drop though the filter.  Lower pressure drop though the filter allows more oil to flow to all the components.  Higher resistance causes some of the oil flow to return to sump through the relief valve.
   
   I am also going to check out the 20/50 oil. I drive my car about 1000-1500 miles a year so most wear occurs at start up.  The multi-vis oil flows better at start up.
   Thanks
   Peter

43

Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Modern oil in old motors

« on: January 17, 2009, 02:33:32 »

Thanks the articles and Jay's information confirm what I read.
   
   I checked the Shell web site.  The Rotella T single grade straight 30wt is listed CF-4, CF-2, CF and SJ.  This may be old infomation and it doesn't mention the concentration of ZDDP.
   
   Unfortunately, parts suppliers only carry the latest oils, usually API SM.  The local suppliers stopped stocking racing oil.  Castrol USA doesn't list any vintage oils.  Looks like mail order racing oil or ZDDP additive.
   Peter

44

Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Hand brake cover

« on: January 06, 2009, 21:57:23 »

Peter,
   I can send a few pictures.  Send your e-mail.
   I can probably piece together a pattern for you.  I had a new one made up awhile back.  The old one was taken apart to make a pattern.  I saved the pieces.  I can go through the parts bins and find them if you are interested.
   Peter S.

45

Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / BEX 402 Final Prep For Road

« on: December 01, 2008, 17:51:30 »

Gary C
   I just rebuilt the Bristol 100D719 in my Ace.  Discussions with local engine builders and the Bristol manual produced two condiderations in break-in, the cam and the rings.
   
   The cam/tappets have high contact stresses especially when running stiffer valve springs.  Some of the racing V8's run valve open loads of 600 lbs!!  Fortunately, the Bristol is not anywhere near this but the cam is only splash/mist lubricated.  When building an engine, use the special cam lube from Comp Cams or equivalent.  When starting a fresh engine, take it to 2000 rpm without load and hold it there for 1/2 hour.  This gets all the oil splashed and misted while the tappets are bedding in.
   
   For the rings, I followed the Bristol manual and kept engine speed under 3000 rpm for 1000 miles.  This is a very tough thing with a nice road, an Ace and a fresh Bristol engine.  I used a ring lubricant from Summit Racing.  In previous engines I just used motor oil at assembly.  My rings seem to seat-in completely around 600 miles.  The fumes from the breather went away.
   
   For transmission oil, the manual says straight 30 weight.  I've also been told to use only non-detergent oils in the transmission.  NAPA sells a non-detergent 30 wt.  Don't know why non-detergents are prefered, but I do know transmissions are much easier on lubricants than engines.
   Peter S.