AC Owners Club Forum
AC Owners Club Forum => 428 Frua Forum => Topic started by: Damien on December 02, 2007, 09:06:06
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After some long and difficult discussions with the Belgian authorities, I finally have the registration papers of my car and can start with the renovation.
I purchased CF9 http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg86/damienheymans/ac428001.jpg
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg86/damienheymans/ac428007.jpg
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg86/damienheymans/ac428002.jpg
at Bonhams and intend to go for a serious renovation. I already found a rebuilt 427 engine
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg86/damienheymans/Img2747.jpg
and manual gearbox, as well as original Frua seats. However some questions are still open and need your advise.
I found no pictures of CF9 before it was painted black (I know it was white before). The car has airco and the dashboard
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg86/damienheymans/ac428006.jpg
is different from the others. Can this be original ? If not, does somebody has the drawings of the original. I have some good workmanship, but no experience in Fruas.
I was also thinking to convert it to LHD. Some advise on this issue ?
As the engine will go out, I would like to do all the work at once. Some advise on what needs to be checked (the radiator will be replaced).
I am still looking for front bumpers. If somebody can help, I would be gratefull. The windshield is also a topic, as it is OK, but not perfect.
Finally, I hesitate to repaint it in its original white. but does anybody know which white it could have been ?
Thanks in advance for your advise. I hope to have a great car for the summer and if somebody can tell me how to do it, I will insert picutres of the car.
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Hi Damien
Judging by your shopping list and the short distance involved it might pay you to pop over the Channel and have a chat with Andy Shepherd (the Club's 428 Registrar) to plan everything properly first. He's not only just outside London but holds all the original factory records so who better ?
As for pictures if you haven't got one already open a Photobucket account, then when you're ready if you've any problems ask again.
Hope this helps [:)]
Cass
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quote:
Originally posted by Damien
...if somebody can tell me how to do it, I will insert picutres of the car.
Posting Photos Information here, 5th post down. (http://"http://www.racecar.co.uk/acoc/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=145&whichpage=1")
[:D]
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Hi Damien
Nice pics, she looks in excellent condition ! [:)]
One small point. Rather than entering the Photobucket "Direct Link" code beginning with http://.... into any message, you can instead post the actual pictures themselves directly from your Photobucket account onto the Forum by adding the full "IMG" code in the bottom box as illustrated in the pic below. If you accidentally leave anything out no picture will appear at all, so make sure it's all copied and pasted across exactly to the message box. You can then keep clicking the "Preview" button till you've got it right.
(http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p273/classicus/MA200Photobucketexplanation1.jpg)
quote:
the dashboard
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg86/damienheymans/ac428006.jpg
is different from the others. Can this be original ?
Yes, it is the original. Although I'm not 100% sure, to the best of my knowledge your dashboard layout with the long toggle switches, continued up until about CF 48 or 49, when the later versions took over I believe right up to the end on CF 80. No idea about the pop-up headlight prototype CF 81 however - the last 428 made.
Good luck with the restoration ! [:)]
Cass
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Thanks for the advise. Hereby some better pictures of the dashboard. The switches are indeed original. But is this mid console shape original ? It has to vents built in for the airco, for which I also do not know whether it is original.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg86/damienheymans/IMG_1415.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg86/damienheymans/IMG_1417.jpg)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg86/damienheymans/IMG_1414.jpg)
Does anyone has advise for the colour of the car (go back to its original white or not )? The chassis and the all the body panels and sills are in very good condition.
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Unfortunately I've hardly seen any cars with your earlier dashboard layout, however having seen the close-up pics it does look a bit different. I know the factory had a continuous programme of improvements and would happily add extras if required for any brand new car or existing owner, yet although it's only a guess I wouldn't have thought that much would have been altered in the basic package offered between CF 7 and CF 9.
(http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p273/classicus/CF07cockpit.jpg)
In the pic above of CF 7 it's hard to tell if there's a clock or not in the central console, however it is angled back whereas yours looks to be upright - obviously for the airco.
If you haven't already have a look at some of the interior pics on the Register for comparisons as well.
Best of all ask Chuck Maddox who owns CF 7 for his opinion as by the sound of it his car is still very original. In fact in one of his early posts I remember him saying the seats still have the same crease patterns today as in some photos taken in the late 60's ! He might take a few interior photos for you ?
Can't help with the colour question I'm afraid....
Cass [:)]
Incidentally when in Photobucket you can also select the size of pics for display by clicking on "Size" on the top bar. Personally when updating the Register, I prefer to copy and paste all pictures into Word first, then using the measuring rule or bar across the top, left click on the pic itself and slowly reduce the corner squares that appear down to about 3 each time. The size that you do finally select will then be more or less the same size in the final message itself.
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http://www.racecar.co.uk/acoc/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=642
Reference the post in the thread above on 14 November 2007 by Emmanuel
Just remembered this one. I gather that the red 428 in the pics is CF 14 and owned by none less than "Jim Feldman the president of the AC Club in the USA." I would therefore think it's fairly safe to assume that if anyone's going to be keen on getting his car as original as possible he would ! See if you can find any more similar dashboard layout pics to this one then you might well be able to satisfy yourself that this could be the original one.
Hth
Cass [:)]
(http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p273/classicus/CF14cockpit.jpg) (http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p273/classicus/CF14cockpita.jpg)
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Thanks everybody for the help. Does anyone know where to source the ventilation grill on the central console and the two chrome switches for the power windows, I guess.
Has anybody advise on the colour and its impact on the value of the car(back to original white - which white - or any other recomended colours). I tend to prefer darker colours but do not want to spoil the value of the car.
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quote:
Originally posted by Classicus
Classicus Posts: 09 December 2007 : 20:00:16
Unfortunately I've hardly seen any cars with your earlier dashboard layout, however having seen the close-up pics it does look a bit different. I know the factory had a continuous programme of improvements and would happily add extras if required for any brand new car or existing owner, yet although it's only a guess I wouldn't have thought that much would have been altered in the basic package offered between CF 7 and CF 9.
(http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p273/classicus/CF07cockpit.jpg)
In the pic above of CF 7 it's hard to tell if there's a clock or not in the central console, however it is angled back whereas yours looks to be upright - obviously for the airco.
Fortunately, I am the current owner of CF 7 and I can comment on this.
OK, currently #91;and as we received it from Mr. Whitlam from London#93; the upper part of the instrument panel is as pictured. It has the angled back top center swich panel, and the driver's instrument cluster has a 8 guage cluster including: Speedo, Tachy, oil temp, oil pressure, fuel, water temperature, clock, Ampmeter. The clock #91;surprisingly enough#93; is top and center in this guage #91;I would have put the water temp flanked with oil pressure and oil temp personally#93;.
Where the current panel differs is below the central vertical divide of the panel... In the picture above there is a "J" shaped central portion which includes the heater controls and an ash tray... In CF 7 currently, this panel is different, it has a flat panel which fits the contours of the upper more closely, and includes the heater controls and a space for a radio, and a cigar lighter, the ashtray is now mounted on the transmission hump directly on top of the carpet.
quote:
Originally posted by Classicus
If you haven't already have a look at some of the interior pics on the Register for comparisons as well.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg86/damienheymans/IMG_1415.jpg)The switches on your central console are the same as on CF 7 although it looks like they replaced the window lift switches with the same switches used for the windscreen washer moter on CF 7. CF 7 also does NOT have A/C so the upper center panel is entirely different as a result.
The steering wheel looks very much aftermarket to my eyes, and the instruments themselves do not seem to be as well matched as the set in CF 7.quote:
Originally posted by Classicus
Best of all ask Chuck Maddox who owns CF 7 for his opinion as by the sound of it his car is still very original.
Well, you have my opinion... =) As I said the central bottom of CF 7's panel was modified between the time it was tested in all those magazines and the time Mr. Whitlam offered her for sale. Overall I prefer the current lay out to the "J" shaped center bottom panel.
quote:
Originally posted by Classicus
In fact in one of his early posts I remember him saying the seats still have the same crease patterns today as in some photos taken in the late 60's ! He might take a few interior photos for you ?
Can't help with the colour question I'm afraid....
[/quote]
Lighting is going to be a problem for photos #91;and it's a coupe too which restricts shooting angles, but I'll see if I can take a few if I get the chance...
As for color, I can't help you any more than Cass can... Other than to say, I would not be particularly enamoured of the Frua in White. Too plain Vanilla for me. The Frua looks great in nearly any color #91;Pink and white would be a couple of colors I'd try to avoid#93;. I'd recommend looking at the various colors other Frua's are displayed in the registery that Cass is working on, as well as some of the articles I and others have posted for ideas, if you're going to change colors.
I'll see if I can get some snaps taken, but I have been fighting the flu the past week #91;nasty business that#93; am not 100% and I still have Christmas shopping to do and all that.
-- Chuck
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Damien, The center ventilation grill on the red roadster is not original, it's because the car has been fitted with an aftermarket air conditioner. You side vents look original however. The center pod is not original and you are missing the glove box as well. The glove box lock is available and I just saw it at RE-Original. For the steering wheel, Moto Lita was the source of the original and they are still around. The original is 15" and has a much smaller center hub. It's a smaller Cobra wheel without rivets. From the hub number of you current moto Lita wheel, you can identify the origins of the steering columm and order the proper steering hub. On the Cobras, AC used a VW Beetle steering columm, on the 428 I don't know. I know the turn signal pod is Jaguar. Your instrument layout is wrong and the tach and speedo are from a Range Rover, These were also installed on the later 428s with the flat dash (Same as mine), The original one were larger. If you want a source to duplicate the original gage, email me. I know the best shop in the US for that. Everything else looks genuine just poorly upholstered.
Regards,
Emmanuel
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Damien, Glove box lock is Number: N0108
http://www.reoriginals.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=8015
My advice is buy it immediately, They had a new original BOM ashtray and I missed it, I am still mad about it.
Regards,
Emmanuel [:)]
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Thanks Emmanuel, I have ordered it and I will send you an e-mail as I am interested in the original gauges.
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Hi Damien, did you talk to Margaret? She is truly very good at what she does, probaly the best in the US
Emmanuel
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Hi Damien, we have got to work on these front bumpers. I have got to go over there to that guy and drop my bumpers. I will let you know. Sorry for the delay.
Emmanuel
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My apologies for not being more active on the forum as of late. In mid-December I was felled by a severe case of Intestinal Flu [which I'm still not really 100% recovered from]. Additionally, the weather here has been intermittent lousy to unbearable the past couple of weeks.
Taking pictures of the cockpit area of CF 7 is still on my To-Do list for the benefit of Damien and CF 9, but I'd just as soon wait until a day when here isn't several inches of snow just outside the garage door [which I would probably have open for more available light...
With the news of the recent "check in" by the current owner of CF 6 it would seem that perhaps we should redouble our efforts to try to locate CF8 so we have a nice little string of early examples...
My best wishes to all participants here for a Safe and Prosperous New Year!
-- Chuck
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quote:
Originally posted by Emmanueld
Hi Damien, did you talk to Margaret? She is truly very good at what she does, probaly the best in the US
Emmanuel
Emmanuel,
The e-mail address you have given me does not seem to exist, and I did not yet find the time to call her, but I will do so;
Best wishes,
Damien
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I hope she is still in business, I have to send her my tach, I will call on Wednesday!
Emmanuel
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Picture of early 428 dash! Clock and water temp gage not original! Instruments are very similar to the MKIII except speedometer is not reverse rotation as in the big Cobra SC.
(http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q271/Emmanueld_2007/AC_Frura_428_68.jpg)
Emmanuel [:)]
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Emmanuel
Don't want to be pedantic but I question your posting on 15 December re the steering wheel being Motalita. All the pictures I have show the Cobra wheel but not the 428 having 9 plugs presumably over rivets as you mention and the tapered slots in the spokes look wider on the Cobra than on the 428. The wheel on CF6 was made by Walsall Wheels Ltd. This is engraved next to the rim on the back of the spoke at 6 o'clock. If you turn the wheel 1/2 a turn to get this to the top and use a mirror you may see the same marking on your wheel - or perhaps not? Probably academic as I suspect Walsall Wheels are no longer in business and so Motalita is the first port of call. But apart from the cosmetic differences there may be differences in diameter (CF6 is 15 3/8"), dishing and hub size (CF6 is 48 spline and , I think but haven't checked, 3/4" OD). Just a cautionary note for Damien.
I have always thought the indicator/horn/headlight stalk switch was UK Ford (Cortina etc). CF6 switch is Lucas 35744A; the shroud round the column and switch is fibreglass which looks like home made at Thames Ditton. Surely Jaguar shrouds were all plastic mouldings?
Regards
Michael
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Michael Hi,
You are not being pedantic, you might be right, I have not seen any name stamped on my wheel but I will check again. Moto Lita said they were the supplier for AC in the 60s'. AC might have used more than one source. Oh well, even if they were not, they probably could make one! I had to replace the stalk and we used a Jaguar sedan which looked exactly the same. I am more familiar with the Cobra steering assembly than that of the Frua. Do you know for sure where it came from? Also your car is an early model and mine is a late one so!!!!!!! My car is equipped with a steering lock and yours probably is not. I will post some picture of the column to see if somebody can identify. What do you think?
Regards,
Emmanuel
Emmanuel
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Damien, I just spoke to Margaret, she is still in business and I am sending her my tach to be modified for Electronic ignition use.
Emmanuel [:)]
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Emmanuel,
Do you have her mail address ?
Kind regards,
Damien
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Damien, I will give you her address tomorrow from the office,
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg86/damienheymans/Img2747.jpg)
Is this the motor Dennis built? I did not see it finished! you ended up using iron heads.
Emmanuel [:)]
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Emmanuel,
The heads are aluminium,the intake manifold is an alu police interceptor.
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg86/damienheymans/Img2753.jpg)
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quote:
Originally posted by Classicus
Unfortunately I've hardly seen any cars with your earlier dashboard layout, however having seen the close-up pics it does look a bit different. I know the factory had a continuous programme of improvements and would happily add extras if required for any brand new car or existing owner, yet although it's only a guess I wouldn't have thought that much would have been altered in the basic package offered between CF 7 and CF 9.
(http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p273/classicus/CF07cockpit.jpg)
In the pic above of CF 7 it's hard to tell if there's a clock or not in the central console, however it is angled back whereas yours looks to be upright - obviously for the airco.
If you haven't already have a look at some of the interior pics on the Register for comparisons as well.
Best of all ask Chuck Maddox who owns CF 7 for his opinion as by the sound of it his car is still very original. In fact in one of his early posts I remember him saying the seats still have the same crease patterns today as in some photos taken in the late 60's ! He might take a few interior photos for you ?
Hi guys!
Even though the weather is still lousy, and the lighting conditions are even worse, I managed to get a quick snapshot of CF7's interior today... I apologize for the terrible appearance of the interior. I really need to hit it with a bottle of ArmorAll:
(http://home.xnet.com/~cmaddox/motorin/frua/CF7/CF7_interior_800.jpg)
For the most part this was the way the interior was configured when we picked it up about this time of year in 1976... The only addition is the AM/FM/CB/Cassette desk in the center with the especially cheesy plastic mock-wood bezel. At least it's reasonably close to the steering wheel wood trim color.
As you can see the configuration of the dash is different than it was during CF7's testing days, with the removal of the J shaped panel where the Ash Tray say, replaced with a more upright center dash area with the ashtray affixed to the transmission hump. You can also see the "direct from a 1966/7 Ford parts bin "T" handle which contrasts sharply from the later Automatic model's inverted "U" shaped shifter.
I hope this is of some assistance to Damien and CF9 and I remain available for additional queries should that be beneficial. I promise to ArmorAll the interior when the weather turns for the better in Spring.
Cheers!
-- Chuck
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Just for fun, here is the motor Dennis built for my Kirkham:
JE piston, Crowler billet rods, Edelbrock heads, big 830 Holley double pumper.
(http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q271/Emmanueld_2007/AK02/My%20Aston%20V8/103_0353.jpg)
(http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q271/Emmanueld_2007/AK02/My%20Aston%20V8/103_0376.jpg)
The rods are like jewels!
Regards,
Emmanuel
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Work has started on my car. I will post pictures later. The body and chassis are in very nice condition but the engine compartment is being sorted out before the new engine and the manual gearbox comes in (I have a big box full of useless wires, fuses, airco system, etc.... that former owners installed). I also found the original dashboard shape behind the added console (see pictures). This will make work on the dashboard much easier.
I have two questions in the meantime : 1. does anybody know where the chrome switches for the electrical windows come from and where I can find them. 2. I have to refurbish or replace the suspension units, what do you advise and where can I source these parts. 3. There are 2 servo's for the brakes on my car, one for the front, one for the rear (which is disconnected). What is the original layout ?
Can anybody help ? Thanks all for your cooperation.
Damien
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For the suspension get in touch with Gerry at Hawk Cars.
You may find that getting the switches rebuilt is easier than finding exact replacements (something that I am considering for my dash switches).
Let us know how you get on.
Cliff.
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Thanks Clifford, but the original switches have been replaced by push-button ones. I therefore need to try to find the originals.
Kind regards, Damien
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Try the following web site 'www.s-v-c.co.uk' they have a range of switches & if not the correct type they may be able to assist.
Robin
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Damien, Hi
Yes, the Frua has a complete dual brake system, 2 master cylinders actuated by the pedal through a balance rod, 2 lines each going to each booster. As you said, front brakes are actuated by one booster and rear by the other. It is quite a simple system. The boosters and master cylinders are Girling and are standard, available anywhere. 60's Lambos used a similar system except the boosters are in the trunk. I will let you know which operate the front and the rear brakes, I have to look under the hood. If you are missing the window switches, good luck, I could not source them anywhere, let me know if you find any!
By the way, I have found a place for the steering wheel, I am going to send mine to be refinished there, If you are interested you can talk to the guy and have him copy it! He is in Florida, let me know. [:)]
Regards,
Emmanuel
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Damien, Hi
On my car, the right master cylinder controls the right booster and the front brakes.
Regards,
Emmanuel
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Damien, I have to find another place for the wheel, Mike Lampert says he can reproduce any flat wheel but he does not have the tooling to do dished ones. The wood is no problem of course. So I have find somebody else!
There is always Bill Rau, he is the best with wood, but we might have the same problem with making the aluminum frame! The good thing! he is a few blocks from my house! I know a machinist next to my office who specializes in aircraft parts, he is very good and he has CNC machines , I will ask him if I give him the frame can he reproduce.
http://www.rau-autowood.com/rroc.htm
Emmanuel
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Thanks Emmanuel, I am still very interested in a faithfull reproduction of the original steering wheel.
Kind regards,
Damien
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I will start painting the car shortly. Does anybody have the code of a dark blue used originally by AC ?
Damien
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Damian,
I believe the name of the blue is Guardsman Blue and I have just had CF64 repainted in its original colour.
The guys that painted the car punched in Guardsman Blue and got the answer that it is an AC specific colour and obtained the formula.
Good Luck
Peter
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Thaks for the tip. Work is progressing well on the car :
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg86/damienheymans/DSC00961.jpg);
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg86/damienheymans/DSC00962.jpg);
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg86/damienheymans/DSC00963.jpg)
and I have two further questions.
Firstly, it seems that one of transfer boxes of the chassis has been 'moved' (see picture). Is this original because of the lengthening of the Cobra cahssis ?
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg86/damienheymans/DSC00937.jpg);
Secondly, I am looking for a dust protection cap of the suspension end (see picture), does anybody know where I can source it ?
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg86/damienheymans/DSC00939.jpg)
Regards,
Damien
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Hi Damien,
I use the dust cover from a Jaguar XJ axle in my MK IV. Look here at the bottom of the page http://www.racecar.co.uk/acoc/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=224&whichpage=3
Maybe this works also for you.
Regards, Peter
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Can anybody tell me where I can get the formula of Guardsman Blue ?
Kind regards,
Damien
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Gerry Hawk at Hawk Cars has had the caps made up IIRC 01892 750341.
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Damien, Do you have the 4 small square tubes welded at the back of the inner fenders? Also the holes at the back are not original and may help cooling or may help pass on heat inside the cabin! Without the tubes, the inner fender will warp once the accessories are attached!
(http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q271/Emmanueld_2007/428/IMGP1445.jpg)
(http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q271/Emmanueld_2007/IMGP1335.jpg)
I know that this crossmember is differently placed on the Frua than on the MKIII. I tried to install a full Cobra 427 Aviad Oil pan and the crossmember got in the way. It seems that AC moved it forward on the Frua. The Mustang Aviad pan fits fine by the way. It could be that on your car (Early model) the factory used a leftover Cobra 427 chassis and modified it for the Frua! Small companies do that. If you give me the distance between the tube front and the back of the motor mount, I can compare with mine and see if it is the same! Why? I think it has to do with the motor mounts which are much taller on the Frua. Bringing the crossmember closer to the engine might reduce engine vibrations and flex! Pure speculation on my part. Also your car is equipped with anti sway bar mounts which had to be added on mine. You could get a 3/4" anti sway bar from Kirkham and bolt it right in! Great handling improvement! Also, now is the time to move the steering to the other side if you want to do it! I am thinking about the brake pedal assembly which is begging to be moved to the left! very easy to do at this point! just reverse the panels or make new ones. If you plan to do the conversion, just make sure your engine with exhaust manifolds and Transmission are in place. the steering shaft is so close to the engine that you might have a problem if you don't do it that way. We are talking about a 1/2" here.
Emmanuel[:)]
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Emmanuel,
Yes I have the square small tubes on my car, they are all in good shape.
The distance between the crossmembers is 54,5 cm.
Regards,
Damien
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Hi Damian,
I believe that the formula for Guardsman Blue will be obtainable by your local car resprayer from the paint manufacturers data base which is accessed via the internet.
Just spoke to my guy who confirms that the code is Ford America "F" in Deltron Base Coat. Hope this helps.
Peter
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Hi Damien,
I meant the distance between engine mounts and crossmember right behind them. 6".
Emmanuel
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Damien Hi,
Did you relocate the steering to the left?
Regards,
Emmanuel
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Hi Emmanuel,
I will not change the steering and leave it in it's original RHD.
Regards,
Damien
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The guy who is refurbishing my car has put it on its website.
Some additional pictures can be found on : http://vdvgrant.be/workshop_details.php?id=4
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Damien,
On your car restorers website there is a picture of the fresh air blower by "Smiths" it looks to be brand new, if so I need two of them urgently.
Any information much appreciated.
Peter
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Damien,
On your car restorers website there is a picture of the fresh air blower by "Smiths" it looks to be brand new, if so I need two of them urgently.
Any information much appreciated.
Peter
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Peter
Bought some blowers for mine a couple of years ago from Thunder Road,brand new not reconditioned,think they were £200 each.
The guy said they were the same as P5 Rovers if you can find any down under.Had no luck up here.
Dave
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David,
Thanks for the tip I am on it and now trying to chase down P5 Rovers.
Cheers
Peter
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Peter,
The blowers are not new but reconditioned by the guys working on my car.
Kind regards,
Damien
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Hi Damien,
Wow am greatly impressed by the apparent quality, fantastic.
I have found a pair of Smiths Blowers that are the same size but are metal rather than plastic, so will go with them and keep an eye out for a match of my other one.
Cheers
Peter
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Dear all,
Can somebody help me with finding a steering wheel and front bumpers for my car.
For the front bumpers, I can have them chromed myself, so I just need an steel copy of the original bumpers.
Regards,
Damien
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Try Motolita for the wheel, mine is I believe Les Lester - the English equivalent back in the day.
Good luck with bumpers, do you have any to copy?
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Les Leston, not Lester. They appear to be rather pricey though!
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Thanks for the steering wheel.
Concerning the front bumpers, the fact that I have none to copy is exactly my problem.
If anybody could have his copied, I would be very happy.
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I thought the drive shaft on the Frua was an MGB. But I have compared the one in my car with several MGB models and they are different. Does anyone know which type of driveshaft was precisely mounted into the Frua ? I own the CF9, i.e. an early model.
Regards,
Damien
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Damien
Have just spotted the Harrington Ad on ebay.co.uk for stainless steel Frua bumpers item no. 270283921635 or just search foe AC 428.
Might be just what you need.
Cliff.
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Damien, You can have a drive shaft made. There are ton of companies out here doing this. Measure the length you need, the size and bolt pattern of the flanges and here you go. But why do you need a new drive shaft? You have one that came with the car. The 4 speed transmission is a perfect bolt on, no need to change the drive shaft. On my car it was a shoe in! Regards, Emmanuel
By the way, I bought one of these bumper sets! We will see.
Emmanuel
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Damien, This occurred to me, make sure you remove the yoke at the end of the automatic box, it just pulls out! You then slide it at the rear of the Toploader box. Now if you have the correct Torino tail shaft with the big spline, it should go in just fine. If the motor is in the right place the original drive shaft will bolt right in since the C6 and the Toploader with the Torino tail shaft are exactly the same length and have the same large spline. The reason why I picked this tail shaft is precisely because you can reuse the original drive shaft. Let me know!
Emmanuel
PS, The MGB drive shaft would never be strong enough to handle the torque of your engine even if you could fit it! [;)]
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Emmanuel, Thanks for your input but I used the wrong terminology in my translation. The issue is with the steering rack. I thought it is an MGB, but the one in my car seems not to be. Does anybody know what type of steering rack it precisely is.
Regards,
Damien
PS I just bought one of these bumpers sets, thanks for the tip.
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Damien Hi, easy, even though the rack was sourced from MG, I think it is the MGC version with longer tie rods. Maybe the rack on your car was modified or replaced at some point. Talk to David or Tom Kirkham, they should be able to help you since the 427 markIII rack is the same. I have bought quite a few parts there. [:)] http://www.kirkhammotorsports.com
Regards,
Emmanuel
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Dear all,
My car is progressing slowly but well.
I will have to make the choice of my colour soon. Originally, it was white. But does anyone know which type of white AC used (creamy white or real white) and where I can get the code.
Here are some additional pictures.
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg86/damienheymans/DSC01392.jpg
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg86/damienheymans/DSC01402.jpg
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg86/damienheymans/DSC01398.jpg
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg86/damienheymans/DSC01394.jpg
Kind regards,
Damien Heymans
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Damien
Re window switches : On CF6 all the window gear including switches is by Bertone and I guess they supplied all Italian makers in the 60's including perhaps Alfa and Fiat for their top of the range saloons.Suggest you try Classic Alfa (www.classicalfa.co.uk) or similar source for Fiat. Incidentally, CF6 was wired with no earth wires to the motors, relying apparently on an earth return through the door hinges. If CF9 is the same I suggest you run third wires from earths in the car to the motor bodies. Hope this is helpful if you havent found suitable switches. Good luck - what you have shown us looks impressive.
Michael
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Hi Michael, I have yet to identify the window switches, they are of a type I have never seen before or since! As far as the color, I think it is called old English white, it is almost ivory, a pretty color. I had painted the stripes on my Kirkham that color. I will verify the name for you.
Emmanuel
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Hello,
My tacho and rev counter seem electrical drivenand not mechanically.
Is this original ?
Kind regards,
Damien
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Yes the tach is electrical the speedo is mechanical.
Emmanuel
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Emmanuel,
If you could get the exact name of the color, it would be great.
Also for the exhaust, I will replace the pick-up collectors with stainless steel ones.
There is however nearly no place at the side of the steering shaft.
How did you solve it ? Do you have one pipe going around it ?
Regards,
Damien
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Sorry for delay, as far as the color I will post it later on, for the headers, they were custom built to clear the steering shaft. It was a friend of Dennis who did it starting with Sanderson shorties, cheaper that way. Then they were ceramic coated inside out for duration and heat reduction. Your car is a right hand drive, so it will be different.
Emmanuel [:D]
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The renovation is progressing well and the car is driving again.
I will post some pictures in a short while.
In the meantime, I am looking for a steering wheel, the dimensions and the lock for the glove compartment.
Can anybody also tell what kind of speakers where in the car and where I can source similar ones.
Thanks for your help,
Damien
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My CF9 is now at the paint shop (pictures will follow).
the guy is telling me that the sills, the hood, the sills and the trunck are made of aluminium.
I thought the car was made out of steel. Does this meen that these parts are not original ?
Kind regards,
Damien
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My car is progressing well.
Here some pictures :
(http://i785.photobucket.com/albums/yy139/DamienHeymans007/ac428009.jpg)
(http://i785.photobucket.com/albums/yy139/DamienHeymans007/ac428003.jpg)
(http://i785.photobucket.com/albums/yy139/DamienHeymans007/ac428002.jpg)
(http://i785.photobucket.com/albums/yy139/DamienHeymans007/IMG_6728.jpg)
(http://i785.photobucket.com/albums/yy139/DamienHeymans007/IMG_6713.jpg)
I am now looking for two small black handels of the dashboard switches and for the locker of the glovebox. Can somebody help ?
Kind regards,
Damien
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She's beautiful, I still get a wonderful kick every time I see a 428 !! Looking very, very nice indeed.
Well done ! [8D]
(http://i785.photobucket.com/albums/yy139/DamienHeymans007/IMG_6728.jpg)
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Did the windscreen fit ok in the end ?
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It fitted perfectly. The dashboard is now mounted, so I am looking for these small black handles and the lock of the glovebox. I will post further pictures later.
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Hi Damien, nice car, The lock for the glove box should be available from Re-originals, www.reoriginals.com. I have a question about the windshield and rubber! Where did you source them from? Could you let me know? Did you get the rubber from my guy in LA? Thanks
Regards,
Emmanuel
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Dear Emmanuel,
I got the windscreen at CCS Windscreens:
Telephone :- 00441245 490590
Fax :- 00441245 352301
Website :- www.ccswindscreens.co.uk
We have reused the existing rubber. I was not able to source the original rubber.
Thanks for th tip on the locker. You have no idea where I can find these small handles for the dashboard switches ?
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Emmanuel, They do not have this glove box lock any more at re-originals. Any idea ?
Regards,
Damien
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Let me see, there is a guy selling Alfa bit over here in LA let me try to remember!
Regards,
Emmanuel
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You know, I am pretty sure the lock is an Alfa piece. Check with: http://arricambi.com/index.htm
Alfa Ricambi! or Alfaollics in the UK: http://www.alfaholics.com/parts_by_car/
Emmanuel. PS, If you want a picture of the thing, I can accommodate.
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Thanks Emmanuel,
I picture would indeed be helpfull.
Kind regards
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Your welcome, the car is in the shop, I am going there on Friday, I will post this week end.
Regards,
Emmanuel
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Can anybody post photo of the 428 interior rear view mirror? I think it is the same as the Scimitar. I may have the name wrong.
Thanks E
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My steering wheel is finally not fitting. Can anybody tell me where to find the right steering wheel (and which one it is precisely) ?
Thanks,
Damien
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Damien, If I remember correctly, your car had a Moto-Lita or Grant steering wheel on! Correct? If you still have it, look at the hub, there should be a number stamped on it and find out from Moto-Lita what is the hub made for. I hope this will tell us where the steering column came from. (Providing of course that the hub was not machined)
I think the easiest thing after that is to fit a replica Cobra wheel. I will measure mine to see if it is 15" or 16". To make it look like the original, you will have to have a wood guy remove the rivets and install new wood as the 428 wheel does not have rivets. The hub will have to be machined to fit your column. FYI, Cobras had VW beetle steering columns. Your car is the later car like mine and I would love to find out where the steering column came from, maybe we can from your Moto-Lita hub![?]
Thanks,
Emmanuel
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Emmanuel,
Thanks, I will look what I can do. I do not have the original steering wheel.
My steering column is an MGC (early car).
Kind regards,
Damien
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While you guys must have checked this source, just in case you have not seen this, here's a link to Moto-lita. They claim to have been the original suppliers to AC, and can provide a replacement to original specs. http://www.moto-lita.co.uk/our-products/Wheel_Details_01.aspx?WH_ID=26
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(they say they can make the wheel and hub to your specifications - no need to have someone else remove the rivets or manufacture the hub - if they can make what you need from scratch)
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BTW, my Steering wheel is covered with black leather. Looks like it came that way, not covered after-the-fact.
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The car is getting close to completion.
Some picture :
http://i785.photobucket.com/albums/yy139/DamienHeymans007/voiturefinietdb.jpg
http://i785.photobucket.com/albums/yy139/DamienHeymans007/voiturefinieflanc.jpg
http://i785.photobucket.com/albums/yy139/DamienHeymans007/voiturefinieavant.jpg
http://i785.photobucket.com/albums/yy139/DamienHeymans007/voiturefinieintrieur.jpg
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Beautiful! I really like the color (colour) -very elegant and purposeful. Also the wheels - They look like they belong to the car. Good cross between the original Chrome spokes and the Pin drive wheels of the big-block Cobras. Who makes these wheels?
Emmanuel and I were visiting our cars at Dennis Cann's yesterday, and I looked at the wires of an original 289 Cobra - looked identical to mine. But those cars were considerably lighter than ours, so it's possible they might not be entirely adequate - depending on how aggressively one drives. Emmanuels car makes better than 500 hp and huge torque, so it's not inconceivable he could rip the spokes right off the hub. He's got pin drives now.
Your interior is really nice, and is the same as my (old, and now a little tatty) early version. Where did you find the switches and window lift controls? Mine are the same, but missing some of the pictograms. (this information is probably in here somewhere. It would be nice if all the bits and pieces were listed in one place)
Anyway - Good job!
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The wheels were on the car when I bought it, and I had them polished (and new pins placed). I think this are Wolfrace wheels.
The switches were also on the car, as you can see, two are not original, and I will have the originals copied. The window switches come from an Aston Martin DB4 (this is as close to the original as I have found).
As my car is also fitted with a 427 making around 400hp, my workshop guys have strongly recommended me not to go back to wire wheels.
Kind regards,
Damien
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I did find the correct switches online, but neglected to bookmark the page. Ridiculous! I'm pretty sure they were used on Maserati, but have forgotten which model. So I'll have another look - but I did just find what I think are the decals that go on the switches. here's a link: http://www.cartype.com/pages/349/maserati_plaques_stickers_and_badges
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Maserati Ghibli/Lucas. I just found them on ebay. Here's a link to the windshield wiper switch;
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Maserati-Ghibli-Windshield-Wiper-Switch-Lucas-OEM-/160437814919?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item255ad6c687#ht_566wt_858
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We have now tested the car and another problem arises.
The original water hose leading to the water tank is higher than the water tank.
This leads the air of the water tank to go into the engine when driven a little bit harder and that prevents cooling (at low speeds, there is no problem). The air indeed makes a kind of 'mayonnaise' with the liquid.
How did you guys solve this issue ?
Kind regards,
Damien
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I just had Moto Lita on the phone. They indeed claim to have made the Cobra wheels, but not the Frua one (full wooden rim) and they cannot make it. Has anybody an idea on who might be able to make it ?
Best regards,
Damien
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Hi Damien, do you have the original header tank and radiator? if not this would explain the problem. Can you send or post a pick of your engine bay. you may have to raise the header tank. Emmanuel
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Damien - I don't understand "photobucket", so I can't post a photo of my steering wheel, but it's different than Emmanuel's. Many bits on the car came from Italian suppliers. Who knows, really, how much of the interior was supplied by Frua? AC certainly had their own trimmers. The (by then) antique heating and ventilation controls were used by Aston Martin and other manufacturers (including AC) in the 1950's. I have a Bristol 404, with exactly the same unit. The switches on your car (and mine) were made by lucas, but used in Italian cars. The elegant chromed spiral springs that hold up my bonnet disappeared on later models. Did they run out of them? Was it an attempt to cut costs?
The little AC company probably had to source parts from many suppliers over the 8 year period in which they managed to produce just 81 cars. There are significant differences between Emmanuel's car and mine. Economy and availability were no doubt big considerations for them.
I looked for Alfa steering wheels - partly because Alfa parts appear on Fruas. Here's a link to an Alfa steering wheel, which is only slightly similar to the Moto lita Cobra wheels, but the spokes are similar. Hub is different, but it's clad in black leather (as is mine), and has no rivets. Maybe the Wheel you are looking for is Italian. ?????????
The "air in the cooling system" problem is a shared concern. I bought a new Flowmaster radiator, hoping it would help. Emmanuel has recently had cooling problems as well, thought to be a defective thermostat. But it could be due to air getting into the system. Emmanuel's car has a secondary overflow tank, which he thinks is "original". It is clearly a problem Ford was successful in solving in the hundreds of thousands of Big Block automobiles and trucks they manufactured, but a persistent problem for Frua's.
Here's the link to the (incorrect) Alfa steering wheel.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Alfa-Romeo-Giulia-Spider-Sprint-Steering-Wheel-/120581284229?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c13346185#ht_500wt_911
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If you have problems posting photos,email them over and I will put them up for you - bryan dot mo at btinternet dot com.
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Thanks for the input. I will put a Cobra steering wheel on my car until I find an original one.
Concerning the heating, the technical solution is easy. The water tank needs to be put higher than the whose leading to the engine, so the air stays in the water tank. The problem of the AC is that the bonnet does not allow that at the place the water tank is.
With my new radiator, the cooling liquid is at 95°C at the top and below 80°C at the bottom, which means it works perfectly. When driven harder however the air is sucked into the water hose, mixes in tiny bubles with the coolant, creating a kind of mayonnaise that does not do the cooling job any more.
I will look how I can solve it technically.
Best regards,
Damien
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Damien, my steering wheel is 15.5" OD, just get a cobra wheel and modify it to look like a 428 wheel. I am going to remove mine an install a Moto-Lita as soon as I get the hub. I will send it to be refinished. This is just a temporary thing, I am not changing the wheel! [:)]Emmanuel
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Damien, it's looking very impressive in the photos - congratulations. Is the paint Guardsman Blue? Do remember not to have your head under the bootlid on a windy day - an AC design error in my view to put the lower pivot of the gas strut too near to the line of the hinge pins. On CF6 I moved the pivot pin down and further back and a longer strut holds the lid against a wind and assists the opening of the lid. What are the 'small black handles' on the dash you were looking for?
Re your cooling/air in the water concerns - I assume your header tank is the original or repro Serck rectangular tank mounted so it slopes down to the front and the front pipe stub is in line with the rad stub. You are right that air bubbles circulating in the water are a BAD THING. Air in the water reduces heat transfer in the radiator, may cause local boiling in the very hot parts near the exhaust valves and at high rpm may encourage cavitation in the pump inlet. I reckon the capacity of the header tank is about 4 pints(Imperial) and the expansion of the CF6 system from cold to hot is normally about 2 pints but has been to 2 1/4 ; let's work on 2 1/4 pints. If your header tank were full when hot with no air in the system then when cold it would have drawn in 2 1/4 pints of air. The inlet and outlet pipes will be uncovered and air will go into the circulating system at the next start. So I think your problem is lack of an expansion tank rather than height of tank or hoses. A single header/expansion tank can work but it needs to be bigger and higher than the rectangular Serck and preferably not part of the circulating system.
Apart from CF1 I think all 428's probably have an expansion tank in addition to the Serck header tank. With this setup the header tank has a plain cap sealing on the top lip of the neck, the pipe from the neck to the expansion tank is pressurised and has hose clips and the expansion tank has the 13psi pressure cap. All 428's I have seen have a black painted expansion tank with a distinctive kidney shape taken from BMC 1300 and 1800's of the 60's. I think this was a design error because the tank has a volume of only 2 pints and the feed pipe which goes in from the side stops 1/4 pint from the bottom so it can only cope with up to 1 3/4 pints of expansion without dumping water on the road and/or drawing air back to the header tank on cooling down. I think it can just about work without topping up but the cold levels would be 1/4 pint of water in the bottom of the expansion tank and 1/2 pint of air in the header tank some of which might get circulated. I found this impossible to judge and could never resist the temptation to top up both tanks. In the discussions about 'overheating' I haven't seen any reference to topping up and wonder how much of this other owners do.
I replaced the original expansion tank with a BMW tank which is translucent plastic, designed for 13psi, has a neck which takes the original AC-Delco cap, is a suitable shape and can just cope with 2 1/4 pints of expansion. I mounted it on the RH inner wing panel above the alternator/front end of the rocker cover and have a cold level line on it so I can check this without removing the cap. The header tank is completely full hot and cold. Since 2004, doing 2 or 3 thousand miles a year I have topped up only at the end of the season when it will need about 1/4 pint to restore cold level which I think reflects coolant loss from pushing damp air out and drawing dry air back in.
On the road indicated temperature, depending on ambient air temerature, is 80 to 90C (88 to 93 true).The electric fan switches on/off at 115/102 indicated (103/99 true at the sensor) in slow traffic and idling. The Otter thermoswitch in the header tank for the fan makes at 90 and I have a manual switch in parallel and a 'fan on' warning light so I can switch the fan on before I reach a traffic jam.This all seems to work OK and I think you should not worry about the number the needle points at if no topping up is needed because, by definition, it has not overheated or lost water.
For those still reading this I add a few general points. Discussion of 'overheating' has focussed on water, engine bay and car interior temperatures. On the water temperature issue I think the larger expansion tank is a good start plus: 1. Cure all water leaks - even a small one will lose significant water with hot 13psi water behind it over time.2. Pressure cap valve lift at 13psi is vital to maintain system pressure and is worth checking regularly. At 13psi water boils at about 117C and this is important to maintain a safety margin over water temperature. 3. Fit a big fan. I have a 16" Kenlowe; it pulls 21 amps but shifts 2320 CFM in free air and about 1900 CFM installed - still only about the same as 15mph. The matrix of my radiator is 19.5" wide x 17.25" high x 2.75" deep. Is this a typical size? 4. I think you must have a thermostat to get a fast warmup and reduce engine wear which is dramatically higher at low temperature. I reckon opening at 74C and fully open at 86C is about right in the UK. 5. For most of us who see highest temperatures at idle/low speed an aluminium Edelbrock water pump is worth considering. They claim higher, but unquantified, flow rate at low rpm and I was prepared to believe this having seen the crude 'paddle wheel' impeller in the original Ford pump which also weighs a ton. 6. With a header tank always full there is a case to eliminate it.I think the Cobra Mk1V has a header/expansion tank with a system filler in the pipework at the highest point. I kept my header as it's a convenient place for the Otter fan switch and I thought the internal baffle directing the water flow under the filler neck would capture any air bubbles (inevitable when you have drained the system).
So far as engine bay temperature is concerned I didn't like the fierce heat which hits you when you open the bonnet after a fast run and in years of motoring the 428 is the only car in which I have experienced fuel vapourisation. I think you should have a minimum of fuel pipework in the engine bay and insulate it where you can. I fitted 2 extraction fans to draw air out and through the side vents which seem otherwise to be more decorative than functional.These shift 1200 CFM of air total and lowered the engine bay temperature by about 6C on test with no noticeable effect on water temperature. However this modest reduction takes some of the sting out of the heat and I think has avoided fuel vapourisation which has only happened at idle/low speed. Incidentally I don't understand the aerodynamic theories we have heard and the talk of bonnet louvres. Whilst I would expect louvres to lower engine bay temperature I doubt they would have significant effect on water temperature except perhaps at very high speeds. I wouldn't want to change the lovely lines of the car but if you were to add bonnet louvres I would have thought 1/3 to 1/2 way back from the front end would be a low pressure area to put them whereas the rear end of the bonnet just ahead of the screen is a high pressure area - isn't that why modern cars have their interior heating/ventilating air intakes there? And is there evidence that an Aceca with louvres runs cooler than an Ace without but otherwise the same ahead of the screen?
So far as excessive heat in the interior is concerned I think the solution is don't drive a fastback, do drive a convertible with the soft top down, don't drive in California, don't have an auto, do have good footwell fresh air from the fans at the front end with the ducting going above the front wheels outside the engine bay and, if all else fails, follow Emmanuel's advice on heat insulation to isolate you from that 7 litre space heater!
I hope Damien that you (and others) may find some of this helpful and that it may elicit other/differing views and experiences. The 428 is a super car and I hope you get as much enjoyment and fun out yours as I have from mine.
Michael
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All sounds like good advice to me. CF25 runs a large aluminium rad and edelbrock water pump but original expansion tank. In the current hot weather even with roof down my feet get heated so I guess one day I'll get around to an Emmanuel style heat proofing exercise still it's nice in the winter. The water temp was getting over 100 degrees so on the advice of Thunder Road I added 'water wetter' which has dropped things by a good 10 degrees or more.
BTW Thunder Road did a great job for me on sorting out some rather dodgy old electrics and fitting Hawk Cars new shocks along with a complete suspension refurb/re-bushing. Getting to the point where the car is almost reliable..
Oil temp still goes well over 100 degrees so a cooler is next on my list of improvements.
Happy motoring
Cliff.
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Michael,
I agree with what you wrote with one exception. The configuration of the header tank and recovery bottle. The pressure cap has to go on the header tank at the highest point to let the air escape and the recovery bottle down below must have a non pressured cap. Otherwise, you will have trapped air in your system and loose too much coolant. My car still has its original radiator which has been cleaned and runs cool below the 90 degrees mark. The electric fan has been replaced by a much larger one. I drove it in 110 degrees heat a week ago and although it ran hotter than usual, it was steady at about 100 degrees in traffic and back to 90 on the highway. Remember, the engine is a 454 cubic inch which generates more heat than a 428. The car has a 5 speed box and the gear ratio is a bit long despite the 3.08 conversion. I think the perfect compromise will be 3.31 with that gearbox. We were able to install the gearbox without any major modification to the car so all is well. It was basically an easy swap. The heat inside the car is now tolerable but I need to take it for an afternoon drive to know for sure.
I am planning on adding some openings on the hood to let the hot air escape, Probably like on the Ferrari Daytona or the Maserati Ghibli. A hood scoop like on the 427 Cobra would work well for cold air intake, but we have to see if it will work with the car design.
Emmanuel [:)]
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Just to clarify my understanding of the purpose of the overflow tank: the header tank must not allow air to be drawn in when the coolant is contacting (cooling). the vacuum in the header tank draws coolant from the overflow, thereby keeping the header tank topped up, right?
So far, I've replaced the original radiator with a larger aluminum one. The Transmission cooler has been repurposed as an engine oil cooler. The C6 auto box has been replaced with a Tremec T5. The Intake manifold has been replaced with the nearly identical Police Interceptor Aluminum intake. The heads have been replaced by Aluminum Edelbrock heads. Edelbrock (aluminum) water pump in place of the original cast iron lump. New ceramic coated stainless steel headers and exhaust. Insulation, a la Emmanuel.
We shall see what effect all this has on performance and heat issues. As my car is a fastback, and it lives in Southern California, Air Conditioning is still an option. I certainly have no need of a heater, so I expect that will be going as well.
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Hi Guys,
Sounds like you are all having great fun with your 428s in a lovely climate. No need for a heater - wow!
I am no expert on this model, but my sketchy recollection from the late 1960s is that AC fitted a footwell cold air vent (inward bound!) to the Autocar road test Fastback during the test - at Autocar's request! A fine example of AC's bespoke service!
The test car was CF7. If you can locate the present owner the chances are the vent is still fitted.
Enjoy!
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Hello ACOArch - Yep!... "cold air" vents in the footwells. My car has them, though the ductwork runs through the engine compartment, where the "cold air" gets nice and toasty before it actually gets to the footwells. That, too, will be changed by re-routing the ducts through the wheel arches (where they were subsequently placed in later models).
Emmanuel will be doing bonnet modifications to facilitate the flow of air through the engine compartment ( therefore eliminating back pressure, hopefully improving air flow through the radiator and reducing hot air flowing into the passenger compartment). Also we hope to fashion a subtile way to bring denser, cold air to the Carb. Making the decorative side vents actually function will be a part of the endeavor to pull air out of the engine compartment.
An odd thing about CFX29 (my car) - all the dated engine parts and transmission were from 1967, just late enough to have been 1968 model year parts. Yet my car 'left the factory' in 1969 and was shipped to Montreal, Canada (subsequently shipped to the USA as a 1970 Ford). Was it fabricated in England earlier, then held up by the Strikes in Italy? Or were the engine and transmission ordered in 1967, then held in stock? Might it have been for another purpose (an AC 428 big block?). The block is a "Police Interceptor" reinforced block with a scratched letter "C" - the same block used on Shelby GT 500 and "Cobra Jet" mustangs. The heads are not "cobra Jet", though the original Intake manifold could be.
We ARE having fun. It's a real benefit that parts (original and reproduction) are available a fairly plentiful. The original "Cobra" guys are still alive and still working. Excellent!
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quote:
Originally posted by J Jones
Hello ACOArch - Yep!... "cold air" vents in the footwells. My car has them, though the ductwork runs through the engine compartment, where the "cold air" gets nice and toasty before it actually gets to the footwells. That, too, will be changed by re-routing the ducts through the wheel arches (where they were subsequently placed in later models).
Emmanuel will be doing bonnet modifications to facilitate the flow of air through the engine compartment ( therefore eliminating back pressure, hopefully improving air flow through the radiator and reducing hot air flowing into the passenger compartment). Also we hope to fashion a subtile way to bring denser, cold air to the Carb. Making the decorative side vents actually function will be a part of the endeavor to pull air out of the engine compartment.
An odd thing about CFX29 (my car) - all the dated engine parts and transmission were from 1967, just late enough to have been 1968 model year parts. Yet my car 'left the factory' in 1969 and was shipped to Montreal, Canada (subsequently shipped to the USA as a 1970 Ford). Was it fabricated in England earlier, then held up by the Strikes in Italy? Or were the engine and transmission ordered in 1967, then held in stock? Might it have been for another purpose (an AC 428 big block?). The block is a "Police Interceptor" reinforced block with a scratched letter "C" - the same block used on Shelby GT 500 and "Cobra Jet" mustangs. The heads are not "cobra Jet", though the original Intake manifold could be.
We ARE having fun. It's a real benefit that parts (original and reproduction) are available a fairly plentiful. The original "Cobra" guys are still alive and still working. Excellent!
Jeffrey, Your box is not a T5, the T5 is too small and could not take the torque of the big block. It's a TKO600 with .82 fifth gear. (Road racing version)
E[:p]
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OOPS....
Thank you for the correction, Emmanuel.
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Dear all,
Thanks for your valuable comments. I used a Glasurit colour (do not remember which, but could find it out). This is very nice, as the colour evolves with the light. with the handles, I meant the dashboard switches, but I found them. These are Maserati ones.
I have also placed an extraction system on the radiator to reduce the heat under the bonnet, and it seems to work. With a big fan and an aluminium radiator, the water temperatures are at a good level, except for this expansion tank problem.
Can anybody post a picture of this second expansion tank and the way it is connected to the cooling system.
kind regards,
Damien
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An update on engine cooling (in general).
I drove my car 40 miles at 2 PM on the hottest day ever recorded in Los Angeles (record-breaking heat: 113 degrees F), to get it to McCluskey Engineering before I had to leave town the next day. IT DID NOT OVERHEAT! Amazing!
Now both Emmanuel's car and mine are getting the overheating problem under control - just a little more tweaking to make the gills/side vents actually function plus another modification to improve engine bay airflow, and (hopefully) problem solved. I may not have to install Air Conditioning after all.
My car did not have an overflow tank, so we installed one, of larger capacity than the (MG?) unit I've seen on other 428's. Didn't lose a drop of coolant.
It's been interesting to see the reaction of extremely knowledgeable Cobra guys to the Frua. Though it should not be surprising, the fact is series III Cobras and Fruas are virtually identical - even the "mistakes" are the same. I just had my Upper control arms modified to make them adjustable - something commonly done to "original" Cobras. They are exactly the same as the "original" big block series III Cobra. It's even been suggested that some of the engines may have come from Cobras Mr Shelby had to replace with 427's. Amusing thought - and it might help explain why my car left the factory in August 1969 with an engine and transmission manufactured in 1967. Maybe.
On another thread Trevor said there will be an upcoming article about 428 in "Classic Car" (?) magazine, and that it should have a positive effect on values. It's been a mystery why the 428's have been undervalued for so long. Maybe it's just taken 40 years for word to get out.
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Hello guys,
My CF9 is driving wonderfully now with its new engine.
The overheating issue is completely solved : water at 75 °C and oil at max 80 °C, traffic jams or 200km/h on the highway. No heat in the cabine.
I still have to post some pictures. In the meantime, one small problem.
I cannot get the locks of the softtop closed and it I think that my locks are not correctly positioned (I do not think they are in the right angle). Does anybody have a picture on how they should be positioned in order to have a roof that stays closed when needed ?
Kind regards
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Hello Damien,
I am glad you solved your engine issue and that you are enjoying your car now. As far as the top latches, I can post a photo of the latches on the top ittself, unfortunately, the top is not mounted on the car at present. Be aware the system is a bit flimsy and maybe it may be prudent to keep the top open at high speed.
The owner's manual of my 1979 Aston V8 Volante had a warning not to exceed 120mph with the top up.
Funny isnt it!
Emmanuel[:)]
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An update:
I have re-routed my "cold air ducts" through the wheel-wells, a la the later cars.
It was probably unnecessary, as I then decided to proceed with Air Conditioning, which is now completed. The unit fit perfectly in place of the heater, and I've used the existing ducting for footwells, face-level and center vents. Brrrrr! Very effective! and I have heat if it's ever needed and defrosting.
Surpringly, when the A/C fan kicks on, the engine temp falls. Apparently the additional air forced through the radiator improves cooling, despite the heat load from the A/C evaporator.
The A/C control fits in place of the old cable operated heater control, and actually looks somewhat similar.
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You need a larger main fan!, or you may need a switch to run the front manually all the time! I would also make sure the rear fan makes a good seal against the rad.
Emmanuel[:)]