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Messages - Hobo

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31
Look here for your T5, it may help, recommendation is ATF Dexron II :
   http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&t=1385305&d=0&nmt
   
   And this one for your Diff if it is a limited slip one (does not harm a non limited slip)
   http://www.limora.com/en/differentialol-26830.html
   
   However you can fill in other diff oil but add a friction modifier (best ask a Jaguar shop)
   
   The given recommendation for the engine is o.k.
   Use 5W30 or 10W40 or 0W40 and it will be fine. With only 5000 km per year I do only one oil-change per season.
   
   
   Welcome here (!) for further advise

32
ak 1234 : I fully agree with your Statement.
   I think part of the confusion about the "W" blocks and their behaviour is, that you could get them in many many versions with an extrem wide range of hp/ft lbs - characteristics. Starting from the marine version with high low end torque and 220 hp, truck engines, engines for campers up to these 700 hp high power performance engines.

33
Is this the car – auctioned last year – where the engine should come from ??
   http://www.mecum.com/auctions/lot_detail.cfm?LOT_ID=CA0813-161562
   May be you put the engine in a ’62 Ford Galaxie?
   And be cautious: Like with all rare and expensive goods you will find also faked side oilers in the market (out of this view perfect engine for “original” Cobras ;-)  )
   
   Last not least a comment from us-muscle-car Forum about the 427 side oiler:
   "You don't see very many 427 Galaxies due to the engine's cost and the fact that it wasn't very streetable. That is it was built for all out top end performance which made it a poor daily driver. That's how the 428 came about. It too is very powerful, but designed to make low end torque. That made it the perfect street beast."

34
To make it short: If it is a BigBlock - Do NOT do it!
   
   Why? I own a MkIV with an Ford BigBlock installed (460 “CobraJet”) by previous owner. This engine is really huge and heavy. (To make it more worse they installed a 6-gear Richmond).There has been lot things adjusted with the car: engine compartment, footboxes, braces in the frame, bellhousing etc. etc. ……
   However, the worst thing is weight. A good portion of the handling of the car will be destroyed by this heavy weight for ever, independent whether you go for racing or cruising.
   
   I have another restauration project in my snake pit which came with an original 427 side oiler.
   The original sideoiler has of course iron cyl. heads –  more worse and again dozend of kilos more than my “CobraJet”.
   Just from the beginning I put this iron anchor beside and decided for a stroked 302 (347 cui) with an aluminium block (see thread above)……
   
   …..nothing against a stroked 351 (427 cui) small block (iron or better alu block)……. Even nobody needs more that 350 hp in a Cobra/MkIV for cruising – a race small block will deliver 600 hp or more also. Driveability is a different story with such hipo-engines.

35
AK1040 meets the point, drive it love it – it’s not all about money.
   
   Started my “Cobra-life” with Replikas – and still have one – over the years I ended up with aluminum bodied MKIVs. An AC/AutoKraft MkIV or CRS will be the ultimate car (sorry Kirkham / Shelby guys) if you do not enter the hemisphere of CSX/COX/COB-originals.
   
   Again first priority for me is: Drive and love the car, being enthusiastic about design, appearance, genetic roots, etc. etc. – this is what I would summarize under “value” for me (nothing with an unit €,  $ or £ in behind). I never had in mind to earn big money with my hobby, when buying and selling over the years, however I keep always an eye on not to loose money with stupid acquisitions and with a MkIV or CRS you will not loose any . If you want to go for big money keep out of automobile sector - simply become a commodity trader or investment banker.
   
   @ Emmanueld
   I agree: There is no need to put a high-power big-block engine in a MkIV.
   I have some experience with different set ups and my conclusion is: It’s all about weight.
   My latest order for an engine therefore has been a Dart aluminum small block (302 cui) stroked
   to 347 cui. As it is build NOT for racing purposes it is equipped with a relative mild cam (full hydr. Roller E303) and low riser intake, producing 405 hp / 415 ft lbs, redline 6250 rpm.
   Engine is not in Europe yet but ready for shipping :-)

38
As Uwe (Westcott) mentioned I bought a Fluidyne radiator for my “Sleeping Beauty” and I did the measurement.
   The dimensions are: 610 mm wide, height 460 mm, 90 mm thick.
   All 4 corners are chamfered approx. 25 mm / 45°.
   As this radiator is layed back for cars with MkIII-frame, the coolant entrance is angled approx. 20° upwarts.
   I looked at my MKIV and assume this radiator will fit in. The Fluidyne radiator is approx. 10mm wider than the original radiator (which is approx. 600mm x 480 mm), there will be some space left between the small front tubes, however it will be tight .  The coolant entrance will come closer to the body/hood – but also feasible.
   The “Serck” plate has been offered once by Acton Customs Enterprises or is still available in combination with a top cover to create a more periodic correct look (no need for MKIVs): http://actoncobra.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=41&products_id=118 .

39
Market Price? Out of my view still increasing. 2014 £60K seems to be great for buyer. Some years ago £60K was treated as expensive....cars from the US have been traded around US$ 50-60 T.
   
   My personal view on modifications:
   Modificate whatever you want and enjoy your personalized car.
   However do not destroy original parts (dash, carpet, seats, engine ....), put them beside in your storage.
   Don't modificate things which are hard to remodificate again (holes in the body for sidepipes)
   When time will come to sell, you are always in a position to offer an "original" car.
   
   Remember: Had to invest reasonable money to delete the sidepipes from my car to get an underfloor exhaust again.

40
Nice car indeed.
   
   Nearly 100% original, only minor changes (wingnuts, steering wheel) as to the photos perfect condition and very close to a be an Oldtimer here in Europe.
   Is this a carburetted engine or a converted EFI ? (see the air compressor still in place)
   
   Price: so lala, would be 103.000 € incl. shipping, insurance and import tax.......a Little bit too much for Continental Europe.

41
@ nikbj68
   Exactly this has been the point / my point.
   A buyer should get what he pays for - nothing else.
   I couldn't describe it better.
   And a forum like this one is always a good instrument to sort out missleading adverts.

42
Not to be missunderstood:
   I’m not against at all, that someone is converting his MKIV (AK or AKL) into a semi 427 s/c or close to the same specification of  the “26-Lightweights”.
   Personally I also prefer the look of the “real” thing.
   
   But again: When a car – worth 6 digit pounds - comes to sales by a professional dealer I expect a professional job including a description of the car which is 100% correct and carefully investigated.
   Same applies when an owner introduces his car in the public area whether on a meeting, on an exhibition, by youtube-video or in a forum. Anything else is not acceptable for me.
   
   When it comes to the features of the Lightweights (I went through all the old threads of this forum from 2007 onwards) they are still not clear and are still confusing and I meanwhile believe there is no common definition (custom-hand-build by factory!!!).
   
   Even the weight as such is not very helpful as an indicator – because it seems that nobody knows about the exact weight of a Lightweight.
   First of all no clear definition of the kerb weight: with/without all fluids/necessary equipment (spare wheel/hood/tonneaucover/tools) and in particular tank empty/half full. etc. etc.
   Therefore too much talks and figures in the air in the range from 2050 lbs (“AK is 2250lbs – a AKL-Lightweight should be 200 lbs lighter”), 2350 lbs from the 93’-press release up to the 2520 lbs-figure provided by TLegate (“Cobra-The Real Thing”, page 250).
   
   @ Jürgen: If we concentrate only on the "group of 24.....27 cars" - even the basic figure of the number of cars is not clear - I strictly do not believe that all of these cars have been delivered without any heater. If you know better, which is the reliable resource you extract this knowledge from?

43
@ SJ351: I agree with your statement. Each of these unique hand build AC cars should be accepted what they are, either true, semi or lookalike Lightweights.
   
   However - at first - I expect from owners and in particular from professional car dealer that they describe the cars what they really are. Otherwise the whole AKL-Lightweight issue is drifting in the same corner as we can observe for decades with the “true” CSX/COB-Cobras, which is a crying shame.
   I can’t agree at all on any description which is obvious wrong - only for the purpose to gain the difference in market prices between a “true” one and the “others”……and the best way to hinder people to do so is creating transparency and disclose which ones are true and which ones not.
   It is so easy to convert a normal/”other” AKL into a “true” Lightweight……and I know what I’m talking about, as owner of one of the “other” Lightweights (AKL 1411, which is still 99% in original condition!) and AK 1073 (which does not carry a “L” suffix but is strictly build to Lightweight specification by factory!) – NO, I have NOT the intention to  create a “true” one from these sources :-)).
   
   Second: The differentiation between "true" (I think you refer to the row of the famous 26) and the others (other Lightweights/semi/lookalike) does not meet the point. There is a hughe number of factory Lightweights build and if only the 26 are deemed as true the other factory build Lightweights are "wrong"?? - for sure they are no semi nor lookalikes.
   
   Last not least, the fact that there is NO heater and/or NO demisters will never be a reliable evidence that you look at a true Lightweight…..and vice versa, because in all periods anything would have been build in by factory if only the money has been paid for, even a heater in a “true” Lightweight…therefore a true Lightweight WITH heater/demister is NOT a conflict.

44
Here it is! Another MkIV claimed to be one of the 24/42/50 whatsoever real Lightweights.
   Nice car - however not a Lightweight - even not having Lightweight features.
   I like this sentence - a really good joke if you look to the car:
   "Also included w/this Lightweight package were GT-40 heads, Locking Monza Fuel filler, Roll Hoop, 16 Halibrand wheels w/knock-offs & many other Mark III features."
   
   http://www.investmentmotorcars.net/inventory/detail/autokraft/detail.htm
   
   Uuupppss! Another one in Japan :-)):
   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-x2RUWaWXzU
   
   And now take attention:
   A real Lightweight as tested in the CAR magazine in Nov. 1992.
   Look at the dash and the heater!! (Only to refresh the discussion about the "real" Lightweights and their features.)
   
   http://www.flickriver.com/photos/triggerscarstuff/tags/autokraft/
   
   @ Uwe: Da steht auch was von 4"-Rohren mit dünnerer Wandung und internen Verstärkungen drin !!
   
   And here some more cars incl. the yellow nice AKL 1403:
   http://autabuytractors.com/ViewPhoto/?I=/Photos/758257_320674094909949_Orig.jpg&ShowAdSense=1&K=1985%20FORD%20COBRA%20AUTOKRAFT%20A.C.%20COBRA%20MKIV%20%20
   
   http://priceguides.org/6195-miles-from-new-1992-ac-cobra-mkiv-lightweight-roadster-coachwork-by-autokraft.html

45
It seems to be a serious offer.
   Looking to the sales price it seems to be an original 289 one, same impression you get from the only available photo showing the periodical correct speedometer. However advertisment refers to a 7 ltr. engine with a lot of hp. The car is still in the US.
   
   ..... offered by a welknown company.
   Welknown so far that they also offered vintage cars from the US acting as a broker (only)......including many "65"-Cobra replicas (and leaving the (German) buyer alone when it comes to road registration :-( )
   
   If you are interested in the car you have to go deep into the details - first exercise would be to get the VIN.
   Simply give them a call. Someone from Switzerland will get an answer - as they smell the money :-))

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