166
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Aceca. How many keys?
« on: November 27, 2014, 07:35:50 »
They're also available in the US here.[url][/urlhttp://britishcarkeys.com/index.html
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167
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Aceca. How many keys?
« on: November 27, 2014, 07:31:42 »
Lots of sellers for these keys on UK Ebay.
Regards Luke.
Regards Luke.
168
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Aceca stampings
« on: November 04, 2014, 18:47:56 »
The differential is stamped on the upper side of the nose casting. It's only stamped with a makers number and another code prefixed ACH and the ratio 12/47 or 14/51 ect, not with anything that was chassis specific.
The Aceca Moss gearbox I have has no stamps, I don't have a Bristol gearbox at present but I think they are also only marked with their type such as BWCR9, but I guess they could have been matched to a specific engine block, maybe someone else will know for sure.
Regards Luke.
The Aceca Moss gearbox I have has no stamps, I don't have a Bristol gearbox at present but I think they are also only marked with their type such as BWCR9, but I guess they could have been matched to a specific engine block, maybe someone else will know for sure.
Regards Luke.
169
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Ammeter
« on: October 18, 2014, 12:42:27 »
The lighting for the smaller gauges was from external bulbs mounted on brackets on the rear of the other gauges.
The correct type Lucas BM4 ammeter is held in by four ears on the chrome body.
body.
The correct type Lucas BM4 ammeter is held in by four ears on the chrome body.
body.
170
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Ace,Aceca and 2.6 Dust Shields.
« on: October 08, 2014, 11:20:22 »
289 Cobra dust seals are similar in design, the only (not great) photos I have are from the unrestored CSX2289.
171
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Ace,Aceca and 2.6 Dust Shields.
« on: October 05, 2014, 20:17:52 »
Hi Jonathan,
After seeing your photos I went back through my old patterns and found one from an original 2.6 and guess what the split is at the top exactly as yours! There was as far as I can see a slight difference to the lower edge with a small oblong cutout for the damper, the rear most corner of this cutout has a 1/4'' wide slot that continues upward for further 2''.
I also have another pattern with the split line at the bottom but I've no idea if this was from an original or not. I guess the choice was down to whoever made this part back in 1950/60 whatever in Thames Ditton. Anyway your photos show what looks to be the correct general design.
After seeing your photos I went back through my old patterns and found one from an original 2.6 and guess what the split is at the top exactly as yours! There was as far as I can see a slight difference to the lower edge with a small oblong cutout for the damper, the rear most corner of this cutout has a 1/4'' wide slot that continues upward for further 2''.
I also have another pattern with the split line at the bottom but I've no idea if this was from an original or not. I guess the choice was down to whoever made this part back in 1950/60 whatever in Thames Ditton. Anyway your photos show what looks to be the correct general design.
172
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Ace,Aceca and 2.6 Dust Shields.
« on: October 03, 2014, 20:07:52 »
The rubber section has an offset split from the lower edge ending at an oblong cutout for the leaf spring. The rubber has to be split at the bottom otherwise you cannot remove the wheel box without dismantling the suspension.
Regarding the earlier cars not having the rubber seal I meant to say 1958 not 59. I can only really speak about the cars still with original inner panels that I've actually worked on. Currently I'm working on BEX 366 which was ex works late 1957 and it has never had these seals fitted. I also have a 1955 Aceca in the workshop and it also never had any seals fitted.
However as I'm sure you are aware these cars were hand made and there seems to have been quite a variation when it comes down to individual details, making it dangerous to generalise about what was changed when. Maybe these seals were even an optional extra?
Regards Luke.
Regarding the earlier cars not having the rubber seal I meant to say 1958 not 59. I can only really speak about the cars still with original inner panels that I've actually worked on. Currently I'm working on BEX 366 which was ex works late 1957 and it has never had these seals fitted. I also have a 1955 Aceca in the workshop and it also never had any seals fitted.
However as I'm sure you are aware these cars were hand made and there seems to have been quite a variation when it comes down to individual details, making it dangerous to generalise about what was changed when. Maybe these seals were even an optional extra?
Regards Luke.
173
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Ace,Aceca and 2.6 Dust Shields.
« on: October 03, 2014, 08:10:17 »
I just found this photo in an old post that hopefully will make things clearer. 
174
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Ace,Aceca and 2.6 Dust Shields.
« on: October 03, 2014, 07:57:19 »
If you mean the inner wheel boxes/arches the panels for all Ace and Aceca variants are made from one piece of 18 gauge aluminium without any splits or joints. There is a separate closing panel that seals off the side of the radiator area further forward in the nose. The cobra version of these panels is I believe different with a spit as you describe. The Ace type has a triangular cutout with a rounded top that clears both the spring and the lower wishbone. This cutout is folded back on its self around the edge to form a safe edge.
Early Aces and Acecas did not have a rubber curtain seal in the triangular aperture, as far as I'm aware these seem to have appeared on cars built around 1959. The rubber seal is 1/16'' thick sandwiched by three thin ali strips pop riveted to wheel side of the wheel box.
There is also a 5/8'' square section sponge seal that is partially split and sits over the raw edge of the wheel box against the outer body.
Some of the very early Aces had a rounded rather than sharp fold to the rear but I don't know the change over date.
I do have some patterns for these panels but they are only a rough guide due to the variations of the hand made outer body panels. Normally I first make pattern in thin cardboard to ensure a good fit to the outer body.
I hope this helps.
Regards Luke.
Early Aces and Acecas did not have a rubber curtain seal in the triangular aperture, as far as I'm aware these seem to have appeared on cars built around 1959. The rubber seal is 1/16'' thick sandwiched by three thin ali strips pop riveted to wheel side of the wheel box.
There is also a 5/8'' square section sponge seal that is partially split and sits over the raw edge of the wheel box against the outer body.
Some of the very early Aces had a rounded rather than sharp fold to the rear but I don't know the change over date.
I do have some patterns for these panels but they are only a rough guide due to the variations of the hand made outer body panels. Normally I first make pattern in thin cardboard to ensure a good fit to the outer body.
I hope this helps.
Regards Luke.
175
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Glove box doors
« on: October 02, 2014, 20:46:39 »
The correct overall hinge length is 8''(203mm), sorry about that it was obviously too early to be measuring anything this morning[:I]. All the other measurements are correct though!
Regards Luke.
Regards Luke.
176
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Glove box doors
« on: October 02, 2014, 18:43:01 »
I've just rechecked the dimensions and the rivet/screw centres are exactly 2 5/16''.
The problem with finding a suitable replacement for the rexine is obtaining something thin enough and of equally poor quality as the original!
The problem with finding a suitable replacement for the rexine is obtaining something thin enough and of equally poor quality as the original!
177
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Glove box doors
« on: October 02, 2014, 18:37:21 »
Hopefully these photos will answer your questions.
Sorry if they're a bit large.
Sorry if they're a bit large.
178
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Glove box doors
« on: October 02, 2014, 07:57:22 »
The hinge is riveted directly through the front face under the padding, solid ali or dural rivets csk head on the padding side. No washers just pin punched flush into the ply.The 3/4'' long 4BA fixing screw for the check strap also goes right through from the front face under the padding with a lock nut under the inner trim panel.
Standard flat continuous hinge chrome on brass, dimensions as follows.
Length 9 3/8''
Open width 1''
Joint length 1/2''
Pin size 5/64'' (2mm)
Material thickness 20 SWG
This hinge is available from Gold & Wassall Ltd but only in brass or stainless.
The inner facing panel is made from 1/16'' thick mill board trimmed in rexine.
Rexine is no longer made and the nearest equivalent are the materials used for book binding.
Pics to follow.
Standard flat continuous hinge chrome on brass, dimensions as follows.
Length 9 3/8''
Open width 1''
Joint length 1/2''
Pin size 5/64'' (2mm)
Material thickness 20 SWG
This hinge is available from Gold & Wassall Ltd but only in brass or stainless.
The inner facing panel is made from 1/16'' thick mill board trimmed in rexine.
Rexine is no longer made and the nearest equivalent are the materials used for book binding.
Pics to follow.
179
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Glove box doors
« on: October 01, 2014, 19:49:24 »
Hello Roger,
I've just checked an original 289 Cobra glove box door and one from an Ace. Both are made from 1/4'' thick good quality (birch?) 5 ply, this is also rebated 3/32" deep for the lock ring nut.
The hinge is riveted in place with four 1/8'' csk aluminium rivets at 2 1/4'' centres, directly through the plywood. The hinge is chromed ( although you can't see it when fitted) and is attached to the dash flange with four 4BA round head set screws and nuts.
Regards Luke.
I've just checked an original 289 Cobra glove box door and one from an Ace. Both are made from 1/4'' thick good quality (birch?) 5 ply, this is also rebated 3/32" deep for the lock ring nut.
The hinge is riveted in place with four 1/8'' csk aluminium rivets at 2 1/4'' centres, directly through the plywood. The hinge is chromed ( although you can't see it when fitted) and is attached to the dash flange with four 4BA round head set screws and nuts.
Regards Luke.
180
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / BE 646
« on: July 04, 2014, 20:34:47 »
Well done Peter, as you rightly pointed out the trick to this job is in the preparation.
Just remember to firmly brace the tube before welding in the repair section to stop it
pulling/distorting.
Regards,
Luke.
Just remember to firmly brace the tube before welding in the repair section to stop it
pulling/distorting.
Regards,
Luke.