AC Owners Club Forum
AC Owners Club Forum => Mk IV, Superblower, CRS and other Continuation Cars Forum => Topic started by: AK1161 on July 04, 2010, 09:52:25
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Good day to all ACOC members.
I would like to change the exhaust manifolds on a 1986 mkiv 302efi and wondered if anybody has any ideas on a suitable product. I am aware of the limited space there is to work with and hoped someone may be able to point me in the right direction.
Thanks for any feedback,
AK1161
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Any number of speed shops have headers for the car and are pretty well engineered for flow etc. Shoties best, space considered. The only alternative is a custom fabrication that is somewhat of trial and error for flow/equal length etc. If you get a great set that work on these cars the 302 is immensly popular over here. Many of the kit cars here (non-MkI/II/III/IV's) use long length but most dump into side exhaust systems.
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Personally I would use JBA Perf Exhaust and cross reference to a 1988 Mustang GT since basically the headers from the factory were off a Mustang ... so the JBA's would problably be the closest to fit in the AC frame. The shorty's as you will see they redesigned for perf increase.
Ron
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Thanks...the JBA 1624s-2js look like they will do the job. I have asked them to forward me dimensions.....are Edlebrock as good or not. I stumbled across there web site and used the 88 mustang gt as a reference.
Thanks again, Luke
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I had my original headers changed for "shorty" versions a few years ago. They do require a little bit of fiddling and I had the work done by Thunder Road. Before the headers were fitted I had them coated internally and externally to reduce heat transfer and this has worked well. I'm sure Al & Alec at Thunder Road would be happy to tell the make and model of shorty header they use and also how tricky or easy it was.
http://thunder-road-shop.co.uk/9.html
Cheers - John
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JBA's come in 3 stainless steel versions coated SS headers and work better than mild steel. stainless does not transfer heat very well, so the engine compartment stays cooler. This slightly increases power, saves wire insulation and hoses from rapid deterioration. one problem with plain steel headers is a progressive drop in power as time goes on. big cause of this is having the inside of the pipes rust, which roughens the pipe walls and changes exhaust gas speeds. On a dyno a lost 50 bhp from rusty headers, and gained it back on dyno runs by putting on a new set of the same pipes.
Ron
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I've got BBK Performance, Inc. Unequal-Length Shorty Headers (EO D-245-5) w/ silver polished ceramic coating on my Mk IV. Fits (tight)and seems to work well.
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Thanks for all the feedback.
Just 2 quick questions;
On the BBK system....is it part nos 15150..... and
on the JBA system....1624S-2JS
Will they both work effectively with the fuel injection 302efi.
Thanks for all info it is appreciated
Luke
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quote:
Originally posted by AK1161
Thanks for all the feedback.
Just 2 quick questions;
On the BBK system....is it part nos 15150..... and
on the JBA system....1624S-2JS
Will they both work effectively with the fuel injection 302efi.
Thanks for all info it is appreciated
Luke
Yes, that's the part # for the BBK, and I have it on a 302 EFI.
Art
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Sorry to unbury this topic, but I bought this 1515 (same as 15150, but non-ceramic coated) header, and just checked visually, but they seems really thicker than stock exhausts ! Can one of you take pics of headers installed on his car ? Many thanks !
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quote:
Originally posted by French Frie
Sorry to unbury this topic, but I bought this 1515 (same as 15150, but non-ceramic coated) header, and just checked visually, but they seems really thicker than stock exhausts ! Can one of you take pics of headers installed on his car ? Many thanks !
Here ya go:
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg88/anf289/54313c1a-bb37-4392-9adb-9d465f200cfa.jpg?t=1368923427)
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg88/anf289/4f86281f-143c-42d0-8e57-c648bfa6773e.jpg?t=1368923734)
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Oh yeah ! Really tight, indeed ! What is the material of the panel shied added ? No heat problem ? Or burned feet [;)] ?
Ps : many thanks for this fast answer !
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PS2 : Am I correct if I assume you plugged the air pump lines ?
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The stock headers are really not worth having as they restrict emissions and having looked at the products available most need adjusting or are similar to stock. We concluded it is best to get some bespoke headers and ceramic coat them.
This is a more expensive solution but the ones on AK1161 are superb and I would recommend going down this route.
I will try to dig out the phone number of the bloke who did the work.
I have some photos but do not know how to post them.....help please
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I know that nik has posted a tutorial for that, but my thought is that using Photobucket is the easier way and works on PCs as well as on I-devices (http://photobucket.com/)
Once uploaded from your library, you just as to click on the "direct link" area, which will copy the link, then type (http:// , paste your link , then type ) , et voilĂ !
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Here the RH or passenger side of my foot boxes,there are some 20mm space between headers and factory heat shield.
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i266/crendon_2006/P5192726_zpsa1fa634f.jpg) (http://s74.photobucket.com/user/crendon_2006/media/P5192726_zpsa1fa634f.jpg.html)
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i266/crendon_2006/P5192725_zps952f4364.jpg) (http://s74.photobucket.com/user/crendon_2006/media/P5192725_zps952f4364.jpg.html)
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On the LH or drivers side the headers (#6 tube) are 1-2 mm away from the factory heat shield. The edge protecting strip melted during the run in because i had the engine timing a bit late.
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i266/crendon_2006/P5192724_zps527414f9.jpg) (http://s74.photobucket.com/user/crendon_2006/media/P5192724_zps527414f9.jpg.html)
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i266/crendon_2006/P5192723_zps98eaf259.jpg) (http://s74.photobucket.com/user/crendon_2006/media/P5192723_zps98eaf259.jpg.html)
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My headers are BBK stainless, 1621SJS, titanium matt coated, for use with EFI.
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You mean JBA, not BBK, right Uwe [;)] ?
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William, photo posting instructions HERE (http://"http://www.acownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2560"), and in my post of today(19th May) there is a hint on how to remove the line of code that appears before the photos above.
Happy photo posting! Nik.
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Yep..JBA, not BBK.
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quote:
Originally posted by French Frie
Oh yeah ! Really tight, indeed ! What is the material of the panel shied added ? No heat problem ? Or burned feet [;)] ?
Ps : many thanks for this fast answer !
The heat shield is KoolMat = NASA Thermal Protection System (TPS) materials developed by Rockwell Space Systems (now Boeing North America). Still warm... but no burned feet!
quote:
PS2 : Am I correct if I assume you plugged the air pump lines ?
Yes, the air pump was removed and the remaining plumbing was capped.
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We managed to use 1 3/4" tube as opposed to 1 5/8" giving better outflow. The origional stuff is certainly restrictive and if you get a chance to change / convert it is a worthwhile upgrade.
(http://[URL=http://s878.photobucket.com/user/mrwlbryan/media/manifolds.jpg.html][img]http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab347/mrwlbryan/manifolds.jpg)[/URL][/img](http://[URL=http://s878.photobucket.com/user/mrwlbryan/media/exhustmanifold.jpg.html][img]http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab347/mrwlbryan/exhustmanifold.jpg)[/URL](http://)(http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab347/mrwlbryan/manifold2.jpg) (http://s878.photobucket.com/user/mrwlbryan/media/manifold2.jpg.html)[/img](http://[URL=http://s878.photobucket.com/user/mrwlbryan/media/manifold2.jpg.html][img]http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab347/mrwlbryan/manifold2.jpg)[/URL][/img]
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Nice, it does the trick and looks pretty good.
Good suggestion for my planned complete exhaust rework during the next winter.