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Messages - Hobo

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16
Sorry, I’m getting older too :-)
   “EuroKraft” was a company I worked for and seems to be this is still in my mind, of course I meant "AutoKraft" regarding the wheel-discussion.
   
   AutoKraft wheels means indeed the original wheels mounted by factory and they are stamped „AutoKraft“ at the outside (center).
   
   The measurement of the angle of the cone is a little bit difficult without special tools, both on the wheel side as well on the spinners or (the original) hexagonal (center) nuts.
   
   The Trigos wheels I run with spinners on my green MkIV (see photo above) – I also “blued” them and the cone fit perfectly. The spinners I bought from “Acton”/USA some month ago.
   
   Therefore, what I can state so far:
   The Trigo wheels and my spinners fit together perfectly and with the AVONs the wheels also fit to the car.
   I didn’t test so far the Trigo with the (original factory) hex. nut – but I will do soon.
   
   My conclusion:
   If someone is interested in FIA-style 15”-wheels, I would consider Trigo or Vintage Wheels to be a good resources as they have 6-pin FIA-styled wheels with the right dimensions (7.5”, 9.5”) and if you order spinners from the same source there should be no problem with the cone angle.
   However Trigo does not mention any backspace adjustment, but it seems that Vintage Wheels is willing to do.
   
   http://www.trigowheels.com/289_6_r_b.html
   
   http://vintagewheelsus.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=15_29
   
   eby.uk: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Set-of-4-refurbished-Ali-Halibrand-type-wheels-for-AC-Cobra-/351567716255?hash=item51db119f9f:m:m79Q6a20QDFNxiiVZkxsCpg
   
   Other wheels I found on ebay are 16"
   http://www.ebay.com/itm/Set-of-4-AC-Cobra-Original-Wheels-Knock-Offs-Autokraft-MkIV-/151886760595?vxp=mtr
   Seller(USA) will not ship to ROW.

17
Many thanks, I also strongly believe the wheels are trigo.
   
   I did the measurement of the backspace - both the trigo and the AutoKraft wheels today.
   
   Backspace by definition is this:
   
   
   The results are the following:
   
   Trigo
   Front: 69 mm
   Rear: 69 mm
   
   AutoKraft:
   Front: 67,5 mm
   Rear: 80 mm
   
   As I mentioned before the front wheels are practically the same the rear wheel differ in 11 mm.
   However both set of wheels fit to my MkIV in combination with the AVONs.

18
Dear all,
   
   I took time to check further my wheels I’m running on my MkIV.
   These wheels I bought from a Cobra-Enthusiast some years ago. As mentioned they fit very well even the backspace of the rear wheel is 10 mm less than on my AutoKraft-wheels.
   
   Not sure who the manufacturer is.....anyone out there knowing this oval sign with that kind of fork in the center? (Trigo??)
   
   Please find attached the detailed photos.
   The front wheel is stamped as following:
   Outside:
   “7.500 x 15  /  COBRA II”
   Inside:
   As above “7.500 x 15 / COBRA II”,
   “WHEELLOAD 1600 LB MAX”
   “MADE IN U.S.A”
   “DOT-T (most likely or DOT-I)
   “707L922”
   A oval sign showing a kind of fork.
   
   
   
   
   The rear wheel ist stamped:
   Outside:
   “9.500 x 15  /  COBRA 2  /  3008”
   “501A-1”
   
   Inside:
   As above “9.500 x 15 / COBRA 2 / 3008 ”,
   “WHEELLOAD 1600 LB MAX”
   “MADE IN U.S.A”
   “DOT-T (most likely or DOT-I)
   “607L927”
   A oval sign showing a kind of fork.
   
   Attention: Front wheel is stamped "COBRA II", rear wheel "COBRA 2"
   
   
   
   
   
   

19
J just fitted some aftermarket wheels (Halibrand style) on my MkIV for testing the car, which was out of operation for some years.
   
   I took the wheels from another restauration project which is far away from finalization but they had new AVONs with the right dimension mounted.
   
   In the front the aftermarket wheels have exact the same dimensions as the original MkIV wheels. Rear wheels have a difference of 10mm backspace – 10mm more “inside” but still no clearance issues even not with the damper.
   
   Remark:
   Vintagewheel has been very, very helpful some years ago in converting my replica from 18”/17” to 15”-wheels. Perfect communication and finally the right fit of the wheels to the car.
   
   In case of interest I could check my wheels and look for further information/PN/numbers etc. as well as measurement of backspace.
   
   [/url][/img]

20
....exactly the point.
   
   A legally registered MkIV in Belgian (EU), LHD and than sold for £55.000 equal to €75.000 !!
   It needs some free advertisments in "mobile" or "autoscout" only and the car would have been sold in minutes with this price, even higher.
   
   Sorry, but if the vendor shows such a low profile in marketing of his beauty or does not want be bothered with potential buyers the result of sale via an auction is nothing but fair.

21
".................Only, if they want to sell the car. If they want to use it such a development is not good: the insurance fee rise and the car gets into the focus of professional thieves............."
   
   Yes Peter,
   I hear the masters voice………
   …………however, if you own a MkIV – and you own a very pretty one - you are getting richer and richer based on non-realized “marketprices”.
   Paying some more insurance duties is the consequence……..always a matter of your luxurious problems.
   If it is properly insured, do not care about thieves, with exception that there are some emotional aspects which can not be reflected in money.

22
“………………..Unfortunately the car wasn't exactly 30 years old and 30% UK Duty and Vat would have been applicable. That plus shipping killed the deal……..”
   
   Yes, exactly this was the situation. However – and in my opinion - when I saw the car I thought that a tough and serious interested potential buyer should store the care inside the USA at a safe place until it gets 30 years old. Storage cost for a few month would be far cheaper than import tax of 30% + VAT(in the UK) or 20% in Continental Europe.
   
   “……………..Incidentally, with UK Auction prices Vat is levied on the commission, not the entire hammer price!!!.................”
   
   Interesting detail I could to learn today………….many thanks!

23
Oooohh look at this!
   Found the car I mentioned above again.....now in Switzerland.
   
   http://www.autoscout24.ch/de/d/ac-cobra-cabriolet-occasion?allmakes=1&index=6&st=2&typename=cobra%2c%2c&vehid=3214364&vehtyp=10&returnurl=%2fde%2fautos%2falle-marken%3fallmakes%3d1%26st%3d2%26typename%3dcobra%2c%2c%26vehtyp%3d10%26r%3d5
   
   Ok, not imported as a vintage car, therefore more import tax payed. I estimate buyers price than was approx.  100.000 Euros (inside Switzerland)………….. but look:
   
   The car is now offered for 183.000 Euros - nearly doubbled the Price !!!
   This is why car traders have a such bright smile in their face !
   
   As all traders playing the same game, potential buyers more and more believe this level is the real market price on the other hand MkIV-Owners are quite happy with such a development.

24
As an example: A year ago or so this car was offered for 95.000US$ now marked as sold
   http://www.rosnermotorsports.com/1985-autokraft-ac-mark-iv-cobra-roadster.htm
   Some hard negotiation and cash in your pocket and you may end up with let say 85.000 US$.
   Build 1985 it is deemed as an vintage car with an reduced import tax of 6% in the Netherlands plus shipping (max. 3000 US$) you would have ended with a final buyers price of 83.500 Euros !!
   3-5 years ago you could find some nice MkIVs for US$ 60.000-70.000 in the market, a lot of them found their way to the EU. These days are over, as the US-Sellers are now really aware of the European market prices.

25
A very nice car in fantastic conditions (as far you can see on photos).
   O.K. the brown interior a little rare.
   To my knowledge you have to pay the “buyers premium” (commission) to Sotheby’s which is 25% on top of the hammer price  plus sales tax of 20% on the total amount .
   Therefore the buyer’s price finally was £92.400 equal to 127.000 Euro which is an incredible high price for continental Europe.
   MkVs have been sold the last 3 year between 80.000 to 100.000 Euros on the Continent.

26
Yes, the car has been mentioned here last year in November.
   The "old" ebay-offer: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Other-Makes-AC-Mk-IV-Cobra-AC-Cobra-Mk-IV-Aluminum-Body-5-0l-shelby-/191415961870?forcerrptr=true&hash=item2c9147c90e&item=191415961870&pt=US_Cars_Trucks
   
   If you go into Detail, you can see that the offer at that time was retracted at 86.000 US$ while the highest bid was 85.600 US$.
   Actual the "Buy it now Price" is 86.900 US$.
   
   Playing around for some 100 US$ on this level?? Little bit confused.

27
B.P.Bird:
   Yes, all this stuff is very britsh and you are playing a homegame. You should know it better than me.
   However I learned that all Jaguar Limited slip differential Need this friction modifier. Without you will destroy the limited slip function.
   I had a diff for overhaul with a Jag.-Specialist and it came back with this Little bottle to be filled in without any further comment.
   Regarding leather seals I believe they are not build in the 80th-90th diffs, however they talk also about "natural" rubber seals. I personaly can't differentiate between a natural rubber seal and a synthetic seal - its all black - therefore I would avoid full sythetic oil.

28
Have you asked him directly by E-bay question about shipping to Europe????????
   Sometimes us-citizens are are bit lazy - they think USA is the whole world (which is not true).
   However they are open minded if it comes to a good sale price - Money makes the world go around :-))
   I never had a problem if you execute by PayPal incl. shipping cost to Europe.

29
Finally I found a source on your Island for the friction modifier for the limited slip diff - correct short Name : "Jaguar-Daimler Power lock differential additive":
   http://britishparts.co.uk/products/5421-differential-additive-JLM10814.
   Type in this PN: JLM10814
   
   Moreover, this is the main concern about use of full synthetic diff oil:
   
   "Note that while the diff can be topped up with conventional gear oil, a drain and refill requires an additive for limited-slip units.
   
   According to a salesman at Quality Jaguar, the XJ-S final drive unit uses both natural leather and natural rubber seals. Therefore, synthetic lubricants are NOT recommended. It is recommended that synthetics be avoided in the special additive as well."
   
   This is the reason why i stay away from "modern" synthetic oil in the gear box or diff - if it is not a modern device from the late 2000th. These old devices are designed for old fashioned oil and operate in millions of Units very well - why to change to a uncertain solution?

30
Low miles and low miles can be a big difference.
   
   If I go for a ride the minimum operation time is 1-2h /100 km or longer trips. Than car goes back for sleep.
   This will avoid any moisture in the oil in any case .  Seasonal oil change I do always at the end of the season before winter storage. This way of operation will not hurt the engine or its oil.
   
   This is very different story from only going 5 min to the ice bar 5 miles away 40 times a year or more worse let engine idle warm from time to time in your garage.

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