Author Topic: Mk IV antisway bar mounting  (Read 11490 times)

Superarnie Mk2

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Mk IV antisway bar mounting
« Reply #15 on: July 12, 2013, 22:43:51 »
It's taken some time for me to complete the fitting of the rear anti-roll bar, (only due to other commitments) but here goes.
   
   This image shows the lower shock absorber bolt aligned with the eye end and bolt.
   
   
   
   The lower suspension bolt was drilled and tapped to receive the eye end bolt.
   
   
   
   Next I installed a polyeuethane bush with a 19mm hole in it to fit over the ARB. I placed a large washer on the inside face. I will later place a jubilee type clip up to the washer to prevent lateral movement of the ARB.
   
   
   
   The next image shows the mounting brackets which fit over the bush and clamp the ARB to the chassis. It is a Ford part. I have the part number if anyone requires it.
   
   
   
   One end of the eye end is then bolted to the end of the ARB.
   
   
   
   This next image shows the bar bolt to the chassis pick up point.(Note jubilee clip installed)
   
   
   
   And finally the ARB is connected to the lower suspension bolt.
   
   
   
   You will notice that the ARB is very close to the trailing arm. I am hoping that when the car is off it's tressels the suspension won't be 'drooped' and handing down as it is now and will then give a degree of clearance. As my car is still in the build stage it will be some time until it will be off the tressels. If anyone can advise on this point I'd be very grateful.
   
   Regards
   
   Gary

Superarnie Mk2

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« Reply #16 on: July 12, 2013, 22:57:02 »
Incidentally, my friend has a Mk 1V lightweight. His rear ARB arrangement is differenet to mine. Here are a couple of images.
   
   The first shows that the eye end is mounted to the attachment bolt of the trailing arm;
   
   
   
   The chassis pick up points appear to be in the same locations as on my Superblower chassis;
   
   
   
   and another one, the bushes are different to mine as well.
   
   
   
   Hope this has been of some value.
   
   Gary

Flyinghorse

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Mk IV antisway bar mounting
« Reply #17 on: July 13, 2013, 12:10:08 »
Garry -your antiroll set up is as per my CRS.(It may have been done by redline but not 100% sure)
   
   The pictures of the other set up show the "U" brackets with ground out flats (bottomed) so wonder if they are set up deliberately like that.
   
   Also see no handbrake cables in either type of set up above. I run my cable between the antiroll bar and the chassis, not below to protect them, having tried both find that's best. Main mounting on my CRS
   
   
   
   Note last shot shows handbrake cable below the ARB. It needs to be above.
   Graham

nikbj68

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« Reply #18 on: July 14, 2013, 20:46:04 »
Graham, do you have the same amount of space between the collar & mounting clamp on the opposite side? Looks like a lot of lateral movement!
   Is there a bush between the clamps & the bar, and are the clamps ali?
   It`s interesting to see the variations in each of these cars to achieve the same end. Very informative thread!

Flyinghorse

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« Reply #19 on: July 14, 2013, 21:46:10 »
Nik,
   I keep tightening it & it moves as its a lot of force for a small collar to stop, but I believe it needs to move (or float) in this set up as its connected to a pivot point at the base of each shock and as a wheel moves up or down it will exert a lateral force to the area of the clamps which are alloy. There is a grease nipple in the base of each clamp
   I still think its still performing its anti roll duty as that is more torsional and perhaps gives a "softer" setting.
   This set up's been on this car since 2005,way before I got it.

nikbj68

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« Reply #20 on: July 15, 2013, 09:19:22 »
Agreed, it`s a lot to ask one small grubscrew to hold!
   Can`t argue with it`s performance over 8 years, it`s a nice looking setup.
   Happy motoring, all 3 of you!

MkIV Lux

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« Reply #21 on: July 15, 2013, 10:45:28 »
quote:
Originally posted by Flyinghorse
   
.... but I believe it needs to move (or float) in this set up as its connected to a pivot point at the base of each shock and as a wheel moves up or down it will exert a lateral force to the area of the clamps ....
   

   
   Graham, I can't really agree on this theory that the bar itself would need to move laterally.
   The ARB is attached on the wheel side by two rod ends which hence allow for any possible relative position of suspension triangle to end of ARB.
   
   If the ARB is allowed a lateral movement, then part of its effect is neutralized, but rather in a random way.

Flyinghorse

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« Reply #22 on: July 15, 2013, 17:11:59 »
Constant,
   I agree with you that the rose joint links should take the  movement of the wheel. On my set up I think the issue is the stop collars are poorly mounted with the grub screw just touching the ARB. I  need a small drilling /depression in the ARB for the grub screw to sit into so it locks more firmly into position. I could also try the Jubilee clip idea.
   That should tighten things up.
   Thanks.
   Graham

MkIV Lux

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« Reply #23 on: July 15, 2013, 22:46:33 »
yes Graham, I think a small cavity to locate the grub screw should do the job

French Frie

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« Reply #24 on: July 17, 2013, 09:58:25 »
hi all,
   
   thanks for sharing these very informative pictures ! could you please precise what are your ARB diameter ? I'd go for a 16mm in order to not make the car oversteer (I now have a 19mm front ARB), but advices much appreciated [;)] !

MkIV Lux

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« Reply #25 on: July 19, 2013, 15:32:42 »
will measure front and rear ARBs over the w/e for you [:)]

French Frie

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« Reply #26 on: July 19, 2013, 22:27:56 »
Thanks Constant !

Flyinghorse

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« Reply #27 on: July 20, 2013, 01:07:52 »
I have 22.5mm at front and 19.5mm at rear  on CRS
   
   Graham

Paul Mundy

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« Reply #28 on: July 20, 2013, 17:21:59 »
For what it may be worth, my Superblower has 22.5mm front and rear
   
   Regards
   Paul

Superarnie Mk2

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« Reply #29 on: July 21, 2013, 23:51:19 »
Paul, is your Superblower rear set-up the same as I have outlined earlier in this thread on my own car?