Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - B.P.Bird

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 26
16
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: How to grease wheels on Ace!
« on: March 28, 2023, 23:35:21 »
In addition and hardly intuitive, over greasing bearings will cause excessive wear. Really, as noted above, if the hub is correctly packed on assembly (half grease and half airspace) then no further grease is required for thousands of miles.
Barrie

17
Flywheels carry various marks depending on period and model, but they all seem to have a 1|6 mark which is Number One and Number Six at TDC. Transferring these marks to the crankshaft damper with a white correction marker is a convenient ploy. I have often wondered how accurate these flywheel marks are, but they are certainly accurate enough to give you a starting point. You can use a large protractor to give you, say, a 12° BTDC datum for ignition timing on the crankshaft damper. Personally I just mark 10° and 20° BTDC and then you can see what is happening with the distributor advance and retard as RPM changes.
To be absolutely correct you need a pointer fixed close to the damper periphery so that you can take a reading,
Barrie

18
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: ace bristol shocks
« on: March 12, 2023, 19:25:57 »
Hello Damper Puzzlers,
There is a long thread on this topic somewhere on this Forum which explains the whole saga, however I can't find it. To summarise:

1) Armstrong dampers are long gone. They could be rebuilt for a few years by someone in Yorkshire who bought all their spares, but now that option has also faded in to history.
2) Spax have been a good choice ever since (although Terry is on the wrong Forum as he is apparently looking for dampers to fit a Bristol ?)
3) Spax did have a poor quality problem back in the last century, but have long since turned that around. This has been somewhat offset by a seeming lack of knowledge about their own part numbers. I find one needs to be quite persistent to persuade them to look at their records properly.
4) Both the original Armstrong and substitute Koni and Spax dampers all suffer from over extension. As pointed out this results in too much droop on the suspension resulting in binding on the rear driveshafts as the U.J. angularity limits are exceeded and, less noticed, but just as serious, binding on the front track rods as they foul the lower wishbone chassis pick up points.

This point was addressed a good few years ago and Brian Eacott got them to produce a shorter stroke damper for the rear of the Ace and Aceca which cured the driveshaft problem. Not long after I got them to produce a shorter stroke damper for the front and this cures the track rod binding problem.
So the part numbers you need are:

Rear G623EA
Front G9442AS

For what my opinion is worth I don't think you should fit any of the dampers that have the original longer stroke. I think that the hammering which results from the drive shaft U.J.s binding is implicated in the failure of the taper and key way drive in the hub. As far as the track rods binding on the front is concerned I don't think it would ever lock the steering, but it is hardly a beneficial feature: Both these idiosyncrasies have annoying consequences - when jacking the car up for maintenance you cannot turn the rear wheels and if the steering is stiff you cannot be sure what the cause is.
Barrie

19
Dan,
You are a mine of information. I can endorse your advice regarding use of the compatible clutch release arm with the 5 bolt, or 6 bolt block. Unless you look very carefully they appear to be identical.
Do not ask how I know, suffice to say that I became well practiced at removing and replacing the gearbox and bellhousing.....
Barrie

20
Paul,
So pleased to see the most famous of the 2 Litre saloons starting a new life.
The pictures of the car at Rest and Be Thankful are very evocative, especially the one at the top hairpin and the one at the start with, I believe, Raymond Baxter in the Irvine flying jacket.
I suppose it would be most unlikely that the car did not receive the best available engine. It will be interesting to see what is revealed when you get it apart. In any event best wishes for an enjoyable journey and some good fun at the end of a lot of hard work. By the bye it doesn't look as though your lifestyle is going to make a long term restoration project quite straightforward
Barrie

21
Vintage, PVT & 2 Litre Forum / Re: O'l Girl on a day out.
« on: December 03, 2022, 21:11:07 »
G,
Not only the best looking machine there, but amazingly the lowest
B

22
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Ac Aceca Battery type?
« on: November 10, 2022, 23:33:26 »
Jonas,
I think the wheel arch front inner panels on '22 were located by a mixture of self tapping screws together with 2 BA nuts and bolts. However the panels were missing altogether when AE 22 was recovered so I cannot be sure.
The LHD cars were more 'fussy' in layout in the footbox, battery and steering box area. Having to accommodate the hydraulic master cylinders close to the battery does make it all a bit cramped and that is the case with both the early and later battery mounting
Barrie

23
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Ac Aceca Battery type?
« on: November 02, 2022, 13:44:33 »
Jonas,
Apart from being RHD the battery tray in AE22 is almost identical to your AEX 31. Like all these differences on the early cars one would love to have a changeover car number or date, but it seems A.C. didn't bother to record these running changes in production. Keith Lessiter might have an idea though
Barrie

24
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: Ac Aceca Battery type?
« on: October 30, 2022, 17:11:58 »
Be careful, the early Ace has a different battery tray and fixing. The early battery is aligned fore and aft - I think '31 would have been like the other early cars ?
Barrie

25
Gary,
An interesting and challenging project. I'm sure, with your customary determination, you will succeed; but here's a question. Imagine the scene:
It is a wet and cold night. The rain has been coming down steadily all evening. A dithering O.A.P., just like me, approaches a Zebra Crossing intent on reaching the Fish & Chip shop on the other side of the road. Meanwhile a young, lithe driver in a 2 Litre Saloon, just like you, has been driving across town, adhering strictly to the speed limits. As the 2 Litre approaches the Zebra Crossing the O.A.P steps out, concerned only that the Chipper might be closed. Now the question - would the O.A.P sooner the approaching A.C. had drum or disc brakes fitted ?
Barrie

26
Vintage, PVT & 2 Litre Forum / Re: 75th Annivesary 2 Litre Saloon
« on: October 19, 2022, 17:00:44 »
Sorry Gentlemen 'The Club' has no entity of itself - we The Members are the club. Accordingly I applaud your pointing out of these anniversaries, but if you had done it ahead of the date then perhaps they could have been marked in a satisfactory fashion - at the very least a note or an article in ACtion would have been great. Not too late though, if you think your A.C. is under represented get writing: I look forward to pages of interest appearing in ACtion authored by your good selves on that brilliant A.C. the 2 Litre Saloon and its wonderful Weller engine
Barrie

27
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: AC Ace steering box?
« on: September 29, 2022, 10:29:22 »
Set up properly the Bishop Cam system is very effective and very quick. Going to a rack loses the quick ratio and originality: The former loses a great part of the car's character and the latter will decrease the car's value.
Barrie

28
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: AC Ace steering box?
« on: September 09, 2022, 13:42:58 »
Greg,
Looking at your photographs and reading about your steering woes I am left wondering what exactly the 'TR Revington' steering box top cover is ?
If, as I suspect, it is some kind of modification to introduce spring loading to the peg engagement with the cam then my view would be that your steering will never be right til you return the steering box to original Bishop Cam specification. If Bishop had wanted compliance in their system they would have included it: It would seem to me that their whole purpose was to eliminate compliance. Introducing any kind of compliance will appear at the steering wheel as excessive play.
Incidentally I should observe that when checking and setting play at the steering wheel rim only light force should be applied - the front wheels should not move nor the tyre sidewalls flex.
I find the steering system on the Ace, Aceca and Mk. I Cobra quick and accurate - threading the A.C. through a series of corners on a quite country road is a joy.
Barrie

29
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: AC Ace steering box?
« on: September 03, 2022, 12:49:49 »
Jonas,
Who knows what was in the author's mind when the original 1/16" was specified ? In any event I think Michael has a very persuasive argument that A.C. meant total total toe in. In addition that dimension is not a critical, engineering law of physics: It is really an arbitrary guess - if manufacturing teams thought that their suspensions would drag back to the tune of 1/16" toe out then best start off with 1/16" toe in. I doubt there was much calibrated testing carried out in the early days, but by experiment and experience manufacturers came to recommend a static toe in figure. There is no reason why you and your highly accurate Trackace cannot do the same thing, coupled with your assessment as a driver and an observation of tyre wear patterns. So I would start off at 1/16" total toe in and then see how she drives and how the tyres wear.
The nice thing about having the Trackace is knowing exactly where you are with these adjustments - once you have got a satisfactory setting of toe in you can return to it with great accuracy.
Do let us know what you discover, I will need to set the toe in on '22 shortly
Barrie

30
Ace, Aceca & Greyhound Forum / Re: AC Ace steering box?
« on: August 30, 2022, 20:00:36 »
Michael and Jonas,
My apologies for a long pause in contributing to this essential topic. My poor defence being the hours I am wasting on setting up a new lap top, demonstrating my ignorance of all things digital.
To begin with, when reading Michael Trotter's posts, I realise what a chasm exists between a proper engineer, like Michael and an amateur fitter, like me. Thus I have no doubt that my opinion on the clearance of cam to peg is quite wrong and the cam is machined with more clearance on lock as compared to straight ahead. Which being the case I am now puzzled by the too often observed, incorrectly adjusted Bishop Cam steering box, binding as lock is applied. In my experience there is a tendency, during adjustment, to reduce straight ahead free play too much and this seems always to result in the peg binding in the cam as the rocker arm travels from the straight ahead position. This prevents the self centering action of the caster angle operating and makes your Ace or Aceca an absolute pig to drive....
To address the specific problem described by Jonas, one of the symptoms of excessive toe in is poor straight line stability. If, as Michael suggests, this is the situation with AEX 31 then it will be interesting to hear the results of a revision to the toe in adjustment.
Turning to the general question of toe in I used a tracking pad for many years, such as Michael describes, but eventually concluded that the drag due to tyre rolling resistance probably varied as the square of speed and any slip angle detected at walking pace might be misleading at sixty or seventy miles an hour. The other doubt in my mind was repeatability, or rather the lack of it: Slip angles measured on each run seemed to have quite a large scatter. I now use the 'Trackace' system mentioned by Jonas. The other thing about the effects of drag on front wheel alignment concerns the early versus the later Ace chassis: The early cars, including '31, have hard mounts for the inner wishbone whilst the later car uses rubber bushes which one might suppose give  greater compliance. As far as I am aware the toe in setting remained the same for both when you might expect the early 'solid' wishbone to require less toe in angle ?
Jonas mentions choice of steering box oil and I don't believe that this will have any effect on straight line stability. In the interests of longevity I use a synthetic gear oil - Mobil SHC 75W - 90, but I'm sure his Penrite is satisfactory.
Steering box brace: It was not me that was involved in a batch, but I have made a couple for myself. I remember David Sanderson telling me that the LHD Ace steering box mount is far less rigid than the RHD mount and I think the steering brace requirement could have come from SCCA racing. Whatever the instigation you can't have too much of a good thing so braces all round - RHD and LHD. However I doubt that the brace would affect straight line stability as any flexing would be more likely during brisk cornering.
Finally (sigh of relief) I am wondering about some of the calculations shewn in this thread. Mixing fractions of a degree with decimal points is not a good idea. It does seem to be the modern way, but 2.5° is not 2° 50' it is 2° 30' . On this basis '31 with 40' of toe in (0.66°) then it is over 3/16 of an inch
Barrie

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 26