Author Topic: 'tool time' story: how I recreate my MK 4  (Read 105487 times)

dkp_cobra

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'tool time' story: how I recreate my MK 4
« Reply #165 on: February 26, 2009, 08:40:57 »
Same procedure for the back wiring loom. Boring ...
   

   
« Last Edit: April 18, 2018, 10:21:55 by dkp_cobra »

dkp_cobra

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'tool time' story: how I recreate my MK 4
« Reply #166 on: February 28, 2009, 15:00:47 »
The mounting plate for the fuse box:
   

   
   ... and with the fuse box, relay bracket, generator regulator and ignition box.
   
   





« Last Edit: April 18, 2018, 10:22:33 by dkp_cobra »

ANF289

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'tool time' story: how I recreate my MK 4
« Reply #167 on: March 08, 2009, 00:46:35 »
Peter,
   Can you provide the part numbers for the Heim/Rose joints and their covers for the front suspension.  The thread suggests the joints are Jaguar and the covers come from a race shop.  Any additional info would be greatly appreciated.
   Thanks,
   Art

dkp_cobra

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'tool time' story: how I recreate my MK 4
« Reply #168 on: March 14, 2009, 10:18:11 »
quote:
Originally posted by ANF289
   
Peter,
   Can you provide the part numbers for the Heim/Rose joints and their covers for the front suspension.  The thread suggests the joints are Jaguar and the covers come from a race shop.  Any additional info would be greatly appreciated.
   Thanks,
   Art
   

   
   Art,
   
   I am sorry I do not have the original Jaguar part number but maybe this can helps here:
   
   Limora.com
   
   It part number 3.
   
   The sealing boots for the rose joints can be ordered at any race shop or here at ebay:
   
   Mc Gill Motorsports
   
   Hope this helps a little bit.
   
   Peter

dkp_cobra

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'tool time' story: how I recreate my MK 4
« Reply #169 on: March 14, 2009, 10:31:36 »
Now, the fuse box with some cables:
   

   

   
   That was a quite time intensive work.
   

   
   I hope I looks more tidy up then before:
   

   

   
   Look at these quite nice control lamps:
   

   
   The problem with these lamps is that the body is connected to ground. Well, in general this is not bad but two of these lamps (generator test and indicator light) are connected permanently to plus and have a switched ground connection. Thus I had to isolated the body from tha dashboard. Of course with real leather [:)]
   
« Last Edit: April 18, 2018, 10:24:14 by dkp_cobra »

dkp_cobra

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« Reply #170 on: March 27, 2009, 10:26:17 »
Due to some problems with my ignition module I got the original manual from the previous owner. Thank you for that.
   
   The good news is that it works now. The bad news was that the manual claimed that the module should be placed away from the engine heat (ok in my case) with fresh air floating around. That what definitely not the case in my application.
   
   I decided to make a new mounting plate for the fuses and relays without the ignition module and the generator regulator:
   

   

   
   The ignition module and the generator regulator has now its place below the battery. They are protected against the heat due to the heat protection shield. And enough fresh air comes from below and is dragged through the right louvre.
   

   
   Now, the dashboard is nearly finished:
   
   




   and a look behind:
   
« Last Edit: April 18, 2018, 10:25:58 by dkp_cobra »

dkp_cobra

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« Reply #171 on: March 28, 2009, 15:06:18 »
The last missing part: a mounting bracket for the expansion tank.
   

   
   The expansion tank is a Harrison repro. from a C2 Corvette. The cable strap will be replaced by a clamp:
   

   
   Now, it is time to put water on it ...
« Last Edit: April 18, 2018, 10:26:34 by dkp_cobra »

dkp_cobra

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« Reply #172 on: March 28, 2009, 15:43:36 »
Give me fuel ...
   
   
   
   Look Igor, IT LIVES !!!
   
   

1984MkIV

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'tool time' story: how I recreate my MK 4
« Reply #173 on: April 15, 2009, 23:38:41 »
Not only Peters car came to life. There is a small barn in the northern part of germany; every evening you can watch two maniacs disappear in the barn (one day two other maniacs called Horst and Michael appeared as well in the barn). When the massage came up from Peter, that he had fired up his car, there was a reply from a certain Heinz (not the Ketschup Heinz, but the AK 1005 Heinz), that the mufflers of his car were not manufactured but he had fired up his engine as well. Now the restoration of AK 1005 is under delay because the barn has to be restored ...[;)][:)][:D]
   Interesting car, by the way. Mk III suspension, T 10 gearbox, Girling brakes, Cleveland engine. Probably the oldest Mk IV in Europe (to whom it may concern: The UK is part of Europe[:)]).
   
   Michael

dkp_cobra

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« Reply #174 on: April 18, 2009, 19:07:28 »
The dashboard is finished:
   

   
   The extension tank is fixed now:
   

   
   I think the black rubber lines look better at that place than the stainless steel lines.
   
« Last Edit: April 18, 2018, 10:27:55 by dkp_cobra »

dkp_cobra

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« Reply #175 on: April 26, 2009, 18:21:33 »
Ready for the first ride:
   
   












   Result:
   
   drives really nice but the speedometer doesn't work and the brakes are quite hard to push. Maybe the brake booster isn't really ok.
« Last Edit: April 18, 2018, 10:28:38 by dkp_cobra »

Superarnie Mk2

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'tool time' story: how I recreate my MK 4
« Reply #176 on: April 26, 2009, 22:48:09 »
Peter, your car looks absolutely stunning, you must be very proud, it is a credit to your hard work and effort. Thanks for creating a fantastic build/restoration thread, I'm sure the areas you have covered in the restoration will be of great use to Mark 4/Superblower owners.
   
   Regards
   
   Gary

REV

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« Reply #177 on: April 29, 2009, 21:16:16 »
Peter,
   I have to say I'm incredibly impressed to. We both have very similar cars, mine is AK1023 and looked virtually identical to the picture of yours before you started the renovation. I've been doing some mods to mine recently and they now differ in several small respects, mainly roll bar, exhaust, engine, doors & stripes.
   
   The one bit I'm really very jealous of is getting rid of that horrid padding around the edge of the cabin. I so want to do that. I don't suppose you have a picture of what was under the padding do you? If I were to go any further with the car that would be the next thing on the list. I've just no idea whats under there.
   
   Are you coming over in the summer to the ACOC International? I think your car would draw a crowd if you do! So many people have been reading this with interest over the last year or so.
   
   Once again well done & congratulations on completing a huge job so very well.
   
   Nick

dkp_cobra

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« Reply #178 on: May 01, 2009, 17:14:31 »
Gary, Nick,
   
   thank you for the kind words. The next ACOC meeting is in Brocklands from 10-12 July, right? I am on holiday that time [:(]
   
   Nick, I am sorry I have no pictures of the body which show what is below the leather padding around the cockpit. The previous owner removed it already. As far as I know the padding is applied to aluminium channel which is riveted to the body. It is not a big problem to remove it but you have the rivet holes in you body after that. If you close them with primer before painting the primer will shrink over the years and you can see were the holes were. Since I got a complete new paint job from the bottom my welder closed the holes before the painter primed the complete body. I think this is the only way to be sure that the holes will never come through the paint.
   
   I hope this information helps a little bit.
   
   Regards,
   
   Peter

cobham cobra

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« Reply #179 on: May 05, 2009, 13:25:20 »
Hi Peter,
   Very disappointed to hear you will not be coming over to Brooklands for the ACOC International[:(]. You have done a fantastic job in restoring your car and I greatly appreciate you taking the time to photograph and record your progress. I'm sure I'm not the only one that was looking forward to meeting you and having a good look at your car.
   
   Cheers - John.