AC Owners Club Forum

AC Owners Club Forum => Vintage, PVT & 2 Litre Forum => Topic started by: 3.5 Pints at the Bar on August 28, 2013, 22:54:39

Title: Rear spring removal (2 Litre).
Post by: 3.5 Pints at the Bar on August 28, 2013, 22:54:39: I'm contemplating removing the rear leafsprings from my 2 litre. However, the handbook instructions do not make sense. They say that you should support the chassis and then remove the front pivot bolts from the springs. But because the chassis is underslung, the axle is pressed against the chassis with 5 inches of spring deflection waiting to be released.

   If one releases the axle from the springs first instead, the rear underpan prevents you from allowing the springs to relax.

   Has anybody here performed this spring removal?
Title: Rear spring removal (2 Litre).
Post by: 3.5 Pints at the Bar on September 15, 2013, 23:20:24: Another owner advised that he's removed the springs by firstly releasing the axle. I still have doubts, since the clearance under the spring, to the chassis underpan, is 0.5 inch. The deflection in the spring centre, waiting to be released, I calculate to be 4.125 inches. If you hear a news report of the first AC enthusiast in orbit, you'll know that it's gone wrong!
Title: Rear spring removal (2 Litre).
Post by: Robin A Woolmer on September 16, 2013, 00:18:53: Have you tried the 2-litre site? ' www.ac2litre.com 'this is the best site for the 2-litre saloons with a great deal of information.
Robin
Title: Rear spring removal (2 Litre).
Post by: 3.5 Pints at the Bar on September 16, 2013, 21:23:02: I'm the webmaster at that site. Many thanks for your kind compliments. I will report back on the solution when I've worked out this puzzle. If I was to follow the handbook instructions, and release the front pivot bolt, it would release about 300 pounds-force and 8 inches of travel (double the deflection measured at the axle). Ideally, I need some kind of long travel clamp to release it gently.
Title: Rear spring removal (2 Litre).
Post by: Robin A Woolmer on September 16, 2013, 23:18:11: Ian
   Sorry I did not realise, I think you will need several jacks to support the car then the spring, at least you will be able to slide it out of the trunnion after releasing the shackle pins!

   Robin
Title: Rear spring removal (2 Litre).
Post by: Flyinghorse on September 16, 2013, 23:23:28: Ian,
   I am having trouble getting a mental picture of the problem, but an interesting one to solve. How did they build them in the first place and work backwards!

   Looking at the chassis pictures (tn_chassis2) on the 2 litre site it does seem that you would have to support the chassis,then release the axle from the springs and get the axle weight off the spring so its relaxed.

   You say the axle even if released from the springs keeps the spring in tension.

   Can the axle be rotated 90deg in situ to remove that loading?

   How would you remove an axle? if you wanted to. It seems possible to remove the axle loading off the springs in the photo I looked at.

   Graham
Title: Rear spring removal (2 Litre).
Post by: 3.5 Pints at the Bar on September 17, 2013, 02:03:05: Thanks for the replies. The handbooks describe removal of axle by releasing the U-bolts (the springs still attached to the chassis). I can't make sense of that either, unless the car is left with jacks under the springs?

   (http://www.ac2litre.com/rearleafspring.jpg)

   Hopefully there's a photo above. Note how close the spring is to the underpan. Also, that the axle is already touching the chassis (weight is still on the wheels). Some garages used to have spring clamps and spreaders, but even these would not fit onto the AC.
Title: Rear spring removal (2 Litre).
Post by: 3.5 Pints at the Bar on September 17, 2013, 11:08:33: If the above photo doesn't come up, visit this link:

   http://www.ac2litre.com/rearleafspring.jpg

   The pivot ends of the spring are slightly higher than the axle, so in theory, one could place a beam on top of the spring, and somehow clamp the middle of the spring. Then remove the front pivot bolt.
Title: Rear spring removal (2 Litre).
Post by: 3.5 Pints at the Bar on September 17, 2013, 21:42:13: It occurred to me that one could probably get away with clamping each half of the spring (against a pair of straight bars/girders) separately. That would keep over 90 percent of the spring almost straight, and would not require long-travel clamps. It would also take advantage of the thick straight bottom plates on the springs. I'll see what I can do tomorrow!
Title: Rear spring removal (2 Litre).
Post by: 3.5 Pints at the Bar on September 18, 2013, 19:02:29: I'm pleased to report that I've removed my rear leaf-springs without too much excitement. I clamped short lengths of angle girder to each end of the spring, and also clamped the bottom plate of the spring which effectively straightens out the centre portion of the spring. Then I slackened the U-bolt nuts a little to relieve a bit more load. There was still a little load left in the spring. The end of it sprung up an inch or so after bolt removal.

As suspected, I've confirmed that my springs have too much free camber (6.25" instead of 5.75"). It's a common error due to the wrong figure being published in all the handbooks. It then causes excessive banging of axle against chassis. These springs were almost certainly fitted by the factory circa 1960. My rear ground clearance was also 0.5 inch higher than towards the front.
Title: Rear spring removal (2 Litre).
Post by: Robin A Woolmer on September 18, 2013, 20:28:52: Well Done, maybe you could put a diagram on your web site to help the other owners.

Robin
Title: Rear spring removal (2 Litre).
Post by: 3.5 Pints at the Bar on September 19, 2013, 11:08:15: I'll be sure to write up any overhaul jobs I do. I'll be checking over the back axle too.